MTFCA Forum

Quite sure Larry "Original" Smith might be able to assist on that.

Bill Bohlen produces a nice, round black mirror that utilizes 2 of the w.s. hinge screws - might check into those.

I have one of each Jack & always was under the impression the primer cup model was earlier.

Most likely the block was a later original Vaporizer block so no hole between the cylinders.

I thought it might be one of those accessory "California Hardtop" kits.

It should go from the - post on the battery to the frame right near the battery carrier in the frame. Make sure both connections are "hospital" clean & shiney !!!

Contact Dan McEachern - IMO - his design is the best !

I believe it was Parrish & Bingham.

Those clips are soft brass - nonferrous. Are you positive there was one in place ? If so, it must not have been bent over & it most likely got sucked into the combustion chamber via the intake valve. If the engine didn't start, it could be in the muffler.

What type of lamps are you going to use ? Makes a difference in the style of bracket.

That's my heater on our '19 Centerdoor ! There's a couple pieces of tin under the floorboards that connect to the register.

There is an additional part that attaches to the floorboard - it's called a "kick register".

I believe the word was "spurious", Pat.

I've seen tank fronts on Ebay once in a while !

Black one is a Kingston, Matt.

I can really appreciate your cribbing Val !

I understand that the tube stem hole isn't the same place as the Ford.

Hand Crank Coil Tester, Darel !

Fella on the hood looks like a young Robert Kennedy !

Mark - does your brass hub come w/new blades riveted on ?

Thanks Mark - I'll be on the phone tomorrow a.m. !

I tighten the bolt snug already being oiled up - the nut just locks the adjustment but you can over-tighten the nut.

Originally, they were peened over - I prefer Blue Loktite & a few of stakes with a prick-punch. No torque - just tight.

Anyone happen to have one of Lang's brass hub fan w/bearings ? Drop me a note through the forum if you have one that's needs a good home !!!

I found one in a marina on Lake Washington that was being used as a "surface plate" for aluminum outboard motor heads - 40 years ago - might still be there ! Old timer wouldn't sell it.

I built mine up many years ago from plans by the fellow named Gingery - does a great job !

I have a NOS Penberthy gas gauge in the box.

No - not like that one !

Appear to be Model A.

Jay B. might have me beat but I've been collecting accessories for 30+ years - there was a fella in Kansas or Indiana maybe, that had a ton of accessories also.

I might Gary - I'll check.

I saw a pocket watch holder that mounted on a Model T steering wheel spoke - "cat's meow" on that one !

Jack Putnam was having them re-cast & available - he frequents here occasionally.

It's just fine - paint 'er up & go with it !

BTT - any offers for a dandy horn ?

Good originals rare - Larry Smith was having a dandy copy reproduced.

Off the top of my head Richard - T exhaust is 1 & 1/2" - block bores are 1 & 1/8".

That style works just fine IF you take the time to lift the handle up just a smidge BEFORE turning. It's alot better than some of the cobbled up plumbing store hardware I've seen installed !

I agree Larry - they appear to have been made like the original oil /radiator petcocks. The newer repro style has a shorter spring and a screw holding it together.

George has the correct procedure for both types of valves - simply lift up a smidge off the seat BEFORE turning then simply apply a bit of downward pressure - no leaks !

Those seals had been "modified" years ago to have a narrow ledge removed so as to not having to trim the sleeve.

Nice work Tom ! How tall are you ? I'd have to move the seat up a foot for me !

Thank you for that explanation !

Whichever one which is NOT warped !

Check out the size of that gas tank on the speedster in photo #5 - can't make out the hood writing but they're headed on a heck of a trip with that much gas !!!

Melba - can you explain as to what a "burner cone" is, please ?

I'm running a BB w/dual plugs BUT I also made a header. Perhaps with some creativity, you could turn the manifold UP and build accordingly ?

Contact Kevin Pharis in California - he might have rims in stock - they come from Australia or New Zealand - he built me a new set of Buffalo wires for our '19 Centerdoor - won't find any better workmanship !

TT rear rims are a different animal than the car rims.

Found a couple thanks to Walt & MTFCA !

It looks like this, Frank - my apologies for heisting the photo ! Apparently the fella quit making them a while back.

BTT - anyone ?

Anyone happen to have one or two of those good gas shut-off valves that were available from Lang's a few years back ? The "other" current type available can be problematic.

I'd like to purchase that Walt - I'll send you a note.

Mark packed up and moved to Florida !

That was a great tour - too bad we weren't acquainted back then Rich ! I remember Chris & his wife. We drove our '19 Centerdoor up the damn hill everyday - one of the last trips, Diane says "I smell smoke" - floorboards were just about ready to combust - made a mad dash to the shoulder & we both bai...

Open cars didn't have carpet.

Decline - just read the label - states '23 - '25.

I'd like to have those Kevin - sending you a note.

Verify your wheel size - you'll need the appropriate road gear - 23" wheel takes a 60 tooth - 21" takes a 58 tooth - pinion the same - 16 tooth - 8 pitch.

I "assumed" when he stated that he replaced the axles in October, they were new replacements.

I'm in John's camp here - those do not appear to be new axle threads - did you use repro nuts ?

I believe so - all speedos were accessories by that time - Stewart most common - AC also available.

The headlight switch for a '25 is the lever on the key switch.

If all is adjusted correctly, handbrake lever nearly vertical should be more or less neutral - wet clutch has no "real" neutral.

Back up again for the New Year !

Snyder's shows them available for AA - 2 different lengths but one should be correct for a TT.

Just a bit off topic, fellas - there's a topic column for OT Darel !

It appears that distributor set-up could be a Bill Rader item due to the bell crank for the spark lead arms.

Here's some Winfield "eye candy" !!! Not for sale at this time ! I intended on installing it on my BB RAJO w/Winfield SRB years ago but I have a Winfield intake now and didn't want to change out the throttle & fuel.

I run both types of ignition systems - it's simply a matter of personal choice - it's your Model T !!!

Thanks Kevin !

Joe - I'll post a photo of a Winfield convertible intake manifold for a Model A but fits a BB RAJO that I found many years ago - it has a removable, gasketed plate that I was told could be changed out for a single or multiple carbs - never seen one before.

Got a photo or ad of one ?

My apologies for "assuming" ! That is an interesting arrangement - what year is your Touring ?

My wife regularly assists in putting our '14 Touring top up & down - it's named 2 man for a reason. Quite easy with one person on each side - we start by unclipping the w.s. strap, folding the farthest front iron back to the rear, lower receptacle insert & clip then begin folding the top down until ...

I don't believe Ford ever used stainless on T production.

If your starter stud is "loose", that's the first & most likely main problem attempting the 6 v. start up !

What condition is the starter in ? Clean brushes, bushings/bearings in perfect alignment & snout bushing within serviceable limits ? Our co-admin on this site is a starter guru & can set you up with a 12v. starter IF need be. Most any Winfield can be a bit finicky but up here in the PNW, moisture is...

Thanks Fellas !

I'm running a very similar set up to yours and my SR doesn't appreciate much choke AT ALL ! I am running a 12 volt system - the 6 volt doesn't appreciate the compression either !

Do yourself a favor Ron & purchase a set of flare nut wrenches - inexpensive and you'll find other uses for them !

Open to offers - sure like to get them off the floor !

Attempting to figure out metric tube sizes - 760 x 90 is 24" (30x3) - didn't locate the 23" (30 x 3.5) on the web site. What stem hardware is available ?

These are the "Stevens" equivalent to the above tool shown but in 1/2" p. for T's.

Wow - are those your Christmas presents ????? I just cleaned up my rod fixture with solvent as the original finish was fine - it's a Stevens - my KRW trans. drum fixture, I lightly bead blasted & repainted. I see the "sea-lion" for checking the rods is present - those are almost never with the fixtu...

Removed from a '15 runabout to install R.M. brakes - I didn't remove the pivot bolts - I'd take $150 + the ride. Drop me a note through the Forum, please.

According to some "older" published material on accessory transmissions, for the Muncie, the d.s. should be shortened by 13 & 1/4".

Original, era Tiger timers had a burgundy colored insulator ring - later imported ones had an orange colored ring.

On hold for Kevin - I'll call you after Christmas.

Those top iron saddles were an accessory in the States but I've seen them on Canadian cars mostly.

KR Wilson was one such producer of engine lifting tongs - best for flat firewall T's with firewall removed but one can reposition to get an angle on them to remove from others.

BTT for the weekend ! Offers ?

This is how it mounts up.

Maybe so BUT, does it migrate better ?

Larry is referring to the large fiber thrust washer inside the Ruckstell assembly - not the small washer between the axle shafts.

Any interest in a used 12v. non-starter, bolt on alternator kit. Changed a friend's '15 back to 6v. for electric start conversion. Complete & ready to bolt on. $150.00 + the ride. drop me a note through the Forum, please.

The lower pulley is also ribbed - doesn't show in photo.

Kevin beat me to it - stripped threads were re-threaded & used for "something" other than a T.

I had to get the dictionary out Doc !!!

Good idea on the skewers !

Thanks Kim - I'll take a look but tough to find a brass hub with much crown left ! I installed a new, machined brass hub from Lang's on our '14.

They are valve actuators for extra lift.

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