I have a 1919 TT truck. my problem is I repacked the bottom half of the rope seal and put a new half in the top. I think when I packed the bottom half it raised the crank slightly out of line and can't get the timer to to quite center itself. I am going to pick out rope seal install felt seal and add the daisy seal. The felt seal I GOT IN MY GASKET SET IS ONE PIEC CUT ACCOSS IN ONE SPOT. When you put this felt seal in where do you want the split to be ? as in a clock face what time ? do you just use one of these seals ? is seal p/n T-3012M STILL A good pn for a DAISY SEAL? tHANKS TO ALL FOR HELP IN ADVANCE
Chris, If you want to make sure you don't have oil leaks at you crank check out the modern crankshaft seal posts. Lots of T guys now use a modern seal and install in on the outside of the engine glued to the block and between the crank pulley. Google that and you'll see the seal # and some pictures how to install it with Ultra Black.
Sorry, if you were referring to that outside seal when you said DAISY.... I use a CR 12458. It's very thin but your daisy won't be very large, Not problem with clearance though.
I use the Model A rope seal. They are a little longer then needed so they need to be trimmed back a little. I seat mine in the two sections using a socket or round bar about the same size as the crank, then trim the ends so they stand about 1/8 above the pan and front casting. If you are talking about the white rope seal and didn't trim them that could be the issue you are running into.
All the felt seals I have seen in the gasket kits are 2 piece. They would have to be, the pan gasket gets pinched between the ends.
When I have installed rope seals I found it necessary to tap the timing gear cover down with a plastic mallet while the bolts are just snug enough to prevent it from moving back up. Once your centering tool fits in the timer recess properly tighten the bolts and recheck.
Chris, the 19 has the narrow front covers so you have to trim the modern seal to make it narrower to fit in, I have notched the pan rail gaskets so the felt will butt up to each other and make a better seal. Some of the engines I have tore down with the A rope seal have put a groove in the front of the crank so next time a modern seal will not work unless you turn the front down and re sleeve it.
The outside crank seal method using a modern oil seal and installing it with ultra black works well. It's a simple fix that will last for a good while and really works.
I wouldn't go to the trouble installing a rope seal when the outside oil seal works just as good or or better.
A long time ago, I discovered a V-8 rope seal would work in those early covers.
Joe, in my experience with our Canadian sourced cars, I have found the following. With pre generator blocks, the earlier front covers had the narrow seal groove and the similar groove in the camshaft hole. Then they progressed to the open camshaft hole that will take a modern seal but still with the narrow groove for the crankshaft seal. Then they came with the open cam seal and the wide groove for the crank seal.
This probably means that our cars had the wide crank seal groove by 1919, prior to the introduction of the generator.
US production may differ?
Allan from down under.