MTFCA Forum

Sean,
Nice looking car. Are you just touring Whidby Island or did you relocate? I sold all my rentals a few years ago. I love not being a landlord anymore!
Enjoy!

: ^ )

Keith

The running board mounting brackets and bolt holes are not symetrical from end to end for 1911 and 1912, There is a left and a right.

Unless you are in a part of the world where right hand drive cars are common, the acetylene generator mounting bolt holes are the give away it is a left side.

The acetylene generator always mounts on the driver's...

Hello David,
Just checking. Did you get my email? Mike

Another moral: You see something you want, buy it. It won’t be there when you look tomorrow.

Synthetic oil is usually based on chemically modified petroleum, but can also be made from natural gas and other things. Every manufacturer uses different ingredients and processes to produce it. The idea is to produce a lubricant more stable under high temperatures, longer-lasting in the engine, and providing improved lubrication. (Here is a nice...

Paul, Would it be that you have installed the mounting screws of the lower bus bar up side down, because if the screws are too long they would hold up the coils up from the spring contacts of the busbar giving you no meter and or test light reading and an open circuit situation with your ignition coils....n

Back to the top

Not my truck, but located near me in Gladesville, WV 26374. I've seen it in person, but have not looked it over closely. Supposed to be a 27, it has some kind of auxiliary transmission but I don't remember what. I looked at it briefly about 4 years ago, but went with a touring instead. The lady that has it got it in a trade deal and knows nothing...

Leather washers- refer to this post:

I don't know if leather washers were used all the way through the 1922 model year but I presume they would be correct for your 1914 roadster.

I have an unrestored 1917 roadster and I removed trunk in order to straighten out the sheet metal and there were no leather washers. I also have an NOS or early...

Great feedback Guys thanks.
Plenty to think about.
It does seem strange that low band wont grip, looks like it is grabbing the drum but maybe the pedal setup is really worn and thats a contributor. With no load (a rear wheel jacked up) it grips the drum fine.
I'll do some measuring.
Daves restoration looks a good option, thanks for posting.

Thanks

Gary, post the thread size and the O.D. of the ball. I have one but I wouldn't know if it were the right size without the measurements.

Early this year, I had a similar problem with my 23 touring. I just could not keep the car in the middle of the lane. Everything looked good until I noticed that the steering column box to the frame was loose. The mounting bolts were pinned but loose. The wood must have shrank. The bolts were tightened and pinned. Now the car steers like it...

What is the bolt pattern on these drums? Looks larger than 5X5. Was the outside finished as well?

Been going since 1980. You better hurry. Times they are a changing.

RW - the Z is called a high compression head but it's only a slight increase. The chamber design should result in more efficiency and as you pointed out, increase the compression ratio to around 6. Here is info on the Z

Another big performance improvement is to install a Scott Conger full-flow valve in your NH. There are discussions about it...

Great commentary Wayne !
Thing is, acetylene lamps (and oxy-acetylene welding) were fairly new technology, only something like 20 years old in 1915. The magneto powered electric headlamps were pretty sketchy, while, if you really had to rely on them for a lot of night driving over bad roads, acetylene was dependable and very bright. I recall...

MAN! Just watching that made my joints hurt!

Hi Tim, I would like to but your Muncie and Warford parts. Email sent. Thanks Rich

Grease Cup (rear axle and D.S.bushing) p/n 2545B (Fac # 76) is noted by Bruce's C-D to be used likely '09-'27

The other Grease Cup, p/n 2545 (Fac # T-76A2) was noted to be used '24-'27

Think the difference is the brand with the ratchet, to prevent the cap from vibrating off, you see these styles on the '24 and later original Ts.

Grease...

Thanks to everyone who responded! My grandson will be moving there in a couple of weeks with a new job. I'll let him know cause he's very interested in Model T's. Nice car,\!! Jim and another in the garage!

Pictures,,,,,,

One time my wife and I were in Colorado. We saw a very small cloud over the highway. The car in front of us was a convertible with the top down. It got rained on but we didn't get any rain. Clouds are funny that way.
Norm

I have located one. Thanks MTFCA

Apple cider vinegar I feel is better than just vinegar. Works really well on rust. Soak for a day and wire brush it off, then a very light coat of oil to prevent flash rust. I've been using it for years. Also try electrolysis. There are lots of videos online on how to do that. I've also used it for a long time on larger parts. Removes all rust...

Sold to Scott.

Thanks MTFCA!

About the double plates in photo #5; could they be dealer plates, that would make sense...

The issue with the early heavy rods is that it takes a heap more babbitt to re-build, making the bearing thick compared to the better machining of the later rods.

Should easily fit in a pickup bed

Dennis, I sent you an email. Thanks!

I think what he is saying is; his modification makes this 1915 Touring “faster and more reliable” than it would be otherwise.

This claim will of course be debated by those who believe that the most reliable Model Ts are those that remain exactly the way they were when they left the assembly plant.

Got the new band liner from Craig today: what a great guy to deal with! Thank you.

Bob

IMG_1775.jpeg

Email Sent.

Hi John, I emailed you about your 14.

Tim,

I don't believe I've ever seen a newly manufactured clutch/brake pedal extension. Just old ones from the era.

Ooops! I lied :oops: ... Here are some new ones:

As stated, it is a detailed book put out by agent in Auckland (under Colonial Motor Co umbrellar), but someone previously hand written date 1917 in it. Looks like actually late 1919 as covers trucks and tractors but still has war related content (WWI), but only lists parts for up to 1918 models.
Part numbers seem to vary fom USA listed numbers.

That will be the problem. Trying to fit a new patch to really old material is not likely to hold up in use if it is in a place where there is any movement/stretch is involved. The old stuff gives up in places, and the nearby bits are just as fatigued/decayed, so repairs may only be cosmetically effective. There is nothing wrong with making such...

Chaffin's has kits in stock.

Well I won't see you at OCF because I can't go. I won't see you at my place because you won't be there. That is a bummer Steve.

Can pick up another areas including Denver, Dallas and OKC.

Sold to Rick. Thank you

All sold. Thank you

All sold. Thank you

All sold. Thank you

All sold. Thank you. :)

Wrenches are sold.

Lenses are sold.

You wee supposed to pay them for that?

According to Phil’s website, it’s a 1911 with fore doors that were retrofitted, rather crudely, to the the car. However, the car was built in November of 1911, so by Ford's records, it's a 1912.

...should I take the T out to show everyone it is an all weather car or give her the week off? :twisted:

If you've ever watched much of David Letterman, you may recall a recurring segment of his show entitled, Will it Float? The thought of taking your T out during these rains reminds me of those episodes...

Great seeing and speaking with you again Tom. Yes, it was a great tour. Chillicothe is very nice town. I've driven through it several times, on the way to past Jamborees, but never noticed the very vibrant business district, crammed with nicely restored vintage store fronts and buildings. Also, some beautiful old homes! What a nice town!

The...

Thanks Paul, looks like you had a great day,

Yea John, but the chamber depth on a real BBR is well under 1 deep..........

I believe just the driveshaft was held in a vice, and the tool used on the sleeve on the bare driveshaft. The tool yielded before the sleeve would let go.
Allan from down under.

Way too small for a railroad locomotive. Im thinking a boat might be a good guess

You say you already have them?? I would not hesitate to go ahead and insall them. The AC are a good system especially for an early car. One thing you need to consider just as much a rain once in awhile is the ADDED Safety factor!! If you should break anything from the end of the crankshaft to the rear wheel You will Not have much braking except...

Also note the nice electric headlamp conversion within the acetylene headlamps.

Like Jerry, I plan on leaving my car overnight at the village, but a couple of tips and some info for those who will be driving back to the Rotunda Center.
1. The bridges over Southfield freeway have a “u-turn” loop. Instead of going all of the way to the light you can make an immediate left onto the bridge. Before moving to Michigan I had never...

Screenshot (269).png

Going to Kevin. :)

Rob. Quick question on the material in the pictures on your original post. I need to redo the front bottom on my 15 Touring, and that material is what I'm looking for. What is the material called (I know it is vinyl, but is there a name for the texture) and where did you obtain it? I have looked into a number of the T suppliers and find nothing....

Thanks Richard for photo rotation. Photo shows Wife's Uncle after restoration ? driving the car. It seems to have the larger brake drums. 26 /27 I don't know the year of the wheels. I doubt he would have had them changed. tool box and carrier were not repainted which seems odd. Its a pig in a poke long shot that someone still with us will remember...

I would never put such a plate on a car that didn't have one originally. It's kind of like those plates that say my car is 100 years old! Anyone with very basic math skills can figure that one out.

Please send an email to address in the picture. Thanks Dan

to the top

to the top...Sold one but I have another.

This’ll be the only ‘back to top’ until this item drops into obscurity :o(

Packing for Hershey 2024. Any trades out there?

Packing for Heshey 2024. Any traders out there?

Loading for Hershey 2024. Any barterers out there?

Loading for Hershey 2024. Any trades?

Are these still available ?

Hap,

There are two blogs.

army30th.wixsite.com/centerdoor

army30th.wixiste.com/centerdoor-ii

My body is not indented at the bottom front quarter and neither is my friend’s car.

Other measurements have come from cars that have the indent but those measurements are for body attachment locations and width between the body sills which match...

That sucks, man. I’m sorry to hear you got scammed. It’s always tough when trust gets taken advantage of like that. Stay cautious and good luck getting things sorted out.

Hey Tom!

Glad to see that frame get put to good use!

Karl, they were needed on a 1920 Huckster.

Brassworks really packs a radiator well. Literally surrounded by that expanding foam stuff within plastic bag material to keep it from infiltrating the fins. Likely no better way to pack a rad. But if within a day's drive I totally agree with Norm.

There is a date of the patent, can’t read the year, with full date, day, month and year that patent can be researched on line.

Can read March 11, 19__

IMG_1293.jpeg

Sold to John.

What Allan says is correct. If this is something non stock, we would need photos.

For the silent chain:

or

As a Dodge Brothers owner (1920 touring), not sure what you mean by pocket? Is this a truck and talking about the flat bed pocket?

It should be loose enough for the ball to rotate freely in the socket but tight enough that it will not move up and down. There should be some grease in the ball joint. It is quite common for the cap or the socket in the crankcase to be worn or the ball worn down. So be sure to check and correct these things.
Norm