MTFCA Forum

The car has a MTFCA sticker on the windshield. Someone in the local or national club my know more about the car and its owner.

Erik Johnson wrote: ↑
Fri Apr 12, 2024 9:43 am
I find it odd that Blockley doesn't have at least one distributor here in the U.S.

When Seamus Hnat tried to become a distributor in the US, Blockley wouldn't even answer his emails. The problem is on Blockley's end.

I had brass screws on a shelf that worked.

My back yard.

The starter crank in the last photo has some sort of disk-shaped device. Would that be an anti-kickback accessory?

This thread is about straightening a drag link but the suggestions and Ken's straightening devices would work for tie rods too.

https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42093

A young couple with two pre-k kids saw my Runabout in a grocery store parking lot. We chatted about the car and then Mom asked if she could take a picture of the kids in front of my car. I asked the little girl in a Princess dress, "Would you like to get in the car to have your picture taken?" I thi...

Don't forget about the photographer, who was at the right place at the right time with a hand holding the squeeze-bulb. How fortuitous for him or her.

Weighing and balancing pistons and rods would probably have a greater effect on reducing vibration. This assumes that your other rotating engine components are balanced too. My T runs fine with cast iron pistons. Contrary to current automotive wisdom, my modern has a 2L 4-cylinder engine with an alu...

Don, there are many of us here, including myself, who would be happy to help you overcome your photo posting difficulties. What's the problem? How can we help?

I agree with you Adam, 100%. And I told him to check ends first since he has an Apco spring cap on one end. That suggests wear on the ball or cap or both.

A local gentleman asked for guidance regarding a '27 Tudor that was owned by his recently-deceased father. His father hit a rut when parking the T and bent the drag link. I told him that it could be straightened. Then he sent this photo. I am questioning my advice. What do you all think? I saw older...

Robert, that will get you paid up until 2028! Onto a different but related subject. I received my copy of Vintage Ford yesterday too. There was a nice article that was written by my friend Bob Buer about the '22 TT that has been in his family since new. He owns it now. It has a Schurmeier truck body...

I fought this same battle. I replaced my old axle with a straighter one along with new (repro) perches. I did not remove the spring from the frame or change the wishbone. The ball on the wishbone fit nicely using the old axle but I had to use ratchet straps to pull the front axle back to reinstall e...

rnwilliams wrote: ↑
Thu Mar 07, 2024 1:04 pm
Are you sure the steering column is mounted correctly in the car? It can be mounted on the wrong side of the firewall.

Good point Ricky. I have seen columns with the flange on the interior side of the firewall.

Mark, you can list the car for sale here for a modest fee. Call the club headquarters.

In photo 1, I want that swage on the floor in front of the anvil. That large size is unusual for a blacksmith shop.

Loaded and almost ready for the 425-mile ride home.

400 out of 425 miles of the drive home looked like this.

I am assuming that the sleeves are made from commonly available gauges of steel. "Just a smidge thicker" may not be available in a standard gauge thickness... Jerry, the company I work for buys 300,000 tons of steel each year. We state the thickness range that we require in our specifications. We d...

I thought Jackrabbit used Turbo 400 disks. I may be wrong.

Making bearing sleeves a smidge thicker would help us use worn bearings.

Soluble Oil is a chlorine-free, water miscible metalworking fluid designed to emulsify easily and form a long-lasting, stable emulsion when mixed with water

Bronze should have soluable oil.

Well there it is in my Machinery's Handbook. Cast iron should be dry. I should have looked there first. Thanks to all.

Dan McEachern wrote: ↑
Tue Feb 13, 2024 2:15 pm
Cast iron= dry.

Dan, Scott Conger told me the same thing. I was unaware that cast iron should be dry. Thank you for your input.

I have always used oil-based when reaming. I'm reaming valve guides and decided to try water based. The company I work for uses water based in our cutting machinery. I'm not happy with progress so far. I ruined my reamer when I hit a hard spot in the casting. Before I finish. What do you all prefer ...

Junior and his twin brother Junior were riding in the back seat. Juniors were big'ns.

Here is another, and different, art option. Petrol Vibes makes and sells car profiles and neon signs. They don't have any Model T's currently, but you can send them a photo and they can create a laser-cut art profile. We recently bought one for a friend to match his Mustang GT350. You can select you...

Another option is to edit a photograph. I have a Samsung Galaxy S23 (the small one) and I edited a photo of my Runabout. I changed the style of photo. This is the new version.

George, there are electrotypes on Cimorelli's website that are close to your Coupe. They have wood rather than wire wheels. You're on your own if you want a drawing for your pickup. This is a link.

https://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/1926/default.htm

Sorry, George. I don't hire out. But I drew a charcoal drawing of my Thunderbird back in '88. I have not drawn my Model T. Maybe after I retire.

New test to see if the data miners are watching.

Pampers

My '26 Runabout does not have rivets there or holes for them.

Are wide-track spindle arms different from standard? I'm just throwing this out without ANY facts to fall upon.

My brother had a shipping container to park his rat rod and motorcycle. FB_IMG_1574437178353.jpg Menards sells VersaTube kits in almost any size you need. They assemble quickly and easily at a reasonable price. My dad has one that is just big enough to park his F350 flatbed. He has a crushed rock fl...

My first house was built in 1913 and had a Model T-sized detached garage with a dirt floor. In 1953 a group of kids put an extension on the lower half at the rear to hold a larger car. All of the kids signed their names and ages inside "This here carriage house."

Scott Conger's seat tool works perfectly for thus job. I've used it on my NH and the Zenith carb on my tractor.

September 20, 1926
10:22 am.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it, plus or minus a few days.

Is it possible to use, or modify for use, the vaporizer's linkage to work with an NH? I seem to recall seeing one like that somewhere.

Chris Martin wrote a book about Charles Montier. Title is "Charles Montier: and his French Racing Fords". I have a copy and saw one of the cars that was featured in the book at the Museum Of American Speed in Lincoln Nebraska. I believe that Chris is a forum member. PXL_20230725_180244780.jpg PXL_20...

After you get the rims off, grind down the pins to make them shorter. The repro rims have pins that are too long making removal difficult. I, and many others, have shortened pins with success. The real trick is getting the rims off to do the job.

Remember "Cash for Clunkers"? That was the Anti-Preservation League.

The leaf count varied by body style but shape did not. UK cars were lower and might have a different shape.

According to the encyclopedia, 8-leaf, non-tapered, rear with the main drilled for oilers was the same from 18-27.

Check the Encyclopedia. Go to the "Springs" section for year by year changes.

https://www.mtfca.com/model_t_encyclopedia/s-t/

Wonderful! That made my day!

Steve's post, by the way.

Speaking of tires, those in photo 8 appear to be packed with sand. They have some type of fabric lining around the beads.

Here is something else to check, Martin. I had similar symptoms when going into high on my first drives. I had a badly worn front drive shaft bushing. The noise was from the driveshaft bouncing inside the bushing. I replaced the bushing and that fixed it. It's easy to check the bushing's condition. ...

I miss Scott's advice too since he quietly stopped posting. I believe I know why he stopped, but this is the wrong thread for that discussion. And he may not want me to ruffle those feathers. I like this forum, but I would risk getting booted for standing up for a friend.

I have no X and no holes. I adjusted rod bearings a few weeks ago and now only numbers 1 and 4 still have shims. I will be replacing three rods (one is practically new) in the next teardown. So, I will be watching this thread.

Success!!!!

Test 4 full width

Test 5 at 3:4 50MP

Test 2 at 9:16

Test 3 at 1:1

Test 4:3 ratio

While we're on the subject of shackle oilers, I have manhole oilers on my '26. I keep a small stash of them in the shop because they keep disappearing. I tap them in and they seem to be tight but they pop out during a drive. How do you guys keep them installed? Sealant of some kind? I apologize, Rog...

I believe you are thinking of Luxford who was looking for .015"-over solid lifters for an open valve engine. It seems that he found some. https://www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=40112 I am looking for standard-size adjustable lifters. I don't need them just yet, but Dave at Chaffin's said t...

I scooped about a quarter pound of grease out of this brake shoe. It doesn't look like that anymore, having done a proper rebuild.

The phenolic material inside the timer appears to be maroon in color. That would indicate a Tiger Timer, which is a good roller type. I have one that has nice and smooth roller surface and it works very well. Having smooth transitions between the metal contacts and maroon material is important to ke...

Tim, this is how Steve Jelf checks oil level. He only opens the petcocks to check the level then closes them.

I hate being the bearer of bad news or making doom-and-gloom predictions. But, it’s best to face the awfulness of reality than to talk yourself into believing a lie. Those who have chosen to take the blue pill and sink into the ether, content that everything is going to be just fine, might think the...

Why do you want to pull the head? Is something obviously wrong? I would not remove the head without cause and a plan. Old and rusty head bolts can snap and spoil your day. I don't want to sound negative. I'm pulling for you and suggest caution.

I made a reaming guide for valve stems. Now to fabricate a clamp for it. I love it when a plan comes together.

The first and third from the last photo's car is two of the best era photos I have ever seen showing the one year only 1921 green shade headlamp lenses. The driver's side rotated a bit more than did the right side lens. Must have been before the flat edges were added to prevent lenses from rotating...

I offered to sell my beloved Thunderbird (owned 36 years) to provide space and cash to buy my wife (together 47 years) her dream car, a first-gen Camaro. She would have none of that. She enjoys cruising in style and comfort in the Thunderbird. But she likes riding in the Model T more. She's a keeper...

The pin slot was introduced in 1921. This is from the encyclopedia. 10/28/21 Added 3/32” to under side of cup, added slot for stop pin in bottom. Brought drawing up to date by specifying outside of cup to be machined and nickel plated, changed distance between lugs which hold throttle and lead rods ...

CW, The bronze material of these gearboxes has a very low work-hardening limit. Once annealed, it can be stretched about 15% before breakage can occur. I did the same task that you are doing and researched the metallurgy to ensure success. You cannot just heat the casting and pry it open in one step...

GREAT. You have restored my faith. Here's a bit more. Just kiss with the 60. Fine lap Valve & seat. Note lap line on valve. Should be too wide. Contact should be higher than center. On the upper half of valve, but not to top edge. Intake contact area should be .060". Exhaust .080-.090". You move(na...

I read on Hemmings this morning that forum member Todd Touchberry and his wife are driving their T from South Carolina to California right now to raise awareness and donations for Hydrocephalus Awareness. They left Friday with a planned 13-day journey. Has anyone here heard from Todd or know their p...

The notch needs to be toward the rear to clear the lifter.

This is interesting. I have another cam nut coming as part of the thrust kit. I'll have to put them together and measure the differences.

No, Craig. The threads are like any other cam. The machined cam nut on the left was machined to size but not completely deburred. It was purpose-made for this cam.

I have a cam that I got from a friend who got it from a friend and no one knows who ground it. It could be 10-20 years old for all we know. This is what I know about it. • It was ground from an early cam with short front lobe, • Lobe heels were ground below the shaft O.D. requiring a thrust kit, • L...

I found a drawing on this forum or one of our suppliers' websites that showed the factory dimensions. That was a few years ago and don't have it now. I search may locate the drawing.

I got the lifter out. There was a little flex in the tube. I got the lifter head started against the tube. I cut down a spare pushrod from my Thunderbird and gently tapped the lifter down from above. The pushrod is the same diameter as the valve stem.

I am replacing the cam, valves and lifters with the engine in my car. The oil tube is blocking the rear lifter head. I don't want to remove and disassemble my engine for a simple job. What have you done to get the lifter out?

Yes, Frank. A Neway cutter set (46, 31 & 60 degree) is on the list. I was waiting until I knew which pilot to order. I'll make a reaming fixture like what Scott Conger posted in an earlier thread. That will hold the reamer in alignment.

A feeler gauge is not always adequate. There is an option if you just want to check lash but don’t want to pull the head. I used a dial indicator with the tip against the top of the valves, through the sparkplug hole. I made a bent extension to get from the hole to the valve head. Dan Hatch has the ...

Yeah, Mark. I will be going oversized. A friend of mine locally has a set (well, 7) of new oversized valves. He wants to get rid of them and I can lighten his load. It's a win-win. The ONLY advantage I see using standard valves is that I don't have to pull the engine. I can't get a reamer to the rea...

I am preparing to buy new valves and lifters for my Runabout. I removed the 2-piece valves and measured the valve guide diameters. I took measurements at the top, center and bottom. Paragraphs 217 and 219 in the service manual say to insert a new valve and check for clearance. The maximum is .008”. ...

Actually, 2039 Howard would be that building on the far right in this photo, under the "Cook Electrically" sign. Oh well, the Ford dealership is interesting.

This is the old McFayden Stewart Ford dealership in 1934. Could this be the building where Clyde Manufacturing made the coil tester?

I grew up in Omaha and could not resist doing some research. I did not find information on Clyde Manufacturing except a listing of Edward Clyde in a city directory. But there was a new Ford dealership, McFayden Ford, that opened on the site where Clyde Manufacturing once stood. They opened in 1946 a...

This is a link to a thread with an article about Burt's Gallivan runabout. There are some good photos here. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/386561.html?1378527076 The article says that the engine has 2 1/4" Hispano Suiza aircraft valves with 5/8" stems. There is a photo showing a valve. ...

Instructions for installing an E-Timer say to add a 4 amp fuse to the coil box. Total run amperage needs to be somewhere below that.

John Codman wrote: ↑
Tue Nov 07, 2023 1:01 pm
... Jay made a joke! It didn't even mention politics.

No. Bob did.

After you get that beautiful firewall installed, do you think that you'll actually take the T out to tend to fences and irrigation pipes? Just asking.

I posted this photo a few weeks ago of 2 broken valve guides.

Today I was curious and cleaned one guide. Is that JBWeld on the guide? Bo, the engine "builder" strikes again.

Sheesh

Another concern I have is who is looking after Steve's house? Steve's crash was during warm weather. With temps dropping to freezing in Kansas, has anyone turned on the heat and checked the propane level? I would hate to have Steve arrive home to find broken pipes.

Email sent for the pulley.

That creeper is the earliest that I've seen. I would certainly like to get my hands on one of those.

AndyClary wrote: ↑
Wed Nov 01, 2023 9:18 am
You can plug the passages back up with soft brass like brazing rod.

Andy

I did not have brazing rod but my hardware store had brass screws. I cut pieces from the screw shank.

The hub looks good inside and has good threads. Both flanges are not flat. It looks like bolts were tightened and spokes swelled? My T has wire wheels, not wood, so I don't know if this is normal. I don't know if these can be flattened. Look at the photos and let me know what you think. PXL_20231029...

I have a hub that I removed from a wheel last weekend. It had a spindle in it that I needed. I did not look it over closely to assess its condition but I can get photos. I hope to get out to the shop tomorrow. It was in a 30 x3 1/2 wheel. I also have a 21" wheel with its hub. I can take that apart t...

I have 2 felloes (with spokes and hubs) but I don't know their sizes. One has "factory" dents and one was dented post-factory. I will get pictures and dimensions for you tonight. I bought them because I needed the '26-'27 spindles that were in them. I don't need the rest. I can remove the few remain...

m_p_dean@yahoo.com wrote: ↑
Sun Oct 22, 2023 3:37 pm
Another possibility might be a machine shop boring the guide bosses and installing valve guides as would be found in a modern engine.

I had not thought about that. A friend of mine might be able to install guides for me. Thank you Maurice.

Humblej wrote: ↑
Sun Oct 22, 2023 2:51 pm
Mark,
They are oriented right for being the upper guides. I would consider finding a new block if it were me.

You're right, Jeff. My brain was backwards.

I removed the valves in preparation for replacement. Wait a minute. What's missing here? PXL_20231022_141310136.jpg Found 'em. PXL_20231022_141524614.jpg Why did they break off? More confusing is why were they installed loose over the stems UPSIDEDOWN!? They came out just as shown in my photo. Now w...

This is not so much as additional information about the trailer but I like these campers from 1922.

My fan pulley was a little loose. It appears to have a shim in it that's coming apart. I would appreciate any advice on where to get a new shim. I didn't see any on our vendors' sites. I prefer using an original pulley but may consider the modern version.

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