MTFCA Forum

In case anyone’s interested here’s two examples of iron hogsheads that originally had non-demountable bands and where they had to be ground to eliminate interference when switching over to using quick-change bands. These are the “usual spots” and it depends on where those cores ended up. 7A69248B-60...

Joe, I do believe there is a potential support issue on the aluminum hogsheads and I don’t cut the low shaft on them either. Also, many of the demountable bands will have interference issues inside the aluminum hogshead on the left side and you are generally better off using non-demountable bands be...

The Thieman unit is really nice. If it’s like the ones I have, there is a Timken roller bearing and sleeve inside.

Thanks for all input. The next question. Are all distributors selling gears made by the same people? I’m leaning toward aluminum. Are they all made by the same manufacturer? My crank gear seems to be in good condition as the fiber gear didn’t wear it (there’s one good thing about fiber). Should I c...

The top two pictures in Franks post above are actually kits that were manufactured by Theiman Harvester Company of Albert City Iowa. The pulley in Caffin’s first post (the one that isn’t sold yet does appear to be the factory made pulley for the Theiman setup. I recognized it because I have two of t...

I talked to Andy a couple weeks ago and look forward to trying his gaskets too.

Robert, Looking closely at your photo of your gasket, the material looks slightly different than the ones I’ve had issues with, so I’m thinking this might be an occasional issue from more than one manufacturer?

For what it’s worth, several years ago a friend of mine had one and said he used T brake shoes on the rear. He claimed they were the same.

Robert, That is an occasional issue with some pan rail and trans cover gaskets from one of the sources that manufacturers them. I’ve noticed it off and on for maybe about the last five years. I think what happens is maybe the gasket material isn’t perfectly flat when the gasket is stamped out. Soaki...

Might be 45 here tomorrow. Planning a 50 mile drive in the TT tomorrow. Bet it’s warm enough to disconnect the heater or open the windows...

I have one of the style in Mark’s photo too. They were used in non-electric cars that had provisions for a starter and were installed in place of the ammeter in the regular switch panel. I wonder if it is nearly the same if you take it out of that housing that blocks out the ammeter???

Dan M, The “off the shelf” Sunnen hone isn’t long enough according to the Sunnen”book”, but it does work fine (just barely).

If it indeed was something noticeable with different grades of gas, you probably have more going on there than just “a problem with cheap gas”. Back when E-85 was really cheap, myself and a couple friends would use it in our T’s. It ran pretty much the same as anything else except I had to open up t...

My experience using the parking brakes to stop the car on flat ground was dismal at best. At 20 MPH with clean lined adjusted small drum shoes, it slowed down but never really stopped, maybe given enough distance it would have. Could not get enough leverage on the handle to be effective let alone l...

Many of the valves on the explosion whistles don’t seal that great and need some work so they don’t leak compression.

This was mentioned here and I’ve heard too many people say it : “They are parking brakes not stopping brakes” I STRONGLY DISAGREE!!! The rear brakes are EMERGENCY BRAKES and highly important. If any of the multiple parts in the drive line between the rivet on the brake pedal shaft and the rear wheel...

If it’s actually a ‘27 axle, they are typically quite a bit harder and odds are you might just end up breaking the tapered reamer. They can be kind of dicey to use the Stevens tooling on unless you are quite experienced. My recommendation would be to find a better axle.

I believe that’s a ‘10-‘12 handle & pin in your picture.

The sleeve in my picture is ‘14-‘22. The late ‘12-‘14 sleeves are aluminum. I believe all the late ‘12-‘22 pins should be interchangeable.

Here’s another one I had that I sold back in November. Also like your picture.

Darn good question. I just looked at my very original ‘13 and it has the longer style like in your picture. So does a very nice original ‘14 column in my parts stash. But, check out the hole location... Maybe just manufacturing variance? The other later ones aren't quite centered either. I didn’t se...

I finally got to my swap meet bins and dug them out. Here they are. I’d take $50 for a NOS pin and sleeve. Let me know. A pin only would be $20.

Did you find any yet? Dug thru my swap meet stuff and found these. $8 ea. Only the one that is sideways is the “bent style”.

By “close style setup”, I imagine you mean “pre-‘26 narrow style pedal? There are 4 styles: Lettered (pre-‘15). Ribbed (‘15). Plain for non-starter hogshead (‘16-‘19). Plain for hogshead with starter provision (‘19-‘25). If you have provisions for a starter, you need to use the ‘19-‘25 low pedal or ...

Adam wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 06, 2021 1:19 pm
That is an UNUSUAL number stamping set in that Ford Service bulletin...

So far, nobody has figured it out...

I generally have the straight ones. $8. Let me know if you are interested. Email only, no PM’s please. They are stored away in the bins with the rest of my swap meet stuff. Since I’d be digging anyways, I could see what ends are on the NOS crank pins I mentioned a couple weeks ago and you could have...

Is the “Motor Flush” less expensive than the same amount of cheap motor oil?

How can you tell what sort of job it does? Did you open up your engine and look?

The vendors price is less than good used ones used to fetch before they started reproducing them.

That is a manhole cover style oiler that is missing its lid. Just replace it with a small pipe plug. You should remove, clean, and re-oil your timer for regular maintenance every 80-120 miles for best operation anyway. No need to add any oil between those intervals.

TT 23” rims are split rims.

TT 20” rims are solid rims with a removable lock ring.

Bob, You should have them transferred to DVD and sell the copies. I would bet the copyright is expired.

I haven’t seen how all the repro rims out there fit on all the original felloes, but I can say that the ones I have seen didn’t seem to fit quite as well as all original parts. I do have to say that the McLaren plain rims used for non-demountables and wire wheels seem to be quite satisfactory. With ...

Brazing and Soldering are very important skills and are a good basic foundation before “advancing” to welding. Welding is a good skill to have for body repair work and maybe even some pan repairs, but I think the most useful and most overlooked skills to have for everything else on the T is brazing ...

Exactly what Larry said! This is something you WILL have to buy new or make. 99% of Used ones will be broken when removed. The other 1% may fail in use. It’s sort of like looking for “good used” babbitt thrust washers...

Wow! Never knew anyone reproduced that AND I’m very surprised it is only $25! I’m replacing the tank in a ‘27 Tudor next month and will be ordering one!

What parts does Larry Smith produce?

I put a drain plug in every axle I rebuild and recommend changing the axle oil every season. I believe it makes a huge difference in the longevity of the rear axle components. The drain is in the right side housing at the lowest point.

I’d never use them. They are potential troublemakers. The tab that’s welded to the nut breaks off. Seen it twice in person and heard about it from others as well. If you are using Kevlar bands, there is no reason to add anything that makes adjustment more convenient. Unless you are a lousy T driver,...

Would the other folks who were interested in this please contact me? This is now available to purchase due to a non-paying buyer.

We use ours quite often and it works fine. Only buy the one that is all stainless steel. You can cook right in it and just toss it in the dishwasher when you get home. It cooks more like a slow cooker and really only works well with things that have lots of liquid. Driving time to actually cook some...

WOW! Thats a big crack in an unusual place. In one of the photos it looks like there might already be a sleeve in the cylinder. Can you verify? Can you see the crack extending down into the cylinder itself? If there is a sleeve in that cylinder, then the water is likely leaking to the outside of the...

Dan Hatch wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 10, 2021 8:18 am
Was told that if you had spaces last year they will be good for this year. Is that still the case? Dan

That’s what I was told too, but I haven’t received anything in the mail or been contacted in any way yet and it is only 5 weeks away...

Post some pictures of the crack. If its a crack between a bolt hole and water passage, it might not be a big deal. A considerable amount of water can be found in crankcase oil of cars that haven’t run for a long time and it can be condensation, not necessarily leaks.

Maybe assembled at a branch plant?

This is kind of a case where the vendors catalog might not give all the information it needs to AND/OR the glass shop just gives you what you ask for... The new channels are made for original 1/4” thick plate glass. The laminated safety glass you get made at the glass shop is called “quarter inch” b...

Yup, that’s one of the “usual” cracks. You have three choices: -Fix it with JB Weld & keep your fingers crossed. Sometimes it can be a pretty good long term repair if you do it just right. -Have it professionally pinned or welded, which will exceed the value of the block. -Find a good replacement bl...

I’ll have to look in the shop later, but I’m pretty sure I have a couple extra blueprint style wiring diagrams for the Gray & Davis electrical system for the Ford T. $20. Email if you’re interested in those and/or the starter.

I’ve got a starter if anyone needs one. It turned when hooked to a battery a couple years ago. $100 plus shipping. Why so cheap? Because it is rare! A very hard to find item if you are looking for one, but also hard to sell because there aren’t a bunch of people looking for them... And tons of this ...

i've install the e-timer. but cannot fully advance it because it comes up against the fan belt. What might be the cause? If your car has the ‘26-‘27 fan that hangs from the water outlet, then the “usual” cause is that the fan was rotated the wrong direction to tension the fan belt. The correct dire...

15,068,275 was a November 1927 engine. It would have been a factory built complete engine made after T car production for replacement or some other use.

I believe complete engines were numbered, but bare blocks and complete short blocks were not numbered.

If you decide to drill and/or bust out the cap or whatever you do, it probably will be much easier if you just remove the tank from the car. ‘26-‘27 coupe & tudor tanks are easy to remove & reinstall (so long as you can get the sediment bulb off). It’s probably only a 15 minute job to remove that ta...

$2,000 and lots of parts missing...

That is an UNUSUAL number stamping set in that Ford Service bulletin...

Adam, the exhaust large brass nut that secures the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold fits the bill, but I seriously doubt that hot glue will hold. It is a good idea though, only use the strongest two part epoxy you can find. 5CFDDC20-AF5C-478A-AFAF-F3BDA7A28E81.jpeg Hot glue is easy to remove. T...

“Ford USA” seems to be a usual marking at that location on un-numbered “improved car” blocks. I believe complete engines were numbered until the end of production, but not replacement blocks. Here’s one for sale at Hershey a couple years ago. 632B7B5E-04CD-4B3C-898D-8315753C68CF.jpeg 9D6A8FD3-9499-4...

Grind it smooth and Magnaflux it. Might be a surface defect. Can you see it in the roof of the valve gallery? ‘26-‘27 blocks commonly crack in the roof of the valve gallery, sometimes before anywhere else and it’s usually not a cost effective area to repair.

Every repro low pedal cam & notch I’ve installed needed an hour of careful fitting and grinding to make the ramps fit well and have correct free-play.

Clean it off real good and hot-glue a very large nut to it. Try to find a nut nearly the size of the cap. Use an impact tool.

I have several of the handle rivets that are nos.

All ‘13’s had double stack field coils. Most I’ve seen are what Joe mentioned. What’s in there now might not be original. How thick are your magnets? I think the change from 5/8” to 3/4” magnets was late ‘12 or early ‘13.. If you have 3/4” magnets, then the earlier tin field coil wont work. If you h...

I’ve run into something similar twice in the last 18 years that was not an adjustment issue, but something a previous “restorer” caused... There is a lot of advice out there about building pedal cams up with braze to remove all the free-play and repair wear. Some people don’t realize that it IS desi...

That article isn’t new, it’s been around quite a while. It’s just “click bait” to get you to look at advertisements. The author of that article is ignorant in regards to its subject matter. He obviously doesn’t understand the HUGE DIFFERENCE between advertised price and/or “big talkers” at car shows...

This is a really good price for what it seems to be.

This should also work just fine on a starter equipped car: All you have to do is replace the choke lever & shaft assembly with the later style. It takes less than a minute to do.

From looking at your pictures, it is unlikely that it is re-ground. If it has been re-ground, then odds are very good that it was done to a high quality standard, but you are very unlikely to find one of those in an unknown, used motor. Most re-ground cams are not done to a very high quality standar...

this puller if for pulling the Bendix head, not the Bendix, handy tool, Bob Yes, Bob Is Correct ! However, the entire assembly (Bendix, spring, head) typically is referred to generically as “bendix”. That is exactly what I provide customers when I rebuild a bendix. Maybe I should have clarified tha...

Art, Normally it should not be required. The bendix is supposed to slip on and off the starter shaft. The puller is needed when something isn’t quite right that causes the bendix to stick a bit. Usually this is due to burrs that have raised up around the keyway or the set screw or damage from broken...

Post a picture

Also, it is important to know that there have been batches of hubcaps made with slightly undersize threads that are going to be extremely stiff fit even on even very good threads.

Depends on your terminology. The one on the left has a washer face on the bottom by modern terms. D0E50B81-D853-41DB-A2BF-4D05D1D5E5C7.jpeg But all of these that have a chamfer on the top and are just flat on the bottom could be considered to have a “washer face” too. 5DD9AAF0-7DB4-4B12-A3AB-4232FF0...

I would sure like it if the museum would scan every one of these into high quality searchable pdfs and sell the complete set.

Square? Hex? Hex size? How thick?

As fussy as you are Larry, you are leaving a lot of details out...

Here’s one that’s just about to be finished by a raven:

Most original Ford ones are a thin layer of babbitt over a steel sleeve.

I’m curious why you want a babbitt one and don’t want to use bronze? Have you had some problems with a bronze one?

Here’s a photo of a typical T block ready for new seats. There is generally no concern for thinning of the block.

Tim, Those look familiar to me. I might have some. If you are interested at $10 each, shoot me an email and I’ll start digging to see what I have.

Interesting conversation about the cracks from the rivets to the gear that you often see on reverse drums.. I had a conversation about 20 years ago with one of our popular vendors whose family has been dealing in T parts for a very long time. His Dad had a friend who worked at a branch plant or some...

I use a piece of 1/4” copper tubing with about a 1.5” radius 180 degree bend at the end. I have an old hood release cable (1/16” wire rope) that is frayed a bit on the end. The cable is inserted into the copper and then the copper tube can be held to line up with the front end of the oil line so the...

You very likely would be best off sending what you have somewhere to be rebuilt. The block should be replaced. Average price range for a good useable’26-‘27 bare block is $250-$400. Price on rebuilding your complete engine and transmission as well as replacing that block will run in the multiple tho...

Started getting a lot of oil in cylinder 4, so I'm going to change the piston rings. Oftentimes a lot of oil in a cylinder can also be due to worn valve stems and guides. If there is excessive clearance on the intake valve stem, there can be quite a bit of extra oil drawn into the cylinder from the...

Likely a slightly bent or twisted rod. The re-babbitted rods from the major vendors do need to be checked for alignment and often require adjustment before installation. A minor bend or twist will likely be quiet at first and show up sometime in the 1,000 to 2,500 mile range. A properly aligned rod,...

That fractured driven gear shaft is something that occurs just about only on the wide drum of the ‘26-‘27 engines and is a result of slight alignment issues between the crank and fourth main, combined with the fact that the ‘26-‘27 powerplant assembly is much more rigid due to the top of the hogshea...

Actually, the gap of each ring should be a bit larger than the one above it in order to properly relive pressure.

I do agree that the gaps in that chart are too tight.

That line needs a check-valve.

If you go looking for problems, you are very likely to find something you don’t like. Even though the pressure is very low to almost non-existent, what you have there are tubes that have been expanded far beyond the size they would ever be inside a tire. Does that fatigue the rubber or make it porou...

If the engine has a fiber timing gear, it might be that the cam nut is preventing the brush body from seating back against the shoulder on the cam. About 95% of the time, if a newly installed New Day Timer is rocking around it is caused by exactly what Dan stated. It will also tear the contact face...

That broken tooth obviously didn’t DESTROY your transmission. Frankly I can’t imagine having any better luck! Don’t drive it until it is properly repaired. There are so many variables where the transmission and triple gears are concerned that it can be very hard to reason out exactly what occurred. ...

If you bought one of the pulleys you can tighten up and you can’t get it tight on your crankshaft, then your crankshaft is really worn very badly.

There are TONS of nos parts out there that aren’t very good quality.

Anything specifically sold for cleaning cooling systems will likely be just fine to use. Avoid vinegar, muriatic acid, and products not meant for cooling systems.

And of course, look what they "gave" us last winter! :twisted: :evil: A virus could randomly become zoonotic anyplace in the world at any time. It’s as easy to understand as the Model T ignition system... I think that's a good comparison. Some people understand it, some don’t, some don’t care, some...

It looks like stop-leak to me. I bought a car a couple years ago that had some pretty nasty antifreeze in it with oily stuff floating on top. The top hose was hard, wrinkled, and shrunken, probably from whatever the oil was staying near the top when the engine was cool. The car had a newer radiator ...

I have a 1913 that I've owned for over 60 years. I started restoring it as a teenager, and put a copper gas line on it. It is still on the car today with over 57,000 miles. I've never had a problem with it. I Agree! I also have many thousands of miles on my T’s with copper fuel lines and have had z...

$295 will buy it. $15 will ship it anywhere in the continental USA. Please contact me by email only. Please don’t post here or use the pm system. First email in my inbox gets it. Thanks!

The taper and keyway is in good shape and not worn. The drum is a brand-new drum from McClaren that is currently not available from them and is on backorder at the vendors. The studs are all brand new and have been properly swedged in with the correct tooling on a hydraulic press. $225 will buy it a...

The originals are “spin-riveted” and isn’t something the average hobbyists has equipment for. I have used pop rivets from the back side and back up washers on the front. This works with the hard plastic insulators as well as the paper ones, although the paper insulators are not ideal.

Terry: That was quick! I couldn’t resist...

Get some chickens and keep them in your backyard. The eggs are free.

You have to run a ‘26/‘27 hogshead with a wide brake drum because the pedal shafts have different spacing. You can, however, use earlier pedals in the ‘26-‘27 hogshead. There may be some customization involved with the floorboards, or bending the pedals, but it depends on what combination you are tr...

Yes, now show it at about a 45 degree angle instead of straight on so I can see how deep the bushing is pressed in. I’m thinking that the bushing isn't pressed in far enough.

The paper insulating washers are insulating in two ways: As an insulator and also as a gap. There occasionally can be quite a bit of very fine metal suspended in T engine oil. That oil can wick into the coils and the paper spacers help to reduce leakage between coils and to ground. A pinhole in a ve...

Please post a picture of the bushing in the front end of the brake drum shaft.

Additional info that may help: In every transmission I assemble, the final “Test” I rely on is pressing the disc-drum onto the transmission shaft and leaving .018” clearance to the washers. I then use a dental mirror and a flashlight to look straight into the hole for the set-screw. If the threaded ...

Adam How do you tell if you have a correct 26/7 disk drum? By what I have in my shop notes: The early disc drum that is designed for use with the thinner “top hat” style bushing will generally either have NO Ford script on it anywhere, or it Will Have the Ford script on the Same Side as the machine...

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