VIDEO: How to replace the head gasket on a Ford Model T :-)

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: VIDEO: How to replace the head gasket on a Ford Model T :-)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mitch Taylor on Sunday, July 22, 2018 - 07:42 am:

Fellow Enthusiasts...

My Model T underwent surgery on the weekend, and I'm pleased to say, she survived 100% :-)
Now you too can learn how it's done - replacing the head gasket on a Ford Model T ... Here's the video as promised... Enjoy :-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_c7G9_06-w


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Neil Kaminar on Sunday, July 22, 2018 - 12:05 pm:

I do things a little different. First, I remove all the plugs to make sure that I don't damage them. Then I use a bottom tap to clean out the threads in the block and a die to clean the threads on the bolts. I use a wire brush wheel attached to my battery powered drill motor to clean the carbon and debris off the engine and head. It is faster and does a better job. I use a little copper anti-sieze on the bolts so they don't get stuck in the block. I check to see if bolts are bottoming out by putting them in the block and checking to see that the distance between the block and the head of the bolt is less than the thickness of the head. To be safe I don't include the thickness of the gasket.

If you are using an aluminum head, use a good flat washer between the bolts and the head. The ones that come with the aluminum heads and are sold through the parts supply houses are too thin and will cause the aluminum to deform at the top of the bolt holes. Thicker stainless steel washers with a black oxide finish are available from McMaster Carr. Make sure the bolts are long enough for the aluminum head. The ones sold by the parts suppliers may be too short.

Neil


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Neil Kaminar on Sunday, July 22, 2018 - 12:06 pm:

not bottoming out


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick in Florida on Sunday, July 22, 2018 - 01:46 pm:

After thoroughly cleaning the smooth cylinder head of oil and residue, using clear, 2 wide 3m packing tape, I tape over the 4 cylinders and 8 valves, so that when I blow out the bolt holes and water jacket with my compressor, no rust particles or dirt will get into the cylinder holes and fall down between the pistons and cylinder wall. Rags are okay, but there is the chance that something will get past the folds and wrinkles of the rags. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Sunday, July 22, 2018 - 02:30 pm:

Mitch

Real nice video, thanks for sharing! Good details.

One tiny hint, I have used, when fitting the head back under the firewall, those 2 rear bolts need to be already in the head. Saw you fiddling with 'em :-)

What I do is wrap between the two rear bolts a thick rubber band (elastic for you blokes), that keeps the bolts up just enough to clear but they don't drag on the gasket. And easy to pull the band off when the bolts are seated.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank van Ekeren (Australia) on Sunday, July 22, 2018 - 05:39 pm:

Or a few wash line pegs work as well to hold the bolts up some.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mitch Taylor on Sunday, July 22, 2018 - 06:30 pm:

Dan Treace - I did put the two rear bolts in the head first :-) The fiddling was just lining them up with the holes in the block :-) Thanks for the comment :-)


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