Fitting hogshead on transmisson

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: Fitting hogshead on transmisson
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By CHRIS SHEPPARD on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 04:46 pm:

There is a lot of great info on this sight thru the years I've had my hogshead 4 or 5 times, my question is what is the secret of getting it to drop down smoothly ? I have always had trouble getting it to not hang up one something. Thanks for any help in advance, I have a 1919 TT TRUCK that still has the solid rubber tires in the rear.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rich Bingham, Blackfoot, Idaho on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 05:03 pm:

Chris, pulling the hogshead is always an adventure, seems like it always takes a bit of "fiddling" to get it to seat. What has helped me most is to jig the pedals in place, seated on the cams so they can't flop around. A couple of years ago Royce Peterson posted on this process, and showed a simple clamp he made to hold the pedals in place. Second, having the band ears held firmly in place is important. My opinion, the original Ford tool for the purpose is the best, one can be made without a lot of trouble. Others use wire or zip ties. Another help is to have the felt or whatever gasket/seal you prefer for the "hump" at the back of the block properly sized so there is minimal interference getting it to seat. Often the felts sold for the purpose are 'way oversized. I like to "glue" it to the inside curve of the cover with ultra black so it can't "escape" while you're wrestling with the hogshead. Good luck ! Take your time and relax . . . I'm sure some good suggestions will be posted.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 06:46 pm:

Chris, I clear anything that might get even slightly in the way, out of the way. That usually means removing the exhaust pipe. Depending on the car and the state of the exhaust manifold, the manifold may have to come off too. I take the magneto contact off so the cover can settle without that causing problems. To give some wiggle room at the the torque tube ball, I hook a load tiedown around one of the radius rod ends and to the rear of the chassis and ratchet the whole thing back as much as I can. Then you have better chance of the whole thing dropping into place. It is much easier, especially with the cast iron covers, if you can bribe a second pair of hands working from the other side to lower the thing in place.

Two other tips. Heavily impregnate the felt strip with silicone gasket material, on both sides, so you have in effect a silicone seal held together with felt. Lay this in the groove around the back of the block where it cannot fall out while fitting.
Secondly, tie the bronze clutch fork to the shaft with dental floss so that it stays in place as you lower the cover. That's one less thing to have to manipulate. It doesn't if you can't retrieve all the dental floss when you have finished.

Hope this makes the job less painful.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By CHRIS SHEPPARD on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 09:35 pm:

Thanks for the tips, for what they built in that time of history they did great, but it is hard see farmers lying in the dirt working on these. I just freshened up the motor in the last month or so new pistons , rods, valves, tappets, timer and some others items. Fitting the rods were a pain. once I get it going and cleaned up I'll post a picture


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver- liberal,mo. on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 09:50 pm:

when i build one on my krw stand i put the pan on after the hoghead.!!! charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harry Lillo on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 09:59 pm:

Charley,
I am trying to picture how you would hold a pre-26 hogshead upside down, in place, while installing the pan. Can you please elaborate on your technique. Thanks......Harry


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick in Florida on Friday, September 14, 2018 - 10:09 pm:

It sure would be nice if the firewall on my '26 coupe was removable. It would make working on the engine a whole lot easier. I almost have to lift and block up the body to be able to properly install the hogshead without destroying the gaskets in the process. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Anthonie Boer --- Klaaswaal NL on Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 01:41 am:

Chris : A great help for me is this :
544S
Toon


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver- liberal,mo. on Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 08:05 am:

harry i will get pics today, charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 12:53 pm:

Here is one tool that I won't part with for love or money. It lay in my tool box for quite awhile because it took me a long time to figure out how it worked. Once I caught on to it, it truly transformed the job of replacing the hogshead from a nightmare to an easily managed one.

The complete tool consists of three individual tools chained together:



To use, first you compress the band ears with the familiar clip. This tool is well made and it won't twist or bend like the reproductions currently made:



With the clip in place around the ears, secure them with a plastic cable tie or equivalent and remove the clip. Then use the clamp to hold the pedals in their normal position in the hogshead:



Finally, with the pedals firmly clamped, use the plier to compress the band springs by spreading the handles putting the "fingers" over the spring ends, squeezing the handles and then holding them compressed by slipping the loop over the ends of the handles:



Pick up the hogshead with the fixtures attached
and the whole works will very literally drop right into place. Remove the clamp and pliers and you're in business. After years of fighting the job, I was utterly amazed at how easy these tools made the job go.

So look for one at Hershey or your favorite swap meet. That's where I found mine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver- liberal,mo. on Saturday, September 15, 2018 - 02:33 pm:

ok this is how i do it,some will think i am nuts,i thinks so most of the time.put the 4 th main on then the tabs on the block then fit the bands then set the hogshead and seal,the clamp bolts to a head bolt. then swing the clamp over the mag post pad and then tighten up tell the hogshead is on the pads then fix the gasket the way you want it,after it sets up, take off the pads,then drop on the pan.!!!!!!!!!!! i know i am nuts.ha,ha. charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harry Lillo on Sunday, September 16, 2018 - 07:23 pm:

Thank you for explaining it Charley. I had figured out the fourth main holding the back end but was having trouble with the front of the hogshead. A neat trick.....Harry


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