Can I.......

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: Can I.......
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Friday, September 21, 2018 - 09:40 pm:

.....remove number one rod without taking off the head and removing the piston/rod assembly? Will the piston come down the bore far enough to slide the wrist pin out?

I ran a bearing on Henrietta going to the show this morning. I have a good rod to replace same, but am loathe to remove the head if I can avoid it. too much original crud to disturb, and I suspect a frozen bolt or two. Hope the back two behave as they should if the head has to come off.

Does anyone have a sure fire way to loosen up the head bolts before wrenching on them?

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kep on Saturday, September 22, 2018 - 01:40 am:

I believe the president of the model T club of NZ has done that. You might be able to ask him how.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Walt Berdan, Bellevue, WA on Saturday, September 22, 2018 - 12:53 pm:

I changed the #1 rod in a 26 motor about 10 years ago. Yes, drop just to the point of sliding out the wrist pin but no further and it works fine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, September 22, 2018 - 09:51 pm:

Depends on whether you have the original type pistons or the repro aluminum ones. The original pistons had one ring below the wrist pin and in order to get the piston down far enough the ring will come out of the cylinder. I have tried to do number 3 without removing the head and it is actually easier to remove the head, at least for me it is. Kind of like trying to adjust the clearance in the 3rd main without removing the engine. Easier if you pull the engine. You will need some gaskets, but save trying to do the work while laying on your back under the car.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James M. Riedy, Sandusky, Ohio on Monday, September 24, 2018 - 09:52 am:

Allan, I did number three that way about 20 years ago, just had to reach up in and compress the bottom ring with my hand to get it back in. I think I just used a long extension with my socket set to remove the retaining bolt. Not easy but doable. By the way you may want to move this to the regular forum for better response. Jim

(Message edited by tfan on September 24, 2018)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James M. Riedy, Sandusky, Ohio on Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 01:10 am:

Alan, Just wondering how you made out with your con rod? Success I hope. Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 01:29 am:

Here's Allan's story on the repair - it was a success (with some problems, like always)
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/822076/905584.html?1539429829#POST1116713


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 06:43 am:

Thanks Roger.
Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Humble Northern Michigan on Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 08:20 am:

Allen, what exactly do you mean by "ran a bearing"?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 08:41 am:

Why is it easier to do the 3rd. main bearing if you remove the engine? Is it just a question of say being able to stand up? Seems the clearances would be the same in or out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James M. Riedy, Sandusky, Ohio on Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 09:41 am:

Glad to hear that you made out ok. Somehow I missed your posting on the results that Roger posted. Thanks Roger. Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 06:31 pm:

Jeff, it's just a term we use to describe a bearing failure, not necessarily attributable to any particular cause. In this case, the whitemetal crumbled. I was able to nurse the car home some 12 miles or so, under her own power. It meant alternating between opening and closing the throttle so there was either load under acceleration or deceleration. Free running allowed the bearing to knock. Fortunately, the bearing was not a total failure that allowed the rod to damage the crankshaft journal.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 06:41 pm:

Charlie B - adjusting the third main in the car would be next to impossible with a '11-'24 three dip pan.
Thus removing the engine to get the pan out of the way would make it much easier.





(Message edited by Roger K on October 18, 2018)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Duey_C west central, MN on Thursday, October 18, 2018 - 11:42 pm:

Very neat Allan!


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