I see a lot of old threads where guys say the screen is crimped in instead of soldered. Does anyone have a picture of how this is done? The new screen I got from Langs is cut perfectly so it is pushed down into the outlet nut snugly. Im wondering if it fits so nicely does it even need to be soldered, or I can crimp it if showed how. Thanks
This one has a brass ring pressed in to hold it.
If the brass ring is still in yours, it makes a perfect surface to which a new screen can be soldered. Otherwise, new cast iron needs to be tinned first. Not all that difficult on new iron.
Allan from down under.
Are you sure that is brass ring? Have seen the factory solder look like that, a nice rounded ridge of solder.
To repair, melt out most of the factory solder ring, if you can leave some to tin the brass nut makes the new solder stick OK. Most times the factory solder is gone after a good wire brush wheel on the nut and threads to clean it up.
The solder is needed as the T will shake and wiggle, the gas sediment bulb too, and a loose wire screen will find it's way to get in a bad place
My bad. I was thinking ring because it looks too neat for solder and you can see the edge of the mesh sticking out on the sides.
Hmmm.... I'm an old radio Ham and am used to rosin core solder and a soldering gun which I doubt this is.
What kind of solder do you use and do you apply it with an iron or a small torch?
I have found that if you buy enough old sediment bulbs, sooner or later you will find one with a good screen. They can be soaked in carburetor cleaner and dried out. I have used compressed air to blow out the residue with careful digging, being careful not to mess up the screen. I also have been very fortunate in finding NOS originals.
Steve may be onto something here. The retainer could be a pressed in part. It's worth looking into! If that's the case, then it would end the screen problems if someone were able to make that part.
If you are doing to solder do it with the correct tools....
Rather easy with solid core 40/60 solder. My work won't win prize, but good enough to retain the screen and keep particles from coming around the rim!
Craftsman 45 watt pencil gun, would be a bit more fun with a hotter gun.
A torch will run the solder so fast it can fill up the threads on that nut, then you have more work ahead
After a closer look at the outlet cap I noticed there was that ring Steve talked about and a very small groove under it that the screen fit into. I made sure the screen was completely under the ring and put the cap in a vice and crimped the edge of the ring down against the screen with a small punch in a couple of spots. That's better than soldering it