Loaded the complete touring onto truck and trailer took a 40 mile trip to the soda blaster. Here are a few pix . Happy with the results. All paint removed and all loose rust.
I am not get into anyone's business, just trying to enlighten. So I am apologizing in advance. Unless you are disassembling "after" the soda blasting to remove "all" residue that soda (sodium) leaves behind, it will cause the worst corrosion issues within 5 years. I have been involved in many restoration projects over the years and when soda blasting was coming out, I was patient to see first how well this new technique was, well, time always tell. The best way I can describe what I have seen is a bare metal vehicle submersed in the ocean, rinsed off with various acids, rinsed again. The soda gets into all those cracks and seams. Again, I am sorry if this is taking wrong but the results can be so disappointing and break your heart in the long run.
A very good method is using in a pressure pot sand blaster. Black Beauty ultra fine media at no more than 90 psi but increasing the product volume. This will not cause heating nor penning to the panels which in turn cause warping. It's nasty to do, but the results are a 100 year plus restoration.
All the Best,
Hank in Tin-A-See
From my understanding, a proper neutralizer like Holdtight 102 will do the job. Every crevice needs to be treated after blasting with soda.
I hear your view and personalty have no experience yet to dispute your opinion. What made up my mind to go this route was an episode of grave yard cars. They soda blasted a complete car, after blasting was done they rinsed with vinegar followed by a pressure wash with water. Pressure in the washer is much higher than the soda blaster. As you say time will tell. I hope I made the right decision. Thanks for your post.
Charles ( Bruce )
Thank You for being receptive. Please try a Dupont metal etching solution afterwards. You can take some sort of spray bottle and soak down those seams, overlap panels, etc. A friend of mine did this as well and rotated it 180 degrees upside down and flush it afterwards with water then vinegar, then rinsed with hot water. No signs of any corrosion and that was 15 years ago. If you need any other assistance, please feel free to contact me. firstname.lastname@example.org
All The Best,
Hank in Tin-A-See
For many yeasts I prepped bare metal with DuPont 5717S to prevent rust from returning. Then I discovered that 50/50 phosphoric acid and water is the same thing for a fraction of the cost.