MTFCA Forum

Snyders makes coil box replacement wood kits in a black plastic material. I’ve installed several, and run one myself. They work great.

An expandable mandrel works.

They have been shortened, but the ends look decent. Will be at Hershey. Green Field. Price negotiable. Email for my phone number.

$995. Includes a pair of excellent original rear body brackets that have never been rusty and have traces of original paint. Email for my phone number. 62DAB754-D48E-48A0-B677-FA67063A3262.jpeg 5E1C18AE-B447-4564-99EB-7B25037727BF.jpeg 229A8AF2-BDF0-4BD0-947A-EB79F323A1ED.jpeg D5D384BC-EEC7-4797-93C...

On a ‘26-‘27 “all steel body” (coupe or tudor); Use urethane caulk under the wood (wood to body, inside the “L” channel that holds the top wood). You want to seal the wood to the body so your headliner and panels don’t get wet in the rain or while washing the car. This is the same urethane that you ...

He did mic the rollers. The info is in the original post. Read it and offer an opinion...

Its a part of a hokey aftermarket vaporizer carburetor setup.

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5871

I was somehow under the impression that the new owners were relatives.

Real bummer that the auction is the week of Hershey.

I certainly don’t understand anybody's viewpoint that the people who buy stuff at auctions to resale are at all driving prices up for hobbyists. If you buy used parts for resale, you have to buy at much less than you sell at in order to cover expenses and have any money left over. Therefore, a re-se...

I’m pretty sure that would be a special size you would have to make with a belt binder. ‘27 Roadster with a water pump does usually take a 36” belt if everything is correct. You should have a large style engine pulley and the fan bracket should be on the upper water outlet. Also the direction you tu...

Ripon, WI

Steve, Here is the “frugal fix” for your broken top iron: Take it to your engine builder. Leave the splint on it. Have him putty up all the seams and the break with babbittrite. Pour the iron full of scrap babbitt. It will be very heavy.

It would be nice if a “page” was 50 posts instead of 100.

I have quite a few good usable outer wheel bearings. All have been ultrasonic cleaned so they are absolutely clean and ready to install. They are bearings that are free of chips & pits, and never have been rusty. $40 each. Please email if interested. I may not receive a p.m. and may not see a respon...

I also offered advice to stay at the Dearborn Inn...

Scrubbing wear on only one front tire is sometimes due to the opposite wheel being bent or having “runout”. Jack up your front wheels and give them a spin to see if one wobbles.

Art hit on something I almost forgot about because I haven’t dealt with in several years! I started babbitting and machining my own rods several years ago. I developed a procedure for blueprinting, re-machining, pre-straightening, and pre-matching rotating and reciprocating weights before babbitting...

Uh... This is a part with very limited application. These classifieds probably reach less than 1% of interested parties. Of the potential interested parties that do look here, they probably don’t look here every day, maybe not even every week (the ad is only 24 hours old). AND, unless people are a c...

All the repro pistons need to have their pin bores line-honed before assembly. THEY ARE NOT USABLE right out of the box with any certainty. The bores need to be honed a little larger than normal for that type of piston. Most times I set them up at .0008”. This is generally the size that will also br...

Something loose inside the engine being picked up by the flywheel?

There were some tubes several years ago that were made out of a material that would not bond to a standard patch.

Might need to call Snyders or Universal and have a tube FedEx’d.

Dan, Where did that chart come from?

They get into the valve gallery real easy... I’ve seen lots of mouse nests inside the valve gallery. They just walk right in... (1921-1926)

If it is the brush holder dragging inside the case, it may become a larger running problem in short order. Way before you get home. These things usually have a tendency to happen on a busy road, in the rain, shortly before dark & miles from camp. If you do have an issue, the easiest temporary remedy...

Steve, If you are using a New Day timer and the spark advance lever wants to creep up on its own, the likely cause is that the brush holder is too far forward and is dragging inside the timer case. This would also likely create an apparent ignition problem. This is caused by an incorrectly placed ca...

Stuck exhaust valves on cyl # 2 or 3 are many times caused by a mouse nest inside the valve cover... If so, you need to clean it out and properly free up the valves before you run it or the valves will burn.

The fact that it is marked “round tube” would lead me to think it was an early repro. Still, a real old one and if it looks like something from “back in the day”, it should fit in just fine in the parts room.

I have one on the bench here and made precision measurements with a telescope gauge and micrometer. The holes are 1.247” to 1.250”. If the target size is 1.250”, then these holes are .003” undersize. I wonder if that is outside of spec on the Ford print? Anyone have the print? I only use the origina...

I’ve installed 6 new reproduction exhaust manifolds this season and haven’t had any issues.

If the front of your pan is bent a bit, the ratchet will interfere with the thicker hub on the aluminum pulley.

I believe those are scurlock gears. Among other applications, they were typically recommended to be installed in snowmobiles, if not actually part of some of the kits.

I had an original New Day timer, brand new in its box, and the brush was a copper color. It seems to be lasting fairly well. The “new, correctly made” new day timers have a brass colored brush that seems to last fairly well too, but not quite as well as the 80+ year old originals. Before the “good n...

Application info might help you find one.

It looks like this float you need is for a STROMBERG OF carburetor. Am I correct?

That might be a pretty rare item to find outside of a complete carburetor.

Have you inquired with Stan Howe? He might be the most likely person to have one.

First $60 plus actual shipping gets it. Please email. I may not see a pm or response here. Please include your address so I can quote shipping. If you are inside the US, it will go in a flat rate envelope for $7.35. E5852705-AD50-41DC-B48B-72E6C4281E37.jpeg D6C68E7C-8ECA-4F2E-A843-A7A72F529A42.jpeg

Cams were made this way for a while around 1915. With the hole drilled all the way thru. No idea why.

Thanks to Jim Sr for pointing out that detail item. Hope that was really it. This is one of those things “so obvious it couldn’t possibly be the issue”. There are 3 different aprons from ‘23-‘27 that are not interchangeable and minor variations on each one, plus various repros. People often get them...

When the crank hole and screw below hole is aligned up, the 2 tabs that go over the radiator studs are about a 1/2" above the frame. I didn’t see that answered... Someone posted a diagram... There is NOTHING that goes between the frame rails and the apron tabs. If it looked like it was answered cor...

It should rest on top of the frame rails.

Have you changed the front crossmember?

The seal from Langs is supposed to go in the recess instead of the felt, not on the outside of the front.

I wonder how many of the people with “tube problems” are not using rim flaps???

It appears that you have the wrong spare tire carrier on your car.

I would say that “Pipou” is Ripon. Someone just couldn’t read the handwriting...

It’s straight and only in need of some minor work. There are no brackets with it. I may have a pair of nice original cast rear frame to body brackets available at additional cost if you need them, but I don’t have any other brackets. Has a couple extra holes that need filling. Has some scattered are...

Some grease squeezes forward into the transmission and engine. Modern grease does not mix readily with engine oil. Because the oil system is not pressurized, the grease has the ability to foul oil grooves and oil holes in the engine and transmission preventing proper lubrication. Grease also EASILY ...

I’ve repaired plenty of helicoils in T blocks... The problem with helicoils is always that the last guy that attempted to install it botched the job. On a T block, you typically find that the previous repairman didn’t take into account the first 4 or so turns of lead on the helicoil tap. The install...

Filling the ball full of grease and continually adding more grease is like taking a whole bottle of aspirin. More is not better...

And different for AA too...

Acid damage in the bottoms of the dips is very common. Sometimes the only thing sealing them up is dirt on the outside of the pan.

It’s one of the most interesting, unique T’s around.

Here is a picture of Gary Hylton’s Ames Touring that was posted on this forum in March.

That one is really interesting. Notice that the housing AND axle shaft is broken. The only way I could see that happening is if the housing was broken for some amount of time and then the axle shaft finally failed due to the flexing. There would have been oil leaking out (at least until the differen...

Some air chuck couplings can not be used with some inflation tools because they cause hugely incorrect pressure readings. Such is the case with most self clamping chucks when installed to Milton brand inflators with the built in gauge. If it isn't a gauge problem, then odds are there is an issue wit...

Check with all the coil rebuilders that advertise here and in the MTFCA & MTFCI. I’m sure there should be spares around. These are somewhat rare coils to find, but also somewhat rare to sell. I bought an excellent early ‘13 kw coil box with 4 excellent coils like these and a spare at the Iola, WI sw...

Solid windshield with stanchions ready for cleaning, painting, and glass. The glass has been removed for safety and to lower the shipping cost. All the brass glass mounting channels are present and included, but your glass shop will probably prefer to use urethane instead of the thin brass channels....

Looks like a pretty rough imitation of the Hamlin Special, which did race at Indianapolis.

Hold on! Hate to say it, but that really should be repaired! That sleeve needs to be a press fit on the driveshaft. It should never be able to move. At the very least, you may have to replace the drive shaft and that sleeve. Failure of the key, or proper mesh of the gears can result in sudden comple...

With the additional info in the above posts, here is one possibility: Maybe the pinion gear slipped backwards just far enough for the thrust ball ring to mis-align a bit in its races. This could be possible in an “excessive wear” situation. The pinion bearing could move back a bit if the differentia...

Old u joint may have been modified to fit.

...And check your torque wrench for accuracy on a regular basis. Many are way off, and get way off suddenly... Many times the torque wrench is to be blamed for stripped threads, stretched bolts, and split nuts.

Sounds like a mis-drilled new driveshaft. There was an issue for a little while with drive shaft pin holes being off 1/8” that was corrected a couple years ago.

A 1/16” radius certainly will not work with a correctly ground crank!

Long skinny carriage bolts that go thru the hood shelf, frame rails, splash pan with a lock washer and square nut on the bottom.

All kinds of parts were replaced on Model T’s back in the day. The frame was no exception. If the car was ever in an accident or overloaded that the frame got bent, then the frame may have been replaced. If this was done in 1925 and a new frame was installed, then it received a 1925 frame. The vehic...

Your original April 1 ad says $13,500 in the headline, then $22,000 in the text.

Then the April 26 “bump” says $13,500, make an offer?

Then your “bump” today (Aug 1) says; Any offers? $20,000?

It looks like a nice car. How much is it?

The finished diameter of the Ford T crankshaft is 1.248” to 1.249” according to the Ford Print.

Scat makes A, B, & T cranks from the same forging. You can have your cranks custom made to any size you wish, so long as the forging is big enough...

Altair, The pan in your picture is a ‘12-‘16 “3 dip” pan.

If its the same truck, it belonged to someone around Wales, Wisconsin about 25 years ago. Looks like the same one.

YES! THE REASON IS THE OIL PAN! The car has been in a front end crash in its lifetime that drastically deformed the pan. You really need to replace the pan with a good one, or have yours restored by someone who can properly re-align everything. This is usually more expensive than a good used pan. Fi...

A very good possibility is that someone in the past changed the front crossmember in that car and mistakenly used a TT crossmember. The original radiator was then found to have exactly the same issue, and eventually the radiator inlet was modified to fit correctly. I've seen mismatches at the top ho...

$3500! That will be sold in a couple hours!

Kerry, Have you tried your new seal in your timing cover yet? Was it a good “press fit”? If it was, then that seal is oversize, or the hole in your cover is undersize...

And another thing;.... when I tighten the original zinc alloy gas caps after filling or checking gas level, I always back off about 1/8” because when tightened all the way and left tightened - they sometimes stick shut necessitating a wood stick tapped on the ears to loosen. Sometimes I even oil th...

I have to clarify my post that I made near the top of this thread. When I was using the general term “cracked drums”, I was specifically talking about “big obvious cracks” in the surface the lining runs against. Not the micro cracks in the webs or around rivets usually found upon close examination o...

I’ve repaired several engines with cracked low speed drums and Kevlar lining. I have not yet seen any cracked low or reverse drums. The problem IS NOT the Kevlar linings. As a matter of fact, I highly recommend Kevlar linings. The cause is is generally one or a combination of the following 3: 1) Adj...

I agree with Original Smith that the pin is not the problem. Its how the pin was installed. The pins are plain old, soft, “hot rolled steel”. The trick is that the pin has to COMPLETELY FILL THE HOLE and be properly riveted over on both ends. If it isn’t, then all the force of the pedal motion is on...

Looks like the band ear broke loose. It either wasn’t latched completely, or tore itself loose. Occasionally, bands have hairline cracks thru the latching lugs that could allow that type of failure.

I’m curious about why they are kicking back?

You may have a difficult time finding that type of coil, due to the fact that KW never made such a coil. Some one custom made those. From what I’m seeing, those coils look like fair reproductions of the late’12-early’13 KW coils, minus the metal tops. I bet they have ‘13-‘27 internals too and work ...

In the late ‘90’s I worked for a GM dealership and we had several occasions where we had to dispose of nearly full gas tanks of bad gasoline. The company that collected our waste oil allowed us to mix a certain amount of gasoline or diesel into our drain oil and the amount was fairly large. If I rem...

Forgot to mention; I posted this to show the seemingly original black paint (not stained & varnished). The brass switch plate is likely a replacement.

Here’s one I bought at a swap meet 2 weeks ago. Pretty nice original condition and painted black. Too bad it doesn’t have a lid...

Sent pics a few minutes ago.

It’s still available. I have another one in pieces too if you just need a couple parts. Email if interested. Thanks.

Post the rest of the parts and give everyone a chance...

Your best shot is having your pistons knurled. .0025” or .005” pistons that are unused are practically extinct. You might find a set but it would be an unlikely find. Used pistons that “look okay”, will have .002” to .005” (or more) wear. The T cylinder has a tendency to have a belly in the middle. ...

Tom, The exact car you want was just advertised here (‘26 Touring, Stynoski winner) for about $22k and about half his investment. I have a suspicion it won’t be for sale very long.

FYI... The 7 “viewers” that you saw were probably all bots & spiders, not actual people.

The radiator in your pictures is not for a Model T! If it was for a T: Have it tested. Any radiator shop should know what to do with it. Just make sure they know it is an unpressurized system and can only take 1 or 2 psi. Just because it doesn’t leak doesn’t mean it will cool well. Sometimes they ar...

Could be a timer or coil issue.

Rod bolt barely tapping the cam? Loose flywheel bolt?

Solid windshield with stanchions ready for cleaning, painting, and glass. The glass has been removed for safety and to lower the shipping cost. All the brass glass mounting channels are present and included, but your glass shop will probably prefer to use urethane instead of the thin brass channels....

Probably should be about 4”. You eventually need proper springs in your seat cushion. It is a big part of the ride quality of the car. Foam is okay if you only make 20 minute trips, but usually isn’t great for long trips.

Is it mis-matching left and right, or forward and back?

I would imagine that if you shopped around experienced builders, a complete powerplant built to your specs, properly balanced, blueprinted, documented, nicely painted, completely assembled with starter, gen, carb, manifolds, and a guarantee would average around $10k.

If you are indeed actually serious; Whoever told you that you might ever find a car to those specifications, for that price, was seriously mistaken... Enough said.

Now, I have some emails in my inbox about a foreign lottery I’ve won that I have to attend to. My odds are better than yours...

Bob, go up to the top (original post) and carefully read exactly what he posted. This is a joke/April Fools type post you are responding to...

Most of the Original Ford driveshaft bushings were a plain split steel bushing that was babbitted.

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