Technically bought on July 30, but unloaded and set up today, so I suppose this qualifies for August!
Part of me can't wait to get filthy!!
Is that a home made lifting eye in the middle of the drive tube?
I started my 16 coupelet in the garage and let it run for a few minutes. Isabel is still waiting for new shoes, hopefully Mr. Stutzman will send them soon.
No that's the shift rod guide/support. If you have a Ruckstell and are missing that support, the suppliers carry them.
Viton tipped NH float valves with correct (.125) orifice
Got the rocker arm cover installed on Nelly Bell the Raloo Rocket. I was starting to look like a teens race car driver after our 100 mile round trip to the Brooks Steam Up last weekend. There was oil every were inside the cab. I have not decided what to do about the port in the side, but it's a good place to add oil to the spring wells without pulling the cover.
Not much back pressure here!
The Chevrolet heads always look good with the exposed rockers. It really entices people when they see the engine idling! The early Buick’s too!
Willis, very very true but I would rather keep the oil in when driving, besides it's easy to take off for show.
Wife and I got the new motor set in the Tudor tonight.
Not much. Been working on other things. Namely a Diesel motor grader and an antique Twin City tractor.
Maw and I went for a Toodle tonight! I really DO like the input the T's give back while driving. The loose steering bushings down there gives feedback up at the wheel end. Clunk clunk clunk.
It had just rained so we were leaving marks all over the gravel roads. No dust! I type too much.
Toodles are getting longer and we have our next adventure already planned.
We might be a bit twisted but we'll go to see the graves of her parents, some of my relatives and a work friend. :-)
Maybe ten miles out. Then back.
Ooh, another direction and we could visit my dad. Seriously. :-)
Don't matter. It's all uphill from here I've found. Don't notice it in the moderns. Used low gear a bit on one hill. Maw was worried whether we'd make it. Hehehe!
Got some great photos. Maybe I put a post together of our cruises (Toodles).
Could barely see at the end. Good thing this 18 likes to go slow. My lights suck beans too. Poor reflectors and those crazy yellow lenses.
Oh my. A trip to my sister and BIL's to meet up with her 28 Plymouth Sedan? Hmmm.
Damn it, I love these ol' Fords and I find maw does too. Surprise to me again! She did love the Toodles in the Crappy 24 back when.:-)
Good grief, she's purring like a kitten tonight... Again. We Toodle and she purrs. Uff da.
Ehh hem. The really important part is that the 18 ran pretty dang good too! Can a T purr? Reliable ol' bugger. Knocks like a door.
No. I'm not giving loving looks into your eyes honey. I'm listening to the beat out of the tail pipe. Deaf as a stump.
No. Whatever you're thinking. No, it ain't happening. Wish in one hand and poo in the other, which have you more of?
Duey, post photos of your mistress and your wife. Sounds like all three of you had a great toodle. I to had a date last evening. I took her to the woods at the other farm to cut some wood for the fire pit this weekend. About 12 mile round trip.
Derrick Pang (D'Artagnan ) Just sent these pics over to me and I'm posting them. Martin Vowell has computer issues and is trying to rain funds for a new 'outer that will work for his famous drawings.
But Derrick went over and helped him finish his "Two Man Top"
Thanks for helping out Martin Derrick. You are a Wurlitzer !!
I just return from picking up my newly rebuilt engine from Pats Restoration. Looking forward to getting it back in the car and heading out for some late season touring here in Vt. Just a reminder that the Stowe Car show has moved to Waterbury Vt, and the gates open on Friday. Who's going?
Martin Vowell has posted more pics on FaceBook of his top install. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10211654152581966&set=pcb.10211654222583 716&type=3&theater&ifg=1
I managed to lose a headlight lense and run over the retaining rim last night so replacing those is on August's to-do list. I should probably also rebuild my front axle at some point before summer's end.
Got around to repairing my front axle
Got my pistons and rods in the block. A little scraping for fitment and then tried on my "new to me" head.
Put an original correct muffler on my '13 A whole lot quieter than the rotten old incorrect one!
Chris, What Kind of Head is that? looks like a Sherman of some sort.
The Coupe starter warned me the bendix spring was loose again. A short spinning sound after starting that usually isn't there. Two things made the bendix cover removal much more enjoyable for me. First, a Coupe suicide door gives the best access to the cover of any of the Ford bodies. Second, I was not under the gun to get the car ready for an event.
I could take time to enjoy the cute, unique little screws that hold the cover. This same thing happened in October of 2016 on this car. I had used the same bolts and locking washers that were on this bendix when I got it. I know it is recommended to use new locking washers each time but I like to get the most out of the old parts when I can. There were two new bendix screw kits hanging on the wall, probably for 20 years so I decided it was time to use them.
Getting the cover screwed back on is still a challenge but the room in a Coupe made it more doable. The other nice thing is if you have non-starter cars, you always have spare bendix gaskets around.
I also oiled the hand brake cross shaft bearings through the little holes in the frame. This is a forgotten task very often.
Installation tip for Bendix cans - cut a slot in gasket for one mounting screw - I always leave the most inboard cover screw in place held by several threads - install gasket over existing screw already in place - finagle can around Bendix drive (pushing low pedal in gives additional clearance) and start the "easiest to get to" screw - usually top or bottom.
Finished the new motor assembly and got it started. Sounds real good. Need to fabricate throttle linkage now and I'll be on the road.
I continued to tidy up some loose ends on my 16 coupelet, waiting for the new wheels to come in from Stutzman's. The task for this weekend was to sandblast door panel hardware and then paint and install. It sure was hard to make holes in my new leather door panels, but in the end everything worked out
20180806_145741_resize_20180806_164241 (35.9 k)
The top strap clips have worn the home made loops for my 1909. It might pay to check yours if you have them.
I silver soldered a piece on the back to make them thicker. I will check on them occasionally for wear.
After a drive I always check front hubs for heat. My one bearing was questionable the last time I greased them. Yup it was getting pretty warm. Replaced it this afternoon. Took about ten minutes. No more heat in the hub. Didnt have to put it in the shop. Both tools"ford" and the T jack was in the car so I performed the repair where it sat in the barn.
Geez! Me again? Went to supper with the wife in the next town and stopped at a cousins house to look at some remodel work she wants done. Nice warm evening after a rain was perfect for the 35 mile trip in the 26 RPU. Stick the tank before leaving and had just over 7 gal. Stick tank when home and had just under 6 gal. Figure pretty close to 20 mpg.
I just finished to clean the front axle parts for the speedster. Now they are waiting to be paint.
Taking apart a 1913-14 rear axle assembly that I bought at Chickasha earlier this year. This bearing sleeve will definitely need replacing.
If only I can get the last sleeve to budge before I ruin the puller, I’ll be happier.
Finally have all 4 fenders on the T. Atleast for a while.
My new toy. Has a rheostat foot speed control. the wires coming out of the red box are for the counter.
The top on my unrestored 26 Tudor was probably installed in the late 1950's and probably never had any thing done to it except an occasional washing. There are a lot of small cracks in the material.
Since good top dressing is no longer available and since some people have used shoe polish with good results I thought I would give it a try.
After some time in the hot sun it looks good.
When I put my top on the Huckster, I used white canvas as the base and sprayed it with Flex Seal Spray Rubber Sealant Coating. After about 4 year in the sun it is time to redo, again. Right now it is faded to about the shade of the uncoated spot.
Pulled the rear axle out of the runabout and started taking it apart. I have to fix a leak.
While I'm at it I'll ditch the stepped drive shaft tube and install one that's correct for 1915.
Valve job on a model A
Took an evening drive in the 26 Touring with my wife and grandson. It was 102 F in Calgary on Friday. Set a new all time record here since forever.
Also took the opportunity to check the brakes, they look pretty good to me.
Mark G, what is that winder machine used for?
I've been busier than a one legged man in an ass kicking contest trying to get my '13 Canadian touring ready to pass a safety inspection so I can get plates on it and start driving it! Managed to find some missing parts thanks to a very close friend of mine! Correct Prestolite tank for running boards. It's still has 88 PSI of gas in it!
He also had an original spare door I harvested the inner panel off of as mine was missing. Now it looks like it's been on my car since new and matches the others ones
I also found a better driver's side cowl light that needs a lot less work!
Should mention, I believe USA doors and Canadian doors are slightly different. Here's the other doors on my car:
Not sure what it was used for in the past but it should be good for doing mag coils or windings for magnet recharger. Goes pretty slow if needed. With the forward/reverse you should not have to change the wire spool, just attach to your bobbin to wind in correct direction.
Just got back from the Great Plains Brass Touring Register's Circle Nebraska Tour (HCCA) with our 1910 Touring. It performed flawlessly. Actually, I did have to add about 1/2 quart of oil over the course of the week-darned open valve engines.
We did about 450 miles, visiting Seward, Stromsburg, Grand Island, Alda, Kearney, Minden, Hastings, Lincoln, and many small towns in between. Here we are following another 1910 Touring, and parked with a 1914 Roadster and 1914 Stanley Roadster.
Reached a milestone today. I'm one month out from my hospital release date. Went in on July 3 on the wings of an angel. The ER gave me four pints of blood to keep me alive. I was prepped for entry into both ends to locate the blood loss. Apparently, I've been slowly losing blood over the past few years and it reached a point where my heart didn't have anything to pump. It didn't help matters that I also had a heart murmur.
They found an ulceration and tear in my small intestine just after where the stomach enters. I must have done the tear the day before when lifting some heavy items propped against my stomach. They called it an AV something or other. It was bad enough to send me into fibrillation the next morning. That was just the beginning.
After the bleeding was stopped in that operation, they gave me three more pints of blood and sent me for Open Heart Surgery prep that included a sonogram and an artery stint from my crotch to the heart to check AV conditions. That was all good but they weren't going to let me go home with the murmur. The lack of blood pretty much destroyed my aortic valve (the location of the murmur).
On the morning of July 9th, they replaced my aortic valve with a bovine tissue valve. They let me come home on July 11th.
I guess I'll be carrying these scars for a while.
Remember; NO MATTER WHAT, it's always better to post photos than it is to be the star of a RIP notice.
So glad to see you are recovering and in good spirits. Now, when the younguns start complaining, You can open your shirt and say: "Shut your pie hole!"
Continued work on the rear axle.
Most of the parts are OK, but the old shafts will have to go. They're worn enough to make the seals leak.
I found this mystery. Somehow a giant felt on the left side was chewed up enough to make this pile of fuzz. I didn't find any burrs on the shaft, so I don't know what did it. There's no felt damage on the right side.
Maybe the hub key or axle keyway intruded in far enough to chew up the seal.
No, not that felt. This was one of the big ones that go on the shaft inside the tube.
Oops, my bad, thanks for the clarification.
Well now that's a different way to add sawdust to the rear end!
We drove our 1907 Buick to breakfast today. It doesn't get as much road time as the T's but is exhilarating to start and drive. I always wanted a one or two cylinder car. Sometimes this is both.
(Message edited by rich eagle on August 12, 2018)
Had my 2 cylinder out today. took pics of both. Something that hasn't been done since 1957
RICHARD,not only love your BUICK.but would love to wander around your yard, neat looking thing's in back of you.thank you for the photo,super automobile I have a picture of a early Buick that belonged to my grandfather with him setting in it,taken in WEST ACTON MASS,looks knew.GREG.
I hear that Rich often wonders around the yard until his wife grabs him and drags him back into the house!
I guess he could wonder or wander
That is true Denny. I'm either wandering around the yard wondering where all this junk came from or in the garage looking for a tool. Fortunately I haven't missed many meals.
Joy puts a timer on when I leave the house.
Spent another day on that rear axle. I got the remainder of the defunct felts out of the left tube. The ones on the right side are perfectly intact.
How these got chewed up is still a mystery to me.
While I have the rear axle off the car I'm going to install a drive shaft tube that's correct for 1915. This is what I took out of it today. The new ones are bronze.
Steve, I have a guess on what chewed up your left side large felts. They may have moved out some and made contact with the rivet heads that hold the housing end to the housing tube. The right side felts were probably pushed a little more towards the center when installed.
That makes as much sense as anything I can think of. It's quite a mystery.
I only just noticed Toon has the most dropped spindles of any T I've ever seen!
I installed the headliner in my centerdoor. I haven't had the much fun since I shot my dog! I'm too old and big to be contorting myself inside that car. Thankfully the material was excellent and I had the right tools!
My steering wheel on our '19 is on the other side ???????????
I finished the dismantlement of the rear axle and drive shaft, made a list of what needed to be replaced, and ordered parts. I thought the wear on this bushing was interesting.
That's not too bad - there is still grease passages on each side - I've removed ones that were worn flat ! The flange of the u-joint was a slightly smaller O.D. than that of that bushing.
Adapted a bottle brush with a broom handle...
... and cleaned out my new 1915 DS tube...
... and finished cleaning all the rear end parts, ready to assemble when the new parts arrive.
Isn't that "just a fun job" - I'd rather clean a cannon bore out !
I installed a phone charger in the 1915 runabout. It's gratifying when you spend the day on something and it works the way it's supposed to.
Today was paint day. Give the speedster parts a lick of paint.
Next step will be the separation of the old rusty frame and the body. Than lower the newly painted good frame and assemble it all again.
Well, I can't post pictures yet but my basic short block is done (a 1918). I ordered a copy of the transmission rebuild book from the MTFCA website and built the little hydraulic press they described. Worked like a charm to push out the transmission bushings. Waiting for replacements right now.
On the home stretch! Just have to get my crank case sand blasted, checked for twist and I can start assembling an engine.....finally!
Steve, if those axles are very good in all other areas, hang on to them. They are perfect for use in conjunction with safety hubs/floating axles.
Allan from down under.
Today I fitted my new toolbox to the running board on my 27 Tudor. Old originals were all too high for the door to swing over. This one is from the 60's most likely. The door clears it by 1/2".
I had to modify one of the two latches to be able to lock it. It took me ages to find a period padlock, with a key, when I was building my roadster. I found this little beauty in my 'it'll come in handy one day' drawers. I never knew I had it.
It is actually a Victorian era item, having the VR logo on the keyhole cover.
Allan from down under.
Finally started installing the steering column that I rebuilt. Unfortunately I have misplaced my arm-stretcher, and managed to lacerate my forehead on the spark lever in the process. That stopped me for yesterday. I'll put some more time in on it today. I have a question - does anyone have a source for the setscrew that holds the steering gearbox cover in place for a '27? I'm assuming that it was originally a slotted screw. The local supply places have the screw, but only with an Allen head. I started with two columns, and the setscrew was missing from both, so I don't know what it's supposed to look like. Thanks.
I believe it's a 6-32 x 3/8"
This says 6-32 RH slotted. I assume that's correct for 1927. I have an older case (two-key post) for which it's too big. Given the sad state of local hardware stores today you may have to settle for a different head or buy online and pay shipping.
Bolts_nuts_threaded_items.pdf (132.7 k)
Been looking for a complete set for a couple of years now. Not Boyco but a very nice setup...
We finished our 24 Runabout this week. Well, as finished as they get, I suppose. As frustrating as it was at times, I really enjoyed learning body work and painting. Except for the engine, every part was removed from the chassis and cleaned, stripped and painted. Both axles have been rebuilt, as well.
Jim, Very nice. You did a wonderful job. I'm sure you will get many hours of enjoyment as will those who get to see it up close and personal.
Wow! Time well spent!
Broke an axle.
Mine looks worn out compared to yours Jim Spadafore! HAHA!
Today's project was replacing a rubber stem with metal.
I use Schraeder 724 or 725. Those are bigger than what Ford used, but the reproduction brass covers fit them.
The rear wheels are ready to go back on when I get the axle back together and in the car. That will take longer than expected. Trying to put a gear on an axle shaft I broke my press. If I can't find a machine shop open tomorrow it will have to wait until Monday.
Hey Jim Spadafore this is from Art.Why I said my car looks old compared to yours is my top is old and my seat is old. Yours just looks so new.
Got my grandpa's early Canadian '13 ready for a safety inspection, and installed the Prestolite tank as a static display. Restored the original speedometer There's a lot of 1912 parts on this car! Note running board,both of which are I think 1912 too.
Art, The top and interior are brand new. I spent about 30 hours between last Sunday and Wednesday installing the them. I can't say enough about the quantity of the Classtique kits, or their customer service. I opted for the roll-up rear curtain and their instructions and installation video doesn't address that. Mike was more than willing to walk me through that part of the installation over the phone. It's been said several times before, but the folks at Classtique are a class act. Actually, every vendor if dealt with during this restoration has been amazing. Gerry Bergbower, the folks at Lang's and Snyder's and Mark Chaffin all took time to hep me find the right items, new or used and thoroughly answered any questions I had or immediately corrected any of the little snafu's that occasionally happen. You don't always see that level of service these days and we're truly lucky to have these people supporting our hobby.
Put original correct speedo in my '13
For those that need a new top, but want a well-used look, I wonder if this material would do the trick:
I charged some magnets today using my homemade magnet charger. I was real please with how they turned out. When charged, the magnets would hold up a piston with rings and wrist pin, and then I was able to add 2 vice small grips.
Hi Bill, Can you please post a picture of your charger? thank you. Erick
The starter on the 26 RPU was getting slow
I cleaned all connections from battery to starter and it works like it should. I found my miss. Had to replace #3 plug. I found the missing parts for my timer on an extra engine in the shed. I installed NOS new day timer and brush on the rebuilt motor from Joe Bell for 23 TT project.
Erick- I have posted 2 pictures of my charger. I can't take credit for the design, as I copied one that Dan Treace posted on the forum a few years ago. I put mine together as an experiment, and it worked so well, that over the last few years the set-up has charged 8 sets of magnets for me and my friends.
The 1st photo is the experimental unit, and the 2nd is the upgraded version. The wiring is the same in both pics, only the wood is different.
I use my battery charger set on 12v boost- 200 amps, 5 licks, and it zaps the heck out of them!
Erick- this is the link to Dan's post about the magnet charger.
Thank you Bill, Erick
1) Took apart the carb, and blew it out.
2) Tested the generator after the cutout died. Replaced it with a voltage regulator.
3) Rebuilt the starter as it leaked badly. It appears to still leak a lot. Might put cup under it the next drive to determine how much it leaks.
Kep, thank you for a look into your world.
I appreciate it. :-)
Cleaned the generator's commutator, now it charges again.
Cleaned the horn's commutator (it's a motor driven horn) and now it rotates and produces sound.
Tightened the fuel line pack nut at the sediment bowl, it was weeping.
Tightened a loose fender eye bolt.
I bought a running gear to store under my Omnibus body. Both await restoration!
Zip tied my cab pieces together to see how the new extended rear panels fit and look.
Thanks for the replies on the setscrew guys. I'll hit Ace Hardware tomorrow. To get back to the original topic, all that I have left to do is install the Pitman arm, hook up the spark lever to the rod to the timer, and install the steering wheel.
Update - The replacement spark rod is 5/16" too long and hits the Pitman arm. I have already started to remove the steering column (for the seventh time) so that I can cut off the bottom of the spark rod and redrill it for the new location of the spark lever. On the positive side - there will be no frozen bolts or stuck cotter pins
I spent Saturday with the model t club of Ventura county at the Camarillo air show. I drove my 11 touring down, we had a decent turn out of cars. Air show was great as always.
Bought a '17 touring, my first T. The fun begins!
Tim. As we all say on the forum. Welcome to the affliction. Good luck with the T. There is a wealth of knowledge here. As far as what I've been doing in August, driving the T as much as I can.
Way to go Tim! Nice '17!!!
Just finished assembling my 2nd rear end. I was hoping it would be easier since I did this on my other T but it was still very difficult with multiple assemblies and dis-assemblies. Now onto the rear springs then that lovely front end you see in the back of the photo.
Today I started rear end reassembly.
Not wanting to spend eighty bucks for a seldom-used facing reamer, I faced the drive shaft bushing with sandpaper.
I pressure tested my acetylene generator today. I had made a form to cast new silicon gaskets. They seem to work. I had bought new gaskets but haven't tried them as these fit my tanks better.
The paste wax helps the silicon from sticking to some degree.
Today I worked on rear axle reassembly. With any luck I'll have it back together and on the car tomorrow.
I made a date tag to bolt on the housings.
Steve, don't forget to add "bronze thrust washers" to your tag. Dave
Excuse the compressed to death glitchy picture
Just finished replacing the incorrect hardware store fasteners on my hood shelves with the kit from Lang's. I did grind and polish the markings off the bolt heads prior to painting.
When removing the old hardware, I found that some sleaze drilled an extra hole in the frame next to one of the holes for the hood shelf bolt.
Finished reassembling the rear axle and got it mostly installed. I'll do shackles, brakes, and wheels tomorrow.
Steve, the stuff you pulled out of that axle looks very similar to what I pulled out of the 1909 axle. I believe the 09 was restored about 1960, I wonder if it was an “improvement” sold during that era?
Early this week I build a new frame for the speedster lowered 5 inch.
Yesterday reassembling of the front axle with new parts. Today front axle and frame are build together.
Well finally got back to dismounting the old rear tire and mounting the new rear tire on the TT. Now have all 4 new tires in place. Also re-installed the shiftlock on the Ruckstell. She will roll on her own now. Maybe I can get it fired up and moving under its own power now. - Matt
In your post with your carbide generator: what brand is it? I'm thinking I should be looking for a similar one (possibly) with the 3 bolt base for my early '13.
Darren, I believe it is a Corcoran. I had to look at some previous posts as it has no name on it.
Steve, will you be installing your AC brakes on the roadster, or are you saving them for the touring?
Those will go on the touring (when I get a round tuit).
LOL, I have some of those round tuits from Hershey, they sure come in handy when the procrastination bug bites!
Removed lower cover dip pan for inspection and taking up con rod bearings if needed. Ended up removing .002 in shims from all caps. Crank pins and babbit appear to be in good shape. Cleaned off old gasket and sealer, installed new gasket, gooped up with Permatex High Tack (cover) and Permatex No.2 (engine side). So far, no leaks.
Did notice that all connecting rod bearings have a 1/16 inch shim on both sides of the bearing. These were left alone as there were .0015 and .005 shims for fine adjustment. Found out I have an EE crank as well.
Bob Doris, EE Crank. SCORE !!!!
After realizing that the radiator repair shop hadn't really "repaired" my leaky radiator last week, rather than throw good money after bad, I decided over the weekend to buy a new one. The new radiator should arrive by Wednesday.
Finally got the steering column back together and installed in my '27 touring car. The rebuild appears to have solved the sloppy steering issue. I would like to make one comment and it shouldn't be taken as criticism of anyone or any company. My throttle lever was worn more then halfway through at the quadrant. My spare rod had been bent and straightened and wasn't much better. I bought a new set of stainless rods from Snyder's. After installing them and installing the column, I found that the spark lever was about 5/16" too long for my application; it hit the Pitman arm. I had to remove the column, redrill the pin hole for the spark lever about 1/4" higher on the shaft, and cut the bottom of the shaft 5/16" it now works fine. If you are going to use this spark rod, check it against the old one very carefully. It's an easy fix, but would be virtually impossible to do in the car.
Needing to aim my headlights, I spent a big chunk of yesterday setting up the aiming arrangement in my shop.
I was at it until after midnight. When I drove outside I found I still need to adjust focus better to spread the beams so they show more of what's n front of me.
I'm not that exacting. I just parked the T on the driveway at night and moved the lights around until the beam satisfied me. I try not to drive it at night here in sunny SW Florida amid the algae and dead fish; the roads are straight and fast, I have no wish to be blasted from the rear by someone going 25 mph faster then I am.
Steve, that looks like one of those KR Wilson precision headlight adjustment tools.
I added the top and aprons to the T. It is amazing how those two items transformed that skeleton body into something that resembles a car!! Both tasks were a two-person effort. The scariest part was lifting the body off the frame high enough to slip the fender aprons into place! I also compounded and polished the aprons and the touch-up areas on the body. Now I will continue installing the interior.
David, what carb are you running?
It is a Chandler Groves (Holley) Model 88.
Lester, I don't know what make of pipe wrench it is, but I put a few layers of Gorilla tape on the jaws for padding.
Dave had to machine the top of the intake manifold so the carb would clear the hood.
Looking good. :-)
Kep, you'll get that sorted. Your pics turned out fine here. :-)
Me? Been too busy with other mechanical loves/needs. Took maw for another Toodle the other night. We were needing it.
We had a fine time! Life in the slow lane fires us up a bunch. That's a good thing. :-)