MTFCA Forum

I believe the lengths are shown in the parts books.

I taught Elizabeth how to do it. I use two 1X4's, and a 3/4" piece of plywood is a must. You must sew a piece of welting to the skirts for this to work. I'm sure that MIke's kits come that way.

It's great to see a 1913 the way it is supposed to be!

It's about time! Thankyou.

I wonder about the striping? I don't think they would have done it that way in 1905?

What I would like to know is if the KW coils were patented in 1914, how come they were used in late 1913?

I was looking at the Luray post of the clutch clevis, and it appears to me that clevis was used on a brake rod. Note the angle of it.

Steve: The photo you posted is it. Your catalog incorrectly states they were only used until 1911, which is not correct. I still see no information as to how late they used this domed head style!

I have a friend who put in a Mac's kit years ago, and he wasn't very happy with it. I believe they lied in their ads saying they had been making kits for over 20 years?

The Luray photo is it! However, my question still hasn't been answered! Maybe someone needs to check the record of changes for that number?

The varnish needs to be kept up in top shape. My '13 roadster was restored in the early 1950's but the natural finish was not kept up. The wood is still as tight as it left the factory, but it has dried out. When I painted the wheels correctly, I never thought the grain would show up as much as it d...

I don't know if I have any spares to take a photo of now. Think of a hub bolt, with it's high domed head. The clevis pin is the same thing on a smaller scale. The same goes for the crank handle rivet. The early ones are domed, and the late ones are not. I don't think they have ever been reproduced c...

What was the final year for the domed head clevis pin? Both my 1913's have them, and Russ says his 1915's do too. So, how much longer did they use them? Langs catalog incorrectly says they were used until 1911.

Put them wherever you wish! I keep mine under the seat where they can't be seen!

Being a former vendor myself, I wrote off Ecklers because they didn't pay their bills. Randall Anderson did the same.

I wrote off Mac's many years ago. If you want T parts, the only family you want to deal with is Lang's.

All we need now is a blueprint of the 1925 roadster/touring floor mat!

All associated firewall bolts are brass plated steel. There are eight bolts that still have the original brass plating. The side light brackets, and the four steering column bolts. The others I had to get replated.

Who sells Hartford tubes? Lucas isn't far from me, but he doesn't offer them.

Every nut and bolt that is associated with the firewall is brass plated steel on the above pictured car.

I'm glad to you are using the original set up rather than the incorrect rods. The cable available today is better than anything back than. I got my 3/16" cable from McMaster Carr for my Rocky Mountains. I'm not sure if that is the correct diameter for AC's.

You problem is, Model T's don't have a high beam!

Yes, Royce has an extensive knowledge of Model T's. Has anyone noticed Randall Anderson, rip, standing next to my car? In addition, I wrote a section in Bruce's book on 1913's when I was in my twenties. I've learned a few things since then!

They made a change in 1915 that I like, and doesn't appear above I think. The 1915 still has the short spout like a 1913, but allows us to use a modern camshaft seal. The longer spout came about 1917, which allows the owner to pour in oil at a faster rate.

I believe I know who bought it. I was offered $$$$$$ to pick it up and trailer it to the bay area, and use it on a tour up there, but was unable to because of previous commitments. The car is not a true 1915 either, as most of them in California are not.

You had fun, and that is what counts. There are some good points above, and the one I like, and have always done is to pour two quarts into the transmission before starting as mentioned above. I've been using multi-grade oil for years, and like it.

I flew out last year, and was there the previous year too, but due to the size of the meet and the expense from California, I can't justify it this year.

What difference does it make? The purpose of this forum is to trade interesting information about the Model T Ford!

I have been writing bits and pieces on 1913's for years, and am needing thoughts others may have on the subject. A few years ago, I purchased an extremely original runabout that was badly restored in the early 1950's. It had the original top and upholstery, but were not savable. I drove it for a cou...

I've recently emailed Blockley, and have had several nice emails from Julian, the owner. I'm impressed with the quality of his tubes. They are nice and heavy like they used to make them. The problem for me is the valve stems. They are not correct for Model T's, and therefore I'm unable to use them. ...

I know I'm going to get a lot of flap on this, but brass step plates irritate me! First of all Ford never ever offered step plates. Second, step plates were not used on anything for any car until around 1915. And lastly, I couldn't bear to drill the holes in my nice original running boards! Running ...

Look at the factory photo closely, and note the choke wire is offset at the bottom.

It is most likely a mid to late '14. I haven't seen a '14 with the stamped serial plate that low yet. They moved it up around 1915.

First of all, Ruckstells don't use grease! I use straight SAE 140 wt.oil. I suppose a multigrade would be ok too, but haven't tried it.

Of course there were a lot of Model T's! Over 50% of the automobiles on the road back in the day were Fords.

Beware of any 1915 Ford in California! Many of them are not 1915's at all, and a converted from later Model T's.

There is also a small metal plate that goes under the carrier.

I've been using original New Days for over 50 years. They are the best. I understand the most recent ones made by Tom Carnegie are very good, but don't need to try one, as I have a good supply of originals. The brushes on the new ones as pictured are a bit wider than the originals.

There is no place for chrome on a T. Nickel has to be done by a company that specializes in the early method of nickel plating, I believe it's called hard nickel or watts nickel. Christensen Plating in Los Angeles did mine over ten years ago, and it's still good, never needs polishing. I hear they m...

There is nothing wrong with the early KW coils. I have them in both of my 13's and they are extremely reliable, possibly better than the later ones.

I have an original KW 1913 coilbox, that is misbehaving. I can't see any visual evidence that there is a carbon trail, but that is what it seems. I'm not much of an electrical minded person, so am interested in hearing true answers, and no speculation. I didn't think it was possible to get a carbon ...

I haven't heard from Blockley yet. I still don't have a satisfactory answer to my question. I want to be able to order a tube with the valve stem hole in it, so I can use my own valves. I have enough originals to last me forever. If I have to order Blockleys tubes with their valves that's fine, but ...

Why not just put in the key after the cap?

I haven't heard from Julian today. I'm still hopeful Blockley can supply us with a tube that has a removeable stem, or better yet, a tube with the correct size hole in it to insert our own valves. I'm impressed with the quality of the tubes I saw, and have no idea what the valves were for, and that ...

I'm still communicating with Julian at Blockley. He is a very nice man, and is trying to help me. The problem for now is they use the metric system, and I don't understand that. The large diameter valves work, but are too big in diameter for our application. I prefer the 2 3/4 inch length as opposed...

I understand Centari has been discontinued. Is that just out west in California or nationwide?

I agree with the above statement. I use Dill too. I'm working with a lad named Julian that is trying to help me with this matter. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed. If he can help, I told him they will sell thousands of those tubes if done correctly! Not only that, but we will not have to use fla...

I recently had the pleasure of seeing some new Blockley tubes. They are heavy duty, and will not require flaps. The problem is, the valve stems are horrible! We need to get together and tell Blockley to address this problem. My suggestion is to have them supplied to us with the correct size valve st...

Today would have been the first day for the Tulare meet. Oh well, I've just about got my car ready for the tour on Monday.

I don't know if Snyders has corrected his mis-information yet, but awhile back he was selling those clamps pictured above that stated Just like Henry made them! Well, of course that was a lie. He offered the correct ones in the Model A section at four times the price!

John Von Karvaly nailed it. I believe the photos Dan posted are the later design. I don't understand what toilet paper has to do with this post!

Neither are correct. The new ones you have are sort of correct, but don't have the proper slot in part of them. I went through this several years ago, and the correct ones I found were for Model A's in Snyders Model A section for four times the price. As I've said many times on this forum, do your h...

I assume a few U.S. cars have made their way to Canada?

Thanks for all the meaningful posts! I believe my friend has found a pair. He will know in a week. I do believe that Lang's and Snyder's should join forces and get the correct ones made with all the pre 1919 cars that are still on the road!

Most of you are aware of sub-standard parts, but this one is important. I'm trying to help a new member with an original 1915. He needs the correct axle housing caps for the car, and they are not available. I think that is disgusting with the number of pre 1919 T's on the road today. I don't want to...

Wish I could join you this year!

Who would buy one of those without knowing the years they fit? 2510 or 2510 1/2?

I like the post above. I have that luxury.

It depends how pure you wish to be. I sent some original looms to a well known harness maker, because I wanted my looms exactly as original. The guy even wove in the Ford tags. The cost for this was double the show quality looms available, but it was worth it to me.

I agree with Jeff above. Why change a proven system?

I've been there twice. It's a lot of fun, but quite an expense from California! I flew out last year to Richmond, and was able to view the countryside on the way there.

I had some of the springs reproduced recently for the original brakes, and am willing to sell them for $10 each.

I have those instructions too. I believe there is a page 2 for them also, but haven't seen a page 2. You might notice the cams on the bands for adjusting the alignment of the band. The first series brakes did not have this, and would have to be added to be 100% correct. The first series I'm referrin...

Please state the year you are looking for!

The photos above are on my 1913 runabout. Thanks for posting! They are 100% original Rocky Mountain Brakes.

The problem with reproduction parts is they don't always reproduce the part correctly. The same goes with the current Rocky Mountain Brakes. If they were made the way they were made originally, there wouldn't be a need for axle shims. The original drums used a standard brake drum, with the Rocky Mou...

Do your homework Steve! 1915 brackets are all by themselves. I think they are being reproduced in brass. You may luck out and find an original. I bought a NOS original from Alvin Anderson back in the sixties for $3! How many of you remember him?

There is nothing like the originals! A simple 3/16" cable to an equalizer, and a clamp to the standard brake pedal. The new ones work well, but why did Jack Sunderlin do it this way? He started off making them correctly, but got side tracked and thought all equalizers were alike, and that is why the...

Another change on the 1918 rear housing is they lowered the filling plug.

Don Lang had a real nice one at Hershey a few years back. Dan Killecut owns it now.

There was another 1917 town car in the Harrah collection for years. Who knows what happened to that one?

Whether you use Schrader, Dill or Bridgeport tire valves, the choice is yours. I like 2 3/4" valves as opposed to the original 3" length. You still use the same number of threads, and there is just enough room for the rim nut. With the dust cap installed you can't tell. Why? Probably that 1/4" cuts ...

Remember when Mike and Suzie were going to shut the meet down several years back/

Most people will not agree with me. I use a standard Ford battery box and lid, with a six volt battery. I'm using an Auto Zone battery. It cranks the engine over as good as a 12 volt, without damaging the bendix drive either. I had to put a thin piece of plywood inside the battery box to raise it to...

Thanks Bill for all the work you have done. I'll see you there.

It would have been fun to visit with you Mike, but I couldn't justify the trip. The last two times, the attendance has been less than half of what it once was.

Go ahead and use it! It looks to be in nice shape. So many of them have a big groove in them.

Your spring has a totally different profile than the 7 leaf spring. This design was adopted in 1925, They added one more leaf, and lowered the profile 1 inch. You need to find the correct spring.

Pretty cool. I wouldn't mind having it for one of my cars. Any identification on it?

Maybe it's a Perfecto? Check with Richard Gould.

Are you still not shipping to California?

I've used the Ford parts books for this purpose. They show the pictures, but most of the time they are a year behind what was actually supplied with your car.

Why not try posting this ad on the classified section?

Why can't an American company make tubes correctly? I have two examples of Firestone tubes made back in the sixties. If they could do it then, why not now? The next statement is the the valves. If the Model A guys can do it, why can't we? They are making the correct valves stems for Model A's, which...

I used to like Chickasha a lot, but now it's only half the size it used to be. It's not worth the expense to fly out there any more. Too bad.

Forget those!

I advise you to use the original running boards, if they are correct. The repros are not the same. The easiest way to tell, among other things, is the holes for the carbide generator will be drilled on both sides.

Too bad there isn't a date on that report. I think from the service bulletins, the new design came out in 1924?

It looks like that wheel would fit right on either one of my '13s with no problem, color and all!

All passenger car parts are interchangeable, whether Hall Scott or Eaton.

There is also a cupped dust washer that goes on the end of the steering shaft before the nut.

I use a genuine Ford switch on my 1925.

Real Rocky Mountain brakes have no rods!

There is really a Model T Service Bible! I have one. I've only seen one other. It has a leather cover, with gold leaf lettering and the owners name.

I made my top from the original. The rear portion of the top was missing. I made that from existing information. The front top socket has a slot in the curvature of the socket for nails, which the 1923 sockets do not have.

As Jeff mentioned above, you have to be aware of the year of the car to know what tools were supplied for the year car. There have been several articles on this subject in the past.

I have the spindle bolts that R.V. had made which I believe are .502. They are exactly like Ford made them. I hope Lang's is continuing to make them like that. I have them in both of my 1913's. I hope we eventually get another member as talented as R.V. was. He was an amazing person, and a good frie...

Look at the first photo carefully. I believe it is a very late 1912. Notice the placement of the rear door hinge, and the detachable front door. Sorry Tim.

Layden: Looks like a 1913 to me!

I'm glad I started collecting them when I did. People are starting to find out the repros aren't the same as the originals. They can't even make a bridge washer correctly!

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