MTFCA Forum

Looks like the whole crank is there.
I see a camshaft sticking up to.
Appears to be a head gasket showing on top the block?
I see a u joint above the #135 on the running board.
The engine is all to pieces :lol:

Bryant

Hi Henry, I had the same issue for much the same cause (son in law learning to drive..).

I removed the Bendix bolts and slid as much off the shaft as possible (the gear was still locked up), then I undid the starter mount bolts. When the starter was loosened the Bendix gear came free from binding on the ring.

Removed the starter and checked...

That style column tube was used for nearly three years actually. Beginning in late 1914, ONLY for center-door sedans and couplets, it may have been used on some cars. I am not sure about the earliest ones which would have gotten the cast brass spark and throttle quadrant, they might have been a bit shorter in length for the cast quadrants? Only...

I’ll send those to you tomorrow am!
Thanks Jeff

Sent you an email.

thanks for helping .

Regarding sidewall cracking: I have 30 x 3.5 Coker sawtooth tires on my roadster. They were on the car when I acquired it 30 years ago and, at that time, the sidewalls were already cracked. I don't know if this is an issue with current production.

On the plus side: Coker 30 x 3 Coker sawtooth tread tires are true, 30 inch tires so they aren't...

Sent email regarding roadster body.
Thanks
Austin

Thank you all! Thanks shrshot, im talking to the man with the one in Winsconsin. Thanks for the lead, it has all the parts im loooking for.

Karl, thank you for looking in your stuff. As of now l hope to purchase the one from stephens point, but if it doesn't work out, i will let you know.

Dan, I do not plan on coming to luray this year, if the...

Hi Ed. I'll take those. PM sent.

P139, 146, 145 are sold.

What you going to pay?

Exceptional work as always Scott!

Very impressive.

What is everyone else bringing ? Post it here !

I have seen that piece missing on a bow or two. From the hole left behind it would seem to be welded to the tube like the spokes in 26-7 wheels. Hopefully, others may have had different experiences.

Allan from down under.

Lang's just got these back in stock today......

I was waiting on an back ordered item from Lang's and it came in today, so I added the tumbler and keys along with some other items.

I will see if any local locksmiths can provide copies of my original, and if have a leftover tumbler and keys, I may just have to buy a tudor to go with it..

Here are a few of the cars on display, including 1932 Willys-Knight and 1960 Rambler. It was perfect weather and good turnout. Sorry I didn't take any pictures of swap meet.

ModelT.jpg
Fords.jpg
FordV8_1934.jpg
WillysKnight_1932.jpg
Rambler.jpg

Here is a video link of the siren in action.

Hey Tim,
Neat Car.
How much do you want for it?
Also, I followed your Youtube link but could not find anything on Thunderbolt . I would be interested in what the interior looks like.

The accuracy of the odometer is driven by the road and pinion gears. To determine the road/wheel gear that will make the odometer most accurate, determine the diameter of the tire and mulitply times two to get the number of teeth necessary for the road/wheel gear. The pinion gear will ALWAYS be 16 teeth. Steve's gearing must be pretty good to show...

Thank you James,
I look forward to getting it

Scott

Is this it?
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IMG_4343.jpeg
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i will take them
tom

Kim Dobbins posted some to my add for fender Irons Mike. Please look at those...

I made one from an original Ford timer by turning a block of maple to a moderate press fit in the case with original contact ring removed, and bored a hole to fit camshaft. Used it once with good result, fwiw. jb

Based on personal experience that strut is important and should be installed. Installed correctly, it maintains box shape and coil contact. Don't make it too tight (or too loose).

No reason you can't put in a lower pressure relief and direct forward if the pressure is higher than desired.

I will buy your wheel.
Campbell Tellman II
1916 Ford Touring
252 528 0093

The square hole in the end fits the old Prest-o-lite acetylene tanks.
Used when you did not want to wait and cleanup the carbide generator.

It only fits the smaller sized tanks, the larger ones used a larger valve and key.
Back in the day the tanks needed a key and did not have a knob.
You can still buy them today, as dogbone shaped keys.

SOLD
Thank you to the buyer and MTFCA and HCCA
Headed for Australia

SOLD
Thank you to the buyer and MTFCA and HCCA
Headed for Australia

New price Reduction to: $17,250, OBO

SOLD
More available soon...Stay tuned.

Reducing price to $1025.00.
This engine needs a new home and deserves to be in a great 1914 car!

Just
Model T ford
Usually pops up in parts and accessories.
Use the filter options and check the used box
Then you get thousands of model t parts minus 2 thousand aluminum T bucket radiators. Lol

Bryant

Picture #2. The map pocket on the door. I want one, or even two.

Adam, the wooden battery box was actually the battery case. The plates ans electrolyte were built into the pitch lined wooden box to make the assembled battery. The two hold down clamps engaged on the metal handles at each end of the case. These handles were there to lift the battery.

later the cases were made of hard rubber. Today they are...

sorry, posted on wrong add!!

Email sent...

Hi Eric, yes, I do the OF's.

Wheel has been sold

Email sent

Bryant

I'm not having the metal lower battery boxes made any more. They were exact copies of the originals. The current offerings are not 100% correct, and will not work with an original top.

I use a 888 which is 1/4 shorter than the 777 that Ford used. It does the same thing but is still ok as far as function.

I believe the top part clamps on top of the driver's door of a T Touring car that would have its side curtains on, so that you can open the door without damaging the side curtains.

Craig added more photos but for some reason was unable to add to this post so here is a link.

Call me or tex 209 769 3384

Dave or Mark can you call me about my pre-order from Jan. 28th confirmed Jane. 29th.? Thanks Clay Atkins you have my number.

I used hard plastic washers for my inspection, valve and transmission cover plate bolts with Yamabond applied to both sides of the gaskets and the threads, and no leaks found.
Did the starter shaft seal trick as above and used flat washers and hex bolts, sealant on the gasket and bottom threads.
I cleaned the hogshead areas around the rearward...

The ladies in 3 could go a little better with some tires and a motor.

They had all of that when they began.

I found a couple more items; repop oil can holder and a axle knocker.

SOLD and Picked-up.
Thank you to the Buyer and MTFCA and HCCA!!

Photo number two is a 1910 Ford that is the same as my 1910 would have been at that time. My 1910 was sold new in Elgin, IL. I have often wondered if there is a photo of my T from the years when it was new or nearly new,\./ Does anyone have a photo of an 1910 taken in or near Elgin?

Sold to Jerry. Thank you

This may be a photo of the landaulet prototype:

IMG_9353.jpeg

This undated photo below was taken at the New York Ford branch store. Two Model K are parked on the street.
photo feb 28 2023, 8 37 15 pm.jpeg

Inside, two cars are on the showroom floor. On the right is a K Roadster, with another rumble seat roadster to the left:

Photo Feb 28...

Well William May, hello to a fellow typesetter!

move to top

move to top

Someone just increased his order to 2 to help make this happen. Anyone else want one?

It sure looks light enough to be an N, maybe the wheel dimensions are a clue.

From the description of the event, there were two White steamers, a society lady in a yellow touring car and a young lady learning to drive her runabout. Must have been a great sight.

Bill..... Nice to see your post, you should share it on Classified- Parts forum section. Rare item.

I have a 1914 touring. Recently rerestored. chassis ,motor, new top. Paint presentable from the 60's. Email me and I will send pictures. In Utah. Jim Williams ewilliam01@msn.com.

Thanks Dan! Is there a good place to look for history / documentation of Joe's work? Did he have a machine shop as a profession or was he a hobbyist? I'd be really interested in reading up on him. Yes, understand the concerns about potential failure. May just get a scat and keep this for history...or not. ;)

PM sent to you.

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I got this message when I tried to order two badges.

Mike, you have done the right thing reassembling the rear spring as it was originally assembled.
There are three curves in all but the top couple of leaves, so if you mix up their orientation they are never likely to nest as hey should. You might get away with mixing up the assembly on the simple front spring
Allan from down under

Congrats Kim - someone got a GREAT car at a fantastic price!

Ford only used this coil box for one year. They used mica pieces below the common grounding strip on the bottom to insulate the ground from the mag and battery wires. These mica pieces appear to be about 1 1/8 to 1 1/4 square, and about .030 thick. Does anyone know if mica is available like that?

Looks like you could make your own....
YouTube...

Craig
Thank you so much!
I will be looking these bearings up with my parts supplier.

Bryant

Ya, I am amazed actually how this thing managed to stay together, but may explain why it was put to rest in 1935. The housings and torque tube/ball, radius rods and U-joint are pretty much all that's salvageable. The brake rods are even wore thru about 60/70% at the supports and the eyelets have very little meat left so ovaled out. Will rebuild...

Spoken for!!