I am working on the 8in1 convertible truck body. It is wood with lots of metal bits. Mostly flat iron and bolts and nuts.
If I use gray tape along the metal to cover the wood, will the tape stop the sand? I will soda blast the wood with lower pressure after. I am trying not to take entire bed apart because the wood and metal bits are in good shape. Besides the fact I dont want to remove another 150 nuts and bolts.
No, it will blast through and make a mess to get it off. Use several layers of good masking tape, like 3M automotive masking tape. You still need to be careful when blasting near the tape, not to hold the blaster on the tape. Works for me.
I agree with Darryl, the 3M tape is tough stuff, though I'd add 1 layer of duct tape on top. The moment you see tell-tale color of 3M tape you're soon headed for trouble.
Use duct tape, just don't leave it on.
Or alternately, use two different colors of tape and watch for one to go away and another color appear...you just want to make sure you never go all the way through.
You can also use a piece of sheet metal or an old license plate and just hold it over the wood.
Duct tape works well for this. As mentioned, don't leave it on for long.
Maybe I will use both masking tape and sheet metal. All I need is a nice day and six guys to carry it outside. This thing is 9ft long and maybe 450 to 500 lbs.
Gorilla Tape is thicker than duct tape.
3m makes a tape for blasting glass to make signs. It would be cheaper to take bed apart.
My experience sand blasting parts that are still attached to something has been disappointing, particularly if it is attached to wood. As others have described you can tape and mask the adjoining wood, I have done it at one time or another too, but there are limitations and risks. The other thing to consider is you will not have cleaned up the back side of the part and that rust will usually over time bleed into the wood and or cause the paint to flake off the edge of the steel part. Having admired the work you have done to date on the cab, cutting corners at this point seems out of character with the fantastic work you are doing. I wouldnt be surprised at some future time if you dont look over your restoration and kick yourself for not cleaning up and painting those parts properly when you had the chance. In my over 45 years in the model t hobby, I have never once looked back and lamented that I put in too much effort and it is too good, but I have kicked myself now and again for not having put in the extra effort at the time when I could have easily had done it, but for various illogical reasons drew a random line in the sand and said good is good enough, slapped it together, and start enjoying it.
I restored my 25 coupe and I pulled all metal brackets off so many at a time, blasted them and then powder coated them. This process took extra time but it was well worth the effort. They look great and will never rust which means the car will be here for many more years
Take it apart, otherwise you won't be able to clean up the edges, like Jeff says. Dave in Bellingham,WA
I don't know the condition of the wood or if the nuts and bolts are rusted up but if the nuts aren't badly rusted and stuck you could use a screw gun or cordless drill to make disassembling faster.
It can save considerable time and you can clean up the nuts and bolts or install new ones to make it look extra nice.
Just a thought.
If you dont completely disassemble it, your blasting medium will get under parts and into the tiniest nooks and crannies. It will and take up semi-permanent residence there despite all your diligent efforts to flush it out- until you go to paint your project. THEN all that hidden abrasive residue will miraculously make its way to the surface and ruin all your hard work.
Trust me. I know from first hand experience. If you do it right the FIRST time, you wont have to do it right the SECOND time!
The wood on upper half is solid and beat up from use. The metal parts on top half is in good shape. The truck will be used for many things around the farm. I also live on a gravel road so making a show quallity restoration is not what Im after. The cab had to be rebuilt as it was rotten. I am retaining as much of original wood in the bed as possible. The bed had adjustable sides with sliding brackets to do so. It will be scratched the 1st time the bed possition is changed. Thank you for all the replies.I will give it some thought on my next move.
Just remember, multiple layers of duct tape and masking tape is not cheap either.