Just picked up my new hood and skirts, some assembly required.
Sweet !! Please show us your progress Andy !! Love to see the craft involved.
Just some good booze for the metal pixies, slap hard with the hammers and shot bag, and then take a rest. Repeat as required until the pixies see it your way.
All the Best,
Hank in Tin-A-See
Might as well make some extras, to share with your new friends What radiator shell are you using?
Oh, and by the way...., Friends need to supply booze to watch. LOL!
I don't know just what my radiator shell is off of but it is close to the mercury shell. It is brass and has been painted. I'm going to strip it and hope that it is good enough to plate. You can see it in my profile.
Andy, I have lots of pictures of an original hood, should you decide to go that route. Tmorsher@icloud.com, I donít get PMs here. T
I started today by cutting the sheet on steel down to size. I used a straight edge and a steel cutting blade in a skill saw, makes great straight lines.
After I had my steel cut to size I laid out and cut the skirts to fit. Now to go see the guy with the 8 foot brake.
I'll be in touch Tim, I do have to modify the drivers side since I am going to run my exhaust out the side of the car.
Well, I made a new friend with an 8 foot brake and got my skirts bent into channel. Now I need to form it to the curve of the body, 2 person job with the kick shrinker. I'll need a volunteer from the audience.
Today I formed one of the skirts to the contour of the body. This required shrinking the edges of the channel I made to conform to the curve of the body. It was a pain but as you can see in the picture, "Jack" helped hold up one end. It looks uneven because the skirt has a nice clean bend and the body has a little history along the edge.
Great fun to see your progress Andy ! Thanks for letting us watch !
Thanks Rich, I was beginning to think no one was paying attention. Yesterday and today I fitted the left skirt. Now it goes for primer then I can get back on the exhaust and hood. It fits better than it looks in the picture. I didn't bend the end tabs yet because it was easier to clamp in place for the test fitting.
I am looking!
Andy, more of us are looking than you realize. Thanks.
Ed aka #4
I'm not afraid of good, hard work. Watching somebody work is very restful.
I follow your post on the body construction and just don't take the time to comment. I do enjoy reading about the progress and I hope you keep posting. Please keep the pictures and information coming.
I also am enjoying your progress, Andy. I can only look and dream "maybe someday".
Thanks for the encouragement. I dropped the body off to get a coat of primer, then it's back on the chassis for exhaust and hood.
When the word speedster is in a post title there will be a ship load of guys checking out the post.
I am one of them.
Nobody.....NOBODY has ever posted anything about a speedster that I have not read. Including you Andy.
Got side tracked but am back on the Mercury. To save extra holes in the skirts I am moving the brake lever inboard. I finished the bracket and shaft, just need my brakes to finish the job.
Great idea on the brake setup. What did you use for the connecting rod. Nice work.
The bracket is made from some chrome moly that is the right ID, the stand off is from the small end of a 289 rod. Tigged together with 309 rod because of the metal mix. Shaft is 11/16 stainless. Made the bushing from an old triple gear bushing. Never throw away an old bushing.
What is the type and gauge of sheet steel you are using, anything special about it? I am considering redoing the cowl on my Speedster this winter. Thank you for posting your progress. Gary
Long time no see Gary. The steel is standard 20 gauge (.0375) for the hood and skirts. The mercury body is 18 gauge. I don't know if the hoods were originally 18 gauge, I'm just copying what was there.
Well, I've got the skirts cut out for the spring and radius arms and cleco'd in place. Next I made a template for the top of the hood. the same template will work for both sides. I made it out of 26 gauge steel because poster board just doesn't act like metal. Here it is in place for a test fit with notes on it for changing a couple dimensions.
Hi Andy. Yes it has been a few years. I always seem to have something else going on the day of the Endurance Run. Thanks for the info. The reason I asked was a few years ago someone told be about what they called "auto body metal". Never heard of the stuff and people I have asked recently do not know about it either. So plain ole 20 gauge it is. If I remember right I used 18 gauge on my cowl as I had simple curves to do. You are right that poster board not always the the best for patterns. I had to tape two pieces together for my cowl pattern, got me close enough for what I needed. I like the idea of using lighter gauge steel instead. Thank you for the progress posts. Gary
Gary, the material you referred to as "auto body metal" might be AKDQ, or Aluminum Killed Steel. I'm no expert, but on a visit to a well known body maker out here in So. Cal, I was told that they used Aluminum Killed Steel because it formed and welded very well and was exceptionally flat as received.
Dick thank you for that tidbit. I will check this stuff out. My cowl is pretty basic (unless Andy's work inspires me to be more creative this time on the redo)no welding required so it will likely come down to cost. Without Andy's post I would have gone on for more years wondering what "auto body metal" is. Thank you both again.
The aluminum killed steel is also known as drawing quality and is typically used in restoration where a good deal of shape is needed. For speedster use we generally are working with simple bends and not compound curves so the higher quality steel isn't needed. If I had to replace the top section of the Mercury tail I would certainly consider using the AK steel. If all goes well I'll have some hood forming photos later.
This is fun to watch...thanks for posting the updates.
So I experimented with rolling the top of my hood in the slip roll. My slip rolls are fairly small diameter and I was unable to get a smooth transition from the curve to the flat. It was recommended that I form the curves over and oxygen bottle. I tried this and though I could make the rear curve the front was too tight for the diameter of my bottle. I then proceeded to kink the hood trying to tighten the curve free hand. So I used a piece of 4" pvc pipe as my bending form. Using the smaller diameter I was able to make the tighter curve with a good blend to the flat area. The photo looks kinked but it's not. Unfortunately I used up what was left of my sheet, so off to the steel store in the AM.
Looking good Andy ! I finally caved in and hired a mobile sheet metal guy w/rolls to assist in helping with my Racer hood 25 + years ago - went from a Whippet radiator to my cowl - same problem - the Whippet is flat at the top but my cowl has a nice radius (I used my Ford Model A oval sign for my cowl pattern!)
Looks good, Steve. I'm trying to get the metal done myself, there are any real complicated bends. I haven't had to do a lot that shows before. The painter should be ready for it in about 3 weeks.
VERY NICE JOB ANDY!
All the Best,
Hank in Tin-A-See
Ok, I've added to my scrap pile but I have 2 hood tops bent and trimmed. They need a little filing to square the edges but I'm fairly happy to get this done.
Looks great! Keep posting progress, tips, tricks, and techniques please! I am saving these photos in my file for my own speedster.
Looking good, Andy ! Yeah, you would have got a chuckle out of my scrap pile just with trunk lids !
I guess I should call it a practice pile. I've made a lot of material bite sized to fit the dumpster better. The hood sides are rectangular so I hope to only need 3 or 4 attempts.
It's been a while. I have the hood top panels pretty much done, I have to decide how to attach to the hinge. Here is one side panel, the other is just a flat sheet right now. I had to make clearance for the side exhaust. This panel will be fixed in place and the passenger side will hinge open normally. After I finish fitting these it is off for louvers. This slot is bigger than needed but I will have a piece of trim to tighten the fit when the headers are done. Note there is only one header tube. A bend into a taper is harder to fit than I expected. More Tubing and another megaphone on its way.
Are we gonna see it next June on the scvmtfc endurance run?
That's my goal. The body is off to the painter in November and the I'll have the chassis to refurbish. I understand it'll be 2 days like the 25th run.
Very Nice!! I love the Mercury body. Thanks for the update.
Well done Andy.Shoot I might have to at least show up at the Endurance Run for a look see. Thank you for the posts. Gary
Not gonna drive your speedster in the run Gary?
No,the last few years my June weekends get sold out to other things, not leaving room for fun stuff. Since it will be the 50th, I'll have to try and steal one day and to have that look see. Gary
I checked my to do list while waiting for some hood hardware. Spent 6 hours fitting the header together. Won't say how much was added to my "practice pile". Have everything fitted, now I need some quiet time to weld it up.
Who rolled your megaphone, Andy ? I had "Meg's" from down your way do mine near 25 years ago - I went from 1 & 3/4" to 4" - Zoom-Zoom !
Hi Steve, I just ordered (them) form Speedway Motors. I got the 1 5/8 to 3 1/2 and cut a couple inches off the end to fit the 1 3/4 primary tube. It's kind of a pain to fit bend in the primary to a taper, thus the additions to the practice pile.
Steve- Cone Engineering has a good selection of cones as well. here us the link:
Thanks Dan - hell of a selection !
They have a lot of options. It's too bad that the 16ga taper only goes down to 2inches. Mine is 18ga and think the welding will be touchy.
Well everything is made and off to paint.