Hi, new to the forum today. Looking for someone in the area of Pocatello Idaho to provide some assistance on getting my 27 t going again after sitting for almost 20 years. Any other T owners in the area?
Here's a start.
Western Idaho Model T Ford Club
c/o Don Borchers
3590 Julian St.
Boise, ID 83704
Hi Rayo, welcome to the affliction ! I'm in Blackfoot, that's close. Send me a PM
While you are waiting to get together with someone, you can do a few basic things that must be done. There may be other problems that must be addressed, but the below procedures must be done, regardless:
1. Put in a new 6 volt battery.
2. Drain the gas tank of old gas and flush of rust and residue.
3. While gas is out, remove cast iron fuel valve, dismantle and clean or install new screen.
4. Remove carburetor, take apart, clean, adjust, and reassemble with new gaskets.
5. Add new gas
6. Drain radiator and flush. If necessary, take to a radiator shop to have it cleaned and pressurized to check for leaks.
7. Flush engine water jacket and try and remove large rust chunks, if present.
8. Install radiator and hook up hoses & lubricate fan.
9. Add 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze.
10. Drain old oil and flush crankcase. Drain and add 30 wt. oil.
11. Check tires and add air if necessary.
12. Oil and grease all lubrication points including commutator.
13. If the coils and and plugs are good, it may start.
Thanks for the tips. Sometimes it seems like a daunting task.
It is possible that your emergency brake might not hold, so, after doing all the preparations and before attempting to start it, you might want to block up the rear end wheels off the ground in case you get lucky and it starts. That way, you won’t get run over, pinned against the garage wall or have a runaway T on your hands. Jim Patrick
The list that J Patrick posted of things to do is right on. Installing a new battery and start checking for the coil 'buzz' for each cylinder is the first step I would do.
When you get the ignition system working consisting of the coils and timer your on you way for the rest of the steps.
The nice thing about the '27 is the fuel screen/valve is very accessible. The not-so-nice thing about the '27 is that if you have to remove the gas tank, it can be a real PITA. If you need to remove the radiator (just for startup you won't have to), be sure that you make a sketch of how the radiator mounts go. When you have the mounts apart sitting in a box, the way that they go back together is not obvious.
Rayo, You may want to get a drip pan from the auto parts store, too. The only Model T that does not drip oil is one that does not have any oil to drip. A large baking sheet from a restaurant supply is sturdier and has higher sides.
Another step I'd suggest...Keep us all posted on how it goes! Pictures are always a plus, too.
Also, check all of you wheels for lose, or dry rotted spokes. If there is dry brown powder around the base of the spokes, you have bad spokes. If when you roll the car, the spokes click, or when you grab the spokes and pull and push the wheel from side to side and the spokes move from side to side, independent of the direction of the wheel, you have loose spokes, which need to be replaced before driving in traffic. Jim Patrick