Chugging in high gear

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: Chugging in high gear
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harley Morgan MD on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 07:34 pm:

Novice but learning my 1922 T
In family since 1950s Engine runs smooth
Reverse and low gear ok
In high gear hesitates and tends to chug and meshing gear sounds
New Anderson timer and carb
Has never had engine or trans rebuild
All original
Bands look ok
Thoughts appreciated


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 07:48 pm:

Could be that it's from going from low to high smoothly. There is a knack to doing that if your a novice T driver. It has to be a smooth transition for a good shift into high. Try retarding the engine speed as you let the pedal go into high.
After a while you'll get the technique. Others have their own technique but it's generally the same.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 07:59 pm:

I agree with John, let it wind out a little more in low gear before shifting, then be sure to retard the throttle as you let up on the clutch pedal to match the engine speed to where it will be when the high gear clutch engages.

Once you are securely in high, then you can advance the throttle as required to continue your car acceleration in high. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harley Morgan MD on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 08:00 pm:

Thanks much
I have tried throttling way back as I let clutch up
That does help some but then once in high it still seems to chug at higher engine speeds
It just doesnt want to smooth out it almost sounds as if something is slipping and then catching
I have video but not sure how to post it
I spent several days with the drivers at The Henry Ford museum Greenfield village in Dearborn getting pointers from their drivers which was very helpful


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn-Monroeville OH on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 08:12 pm:

Sounds like maybe the 3 clutch fingers need adjusting. Check the service manual for instructions on Pg. 246. It's not hard to do. Takes about an hour. Be sure to put some rags in the trans. area to prevent dropped tool(s) from falling into the gearcase, and use dental floss on the cotter pins so they don't drop into the case either!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A Bartsch on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 08:13 pm:

Check rear axle endplay, possibly thrust washer in differential has failed. Don't take anything apart, just jack up both rear wheels. Good luck, jb


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harley Morgan MD on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 08:22 pm:

I just put new lined brakes on rear and did notice play in rear axle when turning wheels with rear end jacked up
Not a lot maybe 10 degrees moving either wheel forward or back
Will also check clutch fingers after reviewing manual
Really appreciate advice
No one around St Simons Island GA with expertise in model T I am aware of


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Hanlon on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 08:28 pm:

Are you sure it's not an engine miss ? Have you tried adjusting the fuel mixture ?
Any running issues are amplified in high gear (direct), other than the clutches, there's no gear reduction in high.

It does ok at high rpm in low ?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 08:42 pm:

Dr. Morgan:

Take Mark Strange's advise, retard the spark while letting up on the low pedal into direct drive..... you'll enjoy the difference.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 08:45 pm:

OOps, sorry Mark.... I retard the spark, keeping the throttle advanced going into direct drive.

See ya at the Form gathering at Hershey on Wednesday


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Corey Walker, Brownsboro TX on Thursday, September 13, 2018 - 10:26 pm:

I've got a 21 that started to bog down when shifting to high. It would run in high downhill and sometimes on level ground but never a slight hill. I finally removed the sediment bulb and there was trash partially blocking the fuel before it ever entered the sediment bulb. I had cleaned the tank but I guess the fresh ethanol loosened more stuff up.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Neil Kaminar on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 06:59 am:

Harley,

Dave has probably hit on it. A miss can seem like something is slipping and then catching. Take it back to the Ford dealer for a tune up.

Neil


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 10:45 am:

A couple of days ago I had the same symptom, chugging and seeming to miss in high gear. I was imagining all kinds of dire things it might be, but I found it was simply the carb adjustment. Normal vibration had turned the needle about a quarter turn too rich. I set it back to where it runs best and tightened the nut enough to keep it there. So that's my first suggestion for something to check. While cruising in high on level ground, turn the adjustment toward rich (counter clockwise) until the engine starts to stumble. Then turn it the other way toward lean until it starts to stumble again. Then find where it runs best between those two points. The nut on top of the carburetor should be tight enough to keep the needle from turning on its own, but not so tight as to keep you from turning it.

You said the engine/transmission has never had a rebuild. That's probably also true of the rear axle. That means it most likely has original thrust washers or their remains. The 10 difference in rotation between the rear wheels doesn't concern me as much as the other thing to check. With the rear wheels off the floor, try pulling and pushing them in and out. If there's the slightest in-out play you have to deal with this whether it's the source of your car's hesitation or not. Here's a page explaining why:
http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html

Your symptoms may be due to some other malady, but these are two of the common ones to check.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Chuplis on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 11:21 am:

Unless it had the same symptoms before the new timer and carb I would look to one or both of them to be the problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harley Morgan MD on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 12:36 pm:

Hey Thanks to all of you for excellent advice !
Will proceed and provide feed back
Will let you know when I have video on You tube so you can see and hear what I am experiencing
Doc Harley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Gumbinger, Kenosha, WI on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 12:40 pm:

Harley, The Tech Editor for the Model T Ford Club International magazine, The Model T Times, is Dan Treace who lives near Jacksonville, Florida. He's not too far from you and might be able to help you.

There is also a chapter of the Model T Ford Club International in Jacksonville, FL. The contact for that is: Noel Dana, 8319 Alderman Road, Jacksonville, 32211.

Hope this helps.

Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harley Morgan MD on Wednesday, September 19, 2018 - 10:32 am:

Thanks Keith I will contact Dan and Noel
Harley


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