MTFCA Forum

rickd

Ray, Murray continued to make the frames through 27. The short version; Murray Body Corp. went into receivership in December of 1925. In the 20s body manufacturers were trying to absorb other competing firms to protect their contracts with Ford and MBC got too far out there financially. Mainly becau...

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That frame stamp is from the Murray Body Corporation. They were the parent corporation of Michigan Stamping Co. that supplied the Model T chassis from 1913 to 1926. Michigan Stamping was an early supplier to Ford as was another company, Parish & Bingham. On the Model T chassis a Michigan Stamping fr...

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A little more info from Larrys' article about the 1913 car; He indicates the wheels were blue with a V stripe on each spoke and a single stripe on the felloe. Just in case you want to add more detail to your wheels.

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Floor board starter switch.

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Pic of a 1925 two hole frame/two rivet quadrant. This is a July 1, 1925 Touring. I've owned this car since 1998, found it on a farm a little south of the town I live in.

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Snyders carries a good selection of finished steering wheels. Maybe they can help you?

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Dave, yes, Classtique is still around. I recently looked at their installation videos for a project car. Go to the Classtique site and there are links to their videos.

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Thanks Dan, no didn't receive it. My phone # is in that email, maybe we can talk on the phone later today.

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Dan, I emailed you a couple questions about your 13 Roadster through the Forum email. If it didn't show up I had the same problem a couple/three years ago when I purchased reamers and inserts from you. Let me know.

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Don, I sent you a question via this site email.

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I watched this one go across the block last night. Went for something around $47K as I recall. A sad sight. I think the owner has at least double that into the build. Also watched a few 30s and 40s hot rods sell for much less than the cost of their builds as well.

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Yes, thats the same brackets! Thank you Erik. Mystery solved, appreciate it.

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I am trying to id the side lamp brackets on this 1914 Touring I recently acquired. I have gone through all of my reference materials and can't find a match to the brackets. Maybe aftermarket accessories? The car is a late August 14 build with a Hayes body. The side lamps are Victor Model 2. Thanks i...

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Here is a pic of the 11 location.

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John, is the touring taillight bracket location the same on a 10 as an 11? I found a post from MTFCA June 4, 2007 1911 taillight and speedometer location, that shows the measurements of the bracket location. I saved a screen shot of the 1911 measurements pic I think I can email you if this helps.

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To the OP's question. It was actually the early cars that had bronze thrust washers sandwiched between two steel washers in the differential. From early 1909 to sometime in 1914 the thrust washers were bronze before being changed over to babbit. From the Encyclopedia pages 574-577 " A bronze thrust ...

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Edison, I live in Grand Forks, ND just north of you. I have two 1914 Tourings and just starting the restoration of a 1913. Contact me anytime, happy to help you any way I can. There is another very experienced Model T guy in Moorhead, MN across the river from you. He also has a 1914. I can connect y...

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Larry, sent you an email about the 13 Holley 2 screw.

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Pic of my KW coil box ignition switch. The internals are the same as Eds' master vibrator but the switch internal connection lever is designed to turn by the Yale/KW key versus the normal round ignition key. Nice switch Ed, the patent date on my switch is the same as yours. Also of note the internal...

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Similar to Johns' recommendations; if you have gone over all of the electrical connections with no luck I would back out the starter and bendix and look them over carefully to see if something has come loose or broken. Keep an eye on that little key in the starter shaft when you take things apart.

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No! We can't get rid of sandpaper! Its taken me almost 30 years to get good at block sanding. Good write up Brent, excellent info. Thank you.

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A little more info from the Coachbuilt site, Ford Model T auto body suppliers: C.R. Wilson Everitt Bros. O.J. Beaudette Kelsey-Herbert Co. American Body Co. Hayes Mfg. Co. (also supplied Ford with Model T fenders) Milburn Wagon Co. Fisher Body Co. Kahler Co. Wm. Gray & Sons I don't know if this is t...

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And one more item that may be helpful. I have used www.Coachbuilt.com as a resource for information about the body suppliers to Ford. They have lots of info regarding the numbers of bodys supplied to Ford and details about the companies themselves.

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Neal, I believe the information stamped on your front seat frame indicates the supplier of the body and the month and year of construction. I have two 14 Tourings, a Beaudette and a Hayes or Herbert. (Scroll down I have a post dated August 9 about the Hayes/Herbert car.) On both of those Tourings th...

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Maybe a carry over thing. Most likely a dealer assembled car and they were using up what they had on hand. Or maybe the owner preferred the fold outward windshield and had it put on.

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I acquired a 1914 Touring a few days ago and I am trying to determine if the body was built by Herbert or Hayes. I have done a lot of encyclopedia/google research and Hap Tucker has an excellent post dated May 8, 2011 about this subject but no conclusive way to determine the difference between these...

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There is a mtfca post about these-carbs July 6, 2020 by Bruce Compton.

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Repeating what these guys just told you in a different way. Make sure #1 piston is coming up on the compression stroke then check that your commutator roller or flapper is near the #1 post. Then set your timing.

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Mike, I think the engine number is listed on the owners post at the bottom.

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Bob, are you running on Mag? Check AC volt mag output, check the mag post for debris stuck to it?

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Where is your 13 motor located?

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Larry, your question is about the 25 open cars so I don't know if this helps. Maybe it provides some timing context. From CD version of the Encyclopedia page 759-April 29, 1925 Ford Factory Letter: "A combined priming and carburetor adjusting rod is now standard on all Ford closed cars, and is being...

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Jeff, post a pic of the crack.

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Ron Patterson posted an excellent article on the Ignition Coil Box Wood Replacement Kit on January 21, 2010 on this forum. Google MTFCA and the title to the article, should get you there. Welcome to the Model T hobby, you're gonna have fun!

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I've always noted in Toms' pictures that the family pictures are taken with everyone piled into the automobile. It was an exciting time to have a new car and transportation was opening up a whole new world for many folks. My Dad grew up in the 1920-30s and I can still remember all of us having to st...

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Left over wood parts for a 1924-25 Touring from a Fordwood re-wood kit. Part # 193-Door wood driver rear, 3pcs. bottom of door piece not included. #355 Pillar #4 driver side. #314 Pillar #2 passenger side. #167 panel brace driver side. #303&304 cowl rails. #325 floor riser, tack strip front. $100+$2...

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And, congratulations on your first Model T. You are gonna have fun!

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Garrett, look at the 12th picture. Pretty sure the casting date is 2-20-14.

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Great post Austin. These kinds of info posts really help the hobby. Thanks!

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I agree with Jerry. Henry Ford was a talented farm kid and an excellent businessman. He developed the concepts and oversaw the details but he wasn't an engineer. One of his key engineers that joined Ford in 1905 was Jozsef Galamb and he worked in the backroom at the Piquette Plant with other enginee...

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Thanks Jim.

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Jim, could you post or email me some more pics of the engine compartment, radiator, front end/fenders area. Thanks in advance.

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I have a Pace-Stealth model 8.5x20 with the deep V nose and the optional extended front frame that I bought about 5 years ago. Pretty happy with it. Did a quick look on the internet, there are 3 Pace dealers listed in New Jersey and Pennsylvania.

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There is a 1907 Ford Model R Runabout on BaT. I have no connection to the car, just an fyi.

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The bottom speedometer looks like a Stewart Model 102 from 1916. I can't make out the date code below the speed drum to confirm the date. See Russ Furstnows' Speedometer book page 53.

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I think those are E&J 466. Maybe include a side and rear picture of the lamps?

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Corey Walker rebuilt a Kingston 4 ball for me. Did a very nice job.

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Looks like both sides have had previous repairs. The driver side fake door panel looks to be replaced all the way to the top edge. The passenger side "rocker" panel area as well. Both sides have unfinished seams probably because of the difficulty of welding the seam in those areas due to the sheet m...

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Joshua, I have a copy of this article by RV Anderson about re-wooding the 23 low cowl roadster. Pretty detailed instructions. If you can't find it online and want a copy email me. Like most of my document collection this is pre-digital.

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I sent an email to you Bruce.

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I sent an email to you Bruce.

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Hey Karl, Steve found you some 13 running board brackets. Read his post.

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And another one if needed.

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Great post Corey, thank you. This is how we continue to grow the knowledge about our cars. Now I'm headed to the shop to look at the latches on my 14.

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In the cd version of the Encyclopedia page 601 re. stake pockets-"later versions moved the front ones back, perhaps to clear the top when it was down." Did a quick skim in the 26-7 documentation section and couldn't find a specific date there either regarding the move of the stake pockets. Perhaps o...

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Bottom picture. Steering column support bracket started in 24. Windshield wiper and rear view mirror available starting in September 24. I'm leaning to its a 25.

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if you can find a copy of Model T Times #389 Jan-Feb 2014 there is a great article about the restoration by Mark Cameron of Owatonna, MN of a1909 Model T # 9043 for the Collier Collection. I don't know Mark and have no idea if this would be of interest to him but I have always been impressed with th...

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I wish I hadn't read this post this morning. Depressing. How are we going to continue to keep the Model T hobby active and continue to attract younger generations to be the next stewards of our cars if we don't share them with the world? I belong to a Shelby Mustang national registry and it has been...

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From the Gail Rodda book, Vol 1 page 20.-"In 1922 the Ford F was introduced and was used until about December. It was made by Ford under Holley patent. Part # was also 6200 B."

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Snyders sells an inner accessory bearing for the rear axle that looks like what you have on the outer part of your axle. Not sure if this is going to help you or if this is a match but go online to the Snyders site, the inner bearing is numbered T-2508-AI. There is a downloadable pdf instruction she...

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For you guys trying to contact the seller this car is also listed on the HCCA site with a phone number listed.

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More great pictures! As Dan said in his post, thank you. The driver in picture #3 reminds me of Teddy Roosevelt. We have a national park in my State named after him.

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Hi John, I emailed you about your 14.

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This last weekend our County historical society held a car show at their museum site. I had the opportunity to display my 14 Touring at the restored service station on the site. The service station was restored by our local AACA club and we hold our monthly meetings there. The car show was lots of f...

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From a Ruckstell pamphlet.

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Martin, thank you for your post and the heads up regarding this transport broker. Even though a couple of the posts here are more of that this is what I do right and you are doing wrong kind of posts, I'm sure most of the club members appreciate the info. This was touched on briefly but I would emph...

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I am doing the upholstery and top on my 25 Touring restoration and found an alternative for top bow repairs in "One Who Collects" youtubes. He glues together 4-5 1x4 pine boards and cuts the bow corner wood sections on a band saw sized to fit into the bows. Those sections are covered up by bow cover...

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My two cents. The 1913 car was less than two years removed from the 1911 models that had a limited offering of a green color. The Encyclopedia Car Description section for 1911 describes this green color. I think it is likely during this era that buyers of the 1913 found green attractive and asked th...

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You don't mention the year of car you have; this is a spare mount that attaches to the windshield stanchion bolts on a 24-5. It has the remnants of a decal on the top and a part number on the underside. Not trying to sell it, just wanted to share a later style of spare mount for your search. Tiremou...

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Paul, you probably know all of this stuff but this is the coil box wiring diagram I used on a Fun Projects rebuild. Found it useful for the continuity checks. Ignore my notes on the diagram that how I work when I do this stuff.

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I use the Ohm meter on my multimeter for continuity checks. Continuity is no resistance to the flow of electricity. While you have your coil box and switch apart it would be a good time to rewire everything and then check the continuity of all of your connections. Then you know things are ready to go.

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Tom, do you have a spare carb you could install and see if that makes any difference?

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Recently bought a nice set of Dill nickel-plated stem covers from Layden. The other neat thing about these Dill covers is once you have them threaded onto your tube stem and in position you tighten them down and they will lock into that position. They look great on one of my nickel era cars.

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David, I am assuming this car is in California? In addition to Bryans' good advice I would add that some pics of the rear end and taillight are also very helpful to your prospective buyers. Thanks for posting this T here. I really like these original 13-14 transition cars.

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Good comments posted here about needing a magneto for low end power and checking the advance/retard on the timer. Sounds like your engine is in good order; I would go back to the basics and pull the carb and clean it up and re-check the float level or put another one on and see what that does. In so...

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What kind of ignition/timer set up are you using?

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Frank, did a quick check in the Encyclopedia documentation section, this might relate to the timing of a USA differential gear change: Jan 24, 1920 Acc. 575, Box 12- "Ten tooth pinion to be used with T-12B ring gear. T-12 48-tooth ring gear obsoleted. Old T-16, 12 tooth pinion, obsoleted."

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This is a July 25 Touring I am restoring. The nickel rad shell has rectangular holes and the sides are clearly slanted. From my read in the Encyclopedia the nickel rad shell and headlight rims became available as dealer accessories in April, 1925 and were subsequently available as options on some 26...

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From the Encyclopedia; In a letter from the Chicago plant September 17, 1924 announcing that Ford is now offering accessory windshield wiper, rear vision mirror and dash light through its dealers. IMHO your rear view mirror, although its cool, is an aftermarket accessory or an owner addition to the ...

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Jerry pics,

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Jerry, Should have some pics to you shortly.

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I have a Ford plate and a Holley plate vaporizers in my shop. Both pretty good. You can have either one or both if they work for you. I wont be using them. Trying to load some pics.

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I understand Mr. Rosenthals' frustration. Why would you put down $30K on a non-titled car only to find out later that when the seller bought it 15 years ago from BillyBob he never got around to doing a title transfer. Guess what? The car still belongs to BillyBob and in my State you have to go back ...

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I just received a 25 Touring upholstery and top kit from Classtique and ordered the top in Turf. Classtique has it.

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Jonathan, a couple of questions about your Model A. Is the engine original to the car? Could you share a partial vin? Does the body have a date stamp on the drivers side front cowl (gas tank)? Thank you.

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James, take a look at Royce Petersons' article "The Kingston Carburetor in the Model T Ford", Model T Ford Fix January 20, 2019. Paraphrasing, the Model Y patent applications were not accepted until years later. Apparently, a method used by patent lawyers at the time to keep the competition from usi...

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Maybe a business decision at the time cause Ford to balk because the Federal govt planned to place additional taxes on the completed Pickup built at the factory. Thus, the practice of pickups being put together at the dealer.

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Thanks John. If I find a bunch I will share them.

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I am looking for two (2) of the older style drain valves pictured on the 4-ball at the bottom of the picture. Email through this site preferred. Thanks in advance.

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To the top for another look. Thanks.

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If I am reading your post correctly the metal seals you have sealed around the axle shaft but not around the outer diameter where it meets the steel rivet ring. As the axle wore and moved off center the rubber lip also started to leak. The seals pictured in your post were an improvement designed to ...

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Thanks Greg!

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I restored a July 1, 1925 Touring over the last few years and did a fair amount of research on 1925 cars to try to keep my car original. I never came across a specific start date for the 1925 single rear window but did read about many changes that happened during that April into July 1925 time frame...

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Want to buy a decent nickel plated radiator shell for a late 1925-27. Prefer email through this club site. Thanks in advance.

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WTB aluminum/steel colored window channels for a late 25 Touring windshield. The vendors carry only the brass channel. Looking for channels in very good condition. I have dimensions if needed. Thanks.

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I'm going to give it a little more value than my colleagues. The market for 26-7 Model Ts has been a little better than the earlier years lately. IMO a range of $11K-$13K for a well running very good condition 26-7 makes sense. Check the engine and frame numbers to see if they match, thats a bonus o...

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Rob, another upholstery resource for you to check out-"One Who Collects" on youtube. He does the interior and top on a 25 runabout. Interesting tip he provides is attaching fabric with hogrings into the open top area of the backrest spring to create that table spot to support the padding during inst...

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Maybe I missed it in all of the other posts about the body; See what engine is in the car and if it is stuck. If it hasn't been started in 10 years and there are issues with the engine that will certainly affect value. More info on the engine serial number may also help you clarify the year of the c...

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Take a look at "One Who Collects" on youtube. Not the same era as your car but he makes the interior and top for a 25 Runabout and installs them. Might give you some ideas on what it takes to make your top. I found it useful for handling an upholstery kit for one of my cars.

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On body reassembly; just wrapping up a restoration on a 25 Touring and found it helpful to go the Reassembly chapter in the Ford Service Manual and put together my own punch list for the process.

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