MTFCA Forum

This was brought up on the Forum, recently, by Brent Terry of Tennessee. He was trying to find one on short notice and contacted vendors (I don't know which ones) and all were out. My guess is that something has slowed production in England. If and when they are available again, expect a higher price due to increased tariffs. I have one, and Brent...

It always amuses me how auctioneers and other uneducated people throw around the term, Barn Find , as vanderbrink did in the title of this auction. If all these items, or even just those on wheels that could roll, were found in a barn, that barn would have to be the size of an aircraft manufacturing facility !

Napa, on line & locally, has 30wt detergent & non detergent in their brand & valvoline 30 racing.

Hello Jack,
I sent a message and left one on your phone.
Ken Buhler

Honk!!!!!!!

Neat Detroit history!

deleted my post

Dennis

Lang’s has that pickup bed part.

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I find it interesting that the publication was Hawaii Territory and the British word bonnet was used as the hood over the engine. A lot of newspaper articles in that era got mixed up with automotive nomenclature. The automobile was still so new, and evolving quickly, that things like how the cylinders were arranged was often reported incorrectly.

Is there anyone in your local chapter that rebuilds and recalibrates coils?

We are heading out now from Solon OH. Shooting to get to WalMart trailer parking area by 8:30 or so.

I've have always used the same enamel used on the frame. The trans brake adds no heat. If one is in the habit of using the 26-7 lined emergency brake as a service brake, it may get too hot. If it does get hot enough to affect the paint, you have been on the brink.

Allan from down under.

thanks Chris if its a No3 ill have it

A bird in the hand is worth more than 2 in the bush!!!!!! As we all know the brass era cars have been dropping in value for the last several years. When I'm asked what any of my brass era cars are worth, I tell them It is only worth what some fool will pay me the day I want to sell it.

just sayin'
frontyboy

Looks like they had a good day grouse hunting. Looking at the shotguns, wondering if the pump was amodel 97 but it doesn't look right. The middle gun with the hammers is similar to my great grandad and still with someone in the family.

I used Bill to transport my '37 Cadillac Convertible Sedan from St. Louis to Michigan. I was very, very happy. He is a true professional. Thanks Bill
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Allan....I pulled them out years ago and put them away...They may not be as intact as I remember. I will know after I dig them out of storage. I may need to buy a set and have them re-silvered.

Today's Ford 20250712_185225.jpg

Great advice by Dan and Rich! A simple timer change over can easily cause your kickback problem if you either accidently cross a wire over or the timer you have installed is different to what you had. In this case it sounds like you have installed the same timer so the crossed wire sounds more viable? Double check connections at both timer and...

This old Giant Equipment brochure was posted on Facebook back in may. Judging by the early phone number it’s 1950s, since they changed to the 7 digit phone numbers in 1958-59.

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Thanks all. I bought a 12V battery.

As many times as I've driven across Missouri, I haven't made it to Appleton City yet.
Maybe someday.

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Need complete assembly

I don't know specifically what they are, other than being T-based speedsters.

The original poster specifically inquired about Mercury, Paco, or similar period correct speedsters.
Not T-based speedsters, as a general category.

Just made a few parts.

Andre
Belgium

There is a complete 1909 REO car for sale in Montana. It is a Vanderbrink Auction. here is the link to the auction. I also have it in a separate thread here in the Forum.

It is lot # 303M

Not picky, replacing the one stolen off my fathers T along with all the rest of the brass when he was in Vietnam. He had built it out of two tops when he was a kid.

What year/type - even halves ?

The late Stan Howe also re-printed the OF manual.

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Thanks Allen but. Clutch aka high/low pedal has cam and slow speed notch inside and are both reproduced for US LHD cars.
It is the reverse and Brake pedal that have cams made in the pedal.
Easy way for brake is to get a Rocky Mountain brake pedal I guess.

Anyone found an easy for the other pedals?

We’ve had some interest, but it’s still available. How about a price drop to $1,750. Happy to discuss trades for smaller stuff, parts, shiny brass, etc.

David, email works for me. I sent you an email.

7/32-32

Like Scott said above 7/32 - 32 listed in the original parts manuals, T-3536 and T-3537 (swivel and jamb nut). Close to a 12-.32, but it's not.

Sherman is a little over an hour from me. I'm listed in both magazines, or a family member is. Have them give me a call, or send a text through here. Charlie

No. They do not have any removable lock rings. One piece rims just like a Model T but 26 .I have a set of new Coker 34x4 but they are straight side.

Here are some links to previous discussions to add to some confusion
Dave Sosnoski researching handles
Differences
Regulator for 1926 to 1931

Thanks Frank for posting the links. The last one was to my own old post in 2011. I had forgotten about that post. It's Hell to get old.

New price is $9500

My apologies - I meant long gone as in retired ! Erik B. would know if he's still on the planet.

S bracket sold. L bracket still available.

Allan from down under.

I've seen the B tanks hung from the rear cross member of the frame, if that's any help whatsoever. (Not on Model T's, of course)

Can you please provide additional photos, especially engine, under carriage and front interior. Is this original engine and what is the block engine number? Many thanks...
Mike Barrett

Mike I sent you a private message. I have a google drive with 100 pictures I can send to you. Need an email address.

The only interchangeable parts are the large ball bearing and the shifter at the transmission

It was a long time ago, but if I recall correctly? These can be easily adapted to fit and work on a model T car. The biggest problem is that the magneto sits out somewhat beyond the outside of the frame rail. Not much of a problem for some speedsters, however a stock bodied car with stock hood has a real problem with the aesthetics.
The other main...

Fuse was the problem! A visual said element was not blown but ohm reading proved otherwise. Because of gen/ voltage reg problems, I have 6 v alternator on there now.

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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but these rims were a one year (1919) deal. Then Ford went to the rims with integral lugs. These rims are also used on Buffalo Disc wheels, but with a heavy retainer ring that went around the entire rim and the retainer ring was held in place with 4 lug bolts. Just FYI...........

Didn't get your email, so I sent you one, Dan!

Phil

Hi Robert, were you able to find them and are they for sale?

Yes they cost to ship, that's ok. What will I owe you for the boards? My cell 419-306-3966 for text

any condition?

What a great picture of an Aussie T. I like the water bag location

I completely overlooked that detail Layden. Thankyou for pointing it out.

Allan from down under.

The tube shifting in the tyre happens when the tyre is underinflated. The valve stem hole in the rim and the same in the felloe will tend to hold the valve stem vertical, so when the tube wants to shift it will tend to tear away from the stem. The same can happen with metal stem tubes. The correct tyre pressure is the answer.

On a 21 flat based...

I'll give you a call tomorrow!

When I repaired our fenders, i replaced the wire and put a bead undernaeth the cracks. Saw my uncle do that on a VW Beetle. The insurance man said that after an accident that it needed a bead to reinforce the area. He said that too soon, as the bead was already there.

Steve, thanks for your purchase. If you need any more, let me know.

George

Hi Richard, Brass Windshield Frame shipped, should receive by 7/15.

This page about cooling and flushing may help:

These videos show flushing:

I sent two of those otherwise great shape coils to someone in the mid-west to rebuild.

When I asked about them two years later, I was told they needed new points and none were available.

Evidently there are still no points available!

When I restored my Model N, I used the original Heinze coils. They all needed new points. I think RV may made...

I dont even have a car they would fit and I am tempted to buy them at the asking price.

Chris, you're too kind! Glad you enjoy the parts. It's a labor of love, as you well know!

Jeff

Still looking. Anyone in the Arizona vicinity?

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In the front pages of club magazine.

Good morning,
Is the engine frozen or does it turn over? Thanks

Back to the top.
Get a car and a rebuilt motor for about the price of a car. Or make me a reasonable offer.
R/S,
Jonathan Bodine
406 498 3946 or send an email through this website.

No longer available.

Thanks Kim!

Here's my work in progress....still need to add the springs, retainers and pins....but the more I look at this and the further I go, I am starting to see that I'm going to have to add a few things I hadn't planed on (cross sections of a valve line....the relationship of the valve to guide position in block, to spring, retainer, pin,...

Thanks much!

BTT - price reduction to $75 a set - drop me a note through the Forum, please.

Price improvement. :) :)

I ended up putting a 90* on the backside of the intake.

It's not visible except for the vacuum hose, if I were to plug it, at the 90 or with the 90 removed. it would not be visible at all.

Eagads, loctite instead of safety wire?!

maybe this is what you are looking for?