How do we remove a stuck outer front wheel bearing on a 1920 Model T roadster? It has not been removed from the shaft in decades. Yes the wheel is still on and it is a wooden spoke wheel.
You know the inner race is threaded onto the spindle, right?
The driver side race has RH threads and the passenger side race has LH threads. The idea is that normal forward rotation of the wheel tends to loosen the race on the spindle.
Threaded bearing? Which side as the threads are reverse on one side.
Lots of penetrating oil too.
Jed, never underestimate the knowledge you will gain by reading the service manual. Remember Proper Procedure Prevents Piss Poor Performance
If all else fails, put some heat to it...
Jed, There are two flat sides on the inner race of the outer bearing. You should be able to use a crescent wrench or channel lock pliers on the flat sides and turn to the front of the car to unscrew from the spindle just like the lock nut unscrewed.
Stop here as this discussion is getting confusing. When you remove the hup cap there will be a big nut with a cotter pin, remove the pin then the big nut will either remove right or left depending on what side it is on. Behind the big nut should be a washer with a notch in it to engage the spindle. The bearing will have shoulders to unscrew it from the spindle, again either left or right depending on what side; DO NOT try to pull the wheel off. The center of the bearing will simply unscrew from the spindle. Look for the flat spots on the center of the bearing and use those to remove it.
Jed: On page 250 of the Lang's Book The Hub cap wrench is a tool that you can use to loosen (HOPEFULLY) to remove the Timken Bearing. One one side the bearing is right handed and one of the bearing is is left threaded. Some one correct me but on the left side the thread ins right hand and the right side they are left threaded. It seems that I was told on the left side the rotation causes the bearing to try and come off but with the flat washer and the hub nut it will tighten and on the other side it is just the opposite. I Hope this helps you. Hopefully you have one of the wrenches shown on the page part #1349.
Bill - You got it right when you said (words to the effect) that "on the left side, the thread is right hand", and, as you said, the right side is opposite (....or, left hand).
The easy was to remember is that the forward motion of the car will turn the wheels in the direction that will tend to screw the inner race of the bearing loose, or, "un-screw" it off of the spindle. The reasoning for this is that if the right front wheel did not have left-hand threads (which it DOES) the forward motion of the wheel (clockwise) would tend to tighten the bearing which could actually LOCK that wheel, which of course would be a dangerous situation. Hope this helps,.....harold
P.S.....this is the same in both the Northern & Southern hemisphere!
......The easy WAY! (.....stupid "auto-correct"!)
Thank you everyone. Great help. This is our first T and we are learning. You folks saved us from learning this the hard way.
I wish you a Happy New Year and trouble free driving.
Nice comments toward the folks on this forum. Enjoy you new Model T!
As always, the Ford presents some rather unusual parts and assembly procedures as an antique.
Info on this site is most helpful to new owners.
Welcome to T ownership!
you did not ask for this but feel compelled to list it again, here, for your use:
Advice that will save you large sums of money, time and frustration:
1. Buy the Model T bible - P/N T-1 at most vendors
2. Never remove the starter until the bendix is removed (it will not clear the mag ring and you will damage the mag if you attempt to remove everything as a single assembly)
3. Never touch the mag post (on top of the transmission) with any kind of battery voltage (either directly or through inadvertant mix-up at the terminal block). Doing so will nearly always demagnetize the magnets on the flywheel and render the magneto useless.
Most everything else is obvious until you get into rebuilding the transmission and we'll hope you don't have to go there for many years.
When in doubt READ the instructions. It works almost every time.
Buy the Ford service manual.
Scott mentioned some good things. In addition; if you have the front axle off the wishbone be sure to put it back in correctly so it tips back and not forward or it will be uncontrollable. Also be sure that the wishbone is not bolted into the pan but secured with studs, castle nuts and wired together (not cotter keyed). You have to make sure nothing can back out and let the wishbone fall to the ground or again an uncontrollable car.
Others with experience hopefully will add to critical failures...a broken or unsafe car is no fun.
Do not attempt to press out the spindle bolts either - the lower axle yoke is threaded !
......prolly' that's why they call 'em "bolts" and not "king pins", huh Steve? (:^)
HAPPY NEW YEAR to both you and Diane Steve!
Wandering way off topic here, but I think Jed's question has been pretty well answered here, plus a few other good "tips" that some of us had to learn "the hard way", right?
In fact, come to think of it, maybe you only told half of a story here Steve! Just how "DID" you learn that spindle bolts are SCREWED into the lower axle yoke?
Quite often, they're stripped, right? And if so, a guy probably COULD "press" one out, right? Tell the truth now Steve,....am I getting pretty close to how you learned about threaded spindle bolts? Ha, ha,....I know,.....it's so long ago you just forgot, right? (:^) (:^) (.....anyway,.....that's what I'd say.....(:^)
I'm just sort of "rambling" here, but all kidding aside, speaking of "threaded" Model T front wheel bearings, and "threaded" spindle bolts, it's interesting that Model A front wheel bearings are NOT threaded, and slip right on the Model T spindle like modern bearings. I don't really recommend that, because I guess theoretically, that "non-threaded" Model A bearing race that just slips on could turn on the spindle (not good) but "A" bearings in a "T" has worked pretty well for one of our guys in the club, and I guess that's why Model T front wheel bearings are so much more expensive than Model A bearings! Those threads are an added expensive machine operation, right?
Anyway,....just an interesting "tid-bit" I learned from one of our club guys,.....harold
Jed: Don't keep us in the DARK did you get the stuck bearing loose and and off the axle???
Tell me tell me I gotta know
Been there done thet!!!!!!!!!
Bill, Yes they unscrewed just like we were told.
I now have a new question about the tire rims, which I will put in a separate post.
Thanks for all the heads ups. Jed