I have started the tear down of the engine of the '14.
Here are the pictures of the drums.
I am planing on using this engine to practice of taking it apart and putting it back.
If I do it a couple of times then I might be able to put it back the final time.
The final replacements of bushings and drums ect.. will be made at final assembly.
Let me know what you think of these drums.
Your hi-lo drum is scrap, 2 big cracks in it.
Nothing can be determined definitively until they are cleaned and blasted.
And after blasting, it'll still be cracked, but clean.
Good catch, Frank
I am blind, I don't see the cracks.
Please give me the pic and about where to look.
That's why you have to clean and blast them...
Frank was able to see the cracks. I just don't see what he is seeing.
Cleaning and blasting is NOT definitive. Magnaflux or even dye penetrant inspection is.
Can't get a good cut/paste but can show the general spot of cracks, steve's original photo shows them clearly.
Get every thing cleaned up and then inspect them in detail. Get them magnetic particle inspected if you are unsure.
There's lots of caked grease on them that needs to be cleaned off before you can be sure of anything.
After they are cleaned you might get Royce to give them a serious looksee.
WOW great eyes you have said the big bad wolf.
I will get them cleaned up and then have Royce or Nolan to take a look at them.
Not so bad to me. Brake drum might benefit from having those metal shoe things fitted to where the clutch rides.
As for the cracks, depends if you can replace the drum or not. Pretty sure I'm driving on a cracked drum but I can't exactly replace it so...
Here is the first drum cleaned.
The other two are being more professionally cleaned by the local auto technical school.
The question is how to stop the rust once cleaned?
I guess they could be painted with glyptal?
But what about the areas that don't get paint?
Internal parts should not be painted- bad idea no matter how many people do it. Spray it down with WD-40 or similar or wipe it down with assembly lube.
My post may elicit some ridiculous responses.
Seeing the cracks in the hi-lo drum makes me wonder how long the cracks were there and many years it ran that way.
Many a T has had drums run for years that way.
Lucky I guess!
I respectfully disagree that blasting will not show a crack. If the item is oily, the oil is down in the crack. Blast the outside, let it sit overnight and the oil will creep out of any crack and be very visible. If itís a part thatís brown and rusty this method wonít work.
I have often used Johnson's Wood Floor Wax to keep the drums and other internal parts from rusting again with good results.
I like that high temp silver exhaust system spray can paint too, as it dries fast and only a thin coat lasts a long time.
I tape over the brass part areas.
I still have some rust free new old stock transmission parts that look like they were coated with black shoe polish, but it may have been Gilsonite.
Transmission drums and other internal parts rusting ? Guys, they are perennially immersed in oil ! What am I missing ?!?
Use Wd40 or a little kerosene. Kerosene leaves a film the doesnít rust and is compatible with oil.
This engine has not had a drop of oil in it for about 50 years. There was a rat nest under cylinder 1.
I soaked the pistons with BP Blast until it would it seeped down the sides. After removing the number 4 piston, it turned over. I just rotated it enough to get the next piston out.
The bores look good. I should have the block ready to go to the technical school for cleaning.
I was going to let the instructor and the students check the bores.
A more specialized machine shop will do the final machine work.
I will be asking more questions from the forum and club members.
Maybe another tread to show all the tear down/clean up.
This is going to be used to put together and tear down a couple of times until I understand all the parts.
Then it get the treatment that it deserves to run in the '14 again.
This '14 was on a 3 year trip and was driven in all 48 contiguous states with a short visit to Canada. It was put in a garage on '49 and there it slept.
With luck and a lot of sweet talking to the wife. It needs a trip to Alaska.
This is on my bucket list.
Don't hot tank the block in a caustic solution- it will destroy the babbit in the block. Just fyi.
Hot tanking a block with babbit will also "kill" the tank chemicals, and evenly distribute a coating of babbbit over all the parts in the tank, and subsequent tanks full. The tank operator should know this and refuse to tank the block until the babbit has been removed. I once left two or three of the retaining holes full of babbit after chiselling out the bearings. It was enough to leave a very thin coating on that block, but not enough to get me in real trouble with the tank operator.
Allan from down under.