MTFCA Forum

They are valve actuators for extra lift.

Are you looking for a brass hub or steel hub Larry ? What year is it going on ?

Not impossible - just awkward ! I have a '15 Runabout in the shop with accessory bumpers - not an easy task.

3960 is what Larry's in search of - I'll look after lunch !

That would be the small steel hub with riveted blades - I might also have some Larry.

I wondered what that "bar" was too, Larry - maybe a towel rack or hanky dryer ?

I have several different types from different makers - I'll attempt to post a photo later.

I like either, depends on the car, I guess.

Always fun to see other's projects !

Ditto Brother ! You look like you belong in a Model T, my friend !

Well - Merry Christmas to me !!! There really is a Santa Claus !!! Found one thanks to Richard & MTFCA !

BTT - anyone got one stashed ???

BTT - anyone ????????

My Grandpa purchased this truck new in Seattle - 12/23 engine number. The rim holder is riveted to the bed & has the same bead pattern - never seen another OR one on an AA.

Most likely an inspector or shift stamp.

It looks like this:

According to the Warford instructions, they show the forks in your 2nd photo - do you have a pair ?

Ron - perhaps you could post a few photos of your G & those of us that are familiar with that carburetor can offer assistance to your endeavor.

Re: Steve Jelf update from Weiser 12-15-23 Good show Joe !!!

Good show Joe !!!

I'm leaning towards #2 until I can find my Warford paperwork !

Hard to distinguish from that photo - Babitt will obviously be grey in color & depending on the rear axle lubricant cleanliness, the brass might be disguised by the color of the fluid !

Glad to have you back Buddy !!!

How's about we lose the "accident" thread & start an "I'm Back" thread ?????

To operate correctly, the coils need to set accurately set not just to amperage draw but also to time to fire, double sparking & a condenser test. You might consider having one of the several fellas (Ron Patterson or Brent Mize, off hand) that test & rebuild coils available to set them up proper - s...

A coil will only "buzz" if & when the flapper grounds out on a segment. Sounds as though you might have a timing issue & coil issues - who set up the coils ?

Anyone happen to have a n.i.b. flat tube they're not going to use from a canceled or sold project ??? "13 - '14 preferred.

Longshot here BUT, I'm seeking a pair of original Warford rear r.r. forks used when shortening original parts for the Warford.

And the number of leaves.

I have a print of the correct bend to keep it in place & some NOS wires - I'll get you a photo !

Ron - send it off to Corey Walker in Texas - he's done several for me and another for my friend - he understands how to set the float level correctly and test runs them on his T !

Nice shot of the bell hanger on the chassis in the foreground !!!

Holley G's can be quite temperamental especially the fuel level. I've not ever seen nor heard of a repop, straight through NH - Snyder's puts out a later, swayback style NH & I've used them - it's a decent carburetor.

Trent - is the handle/pin driver removable from the body ?

What size tire are you contemplating to order ?

Nice score Trent !!! First Stevens base I've seen.

I did not notice the "punch" end in the catalog illustration - I'll look mine over again but ?

Mine measures 0.310 in diameter - 4.50" in length - knurling is 1/2" wide & 2" from either end.

BTT - make a nice Christmas present !

The handle's in the top tray - I turned the Hassler arm into a peining jig for the gear pin.

Where is the "spark ring" ? OR how does one verify the single spark ?

I've been collecting Stevens tools for 30 + years - never have had the pleasure of finding the Stevens stand - I have a copy of the Allen holder. I have the puller & will measure my handle for you.

I thank you for the explanation, Jerry !

One needs the elbow for the cable to join up !

I'm still wondering what a "purple cow" has to do with a popcorn truck ??????????????????

They went AWOL when Fun Projects sold out !

Well, that's a mess ! Couple of pointers from casual observation - your rear shackles should be installed with the inside twist oiler on top and the rear on the bottom - opposite of they are now for ease of oiling (still have to get under the car to get the inside one !) & when installing the brake ...

Bob - those are for a '25 & earlier - '26 - '27 have a slight curve at the body mount point.

The body brackets with the square carriage bolt head are rear runabout only that I'm aware of - I've done 2 runabout bodies & that's what I used on the rear with the nuts outside of the fender iron & they not easy to find !

Looks like a notch on my computer !

How's about $300 ? I have no need for it & it's just taking up shelf space !

Yes , we became good friends and I ended up with their '19 Centerdoor, some KRW tools and alot of the remainder of NOS parts !

Mark be me to it - just saw this a.m.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/145476583767?h ... pvCtTs3rMP

The closed spool d.s. has a short lip for the spool to nestle - it's not much - maybe a 1/4" or less - next time I go out in my container, I'll measure it.

I can't take the credit for it's construction - my good friend (now deceased) master machinist Otis Clinton made it many years ago !

Didn't we talk about this a while back & you told me you had located one ?

Allan - I've both 23" & 21" with the straight side - I'll have to media blast one to see if they're stamped "Hayes".

That appears to be an original Ford timer - runway's a bit rough which will cause roller bounce at higher rpm. I true timers up with this fixture for my lathe. I have a few NOS rollers if you need one. The centering tool that is made reference to here can be had in 2 styles - don't waste your $'s on...

Spoken for - thanks MTFCA !

Greatly appreciated & you are most welcome !

Anyone happen to have a nice set of TT supports ? Drop me a note through here if you do, please.

I heard Rick closed up shop ???????????????

Wow - looking good there, Steve buddy !!!

The yellow tape is for "natural gas" - not liquid as I understand it !

Not the same - '26 - '27 irons have a distinct curve at the body pivot point - '25 & earlier is straight at that point.

Norm - one should not use Teflon tape with gasoline.

You might check in with Corey Walker in Texas - he posts on here & check the classifieds for his contact.

Most of us park our T's with the parking brake off for any length of time so as to squeeze the oil out of the clutch plates - makes starting the car a bit easier when cold out especially by hand !

Joshua - was the car parked with the hand brake pulled back ? That surely could congeal the clutch plates together.

Did you have the hand brake pulled back ? Straight up should be what neutral there is as it's a wet clutch so not the same as a friction clutch. Did you remove the band access door or the transmission cover itself ????? I'm up north near Tacoma/Gig Harbor - retired but can assist if need be AFTER I ...

FYI - if you have a brass car, the upper hose is shorter than the black model so one needs to cut it to length - the kit's upper hose will be too long !

Frank - do those boxes have a white label with CANTEX printed on them ? If so, could you measure the length of the linings & post the results ?

Thanks for letting me know Scott !

Yes John, it is rather pricey but makes a hell of a repair ! I purchased the "small" kit a number of years ago & keep it sealed & in my heated office.

I've had good success with Belzona 2 part epoxy - was told it was approved by Caterpillar for block repair by my long-time diesel mechanic friend - rather pricey but I did one rather large water jacket repair in the rear of a '26-'27 block over 10 years ago and it's still holding.

Livestock, bar stock, or ????????????

Any interest in a mint Sterling h.c. siren w/brake ? I'd take $850 + the ride. Drop me a note through the Forum, please.

Here's a real nice Standard brass horn - I'd take $400 including postage in the U.S. Drop me a note through the forum, please.

I do a similar procedure with my KRW tool - set the magnets on the flywheel, install the field coil & check the distance with the KRW tool, record the gaps then remove the tool & drop the flywheel onto the crank, bolt it down then with brass feeler gauges verify the gaps again and shim accordingly.

I had a machinist buddy make this shaft fixture for my Stevens rod alignment rig - works great for setting the magnet height.

Put my name on that , please ED !

Give 'em a good whack with a hammer - I do that quite often on a stuck bolt.

Brass or Nickel, Mark ?

The photo of the tool I posted is not a bottoming tap - it's made exclusively for cleaning threads - not re-tapping ! Available at an engine machine tooling company.

I'll look Dan but I think there is instructions in the later Ford Service Bulletins.

You need to use this tool to properly clean out the block threads !

I believe 50 lbs. is a bit too much - I'm in the 40-45 lb. camp & I always re-torque after a considerable cool-down !

The Stevens starter & generator repair set has an indexer for the brush end of both pieces then the new bushing is reamed. The long reaming tool centered in the top tray has the align reamer for the snout - photo above for that. Addendum: the circular tool removes & reams the starter brush end - too...

Not '26-'27 Melba - earlier small drum accessory shoes.

I believe this might be a Ford part - I'd have to scout out the later price list of parts. I also have a NOS in the box "Easy2Kleen" accessory magneto contact similar to the one in the photos - I didn't get it out of the showcase ! This type of contact was way easier to remove & clean !

Here's a few photos of the side mount on my Gramps' TT - he purchased the truck new in 1924. One can see it was made for the express box with the beading & riveted on. Never seen another or one in any Ford parts booklets. It's a 23" split rim.

Consider it yours ! Thanks MTFCA !

I believe the negative post should be on the right as you're looking down on the battery - the positive cable comes from the left.

I installed a Chaffin's "modified" reground camshaft in my BB RAJO near 30 years ago now - it performs quite well !

There was an adapter available back in the day to use the threaded mag. plug onto an earlier trans. cover - I'll get a photo later.

This is a new, brass adapter to make your stock wheel into a "Fatman" - $250.00 includes postage in the U.S. Drop me a note through the Forum, please.

Larry's pipes were mandrel bent to the proper shape BUT they were made to use and original Ford muffler that used the internal steel nut in the pipe & the pipe was utilized as the small baffle.

Lang's is reported to have the correct pipe shape - there have been incorrect pipes out for years !

I run 45 - 50 lbs. - TT's ride so rough anyway !

I have one on my Gramps' TT - I'll get a photo later - never seen another !

I believe this to be an original pedal clamp for R.M. brakes - I have another one that is cast steel.

Did Ernie R. do that spectacular leather ?

BTT - open to offers - I got too much stuff !

Tools spoken for - thanks MTFCA !

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