MTFCA Forum

Photo date marked is '6.3.12" down by the axle to the left so yes, a very early starter I would think. Yes, many early electric starters were being made for the Ford, that one is external and more developed in early teen years to be placed under the hood for better protection and look. Here are a f...

Wait, now I’m really confused…GGZ says the modern RM brakes work well in reverse “if you adjust them properly.”GGZ, could you tell us how to make the modern Rocky Mountain brakes work perfectly in both forward and reverse? If not, do these brakes come with complete instructions to guarantee that th...

DHort wrote: ↑
Fri Apr 12, 2024 10:16 pm
I will agree with you Dan, but I also have a brand new Anderson under the back seat just in case.

Dave

Good plan. I too carry spare timers, but have only used them to help others on tours

The I-Timer is now going on 7 years duty on my ‘27 touring, and never a blip!

I-timer as well. It's inductive/magnetic pick up is more like a timer in my mind vs the E-timer which is more electronic and self regulating. Absolutely, the I-Timer is for us flywheel magneto guys ;) The E-Timer runs only on DC, for those unfortunate Fords with disabled flywheel magnetos. While yo...

Thank you for sharing your experiences using the E-Timer Electronic Ignition and the I-Timer Ideal Timer. Approaching the 7th anniversary for the I-Timer . Thank you Mike for your creatively in producing the BEST (IMO and long experiences) timers ever made for the Ford . Am on that 7 years now of y...

Here’s an older post where photo differences of the New Days for comparison The latest New Day by Tip Top is very spot on an original to casual observation. Even has the patented initials under the timer rod hole. The black S version (Synders) no longer made is black plastic. The dark brown older re...

Brent Thanks for the details on that 'little' 12v battery. That should work fine for the modified 12v T starter. Here is torque specs on the 12v modified. 25892.jpg A typical well working T starter on 6v will put out good 8-10 ft/lbs of torque, plenty to crank over a cold engine. 289127 (2).jpg And...

Fitted a Ford Victor tail lamp to the '12 open hack project. Bent thick bar to hang off the undercarriage wood frame. 53932D9A-2765-4847-8798-D94AFA6494F0_1_201_a.jpeg The lamp already had a drilled hole under the housing for I guess someone's use to wire it up, so just enlarged the hole and added ...

Here’s the Item Number 155984612480 So use it to search eBay Here is the page, little description other than friction backing, no size given. Low price but shipping from UK is more than the item price. Might be better to get outdoor carpet from home box stores and cut, trim to fit. Doubt this low pr...

And some load on that ‘15 too.

Note #16 is likely the dean, big at approx. 200 lbs. #19, the young teacher, prob. 160lbs. Now add up the 32 students, including the little girls on the folded top, using approx. 65lbs. each…….grand total 2,536lbs.

And the aftermarket accessory K-W Road Smoother shocks don't seem to be able to help the chassis, the rear fender is resting on the tire

!

Nice detail on that photo, so much to see, including the well dressed and dapper driver. Even the window display has a tire mounted in 1914 and removed in 1916 to show limited wear. The wheels have discs, you can see the anchor fastener to hold the disc to a spoke. And the backside of the passenger...

Photo 10, of the Ford fording......really a big splash.

Plus, I guess decals on the windshield to proudly display mfg. name, seen today. But done much earlier.

That big Winged Pyramid Ford on the windscreen!

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What in the world is the apparatus on the front of the first Model T shown? There is another photo of a similar framework on another T in the series of photos. Yes, that was a popular fender brace and radiator guard, made in the mid west. But really like the added 'ditch lamp', usually found on the...

Picture #9, of the Red Cross '16, shows the woman enlisted knows how to safely crank the Ford, left handed

Here are some photos of the 1916-1917 tail lamp bracket for a coupelet or a runabout. I hope this helps, Russ Furstnow Nice photos Russ, and here is the earlier version, in lieu of the rivet stub end, the license plate arm is held with castle nut. IMG_4634 (700x525).jpg IMG_4635 (733x860) (452x530)...

Summer 1925 before the Improved Car offering, the nickel plated brass substrate shell was offered as an option for the customer. Factory supplied nickel shell on closed cars for '26-'27. Extra cost option on the open cars. Never chrome, always nickel plate. Image 5-3-20 at 1.13 PM.jpeg Dressed up wi...

Bringing many boxes of smaller T parts, one Disteel wheel, older but new like tread Wards Riverside clincher tire, 26-27 front axle, 26-27 headlamps and bar, 26-27 wire wheel front and rear hubs, coil box wood kit...many more things for the old Ford. ;) Come by and look and buy, sorry no early pric...

Here's a few TT beds showing the bed strips, could be 5 is correct. These are longer than the pickup bed strips of course.

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What do the old light , medium , and heavy grades of oil of 100 years ago mean today? https://modeltfordfix.com/care-and-feeding-what-kind-of-oil-should-i-use-in-my-model-t-ford/#more-31 To add to the selection of oil, this modern chart lists the various SAE oil viscosity for motor and gear lubes. ...

Russ Fairly well known of the satin on the Fords with the new Pyroxylin finish. Found a few years ago this introduction date info too, IMG_5268.JPG And original cars if not repainted show satin, here is the underside of trunk lid of an original '27 coupe showing that low gloss finish. But since lac...

And many ‘15s are seen with blank no script brass crimped on cover too, don’t know if factory or not, but all single rivet latch too.

Here's some detail of the Holley G float setting and gage.

This is one photo example of a new ambulance and show factory shiny black on chassis, hood, and fenders, would think all the fasteners too are black painted as they were done on the assembly line and painted to finish. And the rest of the wood body assembly is painted up military style, and you can...

John_Aldrich wrote: ↑
Wed Mar 27, 2024 2:48 pm
Looking for wire wheel hub caps that say "Made in Canada".

As mentioned, by Ken, the '26-'27 Canada T with wire wheels used plain hub caps, without the USA made inscription.

Wood wheel caps were marked "Made in Canada"

With a matching hole on the passenger side, would think someone added electric cowl lamp that had single post, like early Chevy. Or could have used a later Model A style cowl lamp, those have a post with flange the might have made that impression in the sheet metal. IMG_6224.jpg This fancy runabout...

No protection of payment. If you never receive the parts, no refund from PayPal via the seller. Usually such demand method means beware of seller. Unless you personally know the seller, as family member or friend in good standing.

Can imagine the sounds from these suction cup treads.

Sorta like a multiple horses clopping, ......thcuk, thcuk, thcuk, thcuk as you drive along hard pavement.

Save yourself a lot of anxiety and effort. Clean the area thoroughly, as f you were going to paint it, then use J-B weld or some there epoxy. Fiberglass resin will not work, must be epoxy, not polyester resin. No worries, little fuss, and if it fails you just grind off the epoxy and try again. Agre...

Use plain plate glass, just like original. Easy to cut to a round circle. Don't use tempered glass, you cannot cut it, the tempering will make the glass shatter. Don't use laminate safety either the plastic film between the glass will cause reflections and will distort and craze with heat of the ga...

Mfg. Is believed to be Sanson and Rowland, Phila. Link below has some info in the replies section. http://fordtoolcollector.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/FTT-49.pdf Bit more info c/o Google Books, from 1919 issue The Iron Age magazine, shows a partnership was dissolved, but the company remained wit...

Just received this photo from Sara, our local historian in the nearby town of Melrose, FL. Shows great detail, even with colorization, of the special build that Harry Jackson did on this Ford chassis. Jackson was a local crafty fellow, who owned businesses in Melrose at the turn of the 1900s, among...

Agree with Adam

End shows a well worn socket cupped edge, better to replace than repair

Big gear to slow down the axle of that grind stone! A running one cylinder motor would put out too much rpms. Perhaps that flat belt pulley ran some other things other than a grind stone. Here is another grind stone Model T motor style, but for slower manual operation, no fuel needed. IMG_0344 (590...

Jim11787 wrote: ↑
Tue Mar 19, 2024 4:05 pm

Thanks. Have you measured a stock head for comparison to the Prus as far as compression?

Here is link from Tulsa Model T Club info on cc of various Model T cylinder heads.

https://mtfctulsa.com/Tech/head_design.htm

Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑
Tue Mar 19, 2024 1:24 pm
Once you get it all rebuilt, throw away the anti-shimmy spring that's currently on that tie rod end.

Jerry is correct

If left in place for a while that hardened spring accessory will indeed wear its imprint on the knuckle of the spindle arm

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I have CC'd various heads. The Prus head is a little more than the Z. Comparable. A little over 5:1.(I don't have the #'s with me now) Don't let the 8:1 claim scare you away from it. Same here.. Replaced a Z head on my 27 touring with the new Prus a few years ago. While on the bench, filled a chamb...

Here’s an earlier post on the wood install on the Tudor

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/11 ... 1277515763

BarrettR wrote: ↑
Sun Mar 17, 2024 3:55 pm
Which side of the frame is correct?

Could be either, some may be on the driver's side, most on passenger side upper frame rail by the running board support bracket.

Various clips are used to secure the wiring looms.

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Re-numbering a T block can be legal with satisfactory documentation. A block may be re-stamped to match a held valid title , in owners name, so the motor number is correctly recorded for proper registration, is one way. In FL, a pre-1927 car may have the motor and number changed by the owner, who ho...

Have used clear polyurethane thinned a bit to soak in on the solid oak coil box wood parts. Works fine, sealing that wood from moisture is a good idea.

Sometimes the old Ford has to go to the elephant grave yard. ”Bad Penny”was an early eBay purchase unseen except photo, was stated as rust free….not :( Did get the engine out and was put to use, but the rest of the rusted out , with window screen backed Bondo patches in all the sheet metal , sad ‘2...

If wheel is shaking, check hub nut first. Could be loose hub on axle.

A few pics of an original Fordor roof lamp and wiring and pillar switch.

Found also in 1927-1928 Western Auto Catalog

Should be 5/8” x 16 thrd.

further, at least on this item, there is no evidence anything was ever soldered to the flange - so, is the screen meant to be pressed in, or perhaps a screen is/was not a universal feature of all sediment units ? Rich All sediment bulbs have screen disc, the screen lays inside the rim and was held ...

A very good soldering iron will give good results. I used just simple low watt pistol shape gun and got that screen on. Lay first some solder to tin the recessed rim groove, and that will allow the round screen to be placed into the groove and touch the iron in places around the rim to hold it in. ...

Modern gasoline has so much environmental additives that gum up most anything :) If the gas sits too long, like in a carb or shutoff, then things can stick. My fix is simple, a shot or two of good penetrating oil. Lift the shut-off handle a bit, spray a shot, then twist a few times, spray again to ...

Terry Have done both, the brass tag, cut to fit completely over the boss, then stamped, and using J-B Weld Quick glued over the serial boss. Have also filed off an original serial and re-stamped. The brass plate was very good at hiding, and looking original. The file drag caused a line across the b...

You could fix that firewall style sediment bulb. Takes some work and new lead gasket to keep from weeps. Remember, gravity is pulling on that fuel always. So a good shut off is needed. 26.27.jpg Or on this one, couldn't seem to get the bulb shut off to close best. So added this extra shut-off, work...

2019 post with photos.

viewtopic.php?t=9378

Generally the measure you have seems it will be ok to fit the body with the top irons. There is a 'slight' springyness of the irons to the body anyway, as you have to spread the long irons open to place over the body posts. All should align as you put the prop nut on each prop post. The stanchion sh...

And the Florida sun is really too much for the Pyralin plastic visor over the windshield.

Note the wavy shapes of that visor from sun damage!

The Jack Rabbit is a modified Turbo 400 disc, by cutting away some of the disc fingers to fit the clutch drum. For all practical purpose the Jack Rabbit and Turbo 400 are the same game. (Except you can't use a Turbo disc as supplied by auto parts stores without cutting away some of the disc fingers...

As others, the lug boss is rather narrow to begin with on the small brake drum. Ink mark shows what might be needed to cutaway to install the replacement lug. IMG_5378 (800x600).jpg Then again, the lug may look like this! Hardly anything left to cut on. IMG_5380 (800x600) (760x570).jpg

Repros made in the late '60s were done, and the repros New-Days came in new print boxes like old, and these were dark red-brown Bakelite type plastic. Bought them in the 1970s too. Image 3-1-24 at 2.32 PM.jpeg Much later I guess that original mfg gave up, so Synder's began making a copy, in a dull ...

Appears that Turner Mfg. Co, that made the Turner 2- 1 timer, brought out the simpler 'Junior' that has the hall marks of the first NEW DAY timer 6B23D1FE-22E9-4846-87F0-889FE2E5F082_4_5005_c.jpeg The Junior was announced late 1925, at just $1.90. So would imagine the NEW DAY packaging was later, a...

Lots of info. and more photos on this earlier thread:

https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/5 ... 1459469185

Manny, Moe, Jack, Moe , Larry, Curly, Groucho, Chico, Harpo, and the Carbureted Cowboy are the wheel.

Photo made by neighbor Rick. Gang is some of my neighbors too.

Mine droop's too even with the gather tie strap.

Think you’ll have to find a fix

for boot droop.

Jay Can only surmise that build used different measures to the firewall/dash, since he used a modern Mazda engine in his speedster, with custom frame rails. https://www.horselesscarriagereplicas.com/files/September_2012_Special_Issue2.pdf Guess if you are satisfied with your firewall position, and ...

Big work is cutting away the 26-27 front frame fender ears and then drilling holes to adapt the early fender/headlamp brackets. Rear fenders will need special adaption to hang off your body.

Here's a few photos of the assembly for ref.

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Those dash to body sill brackets are best placed after the fit of the dash to the body. All the other holes need to be done first, and would be most helpful to have the firewall to frame brackets positioned to the frame and dash. Then the brackets may be positioned and holes drilled to mount the ca...

Martyn Vowell, Vincent needs your 1909-1916 radiator attachment diagram! : ^ ) The drawing by Martyn is right at Vincent’s fingertips. Top of the Forum page, far right corner, click on ‘Gallery’, the click on ‘Vowell Art’, the select the file for ‘Radiator’, all the drawings are there to follow.

May have to get a pair of those focus type LEDs to try. Have installed a pair of these types, which have an array on the side to help throw beam against the parabolic reflectors. IMG_5986.jpg The reflector in the '24 are old silver plate and in perhaps good condition, but not a good as those new re...

I'll convert them to electric but they both will need reflectors and lenses. Did similar for the '12 project buckboard pickup, found a pair of lightly dented, but bare, steel Ford script Victors, that were missing the brass rims and reflectors and burners. But project needed working lamps, so elect...

Also, care as noted to use the modern repro 1/4" x 24 brass screws for new repro ring gears. Original ring gear and brass screw threads are obsolete #14 - 24. My experience was bad with loose magnet clamps hitting the field coils, no fun, had to replace all the screws. Builder didn't know the new r...

Rounded out the day after doing carb work with a fun ride in my '24 Touring. Neighbor has had a young man visiting from Denmark, took him around FL, to Orlando, Universal studios, then to Kennedy Space Center, giving him all the typical US things to do and see. So of course I invited Jonas to get a ...

Last week helped a fellow T'er with a troublesome Vaporizer( I know, folks really like 'em) , but I tried without success to get the Ford to idle. Would run full out, but stumble and rough when throttled down. Fred Hart carb.jpg Did change out the gaskets, thinking intake leaks, by spraying some st...

A friend a few years ago sent me these photos that may help you. He did the same, removed the axle tube from the Ruckstell housing, by cutting off the tube, then drilled out rivets, then put saw cuts down into the axle tube with a SawsAll, to help collapse it, then beat the remains of the stub axle...

Sometimes the leading edge of the lining needs to be tapered, by grinding off some, if it stands up too much.

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And be sure the shoe edge is tucked under the 4 retaining tabs to keep it close to the backing plate.

If that plate has a lever on the inside, that could be accessory pump to push the oil. Since it's complex, likely few sold, and wouldn't be also made later for the one-piece cover.

Info from Sept. 1920 Ford Owner and Dealer magazine.

Adv for that type of cap to manage end-play.

And a couple of more devices to keep the mag strong

Thanks for the comment Peter The story of Aloha Wanderwell is indeed worth re-telling. Just very happy that Ford Germany decided to use her achievement in announcing their new electric Explorer in Germany, petty neat. Was amazing this team of body shop could create the replica in just six weeks to g...

Doubt $20K would buy even a few chassis pieces of a 1903.

Only a very few appear at times for sale. Below is for ‘03 runabouts w/ tonneau.

Did the floorboards (‘24 touring) originally have cleats on the bottom, or are these part of a repair? IMG_3548.jpeg Yes. Cleats on the large boards is factory, keeps the boards secure and adds support strength. These are original boards from my '24 touring. 24 FLboard rear view.jpg And this is ske...

Just saw this on Facebook, a German body shop was commissioned to do the recreation of the Model T car Aloha Wanderwell drove around the world in the early 1920's. recreated Wanderwell 814_n.jpeg Very well done. Link: https://www.facebook.com/groups/17532215547/user/100054440682754/ Years ago I att...

I checked and they looke to be the same length, but the threads are different lengths. I cleaned and ran a tap through all the holes The later nickel plate dome head bolts have a little shorter thread length. But only a small lower section of the threads go into the engine block. IMG_5753.jpeg

1925 Touring wrote: ↑
Wed Feb 14, 2024 7:02 pm
Neat!
I wonder why ford went through the extra hassle on the back of the strip on hollowing it out, rather than just leave it solid?

Less material ,lower part cost….the H. Ford way

Those inner Hyatt's get lubed from the rear axle lubrication, usually 6000W. The outer Hyatts get lube from filling and turning the grease cups, a good wheel bearing grease, like Valvoline universal red type is just fine. IMG_2157 (617x639) (603x625) (598x620) (579x600).jpg IMG_4771 (700x525).jpg

After cleaning the block holes very well, to be sure they are free of carbon debris, then spray the gasket with Copper Gasket coat, or use a high metallic content alum. spray paint. Most important is the sequence to torque to squeeze the laminated gasket for best sealing against leak. Must do 1, 2,...

I read somewhere on the forums that you could get a copy of the mechanical drawings and specs for the Hyatt roller bearings from the Henry Ford Museum, anyone have that and care to share or know what the drawing numbers are. To order prints from Benson Ford Research Center, you must use the FACTORY...

The simple one fitted to the inspection cover works well. Lang's sells this style, a copy of original one. Easy to adjust the location of the push switch as it is held with a single nut, adjust to outward travel of the brake pedal. Of course you have to remove to inspect the oil screen, but no big ...

Nice work with those child restraints in the back seat.

But in the day some had other ideas for hauling that little tyke

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I reiterate, solid rollers will go 10,000 miles or more if properly designed and installed. Every one of those solid Rollers that I have removed, IMO, show distinct wear out of the pinion ends of the solid roller. Some solid mfg. have 6 and some have more of those tiny pinion ends that are extra ax...

That’s typical p/n 1902 Pliers, Ford trademark on inside handle began late 1920, in 1921 handle with screwdriver tip changed to 6 3/4” L from 6 1/2”. Late ‘21 changed again to 6 5/8” L.

After June 1922 Ford trademark placed on outside of handle.

Above from Record of Changes for the T-1902.

Thanks too Jim

Page 17 with the auto jacks shows the two styles supplied with the Ford.

The junior screw jack is the typical one, used ‘13 to ‘25

The other is the flip top pressed all steel with separate handle, used on the Improved Ford, with balloon tires, note the copy states for Ford car.

Rob

Sent you an email to your personal email address I had on file. Let me know if you didn't get that message and attachment.

Dan

Michael Perhaps, so not real sure, think most all the Ford parts were sent to the foreign branch assembly plants, including upholstery and tops. Here is photo of a Europe branch showing the assembly of tops to the bodies on the assembly lines. seat spring uphol .jpg Top assembly on the left, vertic...

Canadian open car tops had those 2 oval-window lights in the rear curtain. Canada also exported Ts to Europe, and likely supplied the body parts, chassis parts and top parts to Denmark. Here is 1922 adv. showing that pair of lights. canada 1922.jpg And the top iron assembly was different than the U...

Here is scan factory layout of a '12 runabout top.

Scan size is all that is avail. If you have zoom on a pc, shows up fairly well.

Click on image to enlarge.

Haul with open trailer for years, like the lightweight too for best milage. Do have a 14' L x 8' W Enclosed steel frame trailer which serves well too, and becomes a garage at tours if needed or at home. The open is custom 14' L alum x 7' W, 4 wheel elec. brakes, dual axle with torsion axles for low...

The single part is the lower steering column dash clamp for a '26-'27

Bolt began being used in 1922 instead of stud.

Eric The late '24 (Oct '24) {well technically the 1925 model year} and up to 1927 open car windshields have two holes for the accessory rear view mirror and one hole for the wiper located in the same places. The wiper hole is approx. 12" in from the edge of the driver's upper windshield frame. The ...

Are these pics the correct routing? And, if so are there some missing items to make this routing a little more "safe"? If not a fire hazard, I would think vapor lock might be an issue. I'll hang up and listen.fuel line 1.JPGfuel line 2.JPGfuel line 3.JPG That routing of the fuel line is correct for...

Mitch It’s rather a good idea to keep the coolant up high. Any excess will just spill out the overflow anyway. The thermo syphon needs the upper outlet covered at all times with coolant, otherwise the flow will stop, and stay in the cylinder head and overheat the motor. As with any syphon, let the h...

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