MTFCA Forum

My ‘26 (pictured above) mirror works fine and adjusts easily with the top glass closed or tilted open. I’m surprised how effective the hand-operated wiper is with mist or light sprinkling.

My ‘26 RPU

Robert - I used one piece of lacing on my ‘26. As John mentioned above, I centered it under the clip, worked down each side, trimmed and tucked each end inside the shell. This is how I found the old one. Whether this is correct way or not, it seemed to work. My hood is far from a precision fit on my...

Craig - a quick internet search show a couple types of flathead cradles. If you weld they are a simple fabrication project. I made mine out of some 3/8” steel plate and scrap square tube - with ACE Hardware casters. For any pre-8BA flattie, I use the exhaust flange for my engine stand adapter and cr...

1940 Erie and Uncle Buck…

Allan, Dan - thanks for the clarification and info regarding accessory front headlight bars. My truck has a front bumper - someone may have added the bar to display license plate.
Thanks, Chuck.

Robert - attached photos of my January 1926 built RPU headlights and bar. As mentioned above, early headlights w/o bar or headlights with the early bar should work.

Here are a few more photos of the Montier.
As a Model T owner and a Mullin Museum docent, I enjoyed every chance I got to see the Montier.
Chris, I thoroughly enjoyed your book!

Eric - my 1926 roadster pickup has three holes.

Bill - here are pictures of my ‘26.

Brought a Model A home to keep Uncle Buck company!

Jeff - I like my plate under the radiator - legal second plate but not too obvious. John makes a good point about hand cranking - you can do it, but watch your back as your are extended over the bumper.

Rich - the cars still get exercised - locally and at events. The Nethercutt’s 1931 Bugatti Type 51 Dubos Coupe was at the Benedict Castle Concours in Riverside this past Sunday - shown by J.B. And Dorothy’s great grandson. It looked and sounded great!

Gerrit - not mine, but I was surprised by the similar front axle to my ‘26 RPU. A little research showed a photo of Andre Citroen with Henry Ford at Highland Park. Interesting that Citroen 5CV had cowl fuel tank and more fully louvered hood sides in 1923 -changes the T wouldn’t have till 1926.

Gerrit - the Citroen 2CV may not be a Model T, but the 1923 5CV comes close… check out the front axle.

Chris - note that the Nethercutt is in Sylmar - north end of the San Fernando Valley (Selma is south of Fresno). The Nethercutt is one of the great museums - for automobiles and a lot more. Enjoy!

Nate - here is a picture of my ‘26. As mentioned already, I had to straighten the u-joint ears in the adjusting linkage as well as grind a little off the ears to ensure smooth operation.

At lunch with Ed Iskendarian on his 101st birthday last July. Ed talks fondly of El Mirage and Muroc dry lakes and still calls ‘em gow jobs.

Dave - pictures of my ‘26 RPU.

I use 6 volt Optimas in 3 of my cars. One lasted 14 years before I had to replace it, though they probably average 8 to 10 years. Cost more to buy, but amortized over average battery life keeps me using them.

Bruce - front mount on my ‘26 RPU.

Harvey - as mentioned above, the Brassworks radiator for my ‘26 came with the small bag with the ears, rivets and radiator petcock. The ears will help you adjust the radiator shell and the neck. I used my old radiator and ears as a starting point to measure placement for riveting the ears on the new...

Jeff - good advice from John and Scott. I used Loctite 660 on one of my 1926 wire wheel hubs. I also used a prick punch to raise the metal on the inside circumference of the hub - worked well.

“Uncle Buck”

A neighbor picks me up in his 1909 Sears Motor Buggy - what a blast!

Though Dietz lanterns are still made(off-shore)- these look old and military (olive drab paint)to me. Most that I have seen and own are tinplate (rust resistance) with automotive cowl lamps being painted black. An exception was during WW2 when Dietz had to use terne plate and painted general purpose...

Extensions to clear running boards - tall jack stands for insurance.

1926 front bumper bracket.

CatGuy - I found a couple loose wheel studs on the front wire wheel hubs on my ‘26. My hub holes were not wallowed out - just the stud heads and the swedge surfaces worn enough to keep me from tightening the wheel nuts. The top photo shows that even a stud that’s tight does not have a lot material k...

The dashboard portion of the Marvel Mystery Inverse Oiler…

Scott - picture of my ‘26.

Dan - the BW radiator for my ‘26 came with the bottom stand-offs already soldered onto the radiator and the top ones - where the screw attaches - loose with pop rivets in the bag with the petcock.

Dan - glad the picture helped - holler if you need anything else. Post a pic of your ‘26 when she’s on the road.

Dan - here is photo of oil screw on my ‘26.

Rich - my neighbor has a 1909 Sears Auto Buggy - so Sears was dealing in horseless carriages. I don’t know if that extended to Ford or other makes.

Mark, though not an oil can, I’ve repaired a leaking bottom seam on a 1940’s Dietz kerosene lantern with spar varnish - poured a little in the lantern base, swished it around to cover the seam, let it dry for a few days. Five plus years later - still no leaks.

Model T’s representing at Conejo Valley Cars & Coffee this morning!

Mark - I recently installed the vendor kit on my ‘26. Hardest part was removing remnants of original rubber. Rubber fit well - a little Armor All for lubrication. Kit had a little extra length.

My ‘26 roadster pickup (Jan 1926) with light bar has the impression on the right fender - appears smooth on the left fender.

This was my grandfather’s first dump truck - a ‘27 International - the first of many hay-binders, as he called ‘em. I think this truck is brand new - evidenced by white markings on the frame. He kept his nine draft horses - Percheron and Belgian Brabant - till he trusted motor vehicles.

Merry Christmas!

Born and raised in Portland, Maine, I don’t remember anything like this on Forest Avenue in late 1950’s - but a couple miles away on Marginal Way were scrap metal yards with 1920’s and 1930’s cars stacked high - may have been the remnants when this part of Forest Ave was cleaned up. The trees in the...

Dave - attached are pictures of my ‘26 RPU - tack strip flange and attempt to measure pivot location - let me know if you need more info. Chuck.

Joe - not sure how the factory did it, but I recently rewired my ‘26 RPU - every cable and wire including light sockets and thimbles. Pretty straight forward job - chassis wires to terminal block; wired ignition/light switch loom through the dash and firewall hole to terminal block. I don’t know if ...

Dan - thanks for sharing specs - was thinking of making some out of aluminum.

Bob - Pat brings up an important point. Looking at your pictures, it looks to me like your reservoir is above the level of your master cylinder. If not, you will have problems. If you need to relocate the reservoir, it would be an opportunity to place it high enough to avoid needing a residual valve.

Bob - I assume you have installed disc brakes. Not sure which mechanism you are referring to, but if your reservoir is above the level of the calipers, I think you should be okay. If the reservoir is below the level of your calipers, or if you lack a firm pedal, you may need a 2 lb. residual pressur...

Bill - both my rims were frozen on the buckets still installed on the car. In addition to above advice, I’d add have some patience. I used PB Blaster (favorite penetrating oil) and squeezed the rims over several days till they moved freely inwards against the bucket. Then, wearing cheap split leathe...

Ron, I have a ‘26 RPU with stock engine (iron pistons, coils, 6 volt) and a KC Warford. With no speedo or tach, I don’t worry about MPH or RPM. I listen to my engine and use my gears and spark lever to keep it in the sweet spot.
Enjoy your car - don’t overthink the numbers.

Great video - thanks for sharing!

Lack of headlight cross bar - early ‘26?

Baillee loves her time cruising in Uncle Buck!
Our 10 year old rescue, her Corgi ears dominate her mixed breed features.

California State Automobile Association on my Olds.

Robert - I double clamped it with a modern clamp for a couple drives - removed modern clamp - been fine since.

Model T of the 26th “Yankee” Division - broken down in Seichprey, Toul Sector on April 20, 1918. Bad timing for a breakdown - Germans raided Toul Sector on April 20-21. Yankee Division was heavily engaged.

My ‘26 has a groove with a small hole to start the rubber seal. Have not seen original windshield frame with plating.

Michael - I’m with Scott. I open the passenger side of my RPU’s hood at car shows, and being a ‘26 you don’t see much past the coil box. I find the components of the disc brake kit to be pretty well thought out and would not substitute anything unless I had a mechanical reason to. My firewall is in ...

Disc brakes were added to my ‘26 RPU by previous owner - work really well.

The dam on my ‘26 leaked badly - found it had been JB welded in the past - oil leaked behind old JB Weld. I removed the old JB Weld - cleaned and sealed the seams - especially the upper corners - with Ultra Black. Dam has not leaked since.

Mark - my ‘26 had the upper clip attached to the radiator outlet. I made the lower clip attached to the timing cover/generator extension out of sheet metal. Make sure to leave enough slack in harness/clips to allow timer to rotate.

Erik - so sorry to hear about this. My thoughts and prayers are with your son for full recovery.
Best regards,

Chuck

Darel - couldn’t agree more. Uncle Buck flies our flag on Memorial Day, D-Day, July 4, Labor Day and Veterans/Armistice Day.

I use 6 volt Optima’s in my three 6 volt cars - just retired the Optima dated 2004 in my ‘40 0lds sedan - six cylinder flattie was starting to turn slow.

Robert, make sure your flapper moves freely. I put a new Anco on my ‘26 and had to file the slot in the pin retainer where the flapper rotates for clearance.

Ed turns 100 years old in July. His memory and depth of knowledge is incredible - whether talking about his mentor Ed Winfield, building his first cam grinder, or piecing together his F-head V8 T roadster for the dry lakes.

Gave Ed Iskendarian, the “Camfather” a ride in Uncle Buck on May 1st. What a way to start the month...

Steve - you have nothing to apologize for.

Take it back to Mercy Hospital - your baby got switched!

A previous owner installed disc brakes on my ‘26 roadster pickup. The brakes work great; the truck stops well for a vehicle with rear wheel brakes only and skinny tires. The discs are noticeable behind my wire wheels. Someone also added a water pump and KC Warford aux. trans - I ditched the pump but...

David - great video of Ed Iskendarian! I was honored to spend most of a day with Ed last year. We visited his old neighborhood where he built the Maxi F head V8 T roadster - which I think may still be in the NHRA museum in Pomona. We stood outside his old high school where he reminisced about shop c...

A lot of Model T’s call Thousand Oaks home - more than half a dozen within a mile or so from the La Quinta.
Welcome!

I named my ‘26 RPU “Uncle Buck”.

I have a two post for my other cars and with creative use of adapters to clear the running boards use it for my ‘26 RPU. I use high-lift jack stands to add stability/safety for the T pickup - nose-heavy and flexible.
If the T were my only vintage car, I would stick to a jack and regular jack stands.

We are old - but use the computer once in a while...I sure Dennis will be happy to answer any questions.

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