What would you do?
Tap them, thread in a plug with green Loctite, and file to
Match the pipe contour.
I am sure you will get better advice from someone else on the Forum but I had a rear housing like that and I ran a pipe tap through the hole, inserted a threaded plug, ground the plug flush and skimmed it with JB weld. More than 20 years later I can't find the repair.
I assume that was someone's idea of a quick fix for bad inside oil seals or a car that was pumping oil down the torque tube.
I'd weld them and grind the repair flush.
Braze and file smooth.
Hey, what's everybody doing in the house? I just came in for lunch...
Well, it's about 110 degrees in the shop right now.
If you can have them tig welded I would go that route. The heat can be kept to a minimum. Otherwise, too much heat you run the risk of bending the tube. Best bet is a pipe plug, ground smooth.
On a related note, the housing on the right appears to be leaning. Is it just the surface it is standing on or is it bent? Iíve encountered just enough bent housings!! They an be straightened with judicious use of a oxy acetylene torch.
There really is nothing wrong with a cold repair (pipe plug or similar). This would likely be my repair choice too.
If you do decide to weld em up... install a tight fitting plug in the holes first! This way the resulting shrinkage can be kept to a minimum, and less work will be required to straighten the tubes. Itís really quite amazing how little shrinking it takes to change the shape of the axle tubes.
Les, they were sitting on the weight of forklift, it slopes. My question should have been close the holes or leave them open. All are in agreement, no holes. They were drilled at an angle so tig will be the easiest. Thanks for sharing you knowledge.
leave them they are the bottom no one will see them.or junk them and get some good ones they are a dime a dozen ha,ha i think i have some free ones. charley
Why are the holes there to begin with? A place to let oil drain out?
Dan, as the 3 Stooges say....water let-er-out-ahs...,
Those look to be '15 housings so, not so much a dime a dozen.
Which ever method your shops tools can do. Tap and plug may be the easiest way.No heat,no noise and thread tape or some loctite will stop a drip.
If it were mine, I would probably " squirt some mig"in the holes,in other words use a wire welder. I would do that with something stuck up inside the axle housing to prevent the molten metal from going in to far and scaring the axle making a weak spot.Something like old pipe or a piece of brass shim stock or whatever is handy.
Drill and tap then silver braze. It will wick down in the threads to seal it off from leaks. Just an idea...
I have a set like that, I think the axle was used for a trailer with two springs instead of transverse and they drilled the holes so the spring bolts had somewhere to fit. Jim
Plugs. Either rubber, plastic or screw in metal.
I've been welding off and on for 40 years, but threading and screwing in plugs makes the most sense to me, even if they have been drilled at an angle, it's still very doable. Simple to do and very effective. No need to weld, braze, or silver solder, just use a good sealant. There are many that will do the job. JMHO Dave
I agree with you. Last century -- from memory -- so not as good as if I saw it last month. But I believe I remember disconnecting a T rear axle from an old trailer. And yes the hole on each side was to allow room for the center bolt of the spring. There may have been other reasons -- but I'm fairly sure that was the reason for at least one rear axle that I know about.
Of course now I'm trying to remember how they connected the rear axle to the two springs on the side of the trailer. A photograph would have been nice -- but hey it was parts and not a car.
Hap l9l5 cut off
I would hit it with the stick welder for a second then another if required. Grind, file and a needle gun if available for texture. Those housings have been in ditches, pot holes and been jacked up so they need to be checked for straightness anyway.
I don't see any need to use taps, screws or glue when it can be fixed much easier like when original with a complete metal bond. Gasket sealers are fine for oil leaks but beyond that not for repair. I only like to do things once.
What ever year they are, check for straightness. They are often bent.