MTFCA Forum

No picture or good description, not even what body style the car is. Also doesn’t look like there is space for a T where that hole in the wall is. I wonder what the rest of the story is?

I’ll give you $50 cash for it if you bring it here.

FYI, I’ve found the “going rate” for a decent one is around $125-$150. I’ve seen them for more, but you can usually get one for that.

Why fix a fan belt? The new black Gates belts the vendors carry are around $7 and should last a lifetime.

1 defective solder joint or broken wire between commutator and armature.

I know two people that use these and a third person who removed them when they fell apart inside after a couple weeks use. My opinion is that the risk of internal damage is of greater concern than the small time and effort it takes to remove the inspection cover to adjust the brake & reverse bands. ...

I’m no longer in need of the rings. Thanks!

Dan, I just emailed back.

Ask the vendor and then post their answer here.

The tanks that ding-dong has for sale on Craigslist aren’t even close to the ones on the pirated picture of Steve’s car...

Email me (don’t pm). Thanks!

This is a good hub with an excellent taper. It has a brand-new McLaren brake drum installed as well as new studs. The studs were properly swedged on a press with the correct tool. First $225 gets it. Will ship for $15 inside the lower 48. Email if interested (do not send a pm). C1FD78D8-7371-4ACB-9E...

Has to be over a year now. Maybe even longer...

RV, I experienced that problem on 1 Universal out of a set of 4 that I bought around 1991. The tire was incorrectly made. There was no fabric holding the bead to the casing. The tire was maybe 5 years old, was on a perfect rim, had well over a thousand miles on it with occasional speeds of around 60...

Actually, if you really know what you’re doing and know what a correctly set coil sounds like, then you could have very good success getting them real close If you set them by ear while running on magneto at a very low idle. There is a distinctive “clack” right around the sweet spot on most coils.

Back in the day, If you bought new FORD coil points and installed them per the book directions with the correct gap, odds would be very good that the coils would work properly. This would have been the result of FORDS very good quality control on the gap and spring tension of the follower spring on ...

Odds are pretty good that it’s not really worn. The clutch cams are supposed to have additional play. That’s what allows you to push the pedal partially in to actuate the clutch without engaging low band. The cams are also internal and run in a constant oil bath. Usually they aren’t too worn. If you...

FYI: The ‘26-‘27 choke rod came in a bunch of different lengths. The new ones the dealers sell are extra-long and you can cut them off as needed and relocate the knob.

I believe the original lacing wrapped around and tucked between the shroud and the lacing on the loop above it.

Don’t do ANYTHING until you contact the person who rebuilt the engine and ask him the question.

My advice would be to leave it alone unless you have tens of thousands of miles on it AND you are noticing a noise.

Sold. I’ll take it. Just sent you an email. Thanks.

These are a “carryover” of the “KW Brand” coils made since the 1950’s. The manufacturer is basically making them pretty much the same as they have always been made. In other words, they are a “medium quality” coil. Some work good, some are a little flaky. The capacitors generally don’t last very lon...

The set of three hoses from the T parts dealers are generally less expensive than anything else you can buy locally. The red can be changed to black with leather shoe dye.

That is a Model T sedan and it does have two doors.

There are some repro brass nuts that have been available off and on over the years that aren’t quite machined just right. The threads and/or clearance inside isn’t quite deep enough and the pipe flange doesn’t get tight against the manifold. If this is the case, you need a better quality exhaust nut.

Looks like it’s worn very undersize, but hard to tell from the fuzzy photo...

There is no friction tape in a genuine FORD field coil.

I would imagine there were (and has been since) many “spurious” manufacturers and rebuilders who did some pretty dicey work...

Headlamp style plugs were used as basic power plugs for accessory items. Might just be a splitter.

You don’t see the wheels when you are driving...

If I recall correctly, Gene’s early line bores were cast. Some of the parts there look like his. I’m sure he’ll post on this thread eventually. I wouldn’t be surprised if this is one of his earlier line-bores.

Hmmm, maybe something from the canvas then? I know new canvas has an oily stink to it.

Here’s another thought... Does the top touch the fender when it’s down? Maybe a reaction of the paint with a top treatment? Or maybe a reaction to the top material itself?

Is it possible that the fender maybe got an occasional wind-driven spritzing with a tiny bit of gasoline from an incompletely sealed accessory gas can on the running board???

In June I was told they expected 30 in a container “in about two months” and that a number of them were already pre-sold.

I would not be surprised if it was a few more months and/or they were all spoken for...

“Wearing in” anything like this is essentially going to be displacing or wearing off metal that is an interference fit. Does that “worn away” metal just disappear? NO! It just rolls around in there and recirculates between the bearings, sleeve, and axle shaft. Some of it will abrade and some of it w...

All the supplies you need to do your own field coil probably will cost about what RV sells one for.

If you really want to do your own, I would suggest using a single stack coil. It’s about half the work & supplies. Your ‘15 should have 3/4” magnets and if so, a single stack coil will work fine.

I stock them. Email me thru the forum contact.

I’d never put any old field coil in that was coated with anything.

You know how clean you have to prepare a surface when you do body work? It’s impossible to get a used field coil that clean...

1,000 feet would be enough for 250 cars. Should be easy to initially sell lots of 10 sets to each of the four major vendors. That’s 40 sets right there. Why don’t you have 1,000 feet made? Should be easy to get it custom manufactured exactly the way you want it if you order enough...

I have enough of the correct “Orange Drop” capacitors for T coils on hand that I could spare some. They are the ones recommended for decades by the more knowledgeable coil rebuilders. These are the round ones so you will have to remove the glass spacer in your coils. 4 for $20 8 for $35 100 for $370...

1- Horn has way too much amp draw.

2- Partial short between horn and switch.

3- Very weak magneto.

Are the inserts hardened? If so, reaming them will probably ruin an expensive reamer.

These were inserts that were swedged and brazed until sometime in the mid teens. Then they were inserts that were swedged and NOT brazed for a few more years. Then they were changed simply to a hole that was punched inwards and the “bent in” steel hole was threaded. The one you have is the “un-braze...

It’s in the FORD instruction manuals as one of the first things to check.

Yes, EVERYONE who does any kind of vinegar or acid soak with their cooling system or block might be asking for trouble. Not right away, but maybe 20 years down the road...

It’s like bleaching an original revolutionary war flag to get clean it up....

I have 2, 4 foot high stacks of used field coils. Probably about 100 of them. I can guarantee that EVERY one of them is a gamble, even if tested. There is probably a 50/50 chance that any one of them may or may not last a couple years. Why chance a failure and disassembly, replacement, reassembly wh...

I think he might have a fixture for removing them. Call and ask if it would cost any more to have him remove it.

What may discharge your magnets is if DC current from the battery is allowed to flow into the field coil. Whether the engine is running or not. This can be caused by a wiring fault, improperly connected wiring, poorly insulated wire harness ends touching each other on the ignition switch, or somethi...

Here’s another one... A Model T has appeared in “The Simpsons” a couple times.

: 4D6CAB35-B316-446C-8375-2A9A2087309A.jpeg (30.86 KiB) Viewed 425 times

Cam lever looks long. Is it for a car or TT?

Properly support the gear. DON’T press on the tips of the gear teeth.

Piston to cylinder or piston pin fits are too tight.

Notice that the cars in both those pictures have the same plate. (Same car, maybe even same day)

Heat.

Take the whole car to a body shop and have it baked in their spray booth a sufficient amount of time to bring all the wood up to temperature. 130 or 140 degrees was pretty common to force dry most paints and may be effective in terminating insects.

The bottom line is this: If you drive correctly, you can get 3,500 miles or more out of a set of good cotton linings. Some people can’t get them to last several hundred miles... The people who get long life from plain cotton linings will likely NEVER have any problem with Kevlar linings and will be ...

It isn’t for fixing spindles with a worn out bushing diameter. It puts a small amount of controlled bind on the spindle to help prevent shimmy issues that were fairly common on some T’s with 21” balloon tires. The shimmy issue can be eliminated by proper endplay on the spindle bushings and proper ad...

It is a marine engine. (Boat motor). It might be a Lockwood-Ash. I believe they were about 3 hp. There should be a flywheel on the rear end of it. Anyone who can fabricate the missing head can certainly make the flywheel too. The flat casting is to mount a single spark magneto and the bronze casting...

Wet sand with 800 grit, then 1000 or 1200 grit if you want a smoother finish. Rinse with water and wipe dry with clean paper towels. Don’t treat, seal, or paint with anything. A T steering wheel should never be cleaned with anything but plain water. If it gets sticky or makes your hands black, then ...

A pm has been sent to your email.

How about an oil shutoff valve for the leaking oil?

Hmmmm... I wonder why most tire manufacturers quit making all white tires in the 1920’s ??? Could it be because black tires were superior and white ones were inferior ??? Actually, I think that is a fact!

As previously stated, the driver you had WAS too small for the job. Had it been correct for removing the bushing, you very likely would have driven it out with a 5 pound sledge in about 6 wacks. The small diameter shoulder of an undersize driver actually peens the bushing into the bore and makes it ...

Looks like there is plenty of bushing there. The indent is from your driver tool. I’d say that either you have the wrong driver or it’s poorly made. The outside diameter of the driver you are using is too small.

Use the brass laminated magneto field coil shims between the block and hogshead. You might have to make the hole in the shim bigger.

jaybee47 wrote: ↑
Mon Jun 22, 2020 3:08 pm
Very very slow and unable to climb a slight slope even at full throttle.

Sounds like the average TT to me... Maybe nothing is wrong with it? Find an experienced TT owner and see what their opinion is.

The oil system in the Model T was designed to provide the right amount of oil. Not too little and not too much.

My first thought is you have to practice shifting. There is sort of a knack to shifting a T from low to high that if you don’t do it just right, it will “buck”. Experienced T drivers might refer to this as a “bad shift”, although that may be so far back in their driving past they might only barely r...

You Have To take the baffle out. Check this out:

A poor connection anywhere between the battery and key switch will allow the full unregulated voltage of the generator thru the lights if they are on. If the circuit to the battery is opened with the engine running at speed and lights on, the lights will instantly go super bright and burn out in abo...

That definitely works, but originally there were no hog rings or plywood involved. There is a “V” channel at the base of the cushions and back springs that gets pried open. There should be cording welt sewn into the seat covers on the sides that just gets pinched in those channels to fasten the cove...

If I find good ones without pedals at swap meets for around $50 I’ll pick them up. If you know what to look for and look them over carefully, you generally find cracks or defects in about 3/4 of them. The aluminum is old and porous and welds poorly so it’s real hard to repair them. Not being negativ...

Unfortunately, the engine and maybe even the rear axle are very likely to have suffered catastrophic damage too (even if only slight alignment issues are apparent now). In my opinion, it is probably totaled for whatever you have it valued at on your insurance. If you were to pay a professional to fi...

I opened up an engine once that obviously hadn’t been touched for decades. There was a serving spoon inside the crankcase.

Not all ‘13 tourings need those brackets. Some bodies were properly built and didn’t require them.

There was a motor oil with graphite called Krex being sold in the late 90’s or around 2000. I remember it being sold at a GM dealer I worked for.

I air them up with no valve core in place and allow all the air to escape about 5 times before installing the valve core and final airing up. That allows the tube to move around inside of the casing and self align itself so there is no stress or bunching on the stem. Odds are fairly good that your i...

I have one. $30 plus shipping. Email if interested.

That’s what I tell telephone surveys... The answer here is: -Kevlar bands -New ductile iron low drum -Original Ford reverse and brake drums are okay if in good condition. -Original Stock Ford clutches that have been properly cleaned, inspected, and qualified. -Original clutch spring that tests 95#’s...

Just a little food for thought here...

Survey results can be biased. They are the opinions of people who answer surveys...

AA cranks are vanadium steel EE cranks are high carbon steel AA is more prone to cracks and breakage but less prone to wear. EE is generally a bit more durable but more susceptible to wear. Its less likely to find cracks in a used EE crank, but many used EE cranks wear a lot at #3 main and the wear ...

The bronze gears are worth $30 each at the scrap yard. You can practically break even on your time even if you open them up and nothing is usable... (When you get them home of course)

Put a good shot of diff lube in there, at least 8oz, or as much as it seems to “take”. I believe its there more or less just to pre-lube that rear bearing real good after a fresh rebuild. The internal motion of the gears does not initially supply enough oil to that bearing. Another point of great im...

Post a picture of your bands. Maybe what was in the “Scandinavia” box isn’t a proper band material. You see this sometimes at swap meets and on eBay... There are some old-time band materials that are a bit too thick.

I’ve experienced a chirp like that twice on T’s I’ve worked on and both times it was a head gasket leak to the outside from Cyl #4. I suppose it could come from any cylinder. You will likely have pretty cruddy rust out around the water passage and/or a warped head that needs to be cut. Less possible...

If you have a race car, you drive it hard on Saturday night and work on it every other night of the week...

Is it possible that the root of the issue is that the parts are operating significantly outside of their original design parameter?

Stanley hardware.

Definitely a timing issue then. Much more likely to be an easily solve-able ignition timing (timer) issue and far less likely to be a timing gear issue.

Some recyclers allow you to mix it with drain oil in a certain percentage and dispose of it with your drain oil. Check with whoever recycles your drain oil. Any gasoline that has an unusual odor should be disposed of. You run the risk of varnishing or sticking your valves if you use it. The deposit ...

If it kicks back it is most likely an ignition timing issue. Something is wrong with the timer or roller, or a bunch of backlash in the advance mechanism and/or an incorrect initial setting. Popping thru the carburetor would indicate the fuel mixture is too lean, but the popping would not cause the ...

I’ve worked on a couple engines that had the spiral style knurling and they they had moderate but noticeable issues. The issues were oil burning and the equivalent of high vacuum intake leak (lean mixture at high vacuum conditions). Bear in mind that the T doesn’t have any valve seals and because of...

My ‘13 touring’s engine block was cast 107 years ago today too...

I haven’t done that myself, but that sort of milling is something you can do on those heads and often will work with no ill effects. It will probably run just fine.

The stock clutch, properly adjusted, with a good used spring (95 to 110#’s at 2”compression) will not slip and is nice and smooth. It also protects the engine and drive-train from unnecessary shock loads...

TT front crossmembers ARE different than the car crossmembers! It’s the usual culprit when someone has an issue with the radiator inlet not properly aligning with the water outlet on the cylinder head. Usually what happens is someone replaces the front crossmember and a car gets a TT crossmember or ...

Best just going to joann. For around $9/yd there is some plain black cotton chair canvas back in the corner with their small selection of upholstery fabric. Nobody makes correct closed car seat fabric right now, so just put in something cheap that looks okay and wait. You can sometimes make real nic...

Looked thru my brackets this morning and I don’t have any. Also, I’m not sure these are an “E” casting number. I think they may/may also be a number similar to the TT bracket. I’m thinking the pre-‘26 bracket should be the same except the location of the side hole might be off.

It’s a TT Ruckstell part.

Tighten up a loose cage, install the bearing on an outer so it can be checked. Run it for a season. Pull it out to check it. You can pretty much guarantee it will be loose again. The only real fix I could possibly see would be to disassemble the roller bearing assembly. Re-machine the cage ends, mak...

Rod, I emailed this morning. If you don’t already have one coming, I have one available that I could ship with your other part Monday.

They are generally pretty hard to find...

I should have one that’s already restored with a new bushing installed. $60 plus shipping.

As I have always understood it, the SERVICE pin was larger than the FACTORY pin (Meaning the pins sold as parts to dealers and meant to replace existing pins were slightly larger than the pins originally installed at the factory). I haven’t seen the prints, but if this is the case, I would guess the...

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