Just pulling away from a stop sign and she gave up.
Pat, welcome to the club, the dues are very expensive.
Gee, thanks Dean.
Sorry to see it! Bud in Wheeler,Mi.
Which T? Not that it really matters. Hopefully no block damage? Looks like the rod might be okay?
I'm a two time member. Threw that roller bearing 4th main away and have no more trouble.
Was it the 26 or 27 which caused you to joint that club? If so those engines come with the EE cranks and are suppose to be indestructible? Are they as good as they say?
I had one of those EE cranks for my 26, however, s-hampton-light-fingers the engine builder pulled a fast one. Now, I have none. Lesson learnt!
The block is a 27 but the crank was not a EE.
Been there, Done that. It makes a noise that you really don't want to hear.
I know, I joined the club about 6 years ago.
So how are the SCAT cranks holding up?
Have yet to hear of a Scat failure - was your crank reground recently or is it just old, Pat ?
Howdy Paul. If it’s any consolation, your ‘14 broke crank caused me to pull the perfectly good ‘14 crank in my runabout and install a SCAT. Love it!! No more white knuckles on the steering wheel waiting for that eventuality...
But I’m also in ‘The Club’. Happened on the ‘76 Glidden Tour in Colorado Springs while in my ‘23 touring
This crank came in the car which I bought two years ago. I think the engine was rebuilt some years back.
Pat, if my memory serves me correctly, over the last few years 3 scats have been reported to have failed on this forum.
I see the diamond web crank usual break
Frank, I can only recall one Scat crank that failed but I think there were issues with the install of the bearings or something. I'd sure like to hear about any others as I always thought they were bullet proof!
I believe that a while back theere was a thread on Scat failures.
I joined it on the Natches Trace Parkway, about half way through.
What kind of timing gear did it have? I always have figured that is the issue with a lot of the broken crankshafts. I’m a member of the two piece club too, MTFCI Tour around 2000. I was lugging it in high. Dues for Thad club at that time were about 1750.00. Hang in there and I hope it only happens once in a life time.
It has an aluminum timing gear on the cam and steel on the crank. both were new.
I am a two time member. Heavy sigh.
Oh man! That is awful! My condolences. That is one club I want to avoid. What is the most common cause for a broken crankshaft and what can be done (besides not driving) to prevent it? Is there a dangerous driving practice that can be avoided in order to minimize the chances of having this happen? Jim Patrick
Jim, my observations with the 3 broken crankshafts I have knowledge of is that the driver should avoid making the engine lug at low speeds. Resist the temptation to make the grade in high gear and let it down to low gear and have a few revs. All 3 of the cars had overdrive transmissions or 3:1 rear ends, and it is likely that pushing these taller gears at lower revs was an influence.
Allan from down under.
Thank you Allan. That is very helpful. Jim Patrick
PS. When I was in the Marines, I was a Marine Security Guard (MSG Duty, also known as embassy duty) and was lucky enough to spend 14 months as an American Embassy guard in Canberra, Australia from January, 1976 to March, 1977. Australia and the wonderful people of Australia, will always occupy a special place in my heart.
Oy Pat. Oww.
I find again that I am a lucky fellow with the abuse I've given to the 19 engine in my Crappy 23.
I've lugged that poor thing down to...
Also a recent member of the club. Mine broke behind the 4th throw. I suspect a slightly out of line 4th main, but I haven't taken it apart yet. Motor probably has close to 2000 miles since rebuild. It broke under no particular load pulling away from a light going downhill. Continued to run, but made one heck of a racket. We even (very briefly) restarted it, trying to figure out what was going on. Apparently, the broken part was still turning with the main part so there seems to be no other damage.
Mine broke in the middle of the #3 throw. Because of that, the car still ran but sounded terrible. I replaced it with a later crank, don't know if it was an EE or not, and have put thousands of miles on that engine since.
Mine broke just aft of the center main and forward of #3 journal. I’d be interested in knowing the percentage of broken crankshafts also ruining engine blocks making them irreparable. What about 1910-11 T s on 400 mile club tours with cranks original to the car and engine model? I have no financial interest in SCAT cranks but comparing low 5 figure cost of a good 10-11 block to the low 4 figure cost of a SCAT, I know what I’d preemptively do. And, as stated above in this thread, what I’ve already done in my 2 19 14 engine.
I ran my '10 with an original to the car crank for many long tours and over more years than I care to remember. One day I pulled up on the crank to start the car and the crank broke between #1 and #2 immediately. Shut it down by pulling the choke. No damage to the open valve block fortunately. I put a EE crank in but if the Skat cranks had been available I would have gone that route. It has been several years and many tour miles since that day and I am getting nervous enough about the prospect of another more serious crankshaft break to consider putting a later engine in the car for tours. I would love to get one of those made up open valve blocks to run as a compromise as I suffer from a strong urge to keep things as they were made but am afraid of destroying the open valve engine that came with the car.
George, I would love to know how many broken crankshafts were due to the rear web breaking out of the block. I have seen evidence of such on at least two occasions, one on a 1912 block and another on a 1923. It is not always the crank breaking which takes out the block.
Same result though, the root cause being different.
Allan from down under.