Some years back I replaced the front entrance double doors to the house, they were $2800.00 w/hardware. When putting the brass hardware lock system in I drilled two quarter inch holes 3/16" off, then had to use decorative plugs to cover up my mistake !!! To this day I still get pissed off at myself for such a dumb mistake.

The reason why this post is similar. I recently purchased "brass toe guards" for my 1915 Touring. But before I even pick up a center punch I better have my ducks in a row. I cringe at the thought of drilling some holes in my perfectly good original running boards and not being correctly positioned. So, does anyone have pictures or a original ad that shows the proper way they should be put on ??? Or any input at all would be greatly appreciated, once the holes are drilled, that's it "NO TURNING BACK".

Hi, Glue brass screw heads in the holes and glue thin magnets on the bottom and they will stick to the steel running boards and you can take them off for cleaning or any other purpose. I would not think of drilling holes in running boards to protect them, it does not make much sense.

Bob, you may be a genius. Especially given how strong some easily available magnets are.

Mine are glued on with a bead of RTV (the clear household kind). The cutoff brass oval-head screws are held in the same way. The step plates are secure enough in use, but pry off easily when needed. Don't drill any holes...

Placement of step plates is for the owner, usually first place and be sure it is where you actually put your foot!

Period photos don't show much if any metal plates on early T's. Some had Coco mats on the running boards, clipped in place.

Later T's used polished alum. or nickel plated plates, some with rubber inserts. Can't seem to find any period adv. listing brass as the finish.

If using a non-mechanical means, without bolts, sure would test it plenty, using folks of heavy weight if you carry passengers. Don't want that plate to move!

Or just don't use them.

Apparently there are several who cringe at the thought of drilling holes in an original running board. (myself included)

Don't put them on. After all, running boards were made to be stepped on. What really gets me are the people that put a step plate under the dummy door! I restored my '13 in the very early '50s, with over 55,000 miles, and I don't detect any wear at all.

Larry, my 1927 roadster pickup has a running board mounted spare carrier. That car has a driver's door, but it won't open because the spare is there. If I were to use step plates (I dont') I would need one outside that door because I still enter there... climbing over the closed door! In fact I use the lower part of the spare as an entry step all the time!

Larry what we're you 3 years old when you restored that car, you don't look that old. Oh and from someone's profile quote, you never use to be that old

Took me a long time to find a matched set of 4 originals. I always glue them on, easily reversed if a future owner doesn’t want them. They will need a good heat gun, though. I use fine stainless steel wire around the screws to give the glue a better chance.

WOW, hey guys, the response has been fantastic !!! Never crossed my mind to glue a magnet to the back of the step plate and base of the toe guard. What magnets should I look for and maybe a 2 part epoxy glue ??? They would have to be a very strong magnet, but I like the idea versus drilling holes. With the step plates glued to the running boards, can they move/slip when stepped on ??? The toe guards are just an added little extra brass. Furthermore, the Touring has a accessory driver's side door. So I had Glen cast a yellow brass copy of the other toe guards to match. To each an everyone that responded, thank you, thank you. They were all "good advise" and much appreciated, but please advise as to where to look for those magnets mentioned and the proper glue to use.

Magnets like they use on magnetic signs.

My wife and I use 1” circular “earth” magnets to hang our 40” x 60” photographic prints in gallery and museum exhibitions. They are incredibly strong and actually dangerous. I designed a special tool to place them on the print to prevent damaging the surface of the paper. They come with special spacers inbetween and once you get them apart make sure you don’t set them down too close to each other. They can slide across a table to each other and break in pieces on impact.

Cut off the heads of the screws and epoxy them in the four holes of each step plate, then secure the step plates to the running board with 3M double sided heavy duty, weather resistant mounting tape sold at McMaster-Carr. This is the same type of black rubber-like tape that is used to secure auto trim and auto insignias in place. Almost impossible to remove once secured in place. Www.mcmaster.com. Jim Patrick

Ps. I did that with the clock that I installed on my dashboard, due to the fact I did not want to drill holes in my dashboard. The way I did it, looks like it is screwed to the dashboard. I have since installed a 490 Stewart speedometer in my dash so my dash is no longer hole-less. Jim Patrick