Well, I installed the steering column I had been rebuilding fir the past couple of weeks. I put in a new bushing in the frame mounted bracket, new gears in the gear box, new steering wheel key and better nuts on both ends. I also reworked the spark and gas rods so that they actually click into place on the quadrant.

So, here’s the thing; in thirty five years I have never really driven a model T with such a good fitting steering system. In the past I kept up on tie rods, ball joints, spindle bushings and wheel bearings and thought that was the best I could do and was comfortable driving with what I thought was normal slop in the wheel.

Since we’ve had rain for several days I decided to do a test drive around Rochester for a couple of hours. I was amazed at the difference; actually a little startled. The slightest turn of the wheel is communicated to the wheels. It’s a little too responsive compared to what I’m used to. It’s also tighter and I know it will loosen up in time. Not sure what other people use in their ball joints but for several years I’ve used EZ Turn lubricant. Makes a good long lasting lube in those areas.

Mark:
I'm surprised you only replaced one steering bracket bushing! There are two the last time I checked. When I did my '25 I welded up the flat spots on the bottom of the spark and throttle rods, and then got them nickel plated. Since it's difficult to grease the steering balls, when I'm under the car oiling the spindle and tie rod oilers, I just squirt some oil in those areas, and rotate the drag link to get the oil in there.

Well, the steering bracket on a ‘23 only has one bushing on the bottom, so that was my only option. Interestingly it’s exactly the same ID and OD as the cam shaft bushing which is just a little longer.

I redressed the spark and throttle rods and they work great. Replating them or the gear case would look really out of place on my car since I’ve been working hard to keep it looking original .. not a modern interpretation of what it looked like when new. Remember ... I work in a conservation department of a museum. We don’t do shiny. :-) Anyway ... it works great.

Try the EZ Turn on your ball joints for kicks. Sticks like crazy and keeps the parts from wearing. I originally bought it for the gas shut off valve on the bulb under the gas tank.

Mark where do you find the EZ Turn grease? What kind of store or shop??????
Thank you

Glad it drives better, good job !

Bill, you can find it in Lang’s catalog where they list the gas tank and gas line parts. It’s sold for the gas tank valve but works great on ball joints. I was looking for other ways to use it since it’s expensive and you only use a little on that gas valve.

Oh .. Larry, here is a listing in the Ford Parts List with the transition from two bushings .. to one on that bracket. Evidently it happened in 1921. I guess your ‘24 has an earlier bracket.

Not to worry. -You'll get a little play in the wheel soon enough!

Mark,

Congratulations. What is the steering rim dead movement now? Before you reported an inch. You will get used to the responsiveness.

LOL ... I think that it was more like two inches or more before. Frankly I was not really aware of the actual amount since I'd gotten used to it. After rebuilding everything in the gear box and bracket it was around 1/4 of an inch .. until I replaced the steering wheel key. That was the last slop to take up and now it's tight as a tick. I was always told not to force the steering wheel when the car is not moving. So, while moving it's dead on. I do plan to install a vintage APCO steering column to dash bracket to counter the stress on the column. But yes, it's now to a sensitive degree of steering I'm not used to at all. Before I gave the wheel an occasional correction. The car drove very straight and never veered off to one side or another. Now I feel like I'm constantly steering it.

I've been working with T's all my adult life, and I have never stopped learning something new. Thank you Mark for setting me straight on the steering bracket bushing.

I guess I was lucky that my '23, while a transition year, seems to have most of what could have been there in '23. I had a lot of rusted cotter pins to remove when I took the thing apart for evaluation and rebuilding.

I just finished doing the same to my entire steering system. Coming from racing Porsche 911s to a Model T was a shock to the system, especially since I had designed and fabricated some of the finer steering components on my race car. The simplicity and effectiveness of the T steering system (and the whole car for that matter) amazes me. The two items that made the most difference (together they accounted for about 2” of steering whl play) were the lower bushings in the frame bracket and the loose pins in the platenary gears. I haven’t replaced those gears yet but am waiting for them from Lang’s. It’s less than an inch of play right now. As has previously been noted in many other posts on this topic, each refinement/change/upgrade adds up to huge improvement in safety and usability as an end result.

Interestingly I also added a steering damper available from one of the parts houses and did some before and after testing with it. Since I drive the heck out of this car daily and I don’t plan on ever winning show points I can report it is a very effective addition that will now stay on the car. The mounting mechanism as provided leaves a lot to be desired and I’ll be making it more permanent by welding better brackets. Essentially the damper smoothes out what’s known as “bump steer”. Since my driveway is about 3/4 mile long and on a 15% grade in places and VERY bumpy, the damper’s effect is dramatic there, esp when coming downhill. Even on relatively smooth road, it’s effect is very positive and worthwhile. I know the purists will hate the thought of adding this device, but frankly, it’s my car and I’m the one driving it! A lot! And better safe than sorry.

Jeff

Jeff

as you are doing some of the fabrication yourself, do yourself a favor and ensure that the motion on the damper remains perfectly parallel to the movement of the tie rod.

I have seen two installations now where the damper was mounted such that the base of the damper was very near the axle, placing a significant angle of motion and strain on the tie rod to the point where the tie rod cracked and was only discovered by happenstance prior to total failure of the tie rod.

If you take all the play out of the steering, keeping the car in a straight line becomes difficult.
Just thought I'd point that out. It's a common trap people fall into. You only need a tiny bit of free play.

Yup, those steering dampeners [shock absorbers] seem like a good idea when your steering isn't working well or when you drive on "washboard" roads, but if they cause damage to the tie rod .. you're in a very bad place.

Kep. I'm hoping for some wear will take care of this. In the good weather I drive this T every day. I could also put accessory spring loaded ball cap ends on the ball joints. Not sure how to introduce slop other than loosening something and that doesn't seem to make sense.

You have been, and continue to be, ahead of me as you get your "weathered" car up to snuff.

I eagerly follow your progress and try to learn from what you're doing.

Did you post a thread with photos about the steering rebuild?

There were two threads where I posted what I was up to. Be glad to send you what pictures I have. Just email me at mosterman@eastman.org

My next real job is going to be rebuilding the top .. and finding better seat material than what I see on the show cars .. if possible. The new stuff is too thick and doesn't fold at all like the original material. Might be impossible .. but I'll try.

I'm right there with you Mark. I just bought a nice one-man top and seats from a forum member.

Sent you an email Mark.

Scott,

Agreed. Good steering geometry starts by analyzing each component’s xyz plane and observing how the various interconnected pieces interact, or just as important, shouldn’t interact! Especially at the extremes of movement.

I’m especially impressed by Ford’s compromise on the stock setup choices of camber, caster, and toe settings for a car that has such a high center of gravity. They obviously didn’t have the benefit of decades of F1 or NASCAR research with strain gauges, lasers, and data recorders measuring everything. Yet the ride in this car with skinny tires, no shocks and a body that flexes more than my brother in law does is amazingly good, and I’d go as far as saying even comfortable.

It did take a little getting used to going around sharp corners in the T at anything more than 10-15mph. And it’s always amusing when a passenger experiences it for the first time ;)

I’d be curious where Henry Ford got his inspiration for the suspension design and how much of it he innovated and how much he ”borrowed” from other then-current, period car designs. I’ve read a lot of material on most other aspects of the car but haven’t found much on this topic. Looking at the unmodified factory cars over the yrs, it seems they really didn’t change much from the original general suspension principles.

Jeff

Mark:

I also found EZ LUBE to be a great general lubricant for T stuff since it really sticks in place great. I stopped a small leak at the sediment bowl front Filter/gas line fitting by using it on the lead washer there and that ended that leak when nothing else seemed to fix it. The amount of that stuff you get in a tube is so large that unless you find other places to use it you will probably end up tossing it away in the many years you will have it I like the stuff. I have not tried it yet on tie rod ends and such but do think it would be a great lube generally for ball type fittings such as those because of its viscosity.

Yes, it’s great in all ball joints.

Tried Googling EZ Lube and not much came up. Where can one find it?

I believe Lang's carries it.

I just use regular graphite grease in the steering joints. If you do your steering correctly, you don't need any kind of any accessory in the system. When I put oil in the shackles and king pins, I always squirt some into the steering balls, and wiggle the drag link back and forth to work it in. I sure beats pulling those caps off.

Here's the 5 Oz tube from Lang's: https://www.modeltford.com/item/2902LUB.aspx

Here's my take: any semi-solid/gelled lubricant is going to attract and retain grit. That grit will break down to fine abrasive and do it's dirty work from there. I like the way Larry lubes his front end and as it turns out, I do the same. This process will continuously flush out contaminants. EZ turn lube will stay put and will not break down with any oil, so will be the perfect carrier for lapping compound. I would not want it anywhere near dirt.

My $.02

Here's a suggestion for another period accessory that should be reproduced - should save the joints from wear if driving much on dusty roads:

Roger

now, that would be neat!

I have also rebuilt the entire steering system in my '27. I cannot believe that it is the same car. It has gone from 90-year-old scary to a really enjoyable car to drive. I honestly have a hard time believing that a now-91 year-old car drives so nicely.

EZ Turn appears to be a blend of grease, honey and bees wax.

You could probably make your own.

It is primarily for aircraft fuel line fitting.

Years ago, when aircraft still had propellers, we had a product in the Navy called Gastite or Gastight that had about the same consistency and worked the same way.

Hey Mark: Glad you're happy with the new steering components. At the risk of starting another war....did you use the "new and improved" 5:1 gear set or the "old" 4:1 set (LOL)? Bruce

Mark:
I'm the happiest of anyone besides you, that you decided to do it correctly. I'm even happier that you are happy. Having done what you just did, I can appreciate the work you had to do.

Hey Bruce, no, I kept it 4:1 and it’s fine. I don’t feel like I need an upgrade given I’m used to that ratio.

John, yes, I felt the same way. Feels so different. Much more responsive. Anxious to hive it a good run when the road salt subsides.

Scott, well, I guess my experience has been good with the EZ turn for the past few years. I used graphited grease for many years and the ball caps wore in time. I assume any grease can pick up road grit; just the way things wear out in time. But this stuff being so viscus it seems like it would be harder for the grit to get in there. I dunno. The leather boots are neat .. but would need to be very well sealed to keep out road crap.