MTFCA Forum

I finished rebuilding my rear axle, now to stuff it back under the car before Hallows

Kids (and some grownups too) like to sit inside with "Mr. Boneypants" and let either their parents or friends take their picture.

Eric, you're correct, I'm drawing the 1909 Short Block for the Water Pump engine. After I make the Short Block, I'll draw the complete Engine Assembly, with the Transmission and the Water Pump assemblies. I'm doing this in a 2 page format mainly because there is just too much going on and into the ...

Richard, you say it is shaped different, how, is it shorter? I've seen some 1909 camshafts and the wear on the front bearing cam surface shows that the bearing is almost right up against if not against the front cam lobe. I'm wondering if they made that particular end thicker, so as to keep the lob...

Does anybody know what these look like? I know what the rear one looks like and the middle one, but the front one (according to catalogs) is for 24-27....so, is the 1909 front bearing different than this later one? Also need to know which way the bearing clip goes, at the moment I've got it drawn o...

Does anybody know what these look like? I know what the rear one looks like and the middle one, but the front one (according to catalogs) is for 24-27....so, is the 1909 bearing different than this later one? Also need to know which way the bearing clip goes, at the moment I've got it drawn on the ...

Not sure of the wording, but I do have a color cross section of this assembly that shows the placement of this hole quite clearly and its alignment with Grease/Dope Cup 2545.

Whilst rebuilding my rear axle and driveshaft, I came across an error in the drawing I made of the 22-27 driveshaft. The parts 2596, 2591 and 2591B were in the wrong alignment.

Also added the Spool Cap Screws 2584B and the rear axle "Pumpkin" for reference.

Thanks Kim! Here's my work in progress....still need to add the springs, retainers and pins....but the more I look at this and the further I go, I am starting to see that I'm going to have to add a few things I hadn't planed on (cross sections of a valve line....the relationship of the valve to gui...

Okay, on the Lifter Guides, they're pressed in from the crankshaft side of the block right? It's the only way I can figure it you'd be able to make the bottom of the guide flush with the bottom side interior of the block. Now as to the Valve Guides, which way does the flange flat face? Towards the ...

Wayne, I found that out too, I just didn't think it was necessary to mention it here, because the drawing would explain that in it's title. As I understand it, the front Cam Shaft bolt has a screw head and the middle one is a hex? I've even seen it as a stud with a nut on it. Is that some sort of f...

Okay, what am I seeing here, is the shiny looking thing a tube that goes over the other part or is it a dowel pin? Hard to tell from this picture (can't see the hole). You said it can go in for either side, so the hole in the block must be the same size as that flange? And that flange has a flat si...

1909EarlyWaterPumpEngineAssembly.jpg Been working on a project that is both rare and not much known (intimately) by most of the Model T world (with the exception of a few). The 1909 Water Pump Engine! The first 2500 or so cars had this configuration which changed somewhere around 1911, to Thermosyp...

Kim, looks like a really fun car, but it's a wee tad too old for the likes of I (all that brass), even though I like brass to look at, I don't relish the thought of polishing it all that much lol. If you have any pictures of your restoration on this car, I'd like to see them (especially the Firewal...

Okay, next installment, the 1915-1916 Wood Firewall Assembly, Engine Side . This is the side I usually put a wiring diagram on, but with the 15-16, there isn't much to connect one too. Since everything is connected to the Magneto Terminal on the Coil Box and from there went to the various connectio...

Allan , from what little I could decern about those brackets, I've numbered them 3640 and put them in a box on the side of the drawing. There wasn't enough differences to warrant a new drawing. 1915-1916FirewallAssembly-Interior.jpg If they don't look correct, please let me know so I can make any c...

Allan, these the ones you're talking about?

Okay, are there any other differences between our domestic cars and the Canadian version you folks have (like two step bolts per side in the Hood Former....still trying to figure that one out)?

Allan, got a picture of one? Would really like to see them.

Okay, here's what I've been up too....as of November of last year, my subscription for the drawing program I use (CorelDraw Graphic Suite) ran out. And since we were in a bit of a financial jam at that time, I wasn't able to renew it either. So I did the next best thing I could think of (5 days ago...

Okay, Donnie and Matt; I've had a spot of trouble with my program (the subscription ran out), so I've had to resort to "free trial" versions. The one I'm using currently is the basic one and is seriously limited in what I can do and or how I can do it and since it is a "Free Trial" I've got a limit...

Allan, you're absolutely right, probably not the assemblers fault at all! Probably the Designer/Engineer who drew up the assembly in the first place (I've had my "beat head against wall" moments with a good many of those folks in the past), but even after all the checks and rechecks that their depa...

From what I've been told from people who have (or had) one, the heating element pre-warms the Throttle side of the Carburetor and Manifold and is on a button, not a switch for momentary use. You're only supposed to hold the button for a few seconds only. It's supposed to help start a cold or iced o...

If you do it yourself, please take pictures of all the parts and either send them to me in a PM or post them here. I've done the Simmons Straight Thru, which is basically a Holley Straight, but Simmons made some modest changes to the basic Holley Straight for better performance (supposedly and as I...

You've only got 6 hub bolts, so how do you hold 12 spokes and keep them in position? Answer, you put the bolts between the spokes, then 6 bolts WILL hold 12 spokes firmly in position to the hub! Here, this may help you understand or decide to re-spoke your steel felloe wheels, but you'll have to bu...

Matt, You mean the diamond shaped logo, like the one here? DiamondLogo.jpg That's a metal plate with a silkscreen (and the idiot assemblers put the bloody rivets in the wrong place, they're supposed to be on the outside of the lines, not inside. The image is never supposed to be compromised that's ...

Matt Made a revision, some of the letters looked a bit narrow for the type face, so had to change them a bit, also added more curves on F and M, also took out the "muddy" look of the letter M (too many extra nodes, which made superfluous curves that just ruined the structure of the letter in compar...

You probably wouldn't notice the difference in line weight, since the larger letters are 0.04 and the smaller letters are 0.035. The difference is hardly noticeable, but when it comes to ink and print bleed it is necessary to make some adjustments to thickness, even if you use some sort of copier, ...

Ok, look at these and tell me if they're correct or not. BOX-A-.jpg Camping Box A 1 inch "ICE BOX" and all other letters "5/8" inch. BOX-B-.jpg Camping Box B "ICE BOX" is 1" and all other letters are "1/2" inch . BOX-C-.jpg Camping Box C 1 inch tall "ICE BOX" and all other letters are "1/2" inches ...

Also, it is not possible to post a PDF file here on the forum, so I'm gonna put them in my Gallery and they'll be in Logos. They'll be 300 dpi, Jpegs.

One other question, when the letter size goes down, does the line weight also shrink proportionally (in other words, gets thinner, slightly) ? The reason I'm asking is because when certain letters get smaller at the same line weight, they tend to fill in small areas of the letter...like the "A" for...

I'm trying to finish my 15-16 Firewall Assembly and I've come across a bracket called the "Butterfly Bracket" in Lang's website catalog. Does anybody know where this little bracket goes? I can't for the life of me find anyplace on the firewall that this thing would fit (or might be needed). Is it a...

White tires always seem to wear out quicker than black tires do (or so I've heard, they certainly get dirtier quicker than a black tire), maybe country roads are hard on tires of any kind also. I've had my tires (Canadian Goodyear) on my car since 1979, I've driven ( in that course of time about 40...

Did he measure SOAP, TOWELS, BREAD, LUNCH and DISH-PAN? They look a bit larger than those other letters...it may be an optical illusion and I might be a bit over cautious, but I'd like you to check and make sure, if you could please. :? Oh and did you also want that diamond logo on the under side o...

Do you have a picture of one of these screws? I'm wondering if they had a step down cut onto them to mate against the Cam Bearing Retainer or not....just curious.

RajoRacer » Tue Oct 01, 2024 5:11 pm
Cam bearing retainer bolts. - In this case, screws.

Steve, the retainer bolts are screws. Okay, did they have a jam nut on them then, because there seems to be a very clear hex left unpainted on the block where these screws would've been?

Lisa, there is something else you probably didn't or don't know about registering a car here in CA (besides the VIN being wrong)....every time (especially with an antique) they pass the VIN to the CHP to have them run it on their stolen car database. Since your car's registration went through and g...

5/8" for all the other letters would be pretty small (just a wee bit bigger than 1/2"), you sure you don't mean something a bit bigger, like say 3/4" for those letters. Also not all the letters are the same size....Eggs and Butter for instance are smaller, now they may be 5/8", but the rest of thos...

Harold....what are the two holes in the side of the block below the valves for? They've both got a hex looking form on the holes....what either went there or goes there? And is it anything that is actually supposed to be part of the engine?

Did it look anything like this one or the one above?

No problem, just tell me what size you need each to be (if you don't know the point sizes, measure their height in inches). I've already got the font set, so I can do them fairly quickly.

I've copied all the photos here and even the ones on the links from the old forum, but I still need to see parts of the block that aren't showing in any of these. So it looks like I'm going to have to start with my 24 engine and I have access to a 21's, a 16's and a 26's and then work my way back f...

I'm drawing all of the different variations of the engines, so I'll need any pictures you have of the 1911 block. I need to see those differences, if you've got pictures so I can draw them correctly. I also would like to have the variations of the 1909 block, both the water pump engine and the chan...

Got a question on the 1911 Engine Block....are the Intake and Exhaust ports on the side of the block threaded for some sort of insert between the manifold and the block? Also, on the 1911 Block is the oil fill a long tube running down the left side of the engine like on the 1909's? So, if any of yo...

Small correction to some lines that were in the wrong place and or not completed. 1919-1923FirewallAssembly-EngineSide2.jpg I haven't gotten round to the metal Firewalls yet, concentrating on all the wood ones first (and there are a bunch of those). But I can if I had pictures of one. The Low Cowl ...

Ok, made some changes, you're right the Firewall brackets should be on the engine side and not on the interior side. Don Lang caught it and I couldn't believe I missed it entirely, anyhoo, also forgot to add the Dash Choke Rod and had to change where the Dash Wiring Loom comes through the Firewall....

Running out of assemblies to do, so I thought I'd start in on putting the car chassis together assemblies, of course starting with mine (it's the one I know the best). Sooo, I'm starting with the Wood Firewall and since my car is a 22 and it is my understanding that the Low Cowl Wood Firewall ran c...

The ones I've seen looked to be some sort of heavy cardboard. Although a modern plasticized cardboard, might work better especially against moisture, because the ones I've seen (with the cardboard) were rather warped, probably due to either outright water damage or moisture trapped with in the door...

1912-HolleyH1-4550-3Screw-2.jpg Since the 4550 was made between the years of 1911 and 1912, it seems obvious that the 1912 version had to be a "New and Improved" carburetor...in that Holley went from the "2 screw" cover to a "3 screw" cover much like the later Holley G's. Although I couldn't find a...

Small change....it was brought to my attention that 4550 was built between the years of 1911-1912.
This was probably the 1911 version, the 1912 version would then be the 3 screw cover.

Corey, if you think of anything else let me know....you mentioned an o-ring under the cap....what size is it, so I can add that too.

Ahhh, Corey, do you have the diameter of that "rope" gasket?, could it possibly be fudged with cording if the diameter isn't too of the wall. Cording has a braided exterior and a woven core. Used to grease soak it and use it in my Model A's water pump for packing. It wore better than the vendor stu...

1912-1913HolleyH1-2Screw-2.jpg Does anybody know what the part number for the bowl gasket is (I gave it 4477, but I've no idea if that's correct or not)? It isn't listed in the factory pages, so I thought maybe it's the same one as the NH, would really like to know what fits this bowl, so I can put...

One other thing, if you've never replaced the cork bumper (6171C), you should. That's what gives you the correct max opening for the low speed flap. it is under that top brass screw on the throttle side. One thing that puzzles me though, why use a Kingston L-4 on a Speedster? One of the throatier H...

The corrections.

Corey, do you think that the Holley G's gasket set would fit the 2 screw? Just wondering, if I should include that P/N or not.

In Bruce's Encyclopedia, he lists this carburetor as 1912-1914 Holley 4450 (2 screw), but in the page directly preceding this assembly, he shows Fords 1912 Holley 4450 (which is also a 2 screw) carburetor, but with the body that from the pictures I've been sent is identified as the H1 (which I'm al...

They're in the Gallery, under VowellArt

They can also be found from the main page, under "Resources", "Drawings", which contains all of my drawings....so far.

This is the assembly drawing of a brass bodied Kingston L-4. LangsL-4-BW.jpg My Kingston L-4....it's what started me on my project of drawing the whole bloody car, mainly because nobody has ever done it before! The dimension for the bowl nut differences are; the top one is for the brass body and th...

Thanks guys, these are great, now I can put the Model S (2 screw) to bed and the H1 sometime in the next 2 weeks or so (takes time to look up and put both the vendor part numbers and the factor part numbers and change dates on two drawings).

Corey.....Hmmm, it looks like it is triangular....the outside are flat with a rounded center and yes I think you're correct about it being an original...the picture from the parts book was a kind of fuzzy, but that tab on the back of the valve, is pretty much flared like this one is. Allan, you're ...

Ok, searching through my pictures of the 2 screw that I was sent, I can't find one pic of the float valve needle. So, are the triangular or square? I know they've got a tail on the end that plays against the float lever, I just need to know what the valve needle looks like. Also in this same vane, ...

No, but I would dearly love to see pictures of it both assembled and apart! When you do restore it, take plenty of pictures of both the exterior and it's interior parts and post them here. I did the 5 ball Kingston a few years back, but not the 4 ball. I would really like to see the insides of one ...

Kim, I recently sent you a missive saying I hadn't seen your Buffalo Posting....I found it, so please disregard that PM. This carburetor looks like it will be fun (another forward facing side draft carb....and here I thought only racing carburetors were built that way). Although I'm still a bit ske...

Jeff, yes, I'd like to see the RHD Holley G too and any linkage differences as well.

Jim, that looks like a Holley S 2 screw....does it have a data plate that tells you the model number?

Michael, that looks an awful lot like a Gross Jet, only these days they've got a stainless ball, never seen one with a glass one before. Not so sure they'd work very well with an under the seat tank though. They need fuel pressure to close, so they work really well in 26-27 Model T's with cowl tank...

Jim, no I haven't done a Holley 4550 yet (I don't think), anyhoo, the Holley G 6040 1914-1918 non electric cars, I've drawn. Apparently there are quite a few Holley's I didn't know about, so I'm catching up as quick as I can. HolleyG-6040-14-18.jpg But if you've got another Holley, carb, please tak...

Matt, I just thought of something concerning your unit....what kind of paint did they used to paint over that text? If is some sort of lacquer, it may be possible to remove it without harming the text underneath. But that also depends upon what that text is too. If the Text was applied as a varnish...

Matt, okay so ICE WATER is 1" (72 pt) and the rest are 3/4" (54 pt)? Ummm, from what I can see, it looks to be all of the drawers may well be 3/4" (54pt), but the 1" (72pt) Is ICE BOX , not ICE WATER (of course if you want ICE WATER that size too, it's your choice). Although I'm not quite sure that...

I've seen a couple of these semi modern types of hydraulic brake systems for Model T. I think I understand why your friend wasn't impressed with their performance. For some unknown reason, folks seem to think that the T's braking system is flawed (the joke being, step on the brake pedal and the car...

Since it's been too hot to work in the garage on it....I stare at it a lot!

Your text is known as Gothic No13 BT in the "True Type" font case. It's a condensed font, but needs a bit of modification for the middle of the E and the lower arm of the F and the letters have to be outlined not solid. These were probably a "Varnish Transfer" like you see on Piano Fallboards. They...

One more question... Michael (or anyone for that matter)....do you double gasket the bottom of the carburetor bowl (one inside between the bowl and the carburetor body post and one on the outside of the bowl under the nut? I found I had to do that on my Kingston L-4 to keep it from dribbling fuel o...

Kim, you have a buffalo? Great, that was the one I thought I'd never see (is it taken apart? Need to see the internal parts). Michael, that's exactly the same thing I've said to many of my friends who think that the Hot Air Pipe is just something in the way. One time I forgot to put mine back on an...

Michael, woo good pictures (shiny little devil), what's under the little cover with the hex bolt on top? Is that access to the float valve like on the H1?

Corey, are those 90º bends on the retaining clip on the ends and do they fit into some hole or groove on the Venturi? Like the above picture?

Thanks guys, but I'd rather draw the Model T than what I used to work on (stuff that went boom and or released toxic gas usually in foreign countries), as a rule, Model T's don't explode, which makes them waaay more fun to draw. But from an engineering standpoint are almost as intricate and devilis...

Oh my gosh yes! I need all of these! Yes Rich , this is exactly what I was asking about....seems the patent drawings had is almost right, theirs was a might wider though, but the one in your picture makes more sense for practical application. Steve , I've looked at Bruce's pictures, have his encycl...

Okay, what I need is a view looking in through the choke side of this carburetor. I've got lots of side and top views, and some really nice parts views as well. But what I need to see is the interior band that the choke shaft passes through...I'm just wondering if it is there or not, because the pa...

Mopar_man Graphic Arts and Technical Arts are two completely different things. Graphic Arts are what you see just about everywhere from billboards to food packaging. Technical Arts, are more defined and usually only seen in Repair Manuals, Parts Manuals and Assembly Instructions of everything from ...

My car is an early 1922 Touring, but the tops were the same from 1917-early 1922. This is the Front bow position although your front irons will look a bit differently.

Jim, I am not subscribed to it, so I thought it was a simi annual rag. Bi-monthly huh? Okay I'll make a note of that, thanks.

I promised Jim Mahaffey I wouldn't post these until after his articles on Model T Ford Snubbers for 1926-1927 close cars finished its run in Model T Times (MTFCI semi annual publication), the last issue of that was supposed to hit about January (I think), so I thought I'd go ahead and post these he...

Ya know, there is a possibility that he has already checked that source and contrary to the widespread and (very popular) belief that all the mysteries are available in the archives and have every bloody little thing from 1909, 1927 on these cars....they don't! Especially on something so common as ...

The spokes are wrong for 1909, there should be "tear drop" shaped at the top, these are thick and "oval" at the top like the 1911's.

I would like to try it instead of my Holley Vaporizer. [/size] They're far superior to anything Holley ever built. The only reason Ford went more with the Holley's was because they were cheap to manufacture (and thus cost less, than a Kingston), plus they've no parts to wear out like that stupid he...

Model T.jpg I know this a bit far past Halloween, but I don't get on here much, so I thought I'd add my Hallow's nights worth too. I park my car out on the driveway every Samhain (Gaelic word and pronounced Sow-Wynn) Halloween and invite everybody who comes by (kids included) the opportunity to sit...

Contrary to popular belief, this coil was produced between late 1916-1918 and replaced the brass top coil, mainly due to WWI where brass was a strategic material for the war effort. So, the Ford Motor company came up with a substance that was not considered "strategic" in any way. Wheat Gluten. But...

I don't know, myself I'd prefer one of these, but since I'd have to probably build it on a car, that means I'd have to buy a chassis and build it up from there....of course my wife my have other ideas about that, but one of these days I'm going to try it all the same. It carries 100 gallons of fres...

Whoa, a transparent coil, probably a demonstration unit....one that looks like the kind you'd show to prospective buyers to show them how the coil works or is more reliable than the previous coil model was. This one looks like one of the later types and represents the basic wood coil box. This is t...

Ok Ron, how about this....

Larry from Bruce's book (Encyclopedia of the Model T), KW made the 6 screw top and Ford changed it to 4 screws in 1916 (probably Henry saved a couple of penny's that way)....also according to Bruce, this coil is actually a Late 1913 thru late 1915, because in 1916 the 4 screw top (Ford) was widely ...

Ok, I'm not sure of what the year span is for this style coil, I took a stab at it because Steve Jelf showed me a set of coils he got from Ron Patterson for his 15 Runabout. So, I figured if Ron sent these, then these were probably correct for 1915, but they may also be correct for other early cars...

I was able to post the full size drawing on Face Book and I posted it the groups I usually post to too. Long Beach, Model T Ford Club of FB, Southern Nevada, Southern Utah, Model T Enthusiast, and the MTFCI Face Book group. I've also found the T factory number and the vendor part number too. And I ...

Allan, both Steve and I came to the same conclusion about the thickness of the core vs the veneers. But the Forum won't allow me to post this drawing here due to it's size (13.98 mb at full size). The other thing I realized was that this drawing is not a construction drawing....it is a machine set ...

Mark, I drew this full size...but the forum won't allow anything over 2.81mb at 150 dpi. My original drawing is 300 dpi at 9.85mb. If you want I can send it to you via your email, but just can't here on the forum....I can also post it on FB, if you think that would be easier to get too. Steve Jelf ...

Ok, got a question on this drawing....you'll note that the radius 16 7/64" has no dimension from the datum plain to the distance from the center-line...also there is no dimension for the start point of 5 51/64" Radius, now if you continue that line it does intersect with the dimension line for the ...

Go to any Joann's Sewing Center, they have webbing in just about any width, that's where I went and got my webbing for by front top bow hook straps and rear curtain straps for my early 22 touring. They also carry the snaps and the tools to affix them with too.

John, my car is a 22 Touring and it has a key in the Cross Shaft for the Hand Brake Leverm George Clipner's 26 Touring also has the same set up. The Factory Number parts list also notes that it was used on 09-27, now whether this is a select few cars or ones made domestically or whatever, I don't k...

Okay, the strap iron bracket, when do you guys think it was used. Since it has a Ford Logo on it isn't an aftermarket replacement, do you think then it might be from one of the early cars? Need to know, I'm moving that direction and want to put it in the proper timeline.

Another change, cotter pin size and took out the washer.

Allan, it is a squarish hole but with rounded corner as in Dan's photos.

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