Sounds like I will be pulling the engine to do some Tranny work. A friend has an engine stand I can barrow. As I understand it I will need to make an adapter.
Anyone have a design or recommendation to make an adapter plate? First off, I have zero welding ability. I’m sure I can find someone to help with any welding if needed.
I have one on a stand now, I'll have to get a picture.
I know one ear is bolted to the water inlet bolt hole and I think just an extension needs to be made to hook up the front.
It looks like a HF stand...
Ideas and dimensions in this older post
Bought this one from Lang's and it seems to work well. You only need to drill holes to match you stand.
I bolt two of the arms to the water inlet and bolt a piece of angle iron to the bottom rail of the block. Two holes are drilled in the angle iron for the other two arms of the engine stand. I think I had to turn the bottom tho arms “backward” to compensate for the lower part of the block being closer to the stand..... I’ll have to look tonight, have a block bolted up now.
Yeah, what David said...
Mine is the one available from Lang’s. I won it at the MTFCA Auction at the meeting in Richmond.
Simple, no welding just a length of angle iron and use the holes already in the plate of the engine stand.
Tony can you show a picture of how that adapter is attached to the top of the motor
This is the Lang's sold version, fits great, and you can place it for balance if you have the flywheel and trans already attached. Mounts to any engine stand.
Bolts to water inlet holes, and pegs go into two of the bolt holes for the crankcase bolts.
Sorry, wrong vendor, the plate I posted is from Birdhaven Vintage T Parts, from their Texas T Parts division.
Two attributes I consider essential.
The lower mounting at the pan rail should allow the pan to be fitted while the engine is on the stand. This means just pegs in the adapter, and nothing below the pan rail.
Secondly, the tube through the top of the stand needs to be long enough so that the whole engine, transmission and pan assembly can be rotated. This is specially handy when mounting the trans and aligning the fourth main and pan.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
As Allan says, two pegs into pan bolt holes and two bolts at the water inlet. I made mine adjustable for the center of gravity with or without the transmission mounted, but it doesn't have to be that fancy.
Besides the pegs to make mounting the pan possible, it's also nice to have good access to the mid main bearing nut behind the adapter for torquing.
Here's one that John Zibell and I came up with a few years ago. We were looking for one that would easily allow the nut for the center main to be accessed. John designed it- I built it.