MTFCA Forum

Somewhere in that timeline the brackets were made integral with the lamps. If your lamps need brackets they would be for an earlier car of that period, if that matters to you.
Allan from down under.

I have never seen 3/16 plate glass in original windscreens in Australian bodied T's. My 1915 Canadian sourced tourer had 1/4 glass and the brass channel. Other spare frames I have found and traded were all to take 1/4 glass. Is this a Canadian thing?
If 3/16 glass was mounted in our components without bedding tape, it would rattle and leak water...

Wood wheel hubs are a curse, or at least that fine thread on the skimpy hubcap is.If Henry had made a thicker hubcap with a decent depth of thread there would not be the problem.Rather than lend my hub tools, i volunteer to do the job myself, using my tools. This is especially true if they have damaged threads which need to be dressed with my...

I like a battery strap too. For a battery I use a standard group 1 battery in an original Ford battery box. I had to put a piece of plywood beneath the battery, and along the sides to keep it secure in the box, and level with the top. I also use an original battery box cover and clamps. No regrets.

Mark l already have a set of your wire wheel lug nuts and they are awesome, now we need a quality set of wire wheel hubcaps!

The one in left corner at the rear looks to me to be the one possibly for on the right side where the door latch goes. From the angle it looks like the whole back section is too high for the body metal. Unless you don't have the tin against the sill at the bottom. The part on the floor looks like it might the top for the back panel.

Thank you!

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Neat accessory for sure. Have seen one in Jack Putman’s place on his T

Wondered how fan was fitted, on Jack’s the large gear has pulley for fan belt. Instruction page notes T fan bracket remains in place.

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I took a screenshot from a video of this Motorcraft plug. It was arcing on top between the porcelain and threaded section. That’s the only problem I’ve ever had with them.

. I've accidently fumigated my garage a few times only to have insurance that my carbon monoxide monitor is working

Posting my reply here as wel. If no actual orders are recieved by March I'm giving this up had alot of interest and questions but I'm not going to pursue this if no one if going to order. The 2 people that have ordered are extremely please with the covers. Thanks for your time guys

It does look like remnants of a backyard fix.

Move to top. If no actual order are recieved by March I'm giving this up had alot of interest and questions but I'm not going to pursue this if no one if going to order. The 2 people that have ordered are extremely please with the covers. Thanks for your time guys

Thank you to all.

Parts spoken for - I'll get some photos of the Murphy fasteners later.

The belly strap claw is sold to wingnut thanks MTFCA !

That is a fantastic '14, despite that it appears to have a water pump! :lol:
Bit up there at $25K but I bet he'll negotiate. I do hope tho this is an indication that the earlier cars are holding up their values!
Especially since HCCA has an '11 Touring for only $39K!

Just the usual bump ha ha...time's running out...come 2/15 I'll start the process with the shop and likely any other orders will not be possible. Also, the 2 rectangular requests turned out to be for round brushes with the sale of a timer for that person. So far there will be NO rectangular brushes produced at this time. Possibly ever. So one week...

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If you buy a Flagworld handwaver, all the sealed edges will be taken care of for you. Buy 4 0r 5 t0 amortise the postage costs.

Allan from down under.

Must be one out there somewhere

Still looking

Jim Key:
We know how to identify the early brake drum(pre 16) We know that a distance plate & 26 disks are required. We know what the earliest clutch hub looks like. We know what the later drums look like & 25 disks. We know when the top hat bushing changed to 3 thrust washers. We know how to identify the earliest & latest clutch hubs.

We dont...

There have been discussions on this subject here. /////// See below......

**** I tried a forum search using: Evans coolant Many relevant results from several forum members.

sold pending payment

My '26 speedster came with a low head. I have a high head in my stash. It looks like the high head has larger water jackets (better cooling?). What would your suggestions be on which would be best and why?

Thanks!

To answer your question, it kind of depends on what radiator you're using. The low head water outlet lines up well with a brass...

If you cleaned them up, so folks could see the condition of the gear teeth, you might be able to sell these.

I agree but my wire wheel is outside in the cold.
Supposed to be in the 40s next week and I will.
Thanks

I can certainly sympathize with that. :)

Here are some methods

I have two will Send you a PM Tomorrow with some pictures

Even though Ford used 777's from the factory, I have found 888's to be a perfect replacement, and less weight too.

Things are coming together nicely on planning for the meet.

Team made a slight layout change to place the Ragtime Racers exhibition track off to the side.
The old layout had the track between the swap spaces and the gate, which I think we all can agree was not the safest arrangement. So while the racers will park among the spaces, there’s a nice...

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Route 66 near Waynesville Mo from Hillbilly Tour 2025

I don't think the line across the radiator on the touring is a fender brace. It appears to be attached to the radiator shell. I'd guess it's an accessory or owner added item for the purpose of retaining a lower radiator winter front to prevent the radiator from freezing in cold weather. It evidently isn't for mounting a license plate.

All sold, pending payment, thanks Erick

Marty, I have a 26-27 rear end, driveshaft and radius rods I’d sell for $80. It’s on a farm just north of New Braunfels so you’d have to drive nearly an hour to see it. I’ll be there tomorrow (7 Feb) morning…and it would have to be rebuilt

Why don’t you send an email to James thru the Forum?

I only had 10 of the style on the right !

Thanks Dan. Now here is where things are confusing to me. Tim above mentioned his #1 Top Socket was 25 in overall length. My new reproduction #1 Socket is 26 overall. (My 1915 Socket is 25 ). Tim shows a measurement for the #1 Socket & Bow at a total length of 36 . According to Dan's post, the amount of the bow protruding should be 6¼ ...which...

this is a great show...hope someone brings some frames.....

I won’t be able to make it but I have a 26 frame about 3 hours north…

I already started the welding and filing process on the pedal cam, but the last two posts present viable, inexpensive solutions. Thanks for those.

A few comments: 1) If you are reaming the rear bushing to compensate for a front or center cam bearing bored off center, that's just plain bad practice. Replace the bearings or adjust your method of boring them to get them concentric with the OD. Reaming them to size in a bench vise is a good way to get them off center. They should always be bored...

45 including shipping?

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Looks like a lot of fun, Dallas. Always nicest when the cosmetics age together.

Extra points for being a working truck!

There are several wood wheel rebuilders. They service T wheels. I'm not sure about TT wheels.

I wish you weren’t so far from Texas. Mine was cast the same date. I can’t make out the serial but might have been made the same day. Mine is 429170

The Hayes rims are sold'

Ed aka #4

Definitely keep in touch Chuck ! It would be great to meet up with you folks ! And yes, there’s a lot of good Model T type roads in “Uta-Ho” !

Looking forward to touring weather !

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NEW PRICE BTT

Yes. Mr. Roadster. Thanks.

More photos

With the firewall and rear mounting frame in place, use stiff cardboard to make a pattern that fits the two components. That will give you the shape you need to cut in the steel sheet. Custom made for a custom fitment. No need to follow a plan .

Allan from down under.

Randall do you still have this hempy? Id love to get measurements from the cam blanks mine are missing

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Sold pending, Thank You all!

Ok thanks!

I like it, how soon can I get it delivered? :lol:
I like the longer hood though,maybe with that 6 cylinder experimental engine in it :D

Thanks Dan

Thanks Russ.

Frontyboy,

I can not give you a quick answer because what I think you are building is around 10% (guess here) of the speedsters built.
That makes getting information harder.
I don't know what is in your head so I can only give you areas to look and maybe something will stick.

Most I have seen use a setup like a '15-'16 firewall to cowl...

How about brass plating some steel bowls?

I will be attending again this year. I recommend this swap meet. I see potential for it growing each year. I did very well last year. Both buying and selling. For the first year to have the prewar added to the existing swap meet, I think it went very well. Kevin and his crew did great. As to the set up dates and time. It is a Thursday Friday...

Very nice!

2-ear knockoffs like this? Someone made these some years ago. Fit Buffalo and House #3, Model T size. Just 2 pieces, one right, one left. Chrome plated. Threads are sharp and snug, not wallowed out like many originals. Appear to have been used, but barely. There were more made, so maybe someone else will have another pair available. / Tim

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The meter is not original!

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Yep, I think I have attended or vended every year so far.

Good people, good vendors, good food and a great location...what's not to like? It's my favorite.

If you are on the fence about attending, I encourage you to.

Howard

Still for sale