MTFCA Forum

Jack - I sent money to the paypal email you gave me. Please call me back again.

I am interested in the gear if it is still for sale.
Scott - (217) 369-7665

Ok - next issue. It looks like the thrust washers for the rear end are supposed to have shallow pins to keep the steels in place. There seems to be only 1 pin still intact in the entire assembly! All others are worn flush. Anyone else had this problem, and is there an easy way to deal with it?

Scott

Scott: FWIW, I recently removed some good gears from bad Ford axles and pressed them on new Snyder's axles. It took on the order of 1500 lbs on one gear and 2700 pounds on the other to remove and install the gears. There should be approximately 0.001" interference between the axle diameter and gear...

Funny, I didn’t see a reply that mentioned getting the model T Ford club of America repair book on rear ends. It will give you all the information and specifications you need to do a rebuild or repair on your rear end. You can order them through the model T Ford club of America club or any of the v...

Be aware the driveshaft bolts are not a standard thread size, so order some new ones from one of the T parts houses. The pinion bearing spool and torque tube are mounted to the housing with studs on earlier models and bolts on later 22-27 cars. As Dan said, they are an unusual size and thread that ...

Even a well set-up car doesn't push around easily. There is a lot of drag in the system. When you pull the hand brake lever back to the upright position, you should see the clutch pedal lower to the halfway down position. This is "so-called" neutral where the direct clutch pack is released and the ...

James Mike Rogers wrote: ↑

Sun Jun 02, 2019 8:38 am

Knowing where you are located would help. Someone local might be able to come by your shop and educate you on the proper operation of the T.

South of New Orleans! Come on down for some crawfish!

Popping and banging in the drivetrain could indicate a bad u-joint and/or front driveshaft bushing. Remove the bottom plug at the front of the torque tube. It's the one opposite the small grease cup. Push on the driveshaft. If it moves up and down, the bushing is bad and needs replacement. You may ...

Ruxstel24 wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 03, 2019 4:49 pm

I have a fairly decent oval tank....

We may be interested. I am going to attempt cutting the tank open, cleaning out the rust and weld it back together.

With the rear end out of the car, I have removed the torque tube/driveshaft assembly and split the case. One side of the case had 2 steel washers with a brass thrust washer. The other side had the 2 steel washers, but no sign of any brass washers. So in what I have read in the posts from everyone, I...

Thanks again for the insights! Today I pulled the rear end out of the car to give it a good cleaning, check clearances, u-joint maintenance, and brake cam bushings, so it is not ready to be started right now. However, from reading the posts, I feel the symptoms are leaning toward the clutchs being t...

Thanks for the replies over the weekend! Lots to look at now. The "pop/bang" is definitely not ignition, it is a mechanical noise - like a gear jumping. I have suspicions the rear end may be the problem. I currently have the brakes off the car awaiting now bushings for actuator rods, so i know they ...

Hi, My name is Scott. I am not a model T guy...yet. I am a race car crew chief for a 4 car NHRA drag racing team and have a good mechanical aptitude, but this thing is way before my time!! LOL The boss owns 3 Model T's which he has decided I am in charge of, and must learn to drive and work on them....