MTFCA Forum

namdc3

Dan, thanks for these two photos. It clears up a question I've had for awhile. Most people are missing the clamp piece and they just align a lug to the hole on the frame and bolt through it. I've looked at factory photographs to see what was right but I hadn't seen what I was looking for.

namdc3

Great! I will submit the order that I started last night.

namdc3

Slightly OT and not Ford, but in case anyone wondered about greasing in white cuffs...

namdc3

Well, “best laid plans,” I guess. Time to order this online. I’ve been looking forward to reading it about as much as going to Chickasha, so I guess at least I’ll get to do one of the two this year.

Hmm, come to think of it, I'm not sure I can do that yet with the museum closed temporarily.

namdc3

Looks nice, Bob!

namdc3

Now cancelled. I guess you could look at that as postponed until next year.

namdc3

Postponed. http://pre-war.com/

namdc3

http://pre-war.com/

Now they've updated from Postponed to Cancelled.

namdc3

Tbird, note there are at least two base diameters on what are otherwise very similar looking clocks.

namdc3

No more wisdom out there? I read through the patents and didn’t see anything that would drive being handed, but that doesn’t mean much.

namdc3

Thanks, Ron.

namdc3

Please hold a few for those us who have planned to buy it at Chickasha like the above article says. It's probably not too late to get more made, either. Thanks.

namdc3

Thanks, Dan. I had thought of the rebound peg, but at least on the ones I have, they don’t appear to be handed either. It’s pretty common for the perch bolt holes to get really worn out and for the arms to get very bent out of shape. I have several arms with no to very little hole wear and I can see...

namdc3

What is the functional or geometric difference between a LH and RH #60 front arm on the beehive style? The brass tag and hard oiler bolt head tab are two differences, but the geometry seems to have the perch hole, shackle hole, and arm spring end all in straight alignment. Unlike pancake style arms ...

namdc3

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namdc3

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namdc3

Thanks, both.

namdc3

Agreed on the physics. The pedal hookup arm on the cross shaft does give you a leverage boost as compared to a straight pull cable like the original A-C, for example, but having the force on the self-energizing side halved at the brake probably isn’t great. I wonder how wide spread the idea of self-...

namdc3

Also, wiring diagram. Several circuits are optional. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80 ... 1256789231

namdc3

JTT3, I think that’s a Service Station Equipment Company hcct, which uses a similar but different ring. It’s possible the Ford ring would work, though. Bob will probably chime in.

namdc3

Is the mounting plate supposed to be on the top or the bottom surface of the upper rail edge on a fall of 1924 (1925 model) runabout? Shown here on bottom, which I think is correct.

namdc3

Thank you. I was fortunate enough to go the Great Dorset Steam Fair twice, and it is indeed a fairly hilly area. The steam guys are proud of their heavy haulage heritage, and they have a large heavy haulage active display, including a large hill they pull. Here in the US, we tend to focus on agricul...

namdc3

Mark, thanks. It’s Hardin with an i, but that and the patent are all I’ve found, too.

namdc3

Well, believe it or not, that did it! I’m not sure if it was luck, perseverance, or adding “Chicago” into the mix, but I found the manufacturer (not in Chicago) in a Motor Age from 1922. Patent https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/45/7c/21/00033c373d3313/US1464761.pdf B454B9FC-BCB4-4C79-8C87-...

namdc3

ThreePedalTapDancer, I think you’re right. I found an ad from them with that U symbol for a drop forged, counterbalanced crankshaft for the Ford. I didn’t find any brake ads from them, but they probably made the parts for someone else.

namdc3

namdc3

I posted these in 2017 or so, but no one had seen them before, so I thought I'd try again. I've searched Google patents, internet images, the forum, Kenealy's accessory books, old catalogs, etc. and haven't been able to identify the manufacturer of these brakes. Any ideas? 738148.jpg 738153.jpg 7381...

namdc3

John, I re-read your magneto thread ( https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8241&p=61541#p61541 ) from last fall. While it's quite possible that the rear main wasn't fitted properly and has worn to the extent that you have excessive crankshaft end play in a relatively short period of time...

namdc3

Jtt3, can you post a photo of your tester? It will help determine your spark ring style. Bob Scherzer has the above style.

namdc3

BTT in case of an original or two out there for sale.

namdc3

FYI, I believe those are Moore brakes.

namdc3

Back up for sale. Push pull is wrong for what I need. I’m sorry about that.

namdc3

Email sent

namdc3

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namdc3

Thank you, Bob. I've sent him an email; I read awhile back that his health wasn't good and hope that he's well. I hope to find originals but realize that's a long shot. His rings look very nice.

namdc3

I'm proud to have recently bought these two beauties and would like to get two spark rings to help get them back to their former glory. I'd really like to find original rings with the 18-Z-245-B part number in the backside. Below is a photo if my HCCTs and two photos of the ring previously posted by...

namdc3

Thank you, Ron and Bob. I will definitely be by to buy at Chickasha.

namdc3

It’s interesting that the manual doesn’t mention the pulley. I wonder if this manual is slightly later after discontinuation of the pulley, or if the pulley was actually used by Ford to qualify the HCCT itself prior to its use. I have no idea other than guesses. http://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/unknown...

namdc3

I understand now that those are two pieces with individual set screws. Handle can be removed when operating with pulley. Makes sense.

namdc3

Bob, thank you for this information. If you could tolerate one more question, what is the story on some units having the pointer/electrode straight opposite the crank handle and others having it at 90 degrees to the crank handle? I stole one photo from above (on a 18Z245N180 stamped unit) and the ot...

namdc3

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namdc3

Ok, so no "SNxxxx". How about the pulley on the back - I gather all Ford ones had it, but some early outsourced ones did, too? (and, yes, I will be buying a book). To be even more specific in your statement, do you mean ONLY Ford units had the number stamped in the base? I.e., all outsourced units (...

namdc3

Am I to gather from the above that the part number and N180 in the side of the base and a pulley on the back does not indicate an original Ford unit since N180 isn’t evidently a SN? Ron used to post that Ford units had “SNxxxx” hand stamped in the base. I assume it’s in this location, as well? In ot...

namdc3

I used stainless steel line, painted black. I filed down a stainless tee fitting so that it looked like an old cast fitting once painted. If I recall correctly, hose clamps weren't originally used; I used a brake flaring tool to create a little bump just in from the tubing ends, which creates a nice...

namdc3

Sold. Thank you.

namdc3

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More photos. Moss included at no extra charge.

namdc3

1926 1927 pickup bed. Very straight for its age with rust out in the rear crossmember. Local pick up or free delivery to Chickasha. $600. 1/2 down now if Chickasha pick up. Thanks.

namdc3

More pics

namdc3

1925 pickup bed. Rough. No tail gate. Local pick up or free delivery to Chickasha. $125. Thanks.

namdc3

Matt, I found your document interesting. A couple things I've wondered are 1) what the acceptable range of secondary C-D resistances is (I've seen some %s listed, but I've seen contradicting information) and 2) whether or not it would be better to have a tight grouping of this resistance across a se...

namdc3

+1 for plexiglass

namdc3

What kind of box? A steel pickup bed?

namdc3

If I’m reading that correctly as one plate, that $400 aligns with the $800 for the pair I was told a few years ago.

namdc3

Scott, Chris's plate just shows another way to assemble the same kit (not the same but similar to the one attached). Nebraska required two plates I assume. If someone comes up with a third 39487, that would be cause for concern.

namdc3

Scott, I'm not with the car right now and don't have any great photos at hand. The numbers are the same font (mine only shares the 4 and 8 numerals with the OP's), as is the NEB. Like mine, the OP's plate frame appears to be a somewhat flat metal rather than round rod based on the outline showing th...

namdc3

Just my 2c. I have a matched pair of 1914 NE plates on my '14. They aren't unobtainable or priceless, so I choose to hang them on the car. Using them is the way I choose to enjoy them, even though they do have value - just like any expensive accessory or these cars themselves. In the grand scheme of...

namdc3

Here's the one from Lang's. https://www.modeltford.com/item/3082OL.aspx

namdc3

Allan, we have stayed there the last several years and will this year. It satisfies the basics and is quite a bit less expensive than the nicer hotels. It's not so nice that I haven't thought about staying other places, but not so bad that I'd pay twice the rate. The rooms (at least the one we got l...

namdc3

I was just thinking perhaps the magneto was back feeding into the negative side of the battery, with half the sine wave cancelling the positive feed of the battery to the coils. It might be worth mentioning that the magneto's ground point and battery's ground point were pretty close together. Also w...

namdc3

I have a 6V battery backup on an F to aid in easy starting. It will start on mag when warm, but it starts easier on battery. There is a knife switch from a hot shot battery box that allows me to switch from the magneto to battery or open the knife for off. The original setup just had a single wire f...

namdc3

Follow-up: I did an in-car magneto recharge, and I think I'm in okay shape. Before recharge output was 15 V; after recharge was 26 V and the bulb blew followed by a new bulb that blew at 24 V. I'm questioning that I may have misread the meter a long time ago when I thought I had 34 V since the same ...

namdc3

Thanks, Mark.

namdc3

I think I did that, and the continuity went away if you pulled out the coil that was making contact through the timer. I've convinced myself that this all makes sense because of everything being tied together by a common ground. I was kind of hoping someone more electrical than me would confirm, tho...

namdc3

I confirmed with several coils that there is continuity across the side upper button and bottom button, so that confirms that "X" would be grounded if the timer rotor/roller is in contact. I also confirmed that disconnecting all three light bulbs made the continuity between "KLOR" and ""X" go away; ...

namdc3

Thanks, Frank. Yes, it's like that with the exception that my generator is self-grounded with a jumper right now and "T" is unconnected and insulated. Disconnecting at "W" makes an open between KLOR and X. Also, taking the coils out does the dame thing. That's why I'm thinking there's continuity thr...

namdc3

BIll, I don't have lights during this test, just continuity though the filaments to ground. TRDxB2, I don't have the jumper. It does have something to do with the coils, as is only does it if the timer is at a contact point. It seems like everything would be tied to a common ground when the timer is...

namdc3

1925 runabout - Does it make sense that there's continuity between the mag, coil, battery, and light terminals on the back of the switch when the key is on mag and the light switch is on (engine off)? I checked it all about a million times, but I want to make sure things are right to prevent a magne...

namdc3

btt, open to reasonable offers

namdc3

namdc3

Thanks, Novice. I might need that luck.

namdc3

Thanks, it's T. The emboss is T, and the bump has been layed down flat and tacked.

namdc3

$900 obo. More photos here...https://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/d ... 42722.html. Sorry, can't ship. Would consider trade for very nice original/period wooden roadster pickup bed to fit 1925.

namdc3

I am seriously considering an in-car magnet recharge. Although I have been careful and don't recall ever putting battery power to the magneto, something could have happened that I'm not aware of. The end play doesn't seem to be enough to drop from 34 to 15 volts. I was kind of hoping for more forum ...

namdc3

Thinking a little more, it would act this way if the cam gear was off about 90 degrees (quarter turn) in either direction. 90 degrees one way would make Exh open on the intake stroke and Int open on the compression stroke. 90 degrees the other way would make Exh open on the power stroke and Int open...

namdc3

Since the intake and exhaust work right next to each other (IOW, disregarding overlap, compression and power strokes have no valves and then exhaust and intake are next to each other), I don't think the cam gear being off mark would perfectly switch them.

namdc3

No other takers? Thoughts? Does the mag resistance tell anyone anything? FYI, I installed a new mag post, and got the same output at about 15 volts; no change, as expected.

namdc3

Just wanted to follow up with a thanks for the comments. I like post straps, too, and also agree that they last for generations if cared for. I've not had one fail or slip. Nevertheless, battery manufacturers say not to use them, and I don't blame those who are placing a strap(s) under the battery p...

namdc3

I just measured the resistance of the magneto solder blob to ground as 0.9 ohms with a cheap digital multimeter. Shorting just the leads of the meter together was about 0.4 ohms, so the mag was about 0.5 ohms. I gather from reading others' posts that this is higher than it should be (should be 0.25-...

namdc3

Update: I realize this is crude and approximate, but I pulled the lever back and inserted a stack of feeler gauges between the belt pulley and timing cover. Then, without rotating the crank, I put the lever in high gear, used a pry bar to pry the crank forward somewhat gently to not bend anything, a...

namdc3

Piewagon, thanks. The engine was built around 2005 by a reputable guy. I bought the car in 2018, so no reach back (plus, he unfortunately has passed away). That being said, the PO didn't drive it much, so I wouldn't think the thrust surface would be worn badly. Plus, it's odd that I had such a step ...

namdc3

Update: More details. I had recently changed the plugs and timer due to a high speed (25-30 mph) surge. This surge seemed electrical and happened on both battery and mag. I had switched from a used roller timer to a NOS swap meet non-S New Day. This evening I switched back to the roller timer. Now i...

namdc3

John Regan once said in a post..."A few weak magnetos I have seen will put out correct low RPM voltage but then the position of the crankshaft shifts as the engine speeds up the the magneto never develops the higher AC voltage needed at the higher RPM's. Those will tend to indeed increase AC voltage...

namdc3

Good thoughts. Keep 'em coming. As an FYI, everyone is correct that terminal straps can still be bought but aren't typically carried in stores anymore. I've used one many times without known problems, but as a general rule they are frowned upon due to risk of internal damage to the cells (or of cour...

namdc3

I'd like to pulse the community to see how people are lifting their battery out of the carrier with or without a box. A group 1 battery mostly fills the box or even the carrier without the box. The original wooden case had metal handles. Some modern batteries come with a built in plastic handle and ...

namdc3

Oxy/acetylene torch tip cleaning files will also work well for cleaning the burner and are very cheap for a kit with several diameters. It sounds like it could be a pressure issue, too. Ensure that there are no obstructions or leaks in the line, the seal to the water tank on the generator is good, a...

namdc3

FYI, there are multiple diameters of the base circle.

namdc3

Steve, the short answer is that whatever the weakest link in the system is will be the hot spot. You want that to be a fuse, not a random spot in the harness. With 16 ga., the only way to accomplish this would be to go to a lower amp rated fuse, at which point you would get a lot of nuisance blows. ...

namdc3

Yes, I painstakingly centered the ring, and the ring is round. I think it's working okay based on a good coil doing what it's supposed to. The "every other location" was what seemed odd, but I think we got it figured out based on the A/C sparks. I think things make sense now. Those are good ideas, t...

namdc3

Green scotchbrite and some fine sandpaper - 400 or 600 grit I think. Then I checked continuity everywhere.

namdc3

Thanks, Mike. On the second point, I should have stated "for a given spark lever setting", as yes, all four would switch if the lever was adjusted to the next 22.5 degree timing position. On the last point, I agree that the actual spark plug theory is driven by the center electrode being hotter and ...

namdc3

I'll restate the bottom line clearer in hopes of an answer. Does the model t magneto generate sparks jumping in alternating directions when used on an HCCT without a timer due to the magneto's A/C? The answer to the above question hinges on whether polarity of the induced current in the coil's secon...

namdc3

in the same vein...http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/11 ... 1278437532

namdc3

In the pencil test, a flare on the ring side would correspond to the pointer being negative, which would also correspond to the easy direction for the spark to jump (electron concentration on sharp point) and also the brown spot on the ring. All of this makes perfect sense if indeed the sparks alter...

namdc3

I played with it some more this evening. I was not successful at taking good pictures, but I observed the same thing. Interestingly, there is a coil that has nice fat blue sparks at all 16 locations gapped to 1/4". When I changed the pointer to 3/16", this coil had fat blue sparks on the previously ...

namdc3

Kevin, that's an interesting thought. If the ring and pointer are switching between being the cathode and anode, perhaps that would also explain the alternating brown spot. I hesitate to even comment for fear of further revealing my complete lack of understanding of what is going on. I would think o...

namdc3

Good thoughts. I have to go to the four letter w word, but will check back later. I haven't seen any instructions on how to ensure your HCCT is good (other than a pro rebuild). I wish I knew who rebuilt it, but the gentleman I bought it from passed away recently. I do know the ring standoff insulato...

namdc3

First off, I'm a newbie to using an HCCT and fully understand that I understand very little. I have a professional rebuild my coils, but I happened into the opportunity to buy this HCCT and like to fiddle with it. (Read as please refrain from suggestions to have a professional do my coils or to try ...

namdc3

I didn't know that would still work from the old forum. Thanks; I tried that.

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