MTFCA Forum

rgould1910

An interesting note/question. Didnt Ford use bronze thrust washers in early 1916 cars? I had an original 16 with them. Also had an original 1917 car that used babbitt and an original 1919 car that used babbitt. None appeared to have been molested.

rgould1910

Larry there were two thicknesses of the red fiber I had. The stuff I had saved for myself I gave away for the most part when I unloaded my early Ford stuff. I measured the pieces I still have and they are .060 and .110 inches thick respectively. Thanks for catching the decimal point error, Allan.

rgould1910

Larry I sold most of my red fibre material to the 2 cylinder Ford guys. It came from a stash found in Australia by an early Ford guy some years ago. Tim got some as did others that frequent this forum. If you're interested contact me by phone and I'll investigate further. You probably have my phone ...

rgould1910

If you're considering making some consider using the red fibre used in the 2 cylinder Ford transmissions.

rgould1910

Larry, I suspect Ruckstell used fibre washers of varying thicknesses to account for manufacturing tolerances. Or perhaps the washers were not made to exacting standards.. The one I provided you with the Ruckstell years ago was .010 thinner.

rgould1910

Is that the same site where it used to be held? Last time I went was over 20 years ago. It was really a great meet.

rgould1910

Art, in the enlarged photo above, you illustrate a flanged bushing between the inner surface of the large bell housing and the triple gear/differential carrier. Number 2. Ruckstell used a flat fibre washer. What you show was used in Perfectos, the forerunner of Ruckstells, as was the inner Hyatt rol...

rgould1910

Amen to the lousy workers comment!

rgould1910

Also noticed there should be a fiber washer illustrated inside the bell housing on the Ford side between the inner surface of the housing and the triple gear carrier. I believe Chaffin calls for a metal washer in that area but Ruckstell used a fiber washer.

rgould1910

Couple observations. I don't think the pins extend thru the shifting fork in the early shifter. Also there is no inner Hyatt bearing on the Ruckstell side of the axle housing for either the early or late model.

rgould1910

Hi Tim. To answer your question, I've used JB Weld with success on ds bushings, kingpin bushings and 3rd cam bushings. In short I use it as a glue to hold bushings with undercut ods so I can align them. I've also used it to fill veed out cracks in engine blocks and water pumps with and without windo...

rgould1910

JB Weld has its place but not where, as here, you have side thrust. No way will it hold up to the rotational forces bearing the key.

rgould1910

Spool is post 1910 because it is 191B not 191. It fits the 13/32 inch studs. The ball is later than 10 as well because the flanges for the bolt holes are thick. But not as late as 13 because the ball has the half moon cut outs for the ujoint pin retaining bolts.

rgould1910

Hard, oh yeah! I restored a 12 column and could never get the column and basket hot enuf to solder even using acetylene and a rosebud tip. I wound up using epoxy to glue everything together, rivets included. I tried to solder twice and only succeeded in blackening the parts requiring hours of buffin...

rgould1910

Hard, oh yeah! I restored a 12 column and could never get the column and basket hot enuf to solder even using acetylene and a rosebud tip. I wound up using epoxy to glue everything together, rivets included. I tried to solder twice and only succeeded in blackening the parts requiring hours of buffin...

rgould1910

You probably know this but there is no way that timer will run. The race has been turned so much that the one mounting screw is exposed. Not only will the firing be affected by the roller contacting the screw, but the fact that only one screw is exposed sugests the turning was not concentric to the ...

rgould1910

I have the same timer cover marked F T. Same font

rgould1910

I've had good luck with Caswell black oxide solution. Photo below is a brass top from a coil.

rgould1910

If you have access to a mill and lathe you can make a contact ring out of a large bar of delrin. The cut outs for the contacts can be made with a keyway cutter. The moon shaped contacts made from steel bar stock drilled and tapped for the posts. Delicate work but doable.

rgould1910

Don Tyler of Rising Sun Ohio has made timers for two cylinder Fords. Try contacting him via the Early Ford Registry. If you come up dry, I may have his info somewhere.

rgould1910

Plan on going if I can bring two small dogs on leashes.

rgould1910

I've never seen or heard of one breaking by either bending or hammering. I've straightened a bunch with and without heat by hammering. Makes no difference. I also tried heating and bending against a solid piece of steel. It didnt work. The bend returned. At first I was scared to use a hammer so I tr...

rgould1910

Thanks Keith, I purchased a pint of blackening concentrate from Caswells on the advice of the Coil Doctor.

rgould1910

How do you get a black oxide finish on brass top coils?

rgould1910

Hudco transmission covers are HEAVY. I sold one because I was concerned the weight would cause the pan to bend where the engine meets the cover. I would never consider using one with a four dip pan.

rgould1910

Do the holes for the contacts line up with holes in the firewall correctly? I ask because the wood spacer between coils 2 and 3 means the don't sit as they should. It's been my experience many do not line up requiring either a new firewall to match or filling and redrilling the existing firewall. Be...

rgould1910

I've always ground them. They are hard. Don't know if a hack saw would work

rgould1910

Email sent

rgould1910

R V Anderson is making new Watts style clutches for all years Model Ts. He is using different material than used originally because the old stuff became too pricey. Has anyone tried his clutch with the new material? Does it work as well? Does it it slip or grab? Does it hold up to a strong engine, e...

rgould1910

The middle one is correct for your car. The different placements of the rivets were on the 3rd style shown. The earlier styles did not have rivets.

rgould1910

The early 09 had thinner and weaker yokes

rgould1910

Photo of the 09-10, 11-12, and 13-14 styles

rgould1910

The 11 early 12 drag links had threaded ends that screwed into the yokes. The thread was coarse but I don't know the tpi off the top of my head. The caps that were bolted to the yokes were pressed steel I believe but these are hard to find. Most folks use the later style because they are stronger an...

rgould1910

How do you keep the red loctote from bleeding through?

rgould1910

If I were doing the job again, I would remove the head and place it vertically a mill or drill press whether I used helicoil or solid insert. Use the chuck to hold the tap perpendicular after drilling the hole. It is darn hard to get a perpendicular hole and thread using a portable drill and taping ...

rgould1910

I'll take a stab at this one. I've seen axels bent where they insert into the hub. Probably due to a rear wheel impact. I'm thinking the repair estimate is for straightening that section. Perhaps the repairman had a large sleeve to replace the outer roller bearing to keep the axle stationary while h...

rgould1910

Perfecto and early Ruckstell

rgould1910

Just to continue the discussion about pistons hitting the head, I have a .080 os bore and my pistons were hitting the Ricardo head I installed. Rather than remove stock from the head, I beveled the alum pistons. Worked great.

rgould1910

The new measurements are too far off to ignore. I'd definitely find the cause and correct.

rgould1910

If it were mine, I'd straighten it. I don't believe there is any service limit though. With the system I use, I would heat shrink the axel close to the center housing. On the other hand if the roller bearing slips into the end of the housing without binding I might leave it alone. I'm sure in the ol...

rgould1910

Thats a good one!

rgould1910

A number of folks including myself use either epoxy, loctite or jb weld after cutting down the od the bushing so it slips into the torque tube. Since the bushing can be removed before gluing it in place, you can cut down the flange until it fits . When you glue it in, you first insert the driveshat ...

rgould1910

Still looking for one coil 5.5 inches tall

rgould1910

What should I use to cover a freshly painted car that will be parked in the garage over the winter. My concerns are I don't want dust to settle on the paint and don't want the cover to scratch the paint.

rgould1910

Looking for a set of two Hassler coil springs for a roadster. I have all the brackets etc, just need the coils. I have a very nice set of touring springs to trade. The touring springs measure 6 1/2" high with a coil diameter of .375". The roadster springs are shorter in height by an inch or so with ...

rgould1910

I only recently discovered the VIN on title, the engine number and the frame number to my 27 were all different. I puchased the car almost 3 years ago and didnt bother to check it out until I was in an accident and fied an insurance claim. My car was totalled and I bought it back from the insurance ...

rgould1910

Late 11 had rivets with small cotter pins rather than dual headed rivets to hold the flipper to the rod and lever. I don't know the span of time they were used. Also the shape of the flipper is different than those on the ones with the folded cam. More diamond shaped and no rounded edge. The thickne...

rgould1910

What are the pros and cons of Hassler shocks? Ie, do they aid in cornering? Do they provide a smoother ride,. Etc etc Input appreciated.

rgould1910

Paul heres the invoice

rgould1910

Email sent

rgould1910

I'll take the spark plug wires if still available

rgould1910

Finishing painting body damage from an accident in June. Decided to paint all the black

rgould1910

Good advice Allen. Especially if you have large cylinder bores. My 27 is bored .080 OS and I beveled the pistons to achieve clearance on a Ricardo head.

rgould1910

Amen to your suggestion Steve!. I totally wore out the tooth not squeezing the handbrake lever when pulled back. Learn by ruin

rgould1910

Dont expect the 13/16 inch distance to work with a Watts clutch even with ground push ring studs. Compress the spring to 2 1/16 inches.

rgould1910

If memory serves the earliest no Made in USA heads did not have the reinforcement post near the outlet. Check with Trent Boggess re dates.

rgould1910

Bore .030 over, no cracks, new valves and seats, new lifters, reground crank , new babbitt in mains and liteweight rods, new timing gears, new valve springs, new pistons and rings,, surfaced decked, Stipe 250 cam with fitted bearings. Everything done well I can see.

rgould1910

All done correctly.
Opinions?

rgould1910

I like the idea of placing a brass shim around the shaft inside the bore combined with the felt and pipe clamp. Minimize the leak and soak it up!

rgould1910

Interesting points I hadn't considered. Thanks Wayne

rgould1910

Thanks John, if I don't have luck with the tensioner, I'll rethink. Replacing the spring is a good first step.

rgould1910

Thanks for the helpful info! As my welding/brazing skills are limited I ordered the tensioner from Texas T Parts.

rgould1910

What is the remedy when the teeth on the steering quadrant are worn and the throttle slips down while driving? Leery about using a file form new teeth.

rgould1910

Where I live its very hard to find stiff copper tubing like what ws available 15 years ago. Its all the soft stuff that easily collapses under pressure. Lately I've used the steel or brass tubing from Langs. I run an inline filter with rubber gas line connectors and a compression ring at the segimen...

rgould1910

Bill, you probably know this, but I thought the Model T vendors sold the combination speedometer/clock bracket. I didn't find it in Langs catalogue but maybe another vendor?

rgould1910

If it were mine with the repairs I'd let it go for $50. They are quite common. The fact its an early brass version of the Holley G makes it worth something

rgould1910

I'll buy the linings, Walt. I'll email you.

rgould1910

I give up. What does N/G mean?

rgould1910

Nice job on the flywheel. Those early flywheels were problematic that way.

rgould1910

I've used a late mag coil ring in a narrow pan 1910 and it fit. Just barely though. If I recall, I had to grind down a couple of rivet heads a bit. Works fine after many years. I sold Jim Starkey a 1910 flywheel and magnets a few years ago. . He may be able to help you. I have no contact info but I ...

rgould1910

Common to see 26-27 brake drum shoes out of round. I've been fortunate to find a few for my purposes that at are true. I suppose they can be trued but never tried it. I suspect you'd have to remove the liing and use heat.

rgould1910

I use roller timers and typically clean them every 100 -200 miles or so. In between I squirt a little motor into the case

rgould1910

Surprising to me that someone went to so much trouble to simulate an 11/ 12 pan.

rgould1910

I thought there was
one large rivet at the end of the drive shaft to hold the pinion

rgould1910

Unlike the earlier style, the 26-27 drive plate is captured inside the brake drum. The earlier style relied on a lip connection, not as secure. The 26-27 style in effect locks the driving plate to the brake drum. The middle bushing is not as critical as it is in the earlier style. All that said, man...

rgould1910

Thats a really nice looking job, Steve.

rgould1910

If the rebuild might sit a while I mixed STP with engine oil

rgould1910

Sorry Kim the pistons and rods have been sold. Only parts available are steering column and bracket and camshaft. I'll take 450 plus shipping for the column and bracket and $50 for the camshaft with free shipping.

rgould1910

Reply sent to Blaze.
Steering column and bracket still available
Richard Gould
rgould1910@comcast.net

rgould1910

Most parts are spoken for. Remaining parts include:
Steering column with new dash bracket
Used camshaft
Pistons and rods

rgould1910

You can turn them down if followed by ever finer filing then ever finer grades of sandpaper. Each step is done on a lathe.

rgould1910

Sorry for the double and missing photos. Unable to correct.

rgould1910

Sorry Herb the water pump sold the first day.

rgould1910

Remaining parts for sale, make offer: Rear axle tubes Front and rear cross members Used camshaft Side mount acetylene generator Intake manifold Water tube and fittings Four pistons and eight rods Steering column and new base Early 06 crankcase and main bearings with extra front cover. Photos of spec...

rgould1910

Thank you, Brian.

rgould1910

Need a starter and generator tested/rebuilt. Need icontact info.

rgould1910

I adjust coils on a Strobo Spark or whatever its called. When I have them properly adjusted, they typically make different buzzing sounds.

rgould1910

Pressure oiler is spoken for

rgould1910

Gear case and brake drum are spoken for

rgould1910

Timer, radiator, transmission frame, Stipe cam and new timing gears, all three carbs, original water tube, water pump and ujoint are spoken for.

rgould1910

rgould1910

rgould1910

rgould1910

Steering column,$500 Rear axle tubes, $50 Frame cross members, $75 Four cylinders, $200 New Stipe cam with new timing gears, $600 Original crank and cam used, $150 Transmission frame new $2500 Used Gear case and brake drum $300 Water pump assembly $75 07 Holley carb, new $700 07 Kingston carb $1000 ...

rgould1910

Recently sold a 1907 ModeL N Ford. Many extra parts for sale including new Brassworks radiator, Stipe cam, Jaehnert transmission frame, new timer. Much, much more at good prices. Price list and photos available.
Richard Gould
rgould1910@comcast.net

rgould1910

Frank, my email is not working. Please send $150 check or MO to
Richard Gould
272 Spencer St
Folsom, CA 95630.
I will cover shipping.
Thank you.
Please confirm here.

rgould1910

Thanks Mark, TRDxB2 sent you an email.

rgould1910

Unique to 1908 Model SR Fords per period price list, this original horn bracket came into my possession when I was collecting parts to complete a Model SR which I subsequently sold. I puchased the bracket on eBay for more than my $150 asking price. Price includes shipping. 20200828_132324.jpg Richar...

rgould1910

I am currently taking photos to send out. There are photos of the car when I purchased it on the Early Ford Registry website under Photos, Richard Gould's photos (47) The gallery contains photos of the car and an 08 S no longer in my possession.

rgould1910

I can be contacted for a frank and honest assessment.
Richard Gould
rgould1910@comcast.net
1-916-215-5316

Search found 361 matches