Let me know if I got anything wrong and need to make corrections.
That's convenient timing, I've saved up three metal stems that I want to use for this. Thanks!
Very nice didactic. The only thing I would do for clarity is number the images ... or stack them one over the other for the sequence.
Very nice. Love the photos
What a great addition to you collection of advice.
Very informative. Thank you for your time and effort.
Will contact cement dissolve or "rot" the rubber??? Would rubber cement be better?? Just wondering.
Steve, I've never quite understood how the metal stems were installed or used......never needed to because I just used the modern rubber stem.
Thanks to your excellent photos and text, my next tubes will have metal stems.
Thank you sir!
I just ordered a metal stem tube but believe they are backordered. Where can I get the appropriate stems and which should I use for my l920 with Pasco wire wheels?
I smile every time I see an article on installing metal stems now because my father-in-law and brother-in-law were watching one day when I unfolded a brand new tube and clipped off the rubber stem. Both of them squealed like a little girl, thinking that I had screwed up big time.
Steve the diagram seems to show a flap under the bridge washer or am I not seeing it correctly. I assume you can omit the flap and then the bridge washer is right on the tube but if you use a flap it would seem to create an issue as it is the flap being pressed on the tube by the bridge washer that makes the seal. Do you use a flap and if so did you place it over the bridge washer?
I have a couple of tubes with defect rubber stems and also som metal stems. I must see if I can make this work.
Thanks Steve for another very informative tutorial!
Hal, I've used contact cement on rubber in various places, and so far no problem. Rubber cement eventually dries out and unsticks.
Noel, I get the stems at swap meets, but some of the parts dealers might have a few. Most of them have used parts not listed in their catalogues. For use on your wire wheels I would measure the hole and figure out how long a stem you need to get a dust cover on it. If the holes are big enough, I would go with #724 or #725 because they're more plentiful than the #777.
Val, some of my tires have flaps, but I haven't used them in my more recent installations. It's been so long that I don't remember whether I followed the diagram or left the flaps outside the bridge washers. Just guessing I would say the latter, but I won't know for sure until I have to change one of them.
Steve, you're my hero.
Steve,I'm going to allow a week to ten days sometime (because it would probably take that long to get there), and drive our '21 Touring to Kansas to shake your hand and buy you a cup, or three of coffee.
Steve, in your photo and commentary about the dust covers you mention that some nickel era cars had "separate threads for the dust cover." Actually, all cars, brass and nickel had these pieces. They are called "rim nuts" and came in both hex and round knurled styles. I have 1914 factory photos showing both styles on the cars. They were brass until '17 when the brass was nickel plated. They sure save a lot of time and effort when installing the dust covers and thus are not only correct but very necessary parts!
All this stuff to allow one to fit Schraeder dust caps is why I just love the Dill caps with the sliding internal threaded piece. No rim nut, no need to allow for different length stems, thicker stems no worries, just thread them on to the valve cap thread, slide them down to the desired depth and tighten. And you get a valve removal tool as a bonus!
Allan from down under.