My father-in-law has a 1921 Model T coup. It hasn't run in probably 30 years and now wants to give it to my son after we get it running and start to restore.
My questions for today have to do with the carb. It says Holley Pat. Dec 12, 1914. I'd like to pull it off and get it cleaned up, and see if we can get it re-installed.
What is the best way to find the specific model so I can get an exploded view and start to think about rebuilding it.
Your best bet is to start with the carb book for sale here and from most T parts suppliers:
Welcome to the forum. I'm sure you'll find a lot of great information here.
Usually, the tag will say Holley NH or Holley G. Those were the most commonly used.
My guess is that the patent date on your carburetor is actually December 22, not December 12, and that the carb is a Holley Model G. If you post some pictures of it you'll soon know for sure.
I agree with Tim on the book, and I'll add this:
Please get your son involved in all the repair work getting the T running. The information and hands on experience learned from taking the carburetor apart, cleaning, adjusting and replacing parts if necessary are worth more than money. Even if he is 5 years old let him watch. It will take a lot of the mystery out of the project and embolden him to work on the T in the future.
Thanks for the replies. I did in fact fat-finger my original post. The pat date is Dec 22, 1914.
My son is 15 and looking forward to driving it around the neighborhood when he gets his license.
Iíll post a pic when I get home.
That is indeed a Holley G, and they are great carbs. The MTFCA Carburetor book goes into detail about how to rebuild them.
BTW, the Holley G didn't have a tag on it saying "Holley G." But the patent date info on the top plate identifies it. Lang's and some other suppliers have lots of parts for the G.
The carb book is a good purchase either way, but Royce Peterson has also written up a good tutorial on rebuilding your Holley G:
Tim, thanks for that link. Really good pictures and methods. I was a little disappointed they didn't get into removing the venturi, I'd consider that rather necessary to clean up a carb that was especially abused like that one. Also, setting the float level depends less upon a measurement than it does the "puddle" at the main jet which the idle "sucker tube" draws from. Caution, I found the carburetor dip they used seemed to react with the metal used in the venturi. Replacement floats like the one used in that link are a little over 1/2" thick - the original cork float measures 3/8". Stan Howe alluded to that difference in volume affecting how the float level is set. I hope he'll comment. I've always had good results with the Holley "G".
That link is pretty cool, Tim.
Steve, both those links look great, thank you. Sean and I have already read through a couple of times. My father-in-law already has the Ford service manual, I'll look into getting the rest of the set as well.
My son and I are both pretty excited to get started, we plan on documenting the steps we take and post progress along the way.
Excellent piece by Royce on the Holley G. I'll use it when I do one.
Rich: I busted my 30 year old venturi (perhaps it was an original in a REALLY clean iron carb!!) with a hammer, a screwdriver and dropped in a new repro aluminum one then put the big snap ring back in. :-) The old Zamac? "pot metal" was splitting/expanding and needed out.
A fella once said here if a guy opened the venturi up a bit it would run like a scalded cat!
Matt: You bet. Parts are readily available. Thank goodness. :-)
Watch to be certain the idle "sucker tube" stays out of the way of the that main jet needle.
I needed to tweak this one in front of me a little to be clear of the main needle.
3 screw top? Iron or brass? I have the iron 3 screw for my 18 but haven't set the puddle and put it on to test. :-)
I think it'll turn my knocky bottomed engine into a ripper!
ke photos and put them in a some kind of large ring binder for future reference. I did a Depot hack build up from scratch. I took photos and have them in a binder and can go back and see what i did. Once started you are hooked and will have fun. MAKE IT A SAFE CAR TO DRIVE. Make sure you have fire extinguisher on board.
Welcome and enjoy every minute of it. If bored stop rest and relax then go back and solve the problem
B/B Make photos
More blather on the Holley G carb, and why I would heartily recommend removing the venturi for inspection. Disassembling two "junk" carbs, I was fortunate to get one venturi out of the carb body un-damaged. The top flange of the other venturi broke off a section on removing it. On close inspection, it seems the pot metal alloy of the broken one is well on its way to self-destruction, which seems to be the way with parts made of these non-defined pewter-like alloys after a century or so, whether they are carburetor components, interior door handles, or thrust washers in a differential.
The Venturi on the left seems sound enough and came out easily. On the right is the one that broke on removal, you can see a lot of cracks in the body of the part.