I just purchased 10 new 4.50 x 30 Goodyear tires, tubes and flaps for my two 1926 Tís. My coupe has a very bad vibration when it gets up to speed, so I am considering the balancing beads for my new tires. Has anyone ever used the balancing beads in their tubes? If so, what is your experience? Do they work in calming down the vibration? Any tips? Thank you. Jim Patrick
I've been using Dyna-Beads for eight or nine years in my clinchers and they work very well, indeed.
Thank you Bob. Jim Patrick
The great thing about them is that as your tire wears they will always be in balance when you drive. I've used them for lots of miles and believe in them.
They work. It takes some time to get them in the tubes.
Dennis K Anderson
There is a critical rpm for any rotating part that has an imbalance. The critical rpm is where the radial deflection is the greatest. Below this critical rpm the out of balance weight and the radial deflection are in sync. Above this critical rpm the out of balance weight and the radial deflection are 180 degrees out of sync. So above the critical rpm the balance beads will move to a point 180 degrees from the out of balance weight and balance the wheel. This assumes that the inside of the tube is true to the axis of the wheel. Below the critical rpm the balance beads with move to where the out of balance weight is and make things worse. I don't know at what road speed the critical rpm is for a Model T wheel but it is probably fairly low.
I like to use the stick on weights that are used for aluminum wheels. This is a static balance but OK for the narrow Model T wheels. In the front I back of the bearings so that the wheel spins free and allow it to rotate to the heavy spot. I add weights to the top of the wheel on the felloe until the wheel will stop at random places. On the rear I take out the key and back off the nut so that the wheel will rotate freely. It helps to add a little grease. I clean out the grease after I complete the balancing. Because of the increased friction, the rear wheel never gets balanced as well as the front wheel.
After balancing, the front wheel bearing preload needs to be correct and the nuts on the rear wheels need to be torqued correctly.
Here is a link to an earlier discussion about the beads.
I use them in all by cars they are great.There are you tube videos that show how they work.What I like is they balance the complete rotating assembly,on the rear that would include the axle shaft.
I put in a different brand onto my T years ago, as I had a vibration. Vibration is gone.
They worked great in the T, I was not to impressed, with my truck, maybe it just needed more.
CounterAct Balancing Beads are the brand I have used for years! Yes it takes some time to get them in the tubes, but it is well worth the time invested!
Thanks all. Not one dissenting opinion (except for one who prefers the weights). That is pretty good. Neil. It seems that, to me, one would not need the beads to seek out an imbalance at a lower speed, since vibration is not apparent at lower speeds. Only when the wheel gets up to speed when the vibration starts to happen do they seek out the imbalanced side and balance the wheel. Iím looking forward to trying them.
Are they all the same or is there a brand that is superior to the other brands? Snyderís has the beads I have been looking at. Thank you all. Jim Patrick
I've only used the Dyna Beads since they might have been the first ones popular. Ralph Ricks was the guy who told me about them when he did the Great Race.
The Dynabeads are made of ceramic so they don't wear and turn to dust they advertise. I'd get the cheapest. I've had a flat and salvaged some of the beads to check and them seemed to look good. The hard thing is to know how much to put in. I have used my electric tooth brush to vibrate the stem and keep the flow going. I guess it's better to add too much than too little. Don't spill them on the floor!
I believe I used 4 oz in my 30 x 3's and maybe 5 or 6 in the 3 1/2's.
Getting a small amount of water in an inner tube is a very common problem, due to filling station air hose facilities, where the filling station owner or manager is not careful about keeping water out of his air compressor facilities. I would think that once you get water in your inner tube, it is probably there to stay from then on. My question is, if you do happen to have any amount of water in an inner tube, will the water interfere with the effectiveness of the beads, or will they still provide the balancing feature that they are designed to do,.....???
That's right Harold, If there is something sticky like the flat fix stuff that the beads would stick to and there isn't enough free beads to counter act that spot, your tire would be out of balance.
That's why I try not to add air from the gas stations and always clear the line before connecting to my tires. Seldom have I needed to get air from a station luckily. Good point..
Allow me to throw a curve into this discussion. Has anyone used Nitrogen air mixture in their tires ??? I've used it in my modern trucks (1 ton dually's) and all my larger gooseneck trailers. When you pay roughly $250.00 a piece for 10 ply trailer tires, you look for ways to save/extend life. Nitrogen makes a huge difference in tire wear. Major stock car owners have used this concept for years !!! Last time I had this done on my trailers/truck, it cost $7.00 per tire w/lifetime checks and fills. Now would it be cost effective for a slow speed Model "T", probably not, but definitely for a modern truck/trailer.
As for the "balancing beads", I'm SOLD, haven't done it yet but guaranteed I will. These antique car/truck tires are not cheap, I own 13 of them !!! Each time I purchase a set, it's over $1000.00. Common sense says "you better take care of them and keep them outta the sun as much as possible"
I use the beads, don't know if they effect tire wear but they do a great job of balancing. The 26/27 wire wheels on my speedster have had loose rust and crud in the rolled bead and makes them difficult to balance with weights. (Yes, I know I could stabilize the rust in the bead but hadn't thought of that before beads came available.)
My only suspected down side has been two flat tires that occurred shortly after checking my tire pressure. I think some dust or a bead partially blocked the stem valve from sealing. In one case, the tire went flat overnight in the garage, in the other case I was about 30 miles up the road when my front tire went soft. In both cases, I inflated the tires again with the stem rotated up and everything was fine.
I have the balancing beads in both my Model "A's and my 1914 "T". I don't know what speed the "imbalance" is supposed to show up, but I assume they are doing what they claim to do.
Just be careful when inflating the tire. I've had those little beads get stuck in the tire valve and prevent the valve from seating fully, thus deflating the tire. I couple "flicks" of valve stem usually sets it right again, but I'm super careful now to fill my tires with the valve stem at the 4:00 or 8:00 position, and I give the tire a slight "thump" with my fist before removing the valve cap.