What size line are you guys using on the hogs head oilers, the ones that pick up from the housing and deliver to side of pan? Right now I have 3/8 line installed but I thing that over kill! Even at idle I have to keep the breather cap on because it is really pumping the oil to the front. You know what they say about too much of a good thing.
Mine has a 3/8”also and works great (in my humble opinion).
A lot of oil is force fed by the flywheel into the tube including floating debris and if the tube were not the size it is and, instead, 5/16” or 1/4’’, the debris and lint might clog it up like the smaller inside oil tube has a tendency to do. Though the oil tpis temporarily re-located to a crucial location, the same amount of oil remains in the crankcase, and immediately flows back into the transmission area, so I am unclear as to why you are having a problem with it. Would adding a little more oil to the crankcase to compensate for the re-routed amount, solve the problem? Jim Patrick
It's is not how much oil is in the engine, it is the amount that is moved to the front. Yes, having oil coming to front is good, but my question is; can there be too much?
A little history, this is the engine I put the Chevrolet head on. I reused the rings and de-glazed the cylinders as there was not that many miles on the engine from when I had it bored out and when I lost the center main. I did not go for the high compression adapter plate, but there is some increase. I am now getting a lot of smoke out of the breather and valve covers that was not there before. So that is why I asked the question. I did a check with the temp gun after a 3 mile run, I am seeing about a 20 deg difference between the top and bottom tank and no readings that jump out as real abnormal. The Moto-meter is sitting below summer average with water pump.
I am no engineer, but, in my opinion, I would say not. Where is the tube entering your crankcase? The hogshead oiler on my T is one of the very first prototypes and was installed by the inventor, Jess Bonar in 1977. I assume that in the development stages, Jess found that the ideal position of the entry point into the crankcase was between the #1 & #2 cylinders, so that plenty of oil gets to the front while being positioned close enough to the rear so that the oil has less distance to travel to get back to the transmission. Also, being positioned halfway back, there is no splash coming out of the breather.
If yours is positioned closer to the front, I would suggest that you relocate it between the first and second cylinders and plug up the first hole. Jim Patrick
Ok, I just looked at the link, that might be a maybe I will look into it. I would only then have to plug the fitting at the front and drill/tap one hole.
Great! I hope it helps to solve the problem. Please keep us posted. Jim Patrick
PS. I was thinking that, even cylinders 2, 3 and 4, being forward of the main oil source in the transmission may suffer from a shortage of oil. The hogshead oiler, entering the crankcase between 2 & 3 and delivering a high quantity of oil at high pressure in this central location, will remedy this dangerous occurrence.
Sorry. I meant “entering the crankcase between cylinders 1 & 2”...
I still have not got to it yet, maybe this winter. In the mean time, I am going to install smaller line.
Please clarify so that the readers will know which oiler that you are using Mark. I am aware of at least 4 auxiliary hogs head type oilers and all function differently.
hogs head oilers, the ones that pick up from the housing and deliver to side of pan?
It's the one that mounts to drivers side with 6 bolts and feed into the front side of the pan.
Smoke from the breather and valve cover is usually due to compression leaking past the piston rings, not from too much oil splashing around. If it was getting upward past the oil control ring, it would be burning it, and smoking blue out the tailpipe. Blow by is caused by compression rings not sealing to the cylinder walls, and letting the compression leak by. It may be that since the engine was apart, the rings may not have seated back in the cylinders, but may after more running. I presume the ring gaps were correct, and spaced properly when the piston were put back in. If they don't reseal, it may be that you will have to hone the cylinders to break the glaze, and replace the rings.
William good point re not seated yet. Check my Monday, July 16, 2018 - 10:52 am post above.