Hi folks-
Last year I installed a brand new joe bell engine/transmission in my 23 touring. It's a 1925 engine with an outside oil line. I might have driven it 30 miles over the course of the summer at low speed, easy handling.
I just changed my oil that was in the car 4 months, and it was extremely watered down and diluted. I suspect this is antifreeze contamination, it looks slightly green but I don't see direct separation of the oil and antifreeze. I ordered a new head gasket and will dig into it once I get the parts. What can I do to make sure it's all flushed out, I prefer not to use kerosene as it's difficult to dispose of. perhaps refill with oil, run it up, and drain?
A rich mixture can produce what you’re seeing. If there were water and antifreeze in the pan, the water would be the first thing you would see coming out of the drain. Look at the screen on your oil fill cap. You will see a caramel colored goop there if water is being tossed around in the pan.
I’m wondering if you discussed this with Joe Bell first? Joe has done several engine for me and my son as well. I have a background in engines and will readily admit that Joe has added to my education.
There is a product that you add to the oil, run it and change oil. I needed some for a V8 years ago. I only needed a qt. but had to buy 5 gal. I sold the rest to a repair shop. Don't remember the name of the product.
Brian,
NAPA sells a BG product called EPR engine flush. Add it to your oil, run the engine the specified amount of time, drain the oil. I use it from time to time on our truck engines. I expect it would work fine in a T engine. Since a T uses less oil than a regular truck/car, you may be able to get two flushes out of one can.
Good Luck,
I don't know whether you checked the torque on the head bolts after you warmed the engine for the first time. You will usually need to tighten them to 50 ft lbs. If they aren't re-torqued, you will often have water leaks or even blown head gasket.
How is the water level in the radiator? The level should be approximately half way up the top tank, about level with the Ford script. If you fill it fuller than that, it will run out the overflow. One very important thing when filling the radiator is to be sure it really is half way up and that you are not just looking at a wet baffle. Once you have established the water level drive the car around until it heats up, then park it. as soon as it cools off check the water level again. It should still be about half way up the tank. Then after the car is parked for a few days check again. If the coolant is getting into the oil, the water level should drop.
An indication of water in the cylinders is when you first start the engine you will have white exhaust until the water in the cylinders has burnt out or evaporated.
If you do find a leak, check the head, the water jacket especially around the exhaust ports and sometimes inside the valve chamber for leaks. Also check all gasket facing surfaces for straightness and no rusted out places leading to the cylinders.
Norm
Any water or coolant in the oil goes to the bottom after sitting any period of time. Runs out first when drained.
It quickly turns the oil into a chocolate milkshake appearance, after running for a while.
Does not thin the oil significantly, that sounds more like fuel from a rich mixture or choking too much.
(Message edited by Ruxstel24 on November 14, 2018)
Dave is right. Oil and coolant make a milky mess. A lot of people overlook fuel dilution. An engine that is repeatedly started and run for short periods will dilute the oil with fuel.
I would not trust just seeing gray or whitish colored oil at the oil filler as in indicator of internal leaks or bad head gasket. I know as I have check more then once and do not have any leaks that I can find inthe engine in my 21. It has had this issue as long as I have had it. Often depending on your storage etc, it's just condensation and burns off after the oil get up to temperature. Now if there was gray or whitish oil coming out the drain after running or if you see water coming out when you first open it if it has been sitting, then there might be an issue.
I think that Norman might be on the right track. I just pulled the head off tonight, and there was a good leak between #2 and #3 cylinder at the center water passage, but no sign of a bad head gasket or a crack in the head or the engine. plenty of antifreeze on top of the #2 and #3 piston though. I cleaned it up quick.
on another note, I did get to peek inside the new engine...bored .40 over with aluminum pistons, adjustable tappets, one piece valves....a true work of art!
if anything, this gave me a great excuse to take it apart for curiosity sake
^^ I think it might have just been an improperly torqued head, and worked itself loose after a short driving season. i probably forgot to retorque after install.