MTFCA Forum

Coupe is being traded next weekend, parts car is still available. Asking $2500 for that with 4 wire wheels and the Ruckstell. Can help get paperwork for it

Any time I see a Model T with a distributor, or running only on battery - I instantly know why. Any "fix" that doesn't result in an operable magneto is a patch job. I don't mean to insult anybody nor denigrate their work, but the permanent cure is to get the magneto operational. Oh absolutely, but ...

Tens of thousands of Model Ts have run millions of miles on "BAT". Your magneto may have an open mag post connection or a shorted one. The mag post is part of the mag coil circuit. Unfortunately it's that coil ring itself. Tried with 2 other known good posts, and tried zapping it with a battery to ...

Ok, I decided I'm just going to leave it as is for right now, and the next owner can do what they want. The Thomas distributor will go with the car and it seems just fine to use once the points are cleaned up and the condensor is replaced. The parts car that goes with the coupe should also have a go...

I just pulled one of those distributors that was down on where the timer goes, the ideal of grinding some off the cam shaft just did not do the trick on this one, the guy used teflon tape to try to hold the rotor tight from jumping time, it now has the upright distributor on it and running fine. wh...

My 1912 van runs on a small 14AH 12 volt battery all day in city driving on promotional work. You do not, ever, have to recharge during a day's work. A full size battery would run for a week or more. Your choice. spend dollars on a dubious update distributor, or adopt a battery as many T owners hav...

Please explain why you consider it a “hack job”. All Model T ignition switches have three positions, Magneto, Battery, and Off. Just keep the switch in the battery position and use a 12 volt battery. It's just that if you have to charge the battery every so often while running cause it doesn't char...

Easiest thing to do would be to just run the coils off of a 12 volt battery. A decent battery will last a long time without having to be recharged. One of my T’s has a non working magneto and I run it that way. Runs great! The problem I have with that is that I am currently looking to sell my car f...

You may only need to clean the mag post contact. I'd also check the switch and wiring. I did check everything out, and unfortunately I came to the conclusion that a wire or one of the coils is broken inside the transmission. There were a few bad connections, but the magneto was making 0 volts and 0...

Texas distributors used to be OK units, but its been 2 decades since I have installed them for others. You could stay with the stock system but run the ignition system on a separate 12V battery. An ignition defecated battery will run for several days on a full charge. I knew a guy that ran his T on...

Easiest thing to do would be to just run the coils off of a 12 volt battery. A decent battery will last a long time without having to be recharged. One of my T’s has a non working magneto and I run it that way. Runs great! The problem I have with that is that I am currently looking to sell my car f...

Dan McEachern wrote: ↑
Tue Aug 13, 2024 4:56 pm
You really don't need a pin to drive the gear on the camshaft. The pressure from the nut should be sufficient to get the job done. More important to make sure the two gears are properly centered with each other.

Ok good to know, the Thomas distributor is looking more feasible now

So since my T's magneto decided to let go over the weekend, I've been looking for solutions aside from pushing it off a cliff or setting it on fire. I was looking at the Ranch distributors, but I don't much like that you have to grind down the end of the camshaft, and I've heard mixed reviews about ...

Lowering price to $8500 for the coupe, parts car, and everything I have with it. The magneto inside the transmission seems to have just died, and I don't have the time or the motivation to fix it. Still runs great on battery, no other issues. I did also end up fixing the exhaust leak, turns out the ...

Make me an offer, will sell parts car separately

Still available

Looks like my issue was a nearly shorted wire from the mag to the ignition switch, and the magnets needed to be recharged. Ran a new wire up to the junction block, and zapped the magneto to recharge, and it runs good again

Ok, I have no idea what it could be. My ignition switch is fine, and I ran a new wire from the magneto to the ignition switch. And it still won't even try to pop when it's on the mag

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Thu Jun 27, 2024 10:35 pm
You best be very careful not to introduce ANY DC voltage into your magneto !!!

I mean just swap the wires on the switch to see if it'll run in the magneto position, make sure the switch is good. I could also run a new wire from the mag to the switch, but I think this is easier

If I'm thinking about this correctly, the only things that could be bad are the ignition switch or the wire from the mag to the ignition switch. I know everything after the switch is fine because it runs on battery, and it uses the same wire out of the switch for both battery and magneto, and I know...

Repop switch? Does the switch feel firm in the 3 positions or sloppy/loose? Check magneto output. If dead, your switch could have introduced voltage & wiped the magnetic charge. The switch was a little loose, someone was in it before and didn't put it back together tight, but no change. I wonder if...

The mag pickup on top of the trans is working fine, and I'm getting 9v at a very low idle, and it goes up to 14v very quickly. My ignition switch was a little iffy, but I cleamed it up and it's got good continuity from the MAG post to the COIL post, and same with BAT in that position. The red wire u...

Drove my T to work today, and all was good on the way down, all good on the way back until I got to 5 miles from my house. The car sputtered once or twice and stopped. Pulled over, checked it out, and it started right back up on battery ignition. When I turn the switch to the mag it just dies, and e...

Still available, may be able to deliver within reasonable distance. Need it gone, will take $12000 for everything and can probably help get paperwork for the touring

May trade for 1950s or older car, or T or A roadster pickup that's been gone through

I've been loving this T since I got it this past September and fixed it up over the winter. Unfortunately, to make a long story short I'm losing shop space, and I won't be able to work on it at home, so sadly I have to sell it and my parts car. The '26 coupe is in nice shape, the body is incredibly ...

So did you check the D.S. also? A shattered D.S. bearing inner race and/or bearing will exhibit the symptoms you are experiencing. My plan now is to pull it completely apart and check it out, the axle bearings seemed a bit worn. When I install it I'm going to use my known good driveshaft off my ori...

Well, good news and bad. Bad news is I can't actually find anything wrong with the Ruckstell that would make that knocking noise, everything seems tight. Good news is that means I'm not running it, gonna pull it apart to rebuild or at least check out first

Ok, I've got a couple reprint manuals ordered from Lang's. Gonna pull the driveshaft and take a look inside the diff next, and what I see there will decide what I do.

What is the difference between driving on the old rear end and the "new" rear end? In your words its this: "But there's a really bad clanking/knocking coming from the front now, I assume it's the u joint, possibly driveshaft bearing," Don't get caught in the old wives tale that Ford made the Model ...

I mean, I agree, and I will be going through it at some point, but I don't see how it's any different than me driving on my previous rear end that was also a complete unknown in this car that was parked since 1987. I drained and refilled the oil and there was no metal in it, checked that the axle be...

I'll get to it at some point, I was debating swapping the known good u joint and driveshaft bearing from my other rear end, but ended up not doing that and apparently paid the price. I did give it a cursory look and the axles didn't really have any play, I put on new seals, and changed the oil. Righ...

So I picked up a parts car with a Ruckstell a few weeks ago, and just got around to swapping the Ruckstell into my coupe today. Unfortunately it had a few issues, just wanted a second opinion before I order a few parts. The Ruckstell itself is in excellent shape and shifts nicely, so no issues there...

Got one, thanks!

Sorry I miss read the part needed. What is wrong with the contact that you have? Except for the crack (supperglue maybe) looks like it should work fine unless there is more damage that cant be seen or are the threads stripped? It appears to be made of rubber? Or something similar? And it's just sta...

Mark Gregush wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 27, 2024 12:13 pm
https://www.modeltford.com/item/6983C.aspx

Yeah, I saw that, but I also need the contact plate piece too, I was wondering if anyone on here had a good used one of those and/or the button before I buy the whole new reproduction switch assembly

Looking for a new horn button for my '26 coupe, I didn't realize how bad the original was until now. My bracket is in good shape, and Lang's stocks the bakelite button itself but I can't buy just the contacts. Here's a picture of what I need:

ThreePedalTapDancer wrote: ↑
Thu Apr 25, 2024 8:34 pm
Here you go.

https://jandshotrodasylum.com/items-for-sale

Oh perfect! Definitely buying one of those viton tipped needles!

Ok, will do

So I have a Stromberg OF and LF, and I want to get one of them working to put on my car this summer, probably the OF because it seems like it's all good to go, just was sitting on a shelf so there's some dust and grit inside I have to clean out. The LF needs a new needle and seat very badly, and the...

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Looking for an aftermarket intake for my '26 coupe. I've got a Waukesha Ricardo head and a Stromberg carb I'm currently rebuilding so I'd like to get something that maybe flows a bit better than stock to go with it. Not set on any one in particular, but something like a Metz, Waukesha Ricardo, or si...

VasaTrail wrote: ↑
Wed Apr 24, 2024 6:03 pm
Yes. It does fold stock steering wheel.

Awesome, definitely interested. I sent a PM on that and one of the exhaust cutouts

Interested in the fat man wheel adapter, this lets you fold a stock T wheel correct?

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If you put the shift lever on the left side you won't have to patch the hole in the middle of the floor when you decide that your shoe makes it difficult to get around the Ruckstell shift lever. I'd be a bit worried about the space on that side anyway though, it's already so difficult to get my lef...

Oh even better! I wasn't able to find a rubber mat for a '26 coupe though, maybe I'll have to adapt one for a roadster or something? Michael, when my Dad and I restored his father's (my grandfather) 1927 coupe, back in 1970, we didn't know the floor was covered with carpet, so I bought a black rubb...

Oh even better! I wasn't able to find a rubber mat for a '26 coupe though, maybe I'll have to adapt one for a roadster or something?

speedytinc wrote: ↑
Mon Apr 22, 2024 8:12 am
Added thought for convince.
I drilled a round hole a bit larger than the shift knob.
I don't have to remove the knob to pull the floorboard.

Good call, I think I might do that and just have a plate on the floor to cover it up

Kenny Edmondson wrote: ↑
Mon Apr 22, 2024 7:47 am
Have you considered installing the left hand shifter that goes through the parking brake lever slot?

I was thinking about that, but since I have the original center shifter in nice shape, I decided I'm going to use that instead

Ah, good point. I've got a '26 coupe and the normal Ruckstell shifter on the back of the trans if anyone has a template for that, but otherwise I'll use the cardboard. Been long enough since I needed to do something like this I forgot about CAD (cardboard aided design)!

So I picked up a Ruckstell axle this weekend to put in my car, and it seems to be good enough to just throw in once I give it a quick service, but I just realized that I need to cut a hole in my floor for the shifter, and it looks like it might be a bit annoying to measure for. Just wondering if the...

The mag post pickup I have seen before, and it is available today from the parts houses. Yours has an oversized tube when compared with the ones now available. I have never seen one with the front connection made to the generator mount. It looks like it might be a replacement casting, complete with...

Safe and sound in its new home for the time being. Next weekend I'll go prep the Ruckstell for the swap and see if I can't get the engine running, then the weekend after I'll drive my coupe down, swap axles, and drive it home

jsaylor wrote: ↑
Sat Apr 20, 2024 7:16 pm
You can get the outside oil line kit from any of the parts vendors, Langs, Snyders, Chaffins, etc.

I did notice that, and it does seem to be a fairly close copy of this, but I didn't realize this was an original accessory you could get. Hadn't seen this before

Some of the goodies from the bins of parts:

Yeah I've seen a couple internal ones, and an external one or two, but this is pretty interesting. Should definitely be good for my motor when I go up steep hills! I'll get some pictures of some goodies I found in the bins of parts when I get home, there's some good bits and pieces

I saw it had this oil line that looks aftermarket, does anyone know what this is, or if I can maybe adapt this to my '26?

It's in pretty nice shape aside from the body, I almost wonder if it isn't the original body to this frame

Just picked up a '27 touring that has some nice wire wheels and a Ruckstell that will be swapped into my coupe, and I'll put the wood wheels and original rear from my coupe back in this. Looks to be probably 95% complete, but it's in pieces, and is gonna need some metal work and paint. I'll post som...

Ah, yup. I don’t know exactly what I'm looking at, but it doesn't look great and something smells slightly burnt. Definitely going to need to be rebuilt

Thanks for all the info! I'll open the dust cover and clean the commutator and check the brushes, but if not I'll just send it out to get reworked

Finally fixed the running issue with my T only to find that my generator isn't actually charging the battery. I guess I never actually bothered to check before this. Before I got the car it sat since '87, and I've heard talk about generators needing to be polarized, does this apply to the T? I do kn...

Surprisingly it doesn't mind the cold much at all! Takes a couple tries to start but runs great afterwards. It doesn't do very well in the mud though, I wish they still sold offroad style tires in this size, but I could only find ones with regular road tread

Good news! I finally figured out my running issue. Turns out it was a combination of carburetor, the timer being very iffy, and one of the spark plug wires arcing on the coil box bracket. Just have to figure out why the generator isn't charging now

I don't have one, but I also wouldn't mind getting one for my car. Might be something someone can recreate? It doesn't look too difficult to cast

They look like T wheels to me. A model wheels are easy to identify. They have a raised ridge pressed outwards between each stud hole. This stiffens up the hub so the wheels do not crack between the stud holes like some T wheels do. Allan from down under. Ah, I see what you mean, I had never noticed...

I know the seller said a couple wheels might be a bit damaged, so that could explain the larger holes on the one. As far as the front wheels go, I have no idea if it has front brakes. Would be nice if it did have front brakes, and those would definitely go on my coupe, but I'm not gonna hold out too...

Ok thanks. I wish I had better pictures, but this is about all I have till I actually pick it up in a few weeks

Picking up a '27 Touring in a few weeks, planning on taking the wire wheels and Ruckstell for my '26 coupe, then making it run and pass it along to someone else. I'm just curious if anyone can identify the wire wheels from a couple pictures, just want to make sure they aren't A wheels or something. ...

Very nice original brass horn, the paint is flaking, but I don't see any dents in it aside from some very minor ones around the rim of the screen and overall looks to be in excellent condition. Seems to work fine if you blow through it. Asking $300 plus shipping, make an offer. 20240323_113401.jpg 2...

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Looking for a floor mat or carpet for my '26 coupe since mine is disintegrating. Would prefer a rubber mat but I'll take what I can get, not too worried about originality.

Ok, got the carb back together with a new Viton needle and seat, mixture needle from Lang's, and a gasket kit! And it runs worse than before... I'm stumped now. Triple checked everything, and I can't find anything wrong. Does anyone offer a rebuild service for the Holley NH? I think at this point I ...

Got it, I asked him about it. Still gonna get the normal viton one, probably just keep it as a spare and get rid of the ball type one if it's really as bad as everyone is saying

Ok, I'll grab a new needle and seat too, might as well since they're cheap. If it doesn’t help I'll just keep the ball type one as a spare

Ok, got the carb apart, and I definitely found a few things. I apparently need to drain my sediment bowl cause there was a very small amount of water in the bottom of the carb, probably just condensation cause the weather is so strange here. The float was adjusted a bit too low so I fixed that, and ...

Ok, I'll check that today. Should the float be basically level when the needle and seat are closed?

Finally had a beautiful day, and I got the T home from the shop today. Got the new hot air tube on (thanks Steve!) and took it for a longer drive. That hot air pipe definitely made a difference, but I think the carb is still behaving a little weird. Once the engine gets nice and hot I have to turn t...

I don't suppose you're coming up towards Burlington VT at some point? That's a really awesome trailer, would love to have it but I'm also a bit far

Ok, got a chance to drive it again today, and I definitely solved the overheating problem. No losing power after a long drive. Still has the squeak, which I'm certain is the water pump, I'm going to install zerk fittings because I don't think the grease cups are working especially well. Only issue I...

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I don't necessarily need this for my car, but I'd be really curious to see what it sounds like, I haven't seen one of these before

My bands definitely were too tight before, except the reverse one. The brake band might still be slightly tight, but I got it as loose as I could while having a slight amount of tension on the spring so the nut can't back off. I think the spring for that band specifically should probably be replaced...

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 17, 2024 12:57 pm
Here's what hot air pipe you'll need - notice the flattened are and the manifold clamp connection. I'll check my stash.

Yeah, that's definitely the one I need, looks like like the one I had except not cracked in like 4 places!

RajoRacer wrote: ↑
Sat Feb 17, 2024 11:46 am
They're called a hot air pipe & if you have the stock combination choke/mixture rod, you'll need the correct one with the indent for the rod to clear.

Got it, thanks. Yeah I was gonna order a repop but Lang's seems to only have the '25 and back one but I need a '26-27

I'll retorque the head when it's good enough weather next, and check the valves if it happens again, but between the brake and clutch bands, fan, coolant, and mixture I think I probably fixed it. I think I have an exhaust leak is why it's popping, but it's definitely doing it a lot less now. Gonna p...

Ok, working on the '26 again trying to figure this out. Looks like my water pump and fan are fine, I'm a bit low on coolant cause I didn't tighten a hose clamp enough, the carburetor was a bit lean and also icing over so I definitely need that intake heater thing, whatever it's called. Going to chec...

Ok, I did take the hogs head off when I replaced the bands. I'm certain I didn't bend them out of shape when I did that. I may have the brake band adjusted too tight though, I dunno.

I'll be checking the valve lash for sure, should be around .015 ish right?

Ok I'll double check all that when I get back to it Saturday. I need to find a replacement for that carb heater thing still, the one on it isn't usable anymore. What do you mean by HH?

That could definitely be an issue with the carburetor, I haven't done anything to it yet aside from making sure the bowl and jet was clean, and adjusting it with the knob on the dash. Adjusting it while it was driving didn't really change anything, so it seemed to be set correctly, but I guess it co...

Two things to check. First, check your speed. IMHO, 40mph is punishing in a standard T. It would be happier at 30 mph. Second, lubricate your fan pulley well and see if the squeal goes away. Allan from down under. Ok, good to know. I did redo the fan bearings but it might need some extra grease aft...

I'll definitely re-torque the head next time I work on it, I haven't checked since I installed the new head. It's a '26 coupe, no thermostat, and the coolant is very slightly low. The water pump was stuck when I got the car, but I freed it up, greased it, checked the pulley, but it might be a bit st...

Wondering if anyone might have suggestions on what I should look for, I took my '26 coupe out for a longer drive today to test out my new exhaust, and it seems like it's losing power when the engine gets good and hot. The first mile or so I was flying along, probably as fast as I've ever taken the c...

Will do, if it's anything exciting. If I happen to find someone with a hydraulic press big enough to fit it I might just go that route

I would build a rectangular frame out of 4” x 4” beams wide enough for the lid to slide in and maybe 20” tall. It should have horizontal feet that will allow it to stand upright. It should be tall enough for a bottle jack, a straight board the width of the trunk and a couple of blocks under each co...

Seems I'm on the home stretch getting my coupe back on the road, so hopefully I can finally get the trunklid fitting well enough to latch. I've been trying to adjust it all kinds of ways, and so far I've only gotten it to catch on the lip of the sheet metal panel, not where it's supposed to. This pa...

Another thing to think about, if that car has been sitting 20-30 years you should probably replace the bands in the transmission. They break down with time, it'll come apart and block the oil galley. You won't feel or hear it until it's too late, then its bearings. That sure is a good looking car, ...

You might consider using these manifold gaskets instead of the one-piece version you currently have. They are the original style and help to maintain the straightness of your exhaust manifold. If your manifold is already warped, then you're stuck with the one-piece gasket. https://www.modeltford.co...

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