MTFCA Forum

For pulling to the left, I would check to see that the left wheel bearing is not too tight and dragging. I just had a wheel bearing get real hot on a car that I bought recently. Turned out the previous owner had installed the spindles on the wrong side and the left bearing had tightened up so tight ...

Thanks Hank. PM me with the details. Cost, shipping, etc.

Hank: Here are the pictures you requested.

Thanks for the suggestion John, but I think I will replace the hub. I will remember that for a future application though.

Hank: I will get some photos. Is there a particular area that I need to get details of?

Thanks Hank. If it were .020 out I think I would give that a try. I don't think that technique would work too well though with it .054" oversize. Tim recommended you for a source of a replacement hub. I think that I will replace the hub. Do you have one to sell? If so what are the terms?

Thanks for the recommendation Tim. I was going to ask if the new steel hubs that the vendors have are quality machined parts or not up to snuff reproductions like some are. Just wanting to know if it is worth the money for the new hub, or just look for a good original. I checked out my stash of whee...

Tim: The new cup and bearing are Timken. Not China junk.

I have done some more measuring. Walter: Yes the old and new cups measure the same OD. I did mistype my measurements earlier. The actual ID and OD measurements are 2.767 and 2.713. I measured the hub inner diameter farther out where the grease seal rides and it measures 2.713. I guess that explains ...

I see no sign of the hub being cracked. My suspicion is that when the bearing tightened up that the inner cup started spinning in the hub. The bearing then continued to tighten pressing the bearing tighter into the cup and expanding it as it wore the hub. That would explain why it took a lot of effo...

Walter: No, I didn't misplace the decimal. I know it seems as if that would be the case. It did take quite a bit to get the old cup out, but the new cup drops in and you can visibly move it from side to side. I measured the bore with the T shaped bore gauge and caliper, and the cup OD with the calip...

Just got the engine in my car and got it on the road recently. I know I should have pulled the front wheels and cleaned and repacked the bearings before I ever took it on the road. But I didn't. Did about 100 mile drive the other day and all was well. I took a short drive a couple of days ago (about...

I find it interesting that in 1915 the price of a sedan is $100 more than a town car.

Hole goes up. It should have a grease cup when all together. Some people substitute a zerk for the grease cup.

You say you have a vaporizer carburetor. It could be that the central plate has rusted through. That could explain why it ran fine and then it didn’t. Worth checking out.

I have a high compression Reeder (Reader?) low head. This has the Ford script and “Made inUSA”. I would prefer to have a high compression high head ie. Z or Prus. I would trade straight up yours for mine. Anyone interested? It is cleaned up, painted, ready to install. I can take a picture to send if...

I don’t want the whole pack to come apart so I hold it with a pliers a ways from one end. Then hit the end with the torch.

Larry Smith: There was nothing “political” about this decision. It was based totally on science and concern about the health and safety of our members. How many people would you let die for your so called “rights”?

Steve Hughes, MTFCA Secretary and board member

I believe that the Pruss head is available in cast iron for additional cost.

Sent email. Steve

I will take them, Henry. PM or email me with shipping charge and your preferred method of payment.

skh at eskays dot com.

Thanks Ron, Don, and John. I will plan to be there.

To Mike Royster: Unfortunately Kwik Poly is out of business and no longer being made. Sad day for the hobby. It had a number of uses that are not easily replaced with another product. I haven’t found anything to come close to replacing it.

Scott: I don’t know where you got $4K from. I followed your link, and he is asking $7500.

I don't think anyone started one this month. I guess it is up to you to start it with your project.

Distributor gears.

Looks like you borrowed the seat from a one holer there Steve. Bet it works great.

I am glad that my recommendation of this book spurred you to find the old email and then start this thread. It is great that she is selling more books because of it, and more people are learning more about their cars as well.

This club drives around and eats too. The other club just beat us to the T shirt. I tell my friends that we are an eating club with a driving disorder.

You could get a set of floating hubs for wire wheels.

Holy moly what a haul. I am very envious.

Mike has been on the national tour in Cookeville, TN. You should probably be able to get an answer this week.

I guess one way to know for sure what color that would be is to catch a mole, skin it, and see what color it is.

One I really liked I saw on the back of a semi trailer. It read “If my turn signal is on, it is not a request. I’m moving over. Get the hell out of my way.”

Looks very similar to what was on mine when I bought it, except the wheel cylinder is on the side rather than at the bottom. The shoes have angle brackets welded on the back side so that the brake lever actuates them as well as the hydraulics. Mine was using a master cylinder from a 60s era Ford Bro...

I would use West System epoxy. It is used extensively on wooden hulled boats and is designed for wood. If you want someone to do the work, try finding a boat repair shop to see if they would do the work.

Nothing like the incentive program. I have confidence you can do it.

Glad I saw this. I didn't know I had the wrong button on my '26 touring.

Sorry I'm not able to come. Would like to see all of the improvements made since I was there last summer.

I love touring in the Flint Hills. But I like back roads and will go about anywhere in my T. If you want to put together a tour there l, Steve, count me in.

Well, now with the measurement for the ‘09 touring (thanks Bob) the 87” still stands. I think that gives me the information that I need. Thanks to all for your responses.

Well, so far the 1919 centerdoor has the title as the tallest. I will have to get my '21 centerdoor off of the jack stands so I can measure it. Thanks George for that one. So who do we know at the Piquette plant?

Thanks Wayne. That’s why I was going for the standard production cars and not TT or custom body models. Do you happen to know what the height of the ‘09 touring would be?

I am wondering how tall the tallest T is. This could be an open car with the top up or the highest point on an enclosed car. I am thinking standard production cars and not custom bodied or TT. Anyone have this information?

I just had a block done. Wasn’t hot tanked. It is baked at a high temperature then blasted with a fine steel shot. Then magnafluxed. It cost me $100.

Hi Tony. The 1909 project is looking good. As for the paint. My opinion is that Ford didn't put a clear coat on it in 1909, so I don't think you should put one on today. I know it will look great either way you go.

Wow. Looking good Rob. Will you have it at the speedster reunion?

Why are you removing them, Dean? Did someone not install them correctly?

Yes, I think that Don Lang was having them made. Last I heard the machinist that he was getting them from is no longer making them. Don't know if they went out of business or just quit making them. I don't think he has another machinist lined up as far as I know. I tried to order a set a couple of m...

I feel your pain, Dean. I have a 1911 Oakland that had fairly good interor. It was at the point where it would either have to be a museum piece with original interior or a tour car with new interior. I chose to have a tour car.

I’ll put my two cents worth in. Most of what I’ve seen posted I agree with, but I also see some misinformation. Here is what I think I know. Lead was added to gasoline when the compression ratio got high enough to cause preignition or “pinging”. Adding the lead increased the octane and stopped the p...

I’v Had a couple that the threaded part has twisted off. The electrode is’nt soldered. Just touches. Or may even have a slight air gap, but it doesn’t hinder the spark at the end of the plug.

Les: Thank you for the suggestion. That might be something that we should consider. Printing and mailing is a significant cost, and any savings would be beneficial to the club and to the members. I do think that many members would still opt for a printed magazine, but I don’t see why a digital optio...

Dan: Did you get my email? I haven’t heard from you yet. Hope to catch you before Chickasha.

Dan: I sent you an email regarding this and your ‘21 block.

Drill out the holes for short lengths of dowel. Use a good wood glue. For the best hold I would use a hardwood dowel. Use a self centering drill bit to predrill the holes for the screws.

Left on Thursday morning to get ahead of the front that was coming in. Got home Saturday morning about two hours before the blizzard started. I was really glad we left when we did.

Lots of good possibilities here. I got a call from one of my local chapter members that thinks he has what I need. That will certainly be the most convenient. I will keep each of you informed of how that works out.

Thanks to all of you.

Steve

Does anyone know how I can contact Dave Huson? I want to see if he would have a block that I am needing.

Steve and Wayne: Wow, blocks on both coasts about as far from Nebraska as you can get. If either of you are going Chickasha or know someone near you that is coming it might work, but I think shipping would make it not practical. Ben: 1915 is too far out of range from 1921, but thanks for thinking of...

Still looking.

Needing a bare block for a 1921 car. Would like to get close to the right time frame, but what do you have? I would consider a complete engine if the price was right. I will be going to Chickasha. Could pick up there.

Steve Hughes
4 zero 2 45 zero 25 two 4
skh at eskays dot com

Sounds pretty intriguing, Tony. Haven't put together my tour schedule for the summer. I guess I need to run this by Susie and see if this tour fits in the schedule. The Billings tour looks like a lot of fun, and some time in Yellowstone would be a great way to top it off.

I am currently building an engine for my '21 centerdoor. I got a 270 lift driver reground cam from Chaffin's Garage. They recommend .015" for both intake and exhaust. Since that is their recommendation, that is where I will be setting mine.

Glad you got it fixed for Sierra Vista. I will see you there.

I think there would be a licensing issue with reproducing this poster since it has the Ford script on it.

Happening to me too. Also, the return to forum tab at the bottom of the thread has disappeared. Can only get there with the back button.

I agree. Not a good change. No reason to make the classifieds hard to find b

Thanks for the lessons in bore measurements guys. And sorry for hi jacking the thread for a while. Don’t think I will be getting ball gauges for now. I am working on an engine in about the same condition as Robert’s but I am doing a full bare block rebuild.

Just checked my gauges, and my set does go to 5/16". I'll be darned. Learned something today. Thanks for the input.

I was editing my post while you were typing. I had no idea that there were gauges like that that were so small. I will have to check to see what my smallest gauge will measure.

Thanks for the reply, Dan. I have those, and can measure the larger bore diameters like cylinders. But how do you measure a small bore like valve guides? He said he was measuring a consistent .317". That is a much smaller diameter than can be measured by one of the telescoping bore gauges that you s...

Why are some user names in bold type, and most are not? I tried to figure it our, but everything I checked did not pan out.

Yes, it does look awfully good for a 7 or 8 year old car.

Wouldn’t be brand new if the picture was taken in 1936.

How did you measure the guides? I have never figured out how to measure the ID of a small bore. Thanks.

So Spade, that post drill has been in your family since 2000 huh?

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