Im not a brass era T guy. But since I acquired the 1914 speedster I have been trying to learn how to be a "brass car owner" . While waiting on the speedster project engine to return from the machine shop (again). I thought I would install the exhaust system on the 14 speedster to replace the cobbled up Model A exhaust stuff on the car. . I had a good late 14 style muffler and everything else. It all went together nicely, but my question is how does the exhaust pipe seal to the muffler. The exhaust pipe is a loose fit where it inserts into the cast end of the muffler. Looks like it could be a very bad "rattle" .... OK you brass guys, a little help for a "black era T owner" please
It is just a slip fit and is designed to move. It may rattle if it is a real sloppy fit but it should be tight enough not to do that yet loose enough to slide in and out by hand. You might try to swedge the pipe a bit for a better fit.
It doesn't. That's it.
If you'd like, you can go to the parts store and buy a muffler repair kit which will come with a mesh that is wetted and wrapped like an old plaster cast. I did this YEARS ago on my '13 around a very leaky cutout valve and has lasted just fine (amazingly). I can't recall if water was used or if the kit came with chemical of some sort, maybe water-glass (sodiam silicate solution). In any event it worked great.
I just saw a muffler repair kit that used this method at Auto Zone.
I forgot to mention that if the engine pipe rattling in the muffler is the only rattle you have you're way ahead of the game!
When using the cast iron ends, it has to have a slip fit so the pipe can expand and contract. The cast ends are mounted to the frame so the muffler can't move. The later cars use the single sheet metal hanger at the rear and the Model A's, the clamp at the rear allows the pipe to slide as it expands.
I figured it had to move because the muffler is hard mounted to the frame. I have about 1/32 to 1/16 inch gap. I think I might try and pack something (non flammable ), in the gap to seal it a little but still be able to twist and turn.
Try without and then with...you probably won't detect much change
Donnie, I cut a shim from a fruit tin. I left the rolled edge on one side, cut the tin to the correct width, curved it around the pipe, and tapped it in place, tapping against the left-in-place rolled edge. It never did come out, stopped the rattle, but still had the sooty leak as usual.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Mark is probably correct about wanting a little room for expansion, but if you wanted to tighten the fit you could always use a pipe expander like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Tail-Exhaust-Pipe-Expander/dp/B0198ZA9OY/ref=asc_df_ B0198ZA9OY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241983951578&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hv rand=7946570950272601339&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlo cphy=9032482&hvtargid=pla-583463703765&psc=1