Removing transmission

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2018: Removing transmission
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Zinn on Monday, November 12, 2018 - 10:21 pm:

I have removed my engine and know that there are 4 bolts which hold transmission to engine. It looks to me that removing the wire and getting to the bolts is next to impossible. I have the books and none of them say "how" to remove them. Is there a trick, or do I just need to hold my mouth right?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jason Given - St. Paul, MN on Monday, November 12, 2018 - 10:42 pm:

Sorry I cannot help. I was reading the books, over the weekend and none appear to tell you how to remove the tranny.

Good luck


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, November 12, 2018 - 10:48 pm:


5Z209 is the Ford wrench for that.


A crow foot should do it too.

Be sure you mark the position of the flywheel so you don't have it turned 180º when you reinstall it.


(Message edited by steve_jelf_parkerfield_ks on November 12, 2018)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jason Given - St. Paul, MN on Monday, November 12, 2018 - 10:55 pm:

What size crows foot?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, November 12, 2018 - 11:15 pm:

11/16"


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, November 12, 2018 - 11:23 pm:

CORRECTION: The correct Ford wrench is 5Z210, not 5Z209.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Rodell, Sr.- Wisconsin on Monday, November 12, 2018 - 11:50 pm:

I have the Ford 5Z210 wrench, but I prefer to use an old Blackhawk wrench that was made for this job. There were many tool companies making similar wrenches for this purpose.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell, Huntsville, AL on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 08:39 am:

I found that using a universal socket (not a socket plus a universal)in 3/8 drive works well. The Blackhawk wrench is good for final tightening. My set looks like these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Powerbuilt-10-Piece-3-8-Inch-Drive-Metric-Universal-Joi nt-Socket-Set-6-Point/271366412729?hash=item3f2eb2d9b9:g:r9IAAOSws5BaYDaC but are SAE. When setting up the magneto, using the swivel socket is much quicker to use.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 08:50 am:

I agree with Jim Rodell. The Blackhawk or Walden-Worcester wrenches are much easier to use than the Ford wrench. I found some early on and have always used them instead of the Ford one. In fact, I didn't know about the Ford wrench until a year or 2 ago. I always wondered why so many flywheel bolts have their ears buggered up until I saw the original Ford wrench used for that purpose. That explained it :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 09:03 am:

Mike

Same here, always a struggle with a socket wrench there, open end seemed better, but many of those bolts heads had been attacked before me!

Someone posted a bent-up gooseneck 11/16" box wrench, so got out the hot wrench and bent up one of those, works great. Now have the correct Ford, works best. Good leverage.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeff cordes on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 09:08 am:

You can use a shallow well 3/8 socket and a short extension as well. Just position the crank flange in the right position to avoid the main cap for every bolt. It's really quite simple.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 09:45 am:

Steve what is the Ford 5Z209 wrench supposed to be for. I have one of those.
I have an old box end that's offset about right for the Transmissin to crank bolts. It works a little better than my worn out Ford wrench for the trans bolts.
Old Ford wrenches usually wound up on the farm for many other uses. And that's the one that I have. Worn out!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Humble Northern Michigan on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 10:06 am:

5z-209 connecting rod clamp screw
5z-210 flywheel cap screw


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 10:08 am:

5Z209 is a 9/16" offset wrench listed for Connecting rod clamp screw.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Rodell, Sr.- Wisconsin on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 10:09 am:

The 5Z209 is for the wrist pin bolt up in the piston.
In the back pages of Bruce's big black book all of the Z tools and standard FORD tools are listed for identification.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 11:45 am:

Dennis, you have to take the pan off. Reading your first post leads me to think you are trying to do this with the pan on.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Zinn on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 11:50 am:

Steve
I got a wrench on three of the bolts, but mine are 9/16 not 11/16. The engine number indicates that it is a 23. Don't know if that matters. Also, how do I "mark the fly wheel"? As you might surmise, I am not a mechanic. I try to read books and follow the instructions, but some times I don't understand the terms.
Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Zinn on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 11:53 am:

Mark
I have the engine out and pan is off. I am unable to see how this matters, but it is off. Block is free of everything except the transmission.
Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Longbranch,WA on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 11:57 am:

Unless the bolt heads have been resized to accommodate a smaller dimensional wrench, a 9/16" head is attached to a 3/8" bolt ??????


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 12:36 pm:

If you run without magnets, it’s easy. Any 11/16 wrench (spanner) will suffice.
Many years ago, the clubs technical expert (Ted Ascherman RIP) suggested a tap with a hammer to make sure it’s tight... It’s always worked for me :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 03:04 pm:

The #3270 flywheel to crankshaft capscrew is 7/16-20 x 3 3/16" and has an 11/16" head. All years, 09-27. But it doesn't surprise me if something else is in there. A lot of these cars have had all sorts of odd stuff done to them.

Use a punch to make a little mark on the crankshaft flange. Make another one on the flywheel next to it. When you reassemble, the marks should go back together.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Bowker on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 05:12 pm:

Here is a picture of the crank to trans flange bolts without the magnets..


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Tuesday, November 13, 2018 - 09:40 pm:

Because if the pan were on I could have understood your question about getting the wire off and removing the bolts that hold the flywheel on.
Anyway... watch out that is about 65 LBS of dead weight.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Zinn on Thursday, November 15, 2018 - 11:20 am:

Thanks to all who have participated in answering my question. As I stated, I am not a mechanic. So, thanks to Tony's picture and Mark's comment about taking the pan off, I realize that I was looking at wrong bolts. The correct ones are 11/16.
Again, thanks
Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, November 15, 2018 - 11:35 am:

Dennis, you are welcome. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jason Given - St. Paul, MN on Thursday, November 15, 2018 - 03:08 pm:

Dennis, your a week or two ahead of us. Feel free to drive up and lend a helping hand.

I'm fairly mechanically inclined, I too have never tore into a model T engine/trany.

Your always welcome to drive up and teach us what you have learned.

Good luck.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Palmisano on Thursday, November 15, 2018 - 09:13 pm:

As Mark points out, the transmission is heavy. Be careful. With the pan off, the only thing holding the transmission is the four bolts that attach to the crank. They should be safety wired as seen in the picture Tony posted. The engine should be mounted on a stand with the front pointing straight down and transmission pointing straight up. When the four bolts are removed, the transmission can be carefully lifted off.


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