MTFCA Forum

Jim - carefully twist off the little brass piece off the tube stem then air up your tire. You need a large hex wrench to screw the adapter back into the cover.

Those are accessory stem covers to look like old timey covers ! The adapter came off from inside.

Thanks fellas - I’m having email & phone problems and attempting this communication on a phone I don’t use - should be back online Friday.

My wife sent you a text about the radius rods - I don’t text.

It was one of your bronze gears Dan.

I’m familiar with this car - it was on before he changed out the cam gear.

Most likely gear mesh John. Even though you think you installed it just as it was removed, chances are you’re a tooth or two off which is preventing it to seat on the gear cover.

Anyone happen to have a decent pair of radius rods ? Even better if they’ve been shortened for a Warford ! Our landline & internet is down so please contact through the Forum.

On T headlamps, the ground is usually the culprit !

Those drums are riveted to the hub, aren't they ? Unless you wanted to remove the rivets to chuck the drums up in a lathe, Norm's idea might suffice for the inside - outside area I'd use a good file if there's room to get in there with the wheel turning very slowly.

Looks real good Morgan !

Yowza !!! Nice looking ride !

I also run a 3 speed Warford & agree with Pat - try & find someone that knows how to shift the beast and pay attention.

Jacob - look for 32 x 4 &1/2 tires - that's the equivalent to a 33 x 5. I have a '24 TT with 21" on the fronts & 32 x 4 & 1/2's on the rears - I carry 2 mounted spares - one of each !

I'd replace the copper line with steel.

My S.I.L.'s little brother is a "whiz-bang" aluminum welder - he could weld it but it's a 2+ hour ride there & back. It's never been installed so welding it should be O.K. I was never too keen on that arm arrangement on those distributors !

Here's what a Rader distributor looks like. I guess I might be able to "swing" it farther left if I don't hit the oil fill cap !

Yes - that broke clean off ! I'll get a photo posted after the T Club meeting today.

Any chance of an "orphan" distributor housing for a Bill Rader distributor hanging on a wall or nail in somebody's garage ??? Friend brought in a rebuilt engine all covered & wrapped as it made a 1000 mile road trip and "someone" pushed on the front of the engine not knowing what was under the packa...

Found a pair - thanks Steven & MTFCA !

Anyone have a decent pair of hub flanges available ?

Found one Steve - reply if interested.

Check again Norm - memory is the second thing to go !

Still looking Steve ? I'll see if I have one.

Pretty sure the Model A has the same firing order Norm.

Modern mirror - dead giveaway !

Those rear wheels are 32 x 4 & 1/2 not lock ring type.

Has "FORD" script on the block so it's earlier than '26 - '27. Can you read the serial number and/or casting date on the side of the block ?

I thank you kindly Peter ! I attempted to send you an email but was most likely an old address.

Thanks Frank !

No, I had not - thanks Rich !

I'm attempting to assist a local upholstery gal locate any photos of a 1909 Towncar interior - front , back & top both inside & out for a friend's recently acquired project. I've done some searching on the web but not much out there - anyone here might have any documentation to share ?

John - hate be be a "Betty Bummer" but that engine is earlier & not a '26 - '27 !

Perhaps I misspoke - looking at your carburetor thread, I see the "Made in Canada" on the head - does it have the wide clutch & brake pedals ?

I like your sign Frank !

That's a Neupert circulator Dan.

Dan McEachern manufactures a good oil slinger set !

I'm running 4 sets - tread pattern hard to beat !!!

He stated that he DID NOT replace the pins Adam.

Did you "face" off the bushing flanges for .008 - .012 clearance between the flange & edge of the gear ?

Fellow just posted what appears to be a nice original over on the Ford Barn.

Wow - that's a great find !!! Can't be too many of those hanging on a shelf.

I was to understand the M in a circle was for Moore Forging.

Kevin - look at all them Winfields mounted up in different directions !!!

Nice find ! That internal drive gear is quite rare to find !

That's NOT a photo of my kit Jeff - different sleeve puller !

A friend in Canada has that same brass tube bumper on his '13 Touring - check out the lever-action shocks !

Nice rig !!! Obenchain-Boyer Chemical ?

I believe I sent my Kingston parts to Corey Walker - I have what looks like a "low mileage" complete L-4 if you're interested - I did find the accessory brass filter though - drop me a p.m. & I'll send some photos.

I'll go take a look.

I might have both - I'll take a look when I head out to the shop - I'll be back !

What year bracket needed on it ? I believe I have one.

Were you intent on fabricating your own Rich ? Nice progress !

Classified ads here most always have worked for me looking for a particular part.

I believe Jack Putnam had a "run" of these reproduced a while back !

Here's what I have - these were produced by Bill Rader many years ago - my wife & I bought out the daughter & S.I.L.'s T parts business also many years ago - I have multiple sets available - includes modern inner, outer seals, caps & washers - $25 + the ride.

Bling-Bling is mostly for those guys that were crows in a previous life !

I'm pretty sure I have some "modern seal" small metal caps - I'll be back.

Ben's done several for me - hard to beat the quality !

I might have some also BUT Donnie's alot closer to you than I am I believe !

You need to verify what needle & seat is in your fuel feed circuit and then remove the inline filter.

No external brake material works good when wet - I always "ride the brake" to produce heat to assist in drying out the lining !

How many you need ?

I've not used a spring compressor scale to verify but the wound round Watts is/was considerably stronger than an original. The new springs are around 100 lbs. +. I've removed a couple Watts springs from transmissions that had the clutch throw-out collar stubs nearly worn through from so much spring ...

Use new starter/generator terminal fiber washers on the studs - be careful removing the smaller O.D. fiber washer as it's the one that "centers" the stud through the mounting plate & not readily available. I re-condition switches as per original and 1 washer goes onto the stud, then the small O.D. s...

IMO - the original switch is best to re-condition - silver colored is the recent Made in USA - I've used them for years with no issues - the brass/gold colored one is an import & not a good one at that !

Do you realize "Vintage Ford" is our Club magazine ? Bud runs an ad in the Vintage Ford for his brakes.

I have determined that the "earlier" accessory screens had larger holes & didn't hold back as much oil.

Yes Mike, it sure is ! Quite hard to come by in useable condition - I've found a couple made into wagons.

Mike - the 3 clutch adjustment bolts are really screws or should be and should be individual cotter pins - not safety wire

When I attempted that procedure on clincher rims, it took me hours to get the bag remnants out from between the tire & rim ! Now I do it this way.

No joke - I've had the same 12v Optima in my Racer since I built it near 30 years ago ! Always been on a maintainer.

Kevin Prus is the new gas tank manufacturer - can't help with the brass.

Mike - those were also marketed as "Grade-o-Meter" also for early automobiles.

Those brackets are on my '19 Centerdoor.

Model A ammeters are wired for + ground - the wires need to be reversed when hooking up for a T.

Your switch assembly appears to be a reproduction due to the lack of "Ford" script under the headlamp lever & no number stamped into the key cylinder - just FYI.

One problem with the full plate stand adapter is that it's near impossible to capture the center main bearing nut in the middle of the block to remove it or hold it to loosen.

Original Scandinavia linings are 23 & 1/2" in length. Herman K. (RIP) advocated segmented pieces of lining as the CANTEX Corp. shortened their product to 22 & 1/2" later in production prior to the "Tar Babies" being introduced. The bottom photo are CANTEX linings with the same, original weave patter...

To add to Dan's observation - 4 dips also tend to get the ball socket pushed in from front end mishaps !

Some generators seem to be less than cooperative in finding the "sweet-spot" for the null point - follow the procedure Ron Patterson recommends as printed above - engine at quite a bit more than a very fast idle with the 3rd brush already rotated towards the fender/away from the engine, slightly loo...

Anytime, my friend !

#6 appears to be an Atwater-Kent LA, Mark.

Ditto Trent - many thanks !

You do realize those sleeves only like to "spin out" one way - they need to collapse on themselves according to the direction of the V-slot - just in case it was fighting you.

Back up once again - nobody has any in their swap meet stuff ?

Superb job there, Don !

That's the "pin" type switch - not the "bend-over tab" type Jim - easy to clean & lube BUT Ben Martin told me NOT to lube the internals !

I have a foot warmer in good shape I'd part with - drop me a note.

Unless it's your spare, the bolt head doesn't show if it's attached to a wheel.

Yes, I did - switch headed your way today - will get you a tracking number.

It appears there was an accessory wiper, most likely vacuum (maybe electric if some wiring was present) mounted at the 2 outboard holes & which usually had a "manual" knob or lever to activate the wiper from the inside. As Allan eluded to the larger hole was where the wiper shaft went through due to...

Pretty sure it's camshaft & valve train related - I've run into the same scenario !

Hayes has it's own rim & wheel combo - Ford & Kelsey have different rim profiles but I believe can be interchanged - if I'm mistaken, you'll hear about it !

Sounds sorta like "backlash" from the timing gears.

Sent multiple emails & photos ????

Back to the Top - will purchase either type for reconditioning !

You're welcome !

Those brackets will not attach to a '26 - '27 open car.

Norman is quite correct in his description ! That would be the first place to verify - second would be verify the ground connection.

I enjoy doing it - nice to get "bench" work once in a while to give the old body a break from getting up & down off the concrete floor ! I'd surely be interested in an "exchange" program for any future services on these - be a quick turnaround !

That's how do it also Dave.

Switches sold out for the time being - looking to purchase more ! Thanks MTFCA !

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