MTFCA Forum

Rata Road

Thanks guys, I will pass on your thoughts

Rata Road

I'm posting this on behalf of a friend who lives too far for me to view. He has the Hogs head off and is in the process of relining his bands and found this.
Causes and fix ideas would be appreciated.

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Rata Road

Thanks, Ill look him up.

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Thanks Guys,
I had a look at the ultrasonic cleaners, working out which one would hold a Carb is the question. What model/size did you use ?

Rata Road

The Carb restoration shop didn't know anything about the holes or clearing the tube so I didn't give him the carb.
Other than getting the club Carb book I trying myself, any suggestions on who can rebuild this correctly?

Thanks

Rata Road

Taken in New Zealand in 1925

[attachment=0]Milk run 1925.jpeg[/attachment]

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So let me get this straight, are you saying the single hole on the face plate which bolts to the manifold needs to be drilled out to enable you to access and drill clear the tube which is attached to the 2 internal holes pictured about? Is that why the single hole on this UK made Model T Ford Zephyr...

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Ok Martynn, I was going to show the Straight Thru to guy from a Carburetor restoration shop that will be here in 2 days to sort my 30 Chev carby. After Jims comment I was considering to get him to take the Carb and soak properly then rebuild it correctly. If I do I will ask him to record the info yo...

Rata Road

Great info James.
I have just had the Carb on my 30 Chev restored and its not right so the restoration shop is coming to my house this Saturday to fault find. I will show him this carb and see what he says.

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Thanks guys.

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I bought this Holley NH yesterday at a swap meet and thought I might clean it up. I have some new parts on hand, 20 - 25 spray needle etc which states NH 3-3/16 long. Does this model have different parts or Is this suitable? Thanks[attachment=1]DSCN5127.JPG[/attachment] [attachment=1]DSCN5127.JPG[/a...

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Probably but this isn't felt rope, a pair of lady's nylons. I guess it works the same.
They have been in there from the mid 90's at least with no issue.

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I scored a very sound looking unit a few weeks ago for $10. Havent tried it yet but they have a good reputation, probably due to the model not so much they were made in the UK and tagged different.

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Couldn't find a suitable puller but I bought this today at a swap meet. I'll pull it apart tomorrow and that might confirm if what I have on hand is suitable for the job. What years is this set up from? [attachment=0]DSCN5053.JPG[/attachment] [attachment=1]DSCN5052.JPG[/attachment] [attachment=2]DSC...

Rata Road

That sounds like what I found on the other side yesterday, this side was leaking badly.

I followed the TWrenn advice with the Neoprene seal and will nail it up today.

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Reminds me of a 51 Chev my friend bought in the 70's.
The gearbox gave up after a month or so and we discovered it had banana skins added to hide the noise.
Obviously and short term fix to make a sale.

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Got it,
Thanks

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Very enjoyable thanks so much for posting.
I want to do it!

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Today I decided the clean up the rear outer wheel bearing and fit new seals on my 27 Coupe. Left hand side leaks a bit but the right side doesn't so I tackled the right side first. I have a set of Neoprene inner seals on hand so I pulled the hub off and dug in. Once I got the sleeve out I discovered...

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Toon - That looks a simple build, What's the distance between the 2 holes in the plate?

Ta

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Lots of good ideas guys,
Thanks

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Thanks K - that gives me some idea.

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That's a tease Steve! More please. Pleased to see you back up and posting, Wendy and I were worried for some time. I do have a few pullers, top right is a 6". I'm going to a swap meet this Saturday so any ideas on what to look out for would be great. [attachment=1]DSCN5029.JPG[/attachment] [attachme...

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I'm about to venture into my first T Transmission and after watching a few videos I don't think I have the appropriate puller for removing the Clutch Basket if it is stuck on.
Beside buying a new one from a vendor what other options do I have?

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Interesting read. Thanks for posting

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I picked this up yesterday as a sound backup carb but I'm interested in its history. I guess it was fitted to UK Model T's? I also got - A home made air cleaner A rear wheel hub puller I think, you agree? One shockie I think the 4 brass fittings are for a wind deflector, maybe not Model T [attachmen...

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Thanks guys and yes I will contact you Alan.

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All good points. If I had only one T and not fleet of other brands of old cars (all roadworthy) the approach to spending might be different. At this stage I will try a search for a sound a 2nd hand one, plus a reverse also then pull it apart. Maybe I will have to spend a fortune in the end but i wil...

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Great feedback Guys thanks. Plenty to think about. It does seem strange that low band wont grip, looks like it is grabbing the drum but maybe the pedal setup is really worn and thats a contributor. With no load (a rear wheel jacked up) it grips the drum fine. I'll do some measuring. Daves restoratio...

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I think I will try and find a reverse drum also if I can so I will have one on hand if I find a crack in my existing reverse. I would need a caliper to pick up the difference below 7.5" I guess. I fitted new Kevlar bands because low & reverse were slipping, fixed the reverse problem but low is still...

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I'm looking for a replacement low speed drum and was looking for help in what to look for.
Cracks across the band and across the ribs I've seen on videos but what about the outer surface condition?
And what if it has been turned in the past?

Thanks

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My latest arrival, a 1930 Chev. I'm having trouble getting any feedback on where to search for the following clarifications - 1. Where my car was made 2. What year the engine was made as its not the original number matching the original paperwork. 1929 was 46 HP v 1930 HP is 50 HP so is this engine ...

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Thanks guys, Just got an email and he had the rear end jacked up before and once lowered to the ground low gear worked fine, adjusted reverse and that works fine now. If it was mine I would be doing some replacement work in there like you suggest. Always learning..... Great feedback as always guys T...

Rata Road

He has just sent me some pics,
Doesn't look right to me, no shaft going through Brake band spring?

Its a 1925, looks later wider brake.

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Thanks Guys

I thought Alan would have been in here lol

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I'm remotely helping a newbie with his TT, It had no Cab so he has made that, made a nice deck and he's got it running but no reverse or low gear band contact. My cars are rugged up for the winter and I dont want to dig one out, I know the band adjuster locations are different on the right hand driv...

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Same here Steve.
Pleased to see you back on the Forum, had a few of us worried.

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I made this setup out of junk lying around, an old Brass fireside set, some flat metal and a old Dog Collar and it worked great so I have since purchased 3 new Dog Collars with a name tags for bugger all from China. Your thoughts? [attachment=4]Right Rear.JPG[/attachment] [attachment=3]Side view.JPG...

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The white plastic fuel filter was a used one I had on another T for about 8 years and removed when i sold it. My conclusion is the filter didn't make any difference, I have fitted several types of filters on all my T's as its much better than getting a spec of rubbish in the carby which caused my ve...

Rata Road

After suspecting a fuel flow problem on the open road I decided to time the flow from the NH fuel bowl drain. 1914 with oval under seat tank with original outlet tap and metal fuel bowl. Car has a plastic fuel filter halfway along the fuel pipe. After each test the fuel was returned to tank. So I co...

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That is why here in NZ (and many other countries I guess) they phased out checks many years ago, they are no longer legal tender.
Cash is still used but not that much, I would say over 90% is electronic transactions.

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Thanks Dan, that makes sense

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Considering the sound was produced from 12 different coils its just what this car does.
None of my other T's have ever done it but this car does.
Interesting.
It drives lovely so I will just ignore it.
Thanks for all your feedback guys

Rata Road

Coil box is mounted firm. I pressed my ear to the coil box when idling and that where the noise is coming from. I just completed a road test and at 30 mph the chatter disappears when switched to Batt then starts again when back on Mag. Art I think you are correct. Yes the revs go up on Mag, I believ...

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No its not the rods, it coming from the coil box and its not the normal buzz its a metallic chatter. The sound doesn't change when I adjust the timing or when hill climbing etc its a constant noise. On that subject these new coils are so much better on a steep hill, the previous rebuilt coils I just...

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Thanks Adam.
I dont hear clatter driving my 23 Hack however the 14 has a lovely quiet balanced motor, maybe that's why its noticeable.

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My 14 has the coil box inside obviously and it has a clatter that can be heard when driving. I had issues with the first set so swapped out 4 from one of my other T's while waiting on some rebuilt units, ran lovely but clatter still there. I have just installed 4 rebuilt coils and clatter is still t...

Rata Road

I had a similar issue with one of my T's.
Try placing the lever midway (which should be in neutral with hand brake off) and then turn the crank handle and see if the car moves toward you. This will confirm the cause of the friction.
If yes it does, I found a simple cure for this problem.

Rata Road

This is a brilliant jack to use because you dont need to get down on the floor. Set the approx height by inserting pin in a hole then slide the jack under the axle, push down on lever until wheel if off the ground and it locks itself down. To lower the car push the jack handle to the floor, grip the...

Rata Road

An old mechanic recalled this story yesterday when I was getting my 39 Dodge's 6 monthly safety check (required here in NZ) When the Dodge was on the hoist he recalled the following. Years ago a old fella told him he worked for Leckie Ford in "Gore" here in New Zealand. A lady bought a new 46 Ford V...

Rata Road

Looks good so far. Been for 5 long drives of approx 40 mins each and not a single drop even when wiping finger under the brake drum. Maybe it was a combo of the things I tried last time, just to refresh - 2 neoprene seals fitted together New axle end felt washer fitted. Front ball filled with grease...

Rata Road

I cant turn the screen around due to its shape? I fitted 5 small rectangular magnets to the rear of the screen, that might slow the flow in that area. I also fitted 2 neoprene seals squashed together on the offending wheel. That plus filling the front bowl with grease and I will see how this goes. J...

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Thanks Speedy. I'll turn the screen around.
I've filled the front grease bowl and monitor the result.
I'm not sure about lifting the motor/trans off the crankcase?

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Thanks guys, good suggestions. If it is engine oil seeping through is it possible that this oil only makes its way to the outer axles? The reason I ask is the oil/grease level in the diff is about 2 inches below the filler (1914 Diff so higher hole) and is still looking like the new 600w I put in an...

Rata Road

Well that didn't work.
Removed the wheel after a bad leak and look what I found.
Looks like the axle might be bent (check the video), do you think this would promote the leak?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-PBQ3ZDlfo

Thanks
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Rata Road

Looks like I have it beaten. I read that applying a sealant to the inner face of the outer edge of the modern neoprene style seals (that fit inside the rear wheel bearing) can stop the leakage getting past. So I done that, pushed them in firm, then inserted the wheel bearings to hold the axles in a ...

Rata Road

With no top I see its keeping one eye out for rain

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Keith if I ever have one of the Diffs out of any of my cars a drain bung will be fitted as you describe.

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Of course, that makes sense Allan.
Thanks again

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Thanks guys that clarifies for me. Its only the left side that I am having trouble with looking from the rear of the car or passenger side (RHD). I See exactly where that felt goes now, brilliant I will pull the wheels off again tomorrow and fit these to each side plus I will check the new modern se...

Rata Road

John, there was no existing inner seals in place before I fitted the ahmash hat as you call it. But these new seals have only been in for 2 weeks and hardly any miles, Maybe the oil from the diff has got around the outside edge of the seal. Alan - I didn't pick up that the new felt washers I used we...

Rata Road

Thanks Frank, I have never seen a seal in the position on any of my cars so I will put them on (I have a heap of them) when I remove the wheels to fit the correct new seals. Yes I used 600w grease, exactly the same as the pic posted. I sucked out most of the existing oil/grease from the diff so i co...

Rata Road

I think I got the inner seal from Macs a few years ago, modern style. Today I have refitted the old felt seals that I took off a couple of weeks ago as they are the correct tight fit on the axle. I have ordered a heap of the correct size felts to have on hand, I'll fit new ones when they arrive. My ...

Rata Road

Great feedback guys, I just searched what your saying and I'm thinking the diff is over fill due to the filler hole being higher on this era and the level should be about 1.5 " below that. Easy trap to fall into. Too high in oil and probably running up the axle and flushing out the bearing. I think ...

Rata Road

New arrival so no previous rear end history- 1914 small drum. A couple of weeks ago I removed the rear bearings and repacked. I also removed the axle sleeve, cleaned it all out and fitted a modern inner seal. I used a new felt axle cap washer from a packet stating "axle cap washer" plus new steel wa...

Rata Road

My experience is the opposite to most. My first T came with a 12v battery and standard starter. People all said carry extra Bendix springs etc. Car has been 9 years at least on 12v and never broken a bendix spring plus it has a Z head and the compressions are very high, 80 - 90 psi. Just make sure y...

Rata Road

The mag was ok except the revs would drop back when switching from Batt to mag at a fast idle. So I set the car up and used the compass method which I have used twice before over the years on different T's with great results. Its very hard to be confident you have the North part correct and I obviou...

Rata Road

Thanks Jeff

What you say is what I intend to do. Its a fun car.
Thanks for your guidance.

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The question was if the guards looked period correct. Like you say being Canadian perhaps things were different. I have 2 doors and I can squeeze in the drivers door if I have to, that's a Canadian advantage. I'm taking it for a "warrant of fitness" check today which I need so I can renew the Regist...

Rata Road

A more questions if you dont mind on the guards-

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Thanks

Rata Road

Thanks for your input so far everybody. Sounds like lots of bits from different years used over time. It doesn't concern me as its a nice looking car and drives very nice and I didn't pay much. It has an aluminum bonnet with no flutes. Will be interesting to hear your thoughts on the front body when...

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Do you think the transmission matches the era of the engine which is meant to be a 1918 but the engine number implies Feb 1920.
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Good spotting Jerry I was going to check out the steering box today. Slowly working my way through it all. Yesterday I flushed the radiator again, repacked the front wheel bearing, drained the fuel tank and made new fuel lines, removed the trans cover and fitted a screen and adjusted the tail-lamp b...

Rata Road

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Rata Road

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Rata Road

Great info guys,

Thanks

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Thanks Kevin.
I agree and will target a reliable runner over period correct but it will be nice to know going forward.
I'll get to the body pics later.

Rata Road

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Rata Road

It was apparently sold new in New Zealand so yes its Canadian built. Thanks for your feedback so far. So the rear axle itself sounds period correct, that's a start! Yes Alan it is the Mother-in-law I posted earlier. I realize this has been added as a fun factor. I'm guessing there will be lots of in...

Rata Road

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Rata Road

I purchased this 1914 sight unseen and it finally arrived today. I gave it a wash, ran it up to temp then drained/flushed the radiator, changed the oil, oiled and greased the bits you should and now I am keen to see how much of it actually is correct. Motor isn't, wheels, coil box etc. Little histor...

Rata Road

Thanks Ken & Frank. I havent seen my car in person yet (only a few photos), after several weeks waiting for a shipper that suited its planed to be picked up tomorrow and arrive here Thursday. I intend to post pics and let the experts on here help me work out how much of it is original. i'll see if I...

Rata Road

The encyclopedia doesnt clarify the description in anyway?

All it says is -

"LAMPS: Made by Edmond and Jones (E&J), Brown, Corcoran or Victor, all black and brass."

I would like some detail as explained above for the 1915 lamps if possible so I can clarify if mine are correct.
Thanks

Rata Road

No I havent used that before.
I'll see if i can find it.

Thanks

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I would be keen to have the same info for a 1914 if anybody has it?
Thanks

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I like that idea Jem.
Got any pics or drawings to clarify it?

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George - No I didn't but should have.
Ruckstell diff and 5 genuine Buffalo wheels.

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On one of our USA holiday trips I looked at a 17 Runabout for sale in "Shelby" Montana. The owner had died and his daughter was selling the car. They had a large 4 car garage and a wide and long driveway sloping down with a power pole at the end in one corner. The Lady said help yourself and take it...

Rata Road

John - just closing the choke isn't priming. This is how I understand it. To prime you need to get fuel into the cylinders. To do this I turn fuel on, wait a few secs for carb to fill ( because I ran it dry when parked up) then hold out the choke rod and turn crank from 9 to 12 o'clock. Usually take...

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Yes Wayne thats a mother in law seat.
Havent seen it in person yet, waiting on a transporter that wont unload it on the way. Plenty are keen but they unload the vehicles at each main city to rearrange their loads. I'm not having that.
[attachment=0]1914 9.jpg[/attachment]

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oldav8tor - I have the same issue as you. Another of my T's (27 Coupe) with a Z head has never hinted at a free start. The compressions are around 85psi plus still has the original vaporizer. Looking forward to the arrival of my newest purchase (sight unseen) in a few weeks to see how that behaves. ...

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No I didn't switch the batteries over, both cars are 6v and in good condition and always parked up with a maintainer connected.

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I dont agree with some of the replies. Once this car was parked for 8 months (I always turn fuel off and run carb empty until it stalls) and it free started after I primed it and then key on. I dont believe a car parked for a long period will free start just by turning the key to Batt. There will be...

Rata Road

I have a 23 depot hack with worn motor that drives fine. It often free starts especially if its parked up for a few months, fuel on, 3 primer 1/4 turns, turn key and it free starts 70% of the time. I also had another T with the same running gear. This engine was rebuilt when I got it and is tighter....

Rata Road

I purchased this the other day. I have it working except it looks like the body of the jack slides up/down, mine wont. I have it soaking in Diesel but in the meantime has anybody used one of these? I intend to use it once I free it up. [attachment=2]DSCN4325.JPG[/attachment] [attachment=1]DSCN4323.J...

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No, I think it goes in the fuel line. Sorry first pics didn't show the other pipe. It has a inlet and outlet.

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I picked 1.5 of these at a swap meet yesterday. It had a Model T sticker on it not that it means anything.
I guess they are a period accessory to improve economy/performance on any car at the time.
Has anybody tried one?

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Great ideas & feedback guys.
It wont be veneer I think it is solid wood and yes it wont be left outside except when being used.

Thanks for your time

Kevin

Rata Road

Hi Guys off topic this time, I recently purchased a 1951 Rover 75 P4 know as a "Cyclops" for obvious reasons. Previous owner has passed away and had it for 60 years and it was always garaged. The interior woodwork is great and I want to keep it that way. Sun exposer when out and about is my main con...

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