(First 2500 water pump engines) The fan was gear driven from an extension of the water pump shaft. Unique to these early engines. 1909-1910 Brass hub. Blades riveted to hub. Fan blades had a deeper embossed groove than the blades of the later (1911 on?) type. Belt tension by a coil spring against cast-in knob on the short, bent fan bracket. 1911 Same fan assembly as 1910 but belt tension was adjusted with a screw in the same location as the old spring, the head of which rested on the old cast-in knob on the fan bracket. 1912-1916 Similar fan assembly but tension screw now pressed against a boss at the pivot end of the arm. The cast-in knob on the fan bracket was discontinued around 1914-15. The fan hub was redesigned and to be made of malleable iron beginning in July 1915. However the older (bronze) hub continued into late 1916, both types apparently being used. 1917-1920 Similar to earlier type but hub was now cast iron. In 1916 (1917 cars) the fan bracket was changed to the longer and straighter type, which was used until the 1926 models. Early production 1917 cars used a fan shroud behind the radiator but this was apparently discontinued after a short time. 1920-1925 Beginning May 1, 1920 a larger aluminum hub with one-piece blade assembly (two blade pieces welded together as an assembly) began on trucks at first, then on all cars. 1926-1927 Similar to 1925 but shorter hub to allow water outlet mounting of fan assembly. Early production used a worm screw fan adjustment on the water outlet. This type ended production on late January 29, 1926. On January 29, 1926 this was changed to a simpler and less fragile eccentric which was locked in place by the fan bearing bolt nut. On January 30, 1926 all production (at Highland Park) used the new type.
(All 1-1/8 wide by 7/64 thick, length ± 1/8)
23 long (inside circumference), leather.
25-3/4 long, leather until about 1919, then cotton webbing
26-5/16 long, cotton until about 1922, then rubberized cotton material.
Type with uniform width upper sections and one- piece inserted aprons. Early 1909 types had square fronts and no bills. Later ones were rounded at the front and had bills. Rear fenders supported by irons that ran under the apron on the early 1909 cars; later the irons passed through holes in apron. Painted body color.
Early Production, All body types. (red, green or gray) Part # Factory # Description —– 1413 L/F Square front, no bill. —– 1414 R/F —– 1415 L/R No hole in apron. —– 1416 R/R Supported with irons that ran under the apron.
All body types, Green only after June 1909 Part # Factory # Description 2925 1413A L/F Round front with bill 2926 1414A R/F 2927 1415B L/R Hole in apron for fender iron 2928 1416B R/R
1911-1912 New style fenders with a flared top panel and inserted splash panels. The front fenders were billed, had no reinforcing ribs on the apron. Rear fenders now secured to the body with a single post extending from the body panel (tourings). Fenders were blue, even on now-extant original black cars. During 1911 the front fender irons had a cast-in eye for the top straps, but this was dropped for 1912 and later. 1911
Touring, Roadster, Town Car (blue) Part # Factory # Description 4801 1413B L/F With bill. 4800 1414B R/F 4803 1415C L/R 4802 1416C R/R
4821 1716B L/F 60 Tread 4820 1715B R/F 4823 1748 L/R 4822 1749 R/R
Torpedo and Open Runabout, (blue) Part # Factory # Description 4841 2562 L/F 4840 2561 R/F 4843 2554 L/R Curved rear fenders 4842 2555 R/R
4861 2707 L/F 60 Tread 4860 2706 R/F 4864 2709 L/R 4863 2708 R/R
Touring, Roadster, Torpedo (front only), Town Car Part # Factory # Description 4801 1413B L/F 4800 1414B R/F 4803 1415C L/R 4802 1416C R/R
4821 1716B L/F 60 Tread 4820 1715B R/F 4823 1748 L/R 4822 1749 R/R
(Also used on earlier standard runabout.) Part # Factory # Description 3783 5218 L/R or 4803B 5218 3782 5206 R/R or 4802B 5206
4881 —– L/R or 60 tread 4823B 2732 4880 —– R/R or 4823C 2733
Delivery Car Part # Factory # Description 4414 5212 L/R or 4803C 5212 4413 5209 R/R or 4802C 5209
1913 Similar to 1912 but front bill was eliminated. Earlier front fenders had a front lip which flared outward, as if the bill had been just cut off. No embossed moldings in the triangular splash apron area. Part # Factory # Description 4801 1413B L/F Same part number but now with no front bill. 4800 1414B R/F. 4803 1415C L/R 4802 1416C R/R
4821B 2743 L/F 60 Tread 4820B 2742 R/F 4823D 2740 L/R 4822B 2741 R/R
1914 Similar to 1913 but with the front bill reinstated and with reinforcing beads added across widest part of the front, and in apron area on the front and rear fenders. Later versions appeared with the embossed moldings in the splash apron area and with a front bill. Front fender bracket secured with four rivets (as in all previous fenders). Used from late 1913 to early 1915. Part # Factory # Description 4801 1413C L/F 4800 1414C R/F 4803 1415C L/R 4802 1416C R/R
4821B 2743 L/F 60 Tread 4820B 2742 R/F 4823D 2740 L/R 4822B 2741 R/R
Similar in style to the late 1914 type; front bill, three rivets now used to secure the front fender iron bracket. Rear fenders were now curved to follow the wheel outline and have no crown. Bracket added between splash apron and rear fender./>/> Touring, Roadster, 1916 Sedan, and Coupelet Part # Factory # Description 4801 1413C L/F With bill. 4800 1414C R/F 4803D 1415D L/R Curved rear fenders. 4802D 1416D R/R
4821B 2743 L/F 60 Tread 4820B 2742 R/F 4823E 2759 L/R 4822C 2758 R/R
Sedan Only (1916 Sedan same as above) Part # Factory # Description 4803E 7925 L/R 4802E 7924 R/R
4823F 5724 L/R 60": Tread 4822D 5723 R/R
Front and rear fenders now curved and crowned.
Touring, Roadster, Sedan and Coupe Part # Factory # Description 4801B 7977 L/F 4800B 7976 R/F 4803F 8851 L/R 4802F 8850 R/R
Fordor Sedans only, 1922-1923 4803G 7731 L/R 4802G 7730 R/R
Lip added to front fender apron to match new radiator apron.
Touring, Roadster, Tudor, Fordor and Coupe Part # Factory # Description 4801C 7977B L/F 4800C 7976B R/F 4803F 8851 L/R (Except closed cars) 4802F 8850 R/R
4803G 7731 L/R Tudor & Fordor Sedans 4802G 7730 R/R td>4803H 8851B L/RV Coupe 4802H 8850B R/R
Beginning in late 1924: similar to 1923 style but bead on front fenders now ran under the splash aprons. Rear fenders made a bit wider; now flared out from the running board. There seems to have been some overlap; both types having been used until about the first of calendar 1925. Coupe and Roadster rear fenders had larger skirts in late 1925.
/> Touring, Roadster, Tudor, Fordor and Coupe Part # Factory # Description 4801C 7977B L/F 4800C 7976B R/F 4803F 8851 L/R Except closed cars 4802F 8850 R/R
4803G 7731 L/R Tudor and Fordor Sedans 4802G 7730 R/R 4803H 8851B L/R Coupe 4802H 8850B R/R Note: In late 1925 production the rear fender aprons on the coupe and roadster were made larger to cover more of the running gear. These two body styles used the same fender.
Completely new design (except for trucks which continued the 1925 style). Painted black regardless of body color.
Touring, Roadster, Tudor, Fordor and Coupe Part # Factory # Description 4801D 40109 L/F 4800D 40108 R/F
4803J 40124 L/R Touring, Tudor, Fordor 4802J 40123 R/R
4803K 40131 L/R Roadster, Coupe 4802K 40130 R/R
FENDER WOOD BLOCKS
Front Fender-Running Board Block T-1922 Made of scrap pine, this block measured 7-7/8 long, 5/8 high, and was about 2-1/8 wide at the top surface, and 1/1/2 wide at the bottom. This block was discontinued and replaced with the T-1921 block as used at the rear of the running board.
Rear Fender-Running Board Block
T-1921 (Part number 4822). Made of scrap pine, this block measured 7-7/8 long, 9/16 high, and was 2-1/8 wide at the top surface, and 1/1/2 wide at the bottom. The angle of the edge was 35 degrees 30 minutes.
FLOORBOARDS Part # Factory # Notes Floor Board Hinge —– 1043 Early 1909
Floor Board Hinge Screw —– 1044 Early 1909
Front Floor Board (First or top board) 1909 —– 1098 First 800 (2-pedal cars) 1909-1914 3626 1098B 9/16 x 7-1/4 x 29-5/8 1911 Torpedo 3706 2610 9/16 x 6-5/8 x 26-1/8 1915-1925 3626B 7296 3626C 4200 With pedal plate 3626C2 4200BR With pedal plate, for use with 1926 engine in earlier cars. Note: 1915 boards had a notch to clear the bulb horn tube, just to the right of the steering column. While unused by 1916, this notch continued for some time, at least into 1917. 1926-1927 45331X 45331 With plate
Front Floor Board (Second) 1909
First 800 (two-pedal cars) —– 1401 Left half —– 1092 Right half —– 1402 Both halves 1909-1914 3627 1402B 9/16×5-21/32×29-5/8 (1909) 1911 Torpedo 3707 2611 9/16 x 5-3/4 x 27-1/4 1915-1925 3626B 7297 3627C 4201 With pedal plate 3627C2 4201BR With pedal plate, for use with 1926 engine in earlier cars. 1926-1927 45332X 45332 With plate
Front Floor Board (Third) 1909
First 800 (two-pedal cars) —– 1404 1909-1912 3628 1404B 9/16 x 11-5/8 x 29-5/8 1911 Torpedo 3708 2612 9/16 x 11-7/16 x 29-3/16 1913-1925 3628 1404 or 1404B (Specify size) 3628B 7104 With plate 1926-1927 45332X 45332 With plate
Front Floor Board (Fourth) 1909
First 800 (two-pedal cars) —– 1403 1909-1912 3629 1403B 9/16 x 3-15/16 x 29-5/8 1911 Torpedo 3709 2613 9/16 x 5-3/8 x 29-9/16 1913-1914 3629 1403 Specify size
Front Floor Board (Fifth) 1911 Torpedo 3710 2629 9/16 x 5-3/8 x 30 Note: Judging from original cars, it appears that floor boards were often not painted. The author has new old stock front and rear boards which have never been painted, although they may have been coated with some sort of preservative. Owners of original cars find that some are painted black and others are bare. Pedal and brake lever plates were brass until early 1911, at which time they were changed to black-painted steel.
Note: The size and pattern of the floor mats evolved to suit the body. In addition, many front mats were embossed on both sides so that the same mat could be used on right or left hand drive cars. Closed cars used a wool mat, front and rear.
Off-white rubber in front; wool carpet in rear of tourings. White rubber mat on rear of mother-in-law seat roadsters.
Off-white rubber in front; cocoa mat in rear of tourings.
Black rubber front mat; cocoa mat in rear of tourings.
Black rubber front mat; wool mat in rear of tourings.
Black rubber front and rear of tourings.
Style with one-piece spindles. Tie rod above the wishbone, with integral ball/yoke fitting on right end, and adjustment yoke at the left end. The locking bolt of the adjustment yoke is at right angles to the steering arm bolt (was in a horizontal position as installed on the car). The drag link was threaded at the column end with a fine (20 T.P.I.) thread. No oilers on most 1909 production tie rods, etc. Radius rod ball cap secured with studs and nut in early 1909, then with a bolt from 1909 until 1913. Drag link and radius rod used pressed-steel end caps. In November 1909 the front axles were to have the notches in the yoke removed. These notches were there to provide clearance for the steering arm, but apparently were not needed.
1911 On January 31 (#36,972) the new axle with the two-piece spindles appeared. The tie rod now was below the wishbone. The steering drag link was threaded at the column end with a coarse thread (13 T.P.I.). Brass oilers on all joints except the drag link.
1911-1912 Same as later 1911. The steering arm with the hole for the speedometer, introduced in August 1911, was standard. Radius rod and drag link caps changed to forged type sometime during this era.
1913-1914 Steering drag link had integral ball sockets riveted and braced in place at each end. During 1913 the radius rod ball was secured with two studs, springs, and nuts, replacing the bolts used since 1909. In addition the cap was made a bit stronger by adding reinforcing ribs to the ears through which the retaining studs passed. The steering tie rod adjusting yoke now had its locking bolt parallel to the spindle arm bolt (vertical as installed on the car).
1915-1917 Similar to 1914 but the right steering arm no longer had the hole for the speedometer gear assembly. Oilers evolved from the brass type to the pressed metal type.
1918 The drag link now had integral forged ends, replacing the riveted-brazed type used since 1913. The steering tie rod was changed to the type with the integral left socket; the adjustment was now at the right end and was locked by the ball nut.
1919-1920 The front radius rod now fastened below the axle at the spring perch studs. Steering arms modified so that the tie rod now was above the wishbone. Oilers were all of the flip-top type. Spindles made a bit longer to better accommodate the new Timken roller wheel bearings.
Similar to 1920 but mounting holes in the radius rod now bored to fit a tapered nut for a tighter grip at the front axle.
Early 1922 Parts Lists show spindles with integral arms (one piece). These were described in a letter to the branches dated February 2, 1922:
T280C Spindle assembly, R
T281C Spindle assembly, L
Starting Feb 6th we will begin making shipments of the above assemblies. The T-280C will eliminate the use of T280B spindle body, T7715B spindle arm, T77 nut, and T82 cotter. The T281C will eliminate the use of T281B spindle body, T7716B spindle arm, T77 nut, and T82 cotter. For some time you will receive both types… We will advise when full production will be new style.
Then on another letter, dated May 17, 1922, the following
We have temporarily discontinued the manufacture of T278D and T279D, spindle assembly right and left. Therefore do not order any more until you are notified to do so. The above assemblies may be replaced with the T280 and T281 spindle bodies and the T7715B and T7716B arms.
(T280 and T281 are spindles without the bearing cones, T278 and T279 are the same parts with the bearing cones. The one-piece type were never used again in a Model T.)
1926-1927 Similar to 1925 but spindles are higher on the spindle body to lower the chassis. New steering drag link which is about an inch shorter than the previous type. In late 1926 the axle was modified and now had a droop or sag between the perches.
FRONT AXLE COMMENTS By Trent Boggess
Trent Boggess and Ken Jones spent some time going over the releases and drawings for the front axle. Sadly, the information was very sketchy, mainly because only two drawings for the early one piece spindle front axle appear to have survived. Both were dated post 1911. The releases for the early axle are there, but confusing; they seem to contradict the most frequently observed characteristics.
Two tidbits did come out of the front axle releases. First, trademarks in the forgings: one of the most commonly observed trademarks is TW in a diamond or circle. This is Transue & Williams. The second trademark is an H which stands for Herbrand. Technically, the axles produced by these two companies should be distinguishable. In Sept. 1920 Ford introduced a new design axle forging which was straight between the two spring perch bosses. The older design is curved between the two bosses. The older curved design was designated T-202-B1 and was made by Herbrand. Transue & Williams and Ford made the straight design which was designated T-202-B2. (The curved design referred to here is not the same as the late 1926 and 1927 where the middle of the top of the axle is about 1/2 lower, and presents a definite distinguishable curve between the perches, than on older designs.)
The other thing that came out in reviewing the axle drawings relates to the so-called 1927 truck front axle. (That’s what some people call it, because it is heavier than the standard T axle.) The most distinguishing feature is the shape of the web outbound from the spring perch to the yoke. The area of this web is much more rectangular in shape. That is, the height of the web area does not diminish or taper down towards the yoke. This is what gives this axle the heavier appearance.
We found a drawing with this style web area between the spring perch boss and the yoke labeled Three-Piece Rolled design. The drawing indicates that the axle was made up out of three distinct pieces which were butt welded together. The drawing indicates that a butt weld was made in about the middle of this web between the spring perch boss and the yoke. This may have been an experimental design, but these have been seen out there in the world. The experimental department was definitely alive and well in 1926 and 1927.
SPINDLE BOLTS The releases indicate the design was first adopted on October 16, 1907. This was a simple bolt with a screw-slot head, and with no provision for an oiler. On December 28, 1909 a note reads changed number to T-216-A, also changed thickness of head from .185 to 5/16, also flatten the head, making the distance across flats 5/8. Changed length overall 2-7/16 to 2-9/16.
Unfortunately no drawings of this part dated before May 25, 1910 have survived, but it seems as if they are changing from the slotted head design to a hex head design on this date (the 5/25/10 drawing shows a hex head).
On January 3, 1910 the thickness of the head was increased from 5/16 to 7/16, changing the overall length by 1/8. Four days later, on 1/7/10, they changed the thickness of the head back again to 5/16.
On July 11, 1911 they added a 1/8 pipe tap in the head for an oiler, also an 1/8 hole 1 deep, and an 1/8 hole on side of body for oiling purposes. This suggests that before July, 1911, there was a hex head bolt but it wasn’t drilled for an oiler.
Things continue pretty much the same until August 27, 1914 when they removed the pipe threads from top end, and called for a boss to be used for oil cap. This cap was of the man-hole type, held with a small spring extending into the bolt.
The boss disappears from the drawings after January 6, 1916, but there is no indication of its removal from the releases.
The only other noteworthy item is that the design changed from an automatic screw machine design to a cold heading design on February 8, 1917. The drilled vertical oil hole was increased to 3/16 This change being made to avoid breakage of drills.
Ford script first appears on one of the flats of the hex on March 19, 1919. The Ford script was moved to the crown of the bolt on June 14, 1919 which allowed the script to be imprinted by the cold-heading die, eliminating the extra step required before.
On August 7, 1919, the head was machined to take the press-in flip-top oiler. This design continued until the end of Model T production.
The tie rod bolts generally followed the design changes of the spindle bolts, changes being made in both at about the same time.
Also see section under Oilers.
1909-1911 Cylindrical with sediment bulb at right end. Brackets were an integral (riveted in place) part of the tank. Sediment bulb was riveted in place after the early 1909 production (which screwed in).
1911-1912 Same design as earlier 1911 but sediment bulb moved to center of tank, over the driveshaft. Sediment bulb was brass and screwed into the tank.
1912-1915 Brackets now separate and clamp around tank. Drain now right of center, between the frame and driveshaft. Sediment bulb was brass. 1915 sedan used rectangular tank under rear seat. Coupelet used the standard tank under the seat.
1916-1920 Same as 1915 type but sediment bulb was now iron. Sedans used square tank with sloping top, under driver’s seat. The Coupelet used the standard round tank under the seat until about 1918, then the round tank was moved to the rear compartment. Around 1919 the Coupelet tank was replaced with the square sedan tank, but still located in the rear compartment.
1920-1925 Oval-shaped tank replaced round type. Construction was similar to previous tank except for oval cross-section. Two door sedans and coupes continued the square tank, but oval tank was used in a number of coupes in late 1920, apparently as an experiment. All coupes of the 1924-25 style used the oval tank under the seat.
1926-1927 Tank now mounted under the cowl except for the Fordor Sedans in which it remained under the front seat. Trucks continued the oval tank under the seat.
FUEL TANK CAPS By Trent Boggess The first release was dated October 10, 1911. It indicated that the material to make the cap was being changed from brass to malleable iron. The drawing of the cap at this time indicated that it was a casting. The handle was formed by recessing the grip down into the base of the cap, with a small part of it extending above the top of the cap.
Two weeks later on October 24, 1911 the material was changed again, this time to cast iron with the specification that the cap be tinned. The design didn’t change, only the material.
On December 27, 1911 Galamb wrote Re-designed so that it can be used in connection with a filler gauge. No drawing with this date survives, furthermore, there is nothing in later entries indicating that the engineers should change the design back. Another mystery.
On February 3, 1912 the material changed again. This time from cast iron to aluminum. Same design, just a different material.
On February 21, 1912 they added a 1/16 bevel on the lower end of the cap to make it easier to screw into the threads of the tank.
On December 27, 1912 they changed the design slightly to make the cap a die casting where formerly it had been just a regular casting. The material was still aluminum.
On February 18, 1913 they changed it back to a regular casting, the material to remain aluminum.
On April 17, 1914 they moved the vent hole in the cap from the center to 15/32 from the center. (for convenience in manufacturing).
A big change came on November 2, 1915. The material was changed back to cast iron and the engineers specified that the cap was to be Raven Finished, except on the bottom of the cap.
Rust appears to have been a problem on these caps. The factory specified that the cap was to be machined in sal-soda solution which would counteract the action of the acid used in Raven Finish and which rusted the caps very quickly.
On December 20, 1916 specified use on 1917 cars, except sedan.
On January 17, 1918 the cap was redesigned, changing from cast iron design to a die casting. The new design was hollow at the point where the grip meets the rim of the cap.
On January 20, 1920 the flange of the cap was specified to be shaped at an angle of 20 degrees up from the horizontal instead of being flat. This was to improve the seal between the cap and the flange.
A strange entry appears on September 22, 1920. Coupe body, one required with cloth trimming.
On October 12, 1920 the note was changed from Coupe body, one required with cloth trimming, to 1921 Coupe body having gasoline tank in deck. This change was made in as much as change in trimming will not take effect together with the change in gasoline tank.
On March 28, 1924 the name FORD in script and the manufacturers trademark was added on one side of the grip. (as nearly as we can tell, the cap was always made by outside suppliers).
On February 6, 1925 the old style cap was replaced with the later domed style having the grip extend over and out past the edges of the rim. This cap was now an assembly instead of a single piece. The assembly included the cap body, T-1313, the bottom which was pressed into place, T-1302 and the gasket, T-1306. So far as we can determine from the surviving drawings, this cap did not have the word FORD in script on it.
TORPEDO TANK CAPS T-2315 was the factory number for the Torpedo gasoline tank cap. The design was adopted on November 5, 1910.
On January 9, 1911 the material was changed from brass to malleable iron the finish was changed from polished (brass) to blue enamel.
On January 19, 1911 the 1/16 vent hole was removed from the side of the cap as well as the 3/16 hole (?) and a boss was added in the center of the cap for a 1/16 vent hole.
On October 24, 1911 the material was changed from malleable iron to cast iron. The release specifies that the cap was to be used on both the open runabout and torpedo.
On February 3, 1912 the material was changed again, this time from cast iron to aluminum. There may also have been some slight change in the shape of the cap on this date as well because the release describes some changes in thickness of the cap and the radius on the handles.
Although not used after 1912, the cap was not considered obsolete until December 5, 1921.
HOOD 1909 Initially steel, with no louvers. Hinges were integral with the panels in early 1909. Later production hood hinges were separate, shorter, and riveted to the panels, which were now aluminum. The hood former in all 1909 and 1910 production had a notch to clear the original hinge rod and this notch continued until about 1911.
1910 Aluminum, with no louvers. Clamps were forged with one ear. Clash strip was wood, painted body color.
1911 Similar in style to the late 1910. Aluminum handles, riveted in place.
1912 Same as 1911. Hold-down clamps now had two ears.
1913-1914 Similar to 1912. Handles changed to iron, riveted in place.
1915-1916 Similar to 1914 but now with side louvers. Made of steel in later 1915 and 1916.
1917-1920 New style with design to match the all black look. Hood handles were pressed steel, riveted in place. Hood clash strip changed from wood to steel.
1920-1923 In July 1920 the handle design eliminated the rivets by using an extrusion of the handle as a rivet.
1923-1925 Similar to 1917 style but larger to match new higher radiator and body cowl. Hood clash strip larger and swept outward at the rear.
1926-1927 All new styling but of similar construction to 1925
EVOLUTION OF THE BRASS-ERA HOOD
By Trent Boggess
From the releases for the brass era hood assembly, T-1300.
On October 12, 1909: Changed length of last jt. [joint] on side hinge from 2 to .75 on front end and from 2-3/16 to .75 on rear end.
On Aug. 17, 1911: Removed rivets holding leather strips in place, and submitted V punch in its place, shown on drawing.
Apparently they experimented with a steel hood during the summer of 1913. On June 20, 1913 Galamb wrote: Have redesigned this hood, changing material from aluminum to CR Steel… Removed hinge flanges and rivets for same, also removed hood gasket retainers, specifying gaskets to be attached to hood by split rivets after hood is enameled. Have also shown the hood handle fastened to hood by six rivets instead of four.
Five weeks later on July 28, 1913 Galamb wrote again: Have changed the drawing to show the aluminum design of hood which was specified before the change to CR Steel design—by showing gaskets as made of leather instead of cotton, and held to the hood by retaining strips instead of split rivets. Have also brought drawing up to date with the hoods as they have been and are now being made by dividing the rear joint on the side hinges, making one lug .75 long on the top blanks, and one lug 1-7/16 long on the side blank. Have also changed the hood by dividing the rear joint in the center hinge, making one lug 7/8 long on the top blank left, and one lug 1-7/16 long on the top blank-right. This change was made to keep the rear end of the top blank-left from being bent, and have so notified the Alum. Co. of America.
The next change is dated Jan. 26, 1914 and is interesting not so much for the change itself, but for Degner’s explanation for the reason for the change. Added dimensions specifying distance between the tops and sides at the ends of side hinges to be 3/64–1/16. Also added dimension specifying the distance between the outside of metal which is wrapped around the center hinge rod and the bottom of notch in opposite side to be 1/64–1/32. The first part of change was made because the people who make these hoods are inclined to be careless about providing clearance between the edges of tops and sides of hoods at the ends of side hinges, consequently sometimes the side hinges do not work as freely as they should. The second change was made because when the clearance in the center hinge is not sufficient the sharp edges of the metal scrape the paint off the side of the hinge, when opening and shutting.
The hood was redesigned in Oct. 1914 for the 1915 models. On Oct. 14, 1914 Galamb wrote: Called for six louvers in each side and specified this hood to be used on 1915 cars. On Oct. 21, 1914 he added: added two reinforcements on each side at bottom. Distance between reinforcements to be 17-5/8, and the distance between the front end of hood and the front reinforcement to be 1-9/16. These reinforcements are to be incorporated in the hood at once.
The next change took place on July 21, 1915. Called for head at front end. Changed material from aluminum to full cold rolled open hearth steel. Brought drawing up to date with hoods as they are being made by specifying the pad at rear end to come flush with rear end of hood instead of projecting 1/16. These changes affect only the hoods which are being made on the outside at the present time.
Four days later, on July 24, 1915 Galamb wrote: We have called for a 3/32x3/64 groove located 1 from front end of hood hinge rod center, and added note specifying the metal in hood panel to be punched into this groove. This change was made to prevent the hood hinge rod from sliding out of the hoods, and is to be incorporated at once in the steel hoods which are being made outside at the present time.
The releases change this part’s status to For Repairs Only on September 20, 1916.
HOOD CLIPS T-1310 hood clip. The single ear design was adopted on Feb. 7, 1908 and appears to have remained substantially the same for the entire time period that it was in use. The modified the tolerances for the stem diameter slightly on Sept. 23, 1909 and again on May 9, 1910, and changed the size of the hole for the cotter pin from a #29 to a 9/64 on 8-3-10.
On June 27, 1911 the clip was redesigned. Galamb wrote Have made two hooks for clamping Hood instead of one, making one on each side. Also changed distance between the center of ring to end of shank, from 3-3/16 to 3-1/16, also changed section of ring, from .25 diameter to elliptical section .25 to 5/32, also note that bottom of Hooks are flat instead of round.
The design was modified two days later on June 29, 1911 by Howard who wrote: Changed width of Ring from .25 straight to 3/8 at top, tapering .25 at bottom, also changed width of hooks, from .25 to 5/16, also changed thickness at top of Ring from 5.32 to 1/8.
No other change in the design seems to have occurred for almost five years. Then on May 18, 1916 Martin wrote Changed name from hood clip, and material from drop forging to cast iron head, with steel stem cast in place. This obsoletes the forging.
The next entry on the card reads Specified for repairs only, authorized by Purdie. This is a typo error since the release card shows that the part was used through the end of 1926. Furthermore James Purdie was in the magneto and experimental departments. Hood hooks would have been well outside of his area of responsibility.
On April 16, 1917 a T-1310 Exp. Mfg. Design was introduced. This appears to have been the stamped steel style of clip. The note reads Production at first to be small, and gradually increased until this design of hood clip will replace the present design.
Three months later on July 26, 1917 Gregory wrote: Redesigned, showing the stamping design which has been manufactured experimentally, and is now adopted permanently. This part replaces T-7993 and T7596 (the stem and head casting of the previous design).
On Dec. 4, 1917 the clip was redesigned again, bringing the drawings up to date with clips as they are being made.
Essentially, the hooks remained the same until they were discontinued on Dec. 2, 1926 and replaced with a new design.
HOOD FORMER The hood support (hood former) on the brass era cars is T-1334. There are a few notable changes in this part. On Nov. 26, 1909 Howard wrote: We have added flange on hood ledge at point market A. This takes effect after 15,000 cars. Then on June 23, 1910 (the release states 6-23-15 but this is obviously an error) Howard wrote: Removed pocket for steering flange nuts and hood hinges. One more entry of note, on Sept. 30, 1912 Howard again wrote: Specified that the countersink for screw heads to be a punching operation. I believe this allows us to distinguish between 1910-12 and 1913-14 formers by the holes for the wood screws that attach the former to the dash. The earlier holes are countersunk; the later ones are simply punched.
HOOD HANDLES The hood handle (on hood) was T-1314. For some reason the first entry is dated July 22, 1911, so we have no information on changes that may have occurred before that. Even then it is confusing. Here is what Galamb wrote: Changed from Malleable Iron Casting to Pressed Steel #13 BW Ga. FHD wrote Keim under date of Oct. 19 send B/P [Blue Print] revised under date of Oct. 11th. Owing to the fact that length of foot and inside dimension of handle when added together equals only 5-3/8 instead of 5-1/2 as specified for overall length. We have changed length of feet from 1-1/8 to 1-3/16, in order to make dimensions check up.
On June 11, 1913 Galamb wrote: Redesigned and changed material from pressed steel to aluminum casting. A few days later on June 30, 1913 the number of rivet holes was changed from six to four.
The pressed steel handle was again adopted on July 13, 1915.
On Jan. 19, 1917 Galamb again played catch up by writing: Redesigned, bringing the drawing up to date with the handles as they are being made.
HORN 1909-1911 Rubes or Non-Pareil double-twist. By 1911 the hose connection pointed down at an angle so that the hose did not interfere with the door opening.
1912 Rubes or Non-Pareil double or single-twist. Late production used some 1913 styles.
1913-1914 Rubes or Non-Pareil single-twist. Now made of steel with brass trim.
1915 Early production used the bulb horn, mounted under the hood. This was superseded by a magneto-powered horn, with a brass-trimmed bell, beginning on some production in January 1915. Both horns mounted under the hood by the steering column. The magneto horns were manufactured by Bridgeport Brass initially, then by Heinze and Clum. All electric, with no brass trim, by October 1915.
1916-19221 Magneto horn standard on all cars. Mounted on firewall near steering column.
1922-1925 Electric vibrator-type horn used on cars with battery. Magneto type continued on non-electric cars. Both types mounted on left side of the engine.
1926-1927 Same horn as 1925 but with new bracket to mount on water inlet, below the coil box. Magneto type used in non-electric 1926 cars.
HUB CAPS (See WHEEL, Hub Caps)
© Bruce W. McCalley. Rev. February 7, 2007