MTFCA Forum

Kerry

Peter, I don't buy those figures for a second, first off, Canada only built in 1914, 18771 T, s by 1915 the brits had taken control of shipping. The Ford model T in WW1 publication from July 1914 to Nov 1918, Briten alone had built up a fleet estimated between 20-30,000 T's 1914/15 NSW's alone, new ...

Kerry

Yes, that was some interesting reading back in 2010. That article that Arthur Davies wrote in 1925 claiming the Australia had 5000 unsold T's always played on my mind so several years ago I did some digging on that claim but more so in shipping and politics of that time frame of 15/16/17. More paper...

Kerry

Magneto battery charger, I use 2 on my 16's, Bittner made a 6v and a 12v and have worked for me for many years with no issues.

Kerry

Looks like the clutch finger adjustment is just about maxed out.

Kerry

If you read Langs part listing on these mounts, the holes need to be drilled and the belt slots to be filed.

Kerry

I'd have to say that never come across factory spec on weights, the Ford service book only stipulates that when replacing, that pistons are approximately the same weight.
I'm sure that would apply for a rod as well.

Kerry

Wayne.
If you have seen or had it happen to you that a sleeve even moves .001" let alone 7mm. then that engine machinist did not know what he was doing.

Kerry

More like the transition from 22 to 23, still the 2 man top and straight windshield but with a steel firewall.

Kerry

What's the condition? not too good. What shape are the top of the pistons? being bored 125 thou would exceed the head gasket to seal correctly, 24 thou is too much float in the crank for the magneto.

Kerry

The weather was kind to us for the week but no place to hang around after all was done and dusted, well no dust really, just another 4 inches of rain on it's way

Kerry

Wayne, good information but not really covering the question of TT's.

Kerry

Air valve? looks more like a tickling primer to me.

Kerry

Been using it for more than 50 years, the trick is for a good even reading and easy removal is to oil the cap and crank.

Kerry

.0015" clearance.

Kerry

Chris, that's the trouble with cyberspace, once it's out there, it's floating around for ever, TW dose not exist anymore as Tony past away. Trying to find the right brushes has been fruitless so far.

Kerry

One thing I will add is you must hold the piston somehow when doing up the wrist pin bolt in order to not twist the alignment of the rod.

Kerry

Yes, the block length of the center bearing is 2-1/8". Early built engines would have the cap made to the same length with a babbitt flange each end. I still do that but many rebuilders don't, some even end up with a front bearing cap in the center one which are 1-15/16" long.

Kerry

I don't recall that the service book gives a clearance spec on side play of the rod, back in the day you bought new rods or Ford offered a change over service for them. Anyway, the rod babbitt width is 1-1/2" same as crank. When I do rods at 1-1/2" that can give up to several thou on a good crank.

Kerry

If a hot rodder dumped a V8 in it, he is still going to call it a 1912 T

Kerry

Tim, yes that can be the case when it comes to body styles, Parts books are printed in Canada in the same format as the USA ones just labeled Overseas Edition, I also have one printed in New Zealand, still the same but adding their local prices for parts. I do like to try and learn the differences o...

Kerry

What body is it?

Kerry

Tim, I'm sure that a lot of research went into guidelines for judging but I have to say that maybe our overseas Ford parts books may differ from Canadian ones?, example, only list one steering rim as 16" wood to 1923, then a change to the 17" another the horns, Magneto up to 1927 and with it's own p...

Kerry

Allan, can't help on a date from round to square, parts books only say non- demountable tapered rear hub 1912 until 1920, or less hub 1909 to 20 and demountable start in 1919. As for the photo, I zoomed in at 500% and 99% sure they are square felloes.

Kerry

Or, it's simply what parts books list, a sloping style windshield with lamp pads, 1920 to 23.

Kerry

I can rule out any date past 1920, it has an upper front radius rod with a lower kit on it, and I can rule out any date pre 1920, those hood bow clamps, unique to Canadian T's starting in 1920.

Kerry

I think we can get it a little closer to a year, Canadian parts book list both the sloping windshield and one man top starting in 1920, well before the USA model, so to have the new windshield but using the run out of a 2 man top (1919) I'm sure it would make it an early 1920 model.

Kerry

I'd say the touring has fixed bottom windshield glass and sloping frame. 1923/25. on a second look it also has a LH door so Canadian, which could make it a year earlier than a USA sloping windshield model. But still has a 2 man top.

Kerry

colour-tower-diagram-fractional-distillation-of-crude-oil.png Agreed, I'm sure that the boundry was explored without mechanical changes like the carburetor for what fuels could be used, example, one of my T's still had it's dealership sales invoice with it and had on it that the T was filled with 8...

Kerry

Pat, may be of interest to you, I found it interesting, BMW, so the story go's, have started actively denying warranty claims if owners didn't make the switch to 10W-60 from the original recommended 5W-30, dated 2017. And now have engineered crank bearing tolerances to run 10W-40. I'm sure that Germ...

Kerry

Yes that's right.

Kerry

And what lubrication is happening in a hydrodynamic bearing if oil can leave as fast as it can be delivered at 0,, oops that answered it's self, Zero

Kerry

Pat, It seems that you will never understand the needs of a Hydrodynamic system requirements to operate correctly if you keep comparing it to a pressurized dynamic system

Kerry

Pat, you should really read this thread from top to bottom again, for example in your last post you state "with no adverse issues whatsoever" No one has said that Hot on 0w-20 would give issues, the oil at operating temperature is what Henry recommended by then, acting as a 20, It's the 0 at cold th...

Kerry

Shawn, Yes.

Kerry

Experimenting with what oil to use is one's own choice but if it turns out to be a failure a full rebuild here in Australia with crank and drums etc will exceed $11.000.oo US.

Kerry

Still a few issues that need sorting, that wire around the wrist pin bolts will come adrift when running and oil holes need to be drilled in the pistons for the wrist pins, also fibre cam gears are known not to last long on a generator block.

Kerry

The debate is mostly based on one side by opinion and not the understanding of today's oil in old design bearings. First, a splash bearing relies 100% on hydrodynamic lubrication, meaning that shaft to bearing pressurizes the oil in a wedge between the faces. Now the oil, A multi grade oils does not...

Kerry

It has forma-truck gearing fitted so that's about all it would anyway.

Kerry

In what instructions do Ford recommend anything lighter than light oil of 20W you call it grease to use 20

Pat, stick some OW in one spindle and a 20W in the other and see what's on the shed floor the next day.

Kerry

I think that the point of very low W is some what miss-under stood. Penrite oil chemists cover it so basically all should understand one of the few problems it presents. Veteran and vintage engines have requirements that differ from modern technologies and tolerances. Modern thin oils designed to ci...

Kerry

Yes, one's opinion can be validated by their own experiences in spite of what petroleum chemists say and modern engine designs require. Rather that post endless facts against your belief that a OW starting point of a multi grade oil is a good thing, research what Penrite, Castrol, Mobil or any other...

Kerry

Nor was it designed to run Ow

Kerry

Pat, that's like saying I run 12v on all my 8v bulbs and never blown one! the simple fact is you still know that they are not designed to run that way.

Kerry

John, best to research facts instead of what Royce has to say, check out what manufactures of oil products have to say. to sum it up it's simple.

Engine oils with light viscosity multigrades are not suitable in Veteran, vintage and historic engines.

Kerry

Today I was informed from someone who just fitted 4 Blockley's that in very small print is, Made in Vietnam.

Kerry

The problem is for those who think thinner must be better, a well known machine shop owner, now deceased, would quote, "oil is good so more must be better " well that's not the case, what oil is there must do it's job. Modern engine design with tighter clearances and pump pressure, work fine for tho...

Kerry

0W is thinner than flushing oil, just what an old engine needs, an enema

Kerry

If as you say marked as a 10 gallon, that would be a USA T dip stick. British imperial stick would be for around 8 gallons.

Kerry

It was just a curiosity thing on looking up what engine parts could be bought after the end of T. 1928 parts books, USA the choice of re-building was 5 different Over Size pistons or a complete engine, less starter for $125.00 The 1928 over-seas parts book, Ford Canada, no option of a complete engin...

Kerry

Myself I don't use synthetic in a T for the reason that it has additives to reduce internal friction for which the T clutch pack works on friction to operate correctly and I think you will find it's not recommended for wet clutch motor cycles as well.

Kerry

Shawn, most of the time that Autobarn, Super cheap or Repco have oil on special It's 15-30 or 15-40 that's perfect for a T in Australia for a good condition engine. Summer time can even use 20-50 and change the oil often.

Kerry

Check what voltage the mag is putting out, it might be ok and your coils need tuning.

Kerry

Head off and helicoil the bolt hole.

Kerry

12/1 would be a December build so if the C is 1925 that would be right cast for the 26 model, The S7 is more than likely a cast mold number. Not that uncommon to come across no engine number, seen a few, I just finished a re-build of a 26 with no number.

Kerry

With out spending a fortune, Ebay has sets made in India, work OK on cast iron but not to flash on hardened seats.

Kerry

More photo's on face book post, seems who ever had been working on the engine is not a T guy, all the pan bolts are upside down, makes one wonder what else could be not right. With such a rare T, the new owner better allow for a dismantle and inspection.

Kerry

Use drive shaft pinion nuts or turn some off the original ones.

Kerry

Early Chev inlet .0005 to .0025" and exhaust .002 to .004" so maybe a 1/2 thou tighter on your inlets.

Kerry

Next problem, getting a head gasket

Kerry

Your trying bandaid repairs, buy a new radiator.

Kerry

I don't think that "invented" would be the appropriate wording, more like designed.

Kerry

Looks a bit like a 6 cylinder Essex engine.

Kerry

Reverse drum.

Kerry

Ask your self if your weather conditions require antifreeze or just a corrosion inhibitor. The Ethylene Glycol in antifreeze will shorten the life of your radiator, it slowly dissolves solder. My farther loved the stuff, made him a very wealthy man in replacing radiators.

Kerry

Just checking parts book, Ford had 4 core configurations for the tall radiator, single row flat tub, 3 round, 4 and 5.

Kerry

Can't help on Fords time line or intent but others had beaten him to it to have electric start, charge and lights. Grey and Davis was one to build such a unit for T's 1915 and General Electric Co, the Genemotor, was another unit built just for T's.

Kerry

Well the answer is simple for me, I've owned many vintage cars over the years and always wanted a veteran car, it just happened to be a brass T, I found very easy to get parts, fun to drive and now only have T's.

Kerry

Some 50+ years ago when I started work in the motor trade, the shop had a tool looking the same, to tighten a strap/chain around the circumference of tubeless tires to seal the bead while inflating.

Kerry

The brake drum band would have nothing to do with hard start, when turning the engine over with the car not moving the drum does not turn. It will be a problem with the clutch pack, the original steel plate ones are well known to be a pain with, A, thicker oil, B, worn lugs in the drum that the larg...

Kerry

My supplier went up about 120% and a minimum of 10 kilos. I think they try to flip the stock as quick as possible so they don't get stuck with the dear stuff if the stock market price drops for tin.

Kerry

Canadian T's had the lower filler plug as early as 1915.

Kerry

Keith, all the T's are the same, oil filler plug is on the right side housing so if you say yours is on the drivers side then you must have a RHD Canadian T.

Kerry

Harry, only if you mess with drive ratio's.

Kerry

How much oil? well the vendors sell it by the qt and list that only one is required.

Kerry

David, think about it, the belt driven one turns clock wise with the crank and the gear driven one off the cam gear. The crank clock wise then the cam anti clockwise so generator will be clock wise so both the same.

Kerry

For starters, the steering box is under the steering wheel. The tube can only go one way after undoing the bolts at the flange on the fire wall.

Kerry

I post this on this forum because I think more Aussies read this than the numbers of followers of local face book sites. For many years the vendors have post parts from the USA via USPS for us to receive by Australia post at our end, worked OK. Then FedEx started, worked fine and quick as well. So m...

Kerry

Babbitt, although named after the inventor, is a generic term, babbitt is of many mixes with %'s of heavy metals for different applications of bearings. I would think it would cost you more for testing than just buying what you need of a known mix.

Kerry

From Dec 1912 to the introduction of the high head no noticeable changes.

Kerry

The new pistons are listed at modern specs of 2 to 3 thou and by engine machining specs, piston clearance is not measured by running clearance so the manufactures clearance is too tight for the T's for the reasons listed on above comments. So I bore to .0035" for a starter T and .004" for a crank st...

Kerry

To answer your question, that part of the seal is no more than a dust seal, unimportant for this type of application. the inner part of the seal with the spring pressure is what's sealing.

Kerry

Starter ring gear is a bit sad as well, time to start a savings piggy bank for a major rebuild in the up coming future.

Kerry

Push the Resources link on the home page and find all that is needed to be known.

Kerry

Yes, should be full of grease, if all washed out and only oil in it then the oil is coming from the engine through the worn babbitt in the 4th bearing ball cap. Check your diff oil level as well, a lot of engine oil can end up there as well.

Kerry

Jim, only the high low pedal has the nut and washer on it in a RHD hogs head, it's the brake pedal that gets in the way when trying to remove the engine on a RHD.

Kerry

For what I can see in the ads, the first one lists 8 fins per inch which is not a lot and the second one shows the core as off set tubes so the second one would be the better one.

Kerry

Yes Tim, that works great on LHD T''s but not on RHD ones.

Kerry

Lift the engine on No 2 cyl and you get enough angle to get the pedals out from under the firewall on RHD. Trying to get the pin out to remove the pedal will give you nothing but grief with no success.

Kerry

The induction coil wasn't unique to Ford, it was used on many other ignition systems of cars and stationary engines at that time.

Kerry

Clutch fork in the wrong slot of the cultch shift ring.

Kerry

Sounds like the spring cup hasn't got the pin in it's locating spot.
Reducing the pin height on the push ring will do nothing, for what is removed is replaced by screwing in the adjusters to put the clutch shift ring back to the 13/16" clearance and put the spring exactly as is now.

Kerry

The builder at that time used pistons made by JAHNS, the problem they had was not having oil holes drilled for the wrist pin and ran the risk of locking up. But after running for some 33 years, yours don't seam by what can be seen in the photo's to have issues.

Kerry

As Rob's articles say in 1906, running on alcohol was never the problem, like today the closest for the modern car to be safe is a 85% blend because pure alcohol burns with a non luminous flame, imagine the risks back then as a fuel, I'm sure many found out the hard way!

Kerry

In that film clip shows what I think is a very poor choice by the Ford company to represent a period icon like the Model T.

Kerry

One reason why the T had a problem running on alcohol back in 1908, was the carburetor float was cork and sealed with shellac which dissolves in alcohol resulting in the float sinking.

Kerry

I'm in the old school camp, making sure the clincher rims are in good condition and use no flaps or liners as Henry did.

Kerry

The original 1928 Canadian over seas editions have the Ruckstell in it.

Kerry

Apparently by those in the know of Australia's T history, we never got a starter model T until late 1921 for the 22 model because of the steering issue needed to be sorted for RHD. Although parts books do back date the starter to 1919.

Kerry

The problem is not what the gasket is made of but the condition of the block and head surfaces, copper is more forgiving to imperfections in the poor and warped surfaces. If the head and block are freshly decked then a modern gasket is fine.

Kerry

With all parts in spec in the drive line and measuring at a wheel nut on a demountable, one inch rock is all that you should be getting.

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