MTFCA Forum

On a T enclosed car, you hang the headliner BEFORE you install the top material. (In other words, you hang the headliner with the top covering material off)

I’d have to say that just about every very good looking and very good running ‘16-‘27 T may be WORTH around $12k-$14k. Some may SELL for more and some may SELL for less. Who knows where their info came from...

At a large swap meet, old 21” tires that are soft & pliable, look okay and still have tread might fetch $20 each. 19”s might go for that too. Old Clincher style tires generally have a lot of issues that straight sided tires don’t have and their quality is very subjective (most used ones are no good)...

The “good ones” from Rocky Mountain Machine have been off of backorder for a couple months now and appear to be a nice tight weave like they were for years before. They are my first choice. If you can’t find them at the major vendors on Friday, send me an email and I can help you out. I generally ke...

If someone would pick up everything there with no further work on your part, and also takes all the old tires, a price tag of “free” could be pretty fair. If you dispose of the old tires, $50-$100 for the pile might be a fair price. There could be several hundred dollars worth of parts there if “pro...

Regarding Ford Script .031” pistons: Shortblocks rebuilt at Ford branch plants received those size pistons. Ford’s “in house” rebuilds are probably the major source of those pistons, but they likely were available as parts stock too. The reasoning behind the .0025” and .005” pistons were that they ...

That’s what it is alright. A fantastic price too!

I posted this in response to the picture at the bottom of page 1 showing all the different “size” Wisconsin plates from 1925: Wisconsin started with low numbers on January 1st and issued plates consecutively. So, generally a “low number” was more likely to be a “carry-over” registration from the pre...

I’m interested to see what Larry or RV says about finish and if that is documented in prints or something. I’ve seen them both ways and generally assumed many may have originally been black.

I saw that ad a couple weeks ago, so if the parts aren’t gone yet, that will tell you something.

Weren’t the ‘13 KW coil boxes painted black “Originally”?

Are the vendors out of stock?

There is a modern seal that fits in place of the can for the inner felt that works way better. Machining a carrier for a modern seal that replaces the washer inside the outer sleeve is also the way to go if you have a lathe.

Early housings are a big can of worms! Most originals are bent and also loose enough at the differential rivets that they will leak quite noticeably when put into service. Just mentioning that in case you’ve never done one before. If you don’t carefully dot all the i’s & cross all the t’s on that pr...

I stock new ones and have used them on various customer projects over the last 17 years without any known problem. The only thing I can think of is that new petcocks never fit right in new Brassworks radiators. The lower outlet of a new Brassworks radiator always had to be tapped out some more so th...

A punch mark like that is probably not from a hardness test. Generally if a part like that is hardness tested, then only a sample (one part or a few parts) from each batch of heat treating gets tested, not every part. The mark that a diamond penetrator makes for a hardness test on a gear or shaft wo...

The TT rear axle actually rebuilds quicker and easier than the car axles once you know what you’re doing. There’s no setup work for mesh or lash. The only inconvenience is bigger heavier parts. You need a TT wheel puller & sleeve puller. Used gears are fairly subjective regarding wear. An excellent ...

That is some top-notch speculation...

Why is it necessary to comment on something from nearly a month ago that is marked “sold”???

Steve hit the nail on the head! Yes, the suppliers do call things brass when they are really bronze!

I’m sure if you call Steve or Don and ask if they are brass or bronze, they will tell you “bronze”...

Actually, they originally were made of bronze, and all the spindle bushings being sold by the major vendors are bronze also. Bronze and brass are actually different materials. Brass wouldn’t last too long as a bushing material in this area.

Tim, Bob’s original post DOES say the key boards ARE available separately.,,

Yours for $20 and shipped free inside the USA! Email only please. Don’t post here or send a pm. The first email in my inbox gets it. Thanks!

Yours for $45 and free shipping inside the USA! Email only please! Don’t post here or send a pm! The first email in my inbox gets them. Thanks!

Gone......

It was a well known fact (back in the day) that you never paint the contact surface of a belt pulley because the belt won’t grip.

Powder-coat will NEVER wear off unless it is of extremely poor quality.

Gene, Pull the spark plugs, put it in high gear, and hand crank it...

How many pounds at 2” of compression?

The plastic case coils generally don’t work too well, even when they are new. Send them all back if you can. As far as I know, the only new coils that had a decent reputation for working properly were the ones purchased directly from “Fun Projects”. Also suitable would be “properly rebuilt” original...

Is there an advantage to putting a TT rear on a speedster? YES, so you can win First Place at the Slow Races! But kidding aside, it was a much heavier built axle with a lower gear ratio. The lower ratio meant the vehicle moved quite a bit slower but could carry much more weight. The axle shafts are...

Open up your transmission inspection cover and look inside. Put your hand lever all the way forward. Now move the clutch release shaft left and right. It does have a certain amount of lash. The mid-point of this movement is its natural center and where the internal clutch release parts aren’t wearin...

And those are the recommendations of an oil supplier sometime in the 1930’s by the looks of it...

All of “today’s” oils didn’t exist then. Things change...

Last chance if anyone wants it. $30 will buy it, which means it would arrive at your door for less than $50 bucks... If there are no takers in the next day or so it’s going to be machined in half the long way and made into a nice wall-hanging display piece for my shop. There would then be an opportu...

I don’t believe the felt repair is the best way to solve the leak issue. The shaft should be allowed to float left and right on its own. If you push a piece of felt against the hogshead and clamp it, you are loading the internal clutch release forks, the bronze clutch release collar, and the clutch ...

Here is a bare aluminum Warford six speed transmission case. It has a “bite” out of the input flange. Otherwise is in good shape. I’m listing this because there are many of these out there that are in far worse condition (such as badly cracked cases) and this could be an easy repair for a qualified ...

It’s probably just bad shifts.

You close the throttle when you shift, then open it slowly to pick up the load in high gear.

Same as you would when driving a manual transmission except the location of all the controls are different.

I think he’s talking about the pedal shafts. If it is indeed one of the last trips of the season and you’re going to fix it this winter; The best advice is probably just to keep an eye on the oil level and let it leak. By the way; The “often-mentioned” hardware store o-rings set into a chamfer under...

That repro you have is a fair (not excellent) reproduction of ONE of the styles that were available. If that one doesn’t fit okay, then an “original” that looks just like it might not have adequate clearances either...

$100. The first email in my Inbox gets it. Please don’t post here or send a pm. Will ship within the United States at cost.

I remember seeing someone at Hershey with a whole stack of them within the last couple years.

Sold

Sold

If I remember correctly, the early and late style hinges aren’t interchangeable because the fastener locations/style are different.

I just took a look at the link posted for the “new aluminum tank” for $750. I wonder if they’ve sold any and I wonder if it fits properly? The welding looks very disappointing, like it was done by someone with very little experience... $300-$400 is a fair retail price to pay for a nice used original...

It’s broken off in a way that the remainder in the tappet should be fairly loose. A left handed drill bit thru the valve guide from the top should turn it right out. You will, of course, have to fabricate an “extension” for the drill bit, but that’s an easy “creative” task.

Receipts and documentation will tell you what has been done. If you don’t have that, then a basic visual inspection of the inside the engine and transmission by someone very knowledgeable may give you a basic idea. Complete tear down and measuring would be the only way to know for sure.

That would be a 23” rim for a 30x3+1/2 clincher tire then...

As Mark mentioned, there are some different style rims and some may fit your wheels better than others.

The original tappet bores on early blocks are broached with oil grooves that allow excess oil to drain back into the crankcase and there are no drain holes in the bottom of the valve galleries. If the block ever gets reamed out for oversize tappets the reamer will eliminate the original oil drain gr...

Larry, As far as I know, all the TR coils from Minnesota came with that already done too.

If you’re going to the trouble of doing this on a milling machine and don’t already own a 90 degree countersink; just set the milling head at 45 degrees and use any regular end-mill.. Lock the quill and use the knee to obtain your depth adjustment.

It’s not a ‘13...

The clutch lever AND the low pedal are different between starter and non-starter transmission covers.

A place where all the T’s have engines that turn but need wood...

There is a paper “gas cap gasket” that goes on the cap. 90% of its job is preventing the cap from “taking a set” and getting stuck.

Original Smith wrote: ↑
Wed Oct 14, 2020 11:15 am
I don't understand why you would want to use a 26-7 carburetor on a '13? Why not change the spray needle?

Because the casting is different...

Don’t try to actually use it to power anything. These setups cause the differential to be loaded in a way they were never meant to operate. You may be disappointed in your rear axle longevity...

Starting point for a properly rebuilt Holley NH is generally 7/8 turn open (that is “seven eighths”, which is just less than 1 turn). At this point, it will generally start and run, but your particular “good running” adjustment could be anywhere from 1/2 turn to 1+1/2 turns open. This depends on you...

Fits on a T frame like a T radiator.

Was on a speedster that was put together in the ‘50’s. Is of heavy construction and would be great on a T tractor or power unit. It leaked a little, but not so much it couldn’t be used. It might be easy to re-core. Anyway, you cannot go wrong at the price. $100 will take it, but sorry, I won’t ship ...

“A” is correct for getting the most light and is the way they were originally aligned. However, with whatever is in there in place of a reflector, it is doubtful that the headlamps will produce enough light to drive by no matter what you do.

$400 for the whole works. THESE ALL ARE BRASS BODIES. I’d also take rebuild-able Holley NH cores as full or partial payment. Let me know what you have. The first email in my inbox gets them. Please email, don't send a pm. Thanks!

It’s a bare, early T frame that actually needs to go from Milwaukee or Madison, WI, to the Seattle, WA area, but I should be able to arrange getting it to Luray if anyone is heading to the Northwest from there. Thanks!

Please email me and we can discuss payment!

This is a symptom of a cracked or broken driven gear sleeve (the brake drum shaft). Sometimes reverse and/or low won’t work and can feel like it’s locking up the engine. Sometimes everything will work just fine, especially when the fracture is fairly “new”. It’s more common to happen on ‘26-‘27’s, b...

The general recommendations is that boat trailer bearings should be disassembled, cleaned, inspected, and re-packed every season.

Taper and keyway are in great condition. Taper has been checked and is not worn. The drum is a brand new McLaren brake drum and is installed with brand new studs. The studs have all been properly pressed into place with the correct swedging tool. $225 picked up here or add only $10 more for shipping...

I’ve got one of those heads with that freeze plug boss and have been thinking of re-machining it for a hot water pickup for adding a heater core.

What’s showing in the picture IS a “freeze plug”. There are multiple DIFFERENT Waukesha heads. The one pictured uses a freeze plug there.

You have front wheel bolts. You need rear wheel bolts. They are just a bit longer. Some vendors do have a tendency to occasionally get them mixed up. Otherwise, maybe the spokes are just a bit too thick?

No picture or good description, not even what body style the car is. Also doesn’t look like there is space for a T where that hole in the wall is. I wonder what the rest of the story is?

I’ll give you $50 cash for it if you bring it here.

FYI, I’ve found the “going rate” for a decent one is around $125-$150. I’ve seen them for more, but you can usually get one for that.

Why fix a fan belt? The new black Gates belts the vendors carry are around $7 and should last a lifetime.

1 defective solder joint or broken wire between commutator and armature.

I know two people that use these and a third person who removed them when they fell apart inside after a couple weeks use. My opinion is that the risk of internal damage is of greater concern than the small time and effort it takes to remove the inspection cover to adjust the brake & reverse bands. ...

I’m no longer in need of the rings. Thanks!

Dan, I just emailed back.

Ask the vendor and then post their answer here.

The tanks that ding-dong has for sale on Craigslist aren’t even close to the ones on the pirated picture of Steve’s car...

Email me (don’t pm). Thanks!

This is a good hub with an excellent taper. It has a brand-new McLaren brake drum installed as well as new studs. The studs were properly swedged on a press with the correct tool. First $225 gets it. Will ship for $15 inside the lower 48. Email if interested (do not send a pm). C1FD78D8-7371-4ACB-9E...

Has to be over a year now. Maybe even longer...

RV, I experienced that problem on 1 Universal out of a set of 4 that I bought around 1991. The tire was incorrectly made. There was no fabric holding the bead to the casing. The tire was maybe 5 years old, was on a perfect rim, had well over a thousand miles on it with occasional speeds of around 60...

Actually, if you really know what you’re doing and know what a correctly set coil sounds like, then you could have very good success getting them real close If you set them by ear while running on magneto at a very low idle. There is a distinctive “clack” right around the sweet spot on most coils.

Back in the day, If you bought new FORD coil points and installed them per the book directions with the correct gap, odds would be very good that the coils would work properly. This would have been the result of FORDS very good quality control on the gap and spring tension of the follower spring on ...

Odds are pretty good that it’s not really worn. The clutch cams are supposed to have additional play. That’s what allows you to push the pedal partially in to actuate the clutch without engaging low band. The cams are also internal and run in a constant oil bath. Usually they aren’t too worn. If you...

FYI: The ‘26-‘27 choke rod came in a bunch of different lengths. The new ones the dealers sell are extra-long and you can cut them off as needed and relocate the knob.

I believe the original lacing wrapped around and tucked between the shroud and the lacing on the loop above it.

Don’t do ANYTHING until you contact the person who rebuilt the engine and ask him the question.

My advice would be to leave it alone unless you have tens of thousands of miles on it AND you are noticing a noise.

Sold. I’ll take it. Just sent you an email. Thanks.

These are a “carryover” of the “KW Brand” coils made since the 1950’s. The manufacturer is basically making them pretty much the same as they have always been made. In other words, they are a “medium quality” coil. Some work good, some are a little flaky. The capacitors generally don’t last very lon...

The set of three hoses from the T parts dealers are generally less expensive than anything else you can buy locally. The red can be changed to black with leather shoe dye.

That is a Model T sedan and it does have two doors.

There are some repro brass nuts that have been available off and on over the years that aren’t quite machined just right. The threads and/or clearance inside isn’t quite deep enough and the pipe flange doesn’t get tight against the manifold. If this is the case, you need a better quality exhaust nut.

Looks like it’s worn very undersize, but hard to tell from the fuzzy photo...

There is no friction tape in a genuine FORD field coil.

I would imagine there were (and has been since) many “spurious” manufacturers and rebuilders who did some pretty dicey work...

Headlamp style plugs were used as basic power plugs for accessory items. Might just be a splitter.

You don’t see the wheels when you are driving...

If I recall correctly, Gene’s early line bores were cast. Some of the parts there look like his. I’m sure he’ll post on this thread eventually. I wouldn’t be surprised if this is one of his earlier line-bores.

Hmmm, maybe something from the canvas then? I know new canvas has an oily stink to it.

Here’s another thought... Does the top touch the fender when it’s down? Maybe a reaction of the paint with a top treatment? Or maybe a reaction to the top material itself?

Is it possible that the fender maybe got an occasional wind-driven spritzing with a tiny bit of gasoline from an incompletely sealed accessory gas can on the running board???

In June I was told they expected 30 in a container “in about two months” and that a number of them were already pre-sold.

I would not be surprised if it was a few more months and/or they were all spoken for...

“Wearing in” anything like this is essentially going to be displacing or wearing off metal that is an interference fit. Does that “worn away” metal just disappear? NO! It just rolls around in there and recirculates between the bearings, sleeve, and axle shaft. Some of it will abrade and some of it w...

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