I might be looking for knife edge balancer to balance transmission parts. What would I expect to pay for a used one? In addition to the balancer what else is required to balance the flywheel, drums, etc?
Took about 30 minutes to fabricate
In my view, the hard part is machining the mandrels, mostly because I don't have a lathe at home.
Neil, as Scott has used, a drive shaft either side, no lathe needed.
I used a wheel balance r from Hf that I bought years ago
Good idea about the used drive shafts. How about the drums?
I don't bother to balance drums and I do have lathe's to make any mandrels I wish, but I'm sure for the likes of not having such machine shop equipment, to find a cheap or borrow a wood lathe, most sheds seem to have them collecting dust in ones neighbourhood, just make then out of wood.
This is what I would be looking for, I stole this picture from the forum. I read quite a few older posts and this seemed to be a reasonable option for balancing all the interworking pieces of the tranny. Thoughts on what the value is before I put an ad in the classified. I don't want to ask people to dig through their stash to find out it is more than I am willing to pay. Thanks
Scott, if the one above is outside my price range I will make one as you did. Thanks for the picture.
I may also look at the HF one that G.R. uses.
This is a brake drum mandrel that I borrowed from the shop I work at. Held the centering cones with o-rings, it worked perfect. The aluminum tubing has very little resistance against the mandrel making an EASY AND CHEAP knife edge balancer
You are welcome.
FWIW: You will find that the balancer similar to the picture you posted, will be amazingly expensive if purchased new.
The contraption I put together has a nut/screw on each "leg" to get the rails level. The round rods create a theoretical "knife edge" to the transmission shaft. Placing a 10-32 nut on the perifery of a balanced flywheel will result in the flywheel rotating. That's plenty good for me. The only drawback, and it's a minor one, is before the flywheel is balanced, you have to be sure to not let the assembly roll away on you and run off the rails. I find this to not be a drawback worth spending lots of $$$ to avoid.
This setup is about 10 years old. I store the drill-rod "rails" to keep them clean and corrosion-free. The rest I don't care about and just store where it's out of the way.
That's my Sunstrand Brian posted the photo of & they're not cheap !!! I have the mandrels to balance any T part that turns in a circle.
I priced static balancers like in Brian Healey' photo- sakes alive! $1000.00 and more.
So about a month ago, I built my own from scrap steel laying around the barn, with the exception of 4 bearings that can be purchased from Tractor Supply for less that $7.00 each. I had 2 transmission shafts that a friend trued for me (use 1 on each side of the flywheel). Now, I'm currently driving the engine that I balanced and it sure is smooth.
I guess I'm building one. Thanks for the designs. Feel free to post other design ideas
Brian, I've used one like Steve's Sunstrand. It is amazingly sensitive!! Those wheels will spin for Ever.... You do need a good set of mandrels. No need to have it level.
I attach magnets to different places on the part to be balanced. I then weigh the magnets and found a chart online that tells you what size drill bit and how much to drill to match that weight. I sure helps to give you a good idea.
Mine is just like Scott's except I did make knife edges. These are 14" power hacksaw blades with backs ground down until the back surface is almost gone.
If I ever nick one it is easy to bolt a replacement on.
Allan from down under.
When you actually complete the balance add and remove weights?
When you actually complete the balance how do you add and remove weights?
Same way Ford did, drill a hole on the heavy side. I built mine using the knife from a 30" paper cutter. With the magnets in place, I wish the frame was aluminum because I do see that the magnetism can effect the rotation to some degree. Being a knife edge, I have to set the flywheel/shafts on it, no dropping. Mine also has leveling feet for uneven surfaces. My mandrel shafts are not polished but seem to do the job. Personally, I only have been doing the flywheel/magnet assembly along with getting rods and pistons within a few grams of each other. Not building race cars and the ones I have done seem to be fine. Mine has been up to 50 plus, I didn't feel any undue vibration. Of course I should add I used a 26/27 fully machined flywheel that only need a small amount of "fixing" on my setup.