MTFCA Forum

I fired the 22 up over lunch today and it ran fine once the advance was reattached. I don’t think any damage was done.

Thanks for the info. I just bought a '10, and I wondered if this engine was one with the upper center main without Babbit.

What a treat to see this relic ! Thank you Kim.

Do New Zealanders go in for personalized tags? From an article I read, the state of Virginia is top on the list for people who opt for them.

Yes, there seem to be quite a few vehicles so adorned. I don't get it really, here it costs quite a lot of money to have a personal plate (can be in the $1000's), and I'm not sure I'd want to be so easily...

I have discussed this with my machinist guy.
We plan to make a batch of these but it won’t be until after the national tour in June.
They would be sculpted to look like an original meter.
The material would be aluminum.

It's simply a vehicle with no title...I don't think anyone would change a title to a new VIN under any circumstances.

There may well be a title on file for this car on file...a simple search of the DMV and a request for duplicate title may well solve things.

I lost the title to my '13 in my move to WY. I combined a trip back to FL with a trip...

Not all rads were even made by Ford.
True for early years. By the end of 1912 all were made by Ford.

My timer board. All different except the 3 2 piece timers at the top.

Ohhhh for want of Tony Wiltshire and his magnificent TW timer! RIP Tony.

All associated firewall bolts are brass plated steel. There are eight bolts that still have the original brass plating. The side light brackets, and the four steering column bolts. The others I had to get replated.

Kim, Thanks. Bruce agrees with you. We’ll probably try that at some point. I’m putting a video up on anew link with the motor running on a trailer in near dark to see the explosions. It may be that we are firing a fairly even mixture, but the cam lift and timing may just not be capable of a smooth low engine speed without Ali ding rough.

If you are ever contacted by someone you don't know - email, phone or letter - for something you didn't have request - its a 99.99999999999% scam.
However the Forum is an open book and its easy for someone to create an account and then contact you. So it always good to see when he became a member. This can be looked up
Even surveys can scam you by...

The irregular hole is most likely due to wear. I'd check the crossmember dimensions very carefully. It's almost always best not to remove metal from the frame.

Some oil will remain in the rod troughs and soaked into the bands and some will stay in tight places throughout the engine.

I'd follow Ford's advice and NEVER run the engine unless the oil level was up to the lower cock.

Multi-grade oil is great for Model Ts.

The sleeve is now installed. But first, this shows clearly what the problem is:
rsz_dsc08873.jpg

The sleeve (SKF 99106) is driven on with the supplied piece of tubing, but due to the length an additional piece of pipe was required as a drift:

rsz_dsc08875.jpg

The flange of the sleeve bottoms out on the Hyatt - that's as far as it can go....

Number 8 looks like a 26=27 coupe. It has plated radiator shell and has bumpers however still has wood spoke wheels. To me that is odd that a car with the deluxe features would still have wood wheels.
According to the type roof on that house and the surrounding plants, it looks to be in California.
Norm

Hi George,
Search Zep on this forum & Use of Vinegar to Clean Radiators. there will be old posts on the subject. If you use vinegar be sure to get industrial
grade vinegar the stuff in the grocery store is very much more dilluted.
Craig.

I got into this because I found an A cam with a full race grind at a swap meet. I was building a T engine with an A crank (drilled and counterweighted). I installed the front of a T cam onto the A cam. Slotted the back to drive a VW oil pump. I built my own Vega distributor drive using a pair of helical gears. Ultimately I opened up the intake...

Appreciate the positive comments. Thank you Bob.

A few yers ago I was lucky enough to purchase the Vee radiator with #7 painted on the core. I run it on my 1914 roadster. It takes just shy of 4 gallons of water. No wonder he could do so well on those cross country jaunts.

just sayin'

frontyboy

Yes, it is an ac Delco horn back, probably off an old 31-48 Harley. Go try to find the rest of it…. IMG_0700.jpeg

The Cyrillic characters stand for FOTOARCHIV from a Russian web site Private archive of military-historical photography' project turns 10 years old. On March 6, 2010 so may not have been updated
The photos are organized into 4 categories: Russian Empire; USSR; Germany; and Other Countries. Most categories have sections divided into sections for...

Thanks Jeff, that looks exactly like what I’ve got. I knew somebody here would recognize it.

I believe, Kevin, that you are right! Another in the myriad of details of advancing automobile technologies of over a hundred years ago!

I call BS on the vanadium steel block :roll:

Who sells Hartford tubes? Lucas isn't far from me, but he doesn't offer them.

Langs did sell them not long ago. I assume they still do.

Multiple uses! :lol:

Guys, I really appreciate the suggestions and pointers!

You problem is, Model T's don't have a high beam!

Correct & doesn't have a low beam either - Just one beam being bright or dim
The lens on Model T headlights is what directs the reflected light within the headlight forward. A dual filament bulb has both filaments in the same relative focal point so changing fro Dim to Bright just projects more...

I'm glad to you are using the original set up rather than the incorrect rods. The cable available today is better than anything back than. I got my 3/16 cable from McMaster Carr for my Rocky Mountains. I'm not sure if that is the correct diameter for AC's.

You mean dad. The current George is the son.
Of course. Gee, I must be older than George Sr. was 20 years ago! :D

I got my '22 Centerdoor going about five years ago after it had been sitting since 1960. Fortunately, it was stored indoors and the gas had been drained from the tank. It had an intake valve stuck open that was easily freed up with a little ATF and acetone and I swapped out a rebuilt carburetor for the one on the car. I gapped the plugs and...

gatorade bottle.jpg
You could always do like Dean and install a Gatorade bottle.

It all depends on what powder was used. There are all kinds. Your refrigerator has panels that are coated then they are formed. Years ago there was a 1930 Model A at the coating expo had fenders, hood , splash aprons all made with pre coated metal. Yes, coated than stamped.
We even had a job once coating wooden toilet seats.
I would ask the...

There is lots of info on the older forum posts. Here’s one that’s got some good information about setting magnet height and a way to do it.

Thanks, I will look at that for the top.

To be clear, the car ran last year but had a long punch list of things that had to be addressed to be a safe driver. It’s not a show car by any means and there are some other things to address, but it’s not trying to kill me anymore.

Yep, I missed this year,but it is well worth the trip for parts for our Old cars. good people,both the folks that put on the shindig and the vendors.

Service Bulletins

Jim

go to eBay; click on the picture you want, to bring it into it's own page, then save as to your folder. No picture can resist your intentions that way :lol:

Thanks Scott

A round drill bit won’t work. You must measure from the flange and a bit will not seat on the narrow, recessed flange. The best way is to make a rigid paper measure that will seat on the narrow flange surface. If you don’t measure from the flange, your measurement will be about 1/32” too wide, meaning the float will not close the valve, stopping...

Your tie rod should not be springy. It's probably bent, or has been bent, or is rusty, inside or out, or has been in a fire. I'd look for another one, rather than tempt fate.

A bent or otherwise weakened tie rod may give way if you hit a pot hole.

A straight tie rod is very strong in compression. A bent one is much weaker.

A bent tie rod...

I realise that aluminium is softer but there are some with high temper and the surface finish is certainly harder after anodising, in fact it's positively slippery compared to mill finish aluminium.

There are lots of modern 3 piece racing wheels that use aluminium rims, obviously because they're light weight. I've never put a calliper on them to...

IMG_6826.jpeg

Search this site for rim wind Phinney Walker clock. I recall seeing a good thread on this type of auto clock about a year ago. Jim Patrick
Here it is:
www.mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=18211

You have a nice car and it should run well with that Rajo. I once owned a speedster with a similar type Rajo and it would do 80 MPH.
In your picture it looks like the SR carb is a little close to the generator terminal, I would add some insulation between the two locations. You asked for ideas on other wheel and chassis colors in place of the...

This is the way I put together the wiring on a MAG Charged '13

It has an E-Timer, Running 6Volt

13 fuse block.JPG

Cap

yes, he did, but his solution now relies on the brake shoe return springs (alone) to not only collapse the shoes but additionally now must drive the actuator cam to zero since the brake rods will no longer do it. Any bind or friction along the rod will likely overwhelm those wimpy springs and keep the shoes constantly dragging. If he had simply...

I am a member of the Midwest Chapter. May 21 we are visiting the Fox River Trolley Museum. You are welcome to drive modern, and meet the members. We have a monthly meeting in Westmont. We also have members in Naperville. You are welcome to contact me: six three zero two44 two285.

Just what I needed....many many thanks to Frank and John :D :D

I like to note the things that aren't correct and those I don't prefer when I look at a car too. It is good to have some knowledge of what is right. I know some of my cars couldn't stand the scrutiny given here if I showed all the detail this one has in selling it. Some of mine are better for knowing more. I like Steve's comment That don't hurt...

They made a change in 1915 that I like, and doesn't appear above I think. The 1915 still has the short spout like a 1913, but allows us to use a modern camshaft seal. The longer spout came about 1917, which allows the owner to pour in oil at a faster rate.

Chris,

Enjoy your trip! I’ll set a reminder for myself to contact you later in the month.

Good day everyone,
I believe my AC brakes are the reproductions. I used Cudamans eight steps. I did adjust the brake rod length to get the lower half of the brake shoe right then used the adjustment nut to get the upper part of the brake shoe right. Drove the car yesterday and the brakes worked fine.

Sorry to here, prayers for the family

Always a load of opinions here, so a load of options. Might as well submit mine. Been running 90 (maybe 90 only for the first few years) or 140 for at least 40 years and 600 for the last 27 or so years. Lots of miles, no Ruckstell problems.

Ed aka #4

I had the running boards on both our T's powder coated gloss black, which provides a very durable and scratch resistant surface on something that gets stepped on every time we get in and out of a Model T. That being said, I do also have a brass step on the passenger side running board of our 15 runabout. It goes well with the unpainted, varnished...

Great pix thanks for sharing .

I run these rear tires on my 1924 Model TT Truck. They have been doing well for four years and 200 miles. They still look brand new. I like the tread and side wall design better than the Firestone one and they are cheaper in price.

Lucas 600-20 CU - Vectored & Flipped.png

600-20 LUCAS Blackwall

Unavailable for the last few...

I took this photo on my morning commute. Note the -32 temp.

PXL_20210216_114914386.jpg

A fellow who does horse drawn vehicles and Model Ts might get the most out of it. The body and top seem to be matched nicely for a buggy. The rest could be made into a Speedster, Depot Hack or add a proper original body.

Thanks all,

Oval it needs to be!

Look at the factory photo closely, and note the choke wire is offset at the bottom.

I had bought the white rotor from Walter some time ago, as i saw the need for it in the spare True-Fire our friend has.
I, as well, am 80, and feel somewhat as you.
Thanks everyone, the village has proved it's worth, yet again!
Ross.

I met Harmon on my first Ohio Jamboree back in 2001, he passed me on a hill going up, I had to talk to this ole boy to find out how a TT truck could do that, then on a flat road run 45! There was so many transmissions and gear levers in there it puzzled me what gear you where in. I always enjoyed talking to Harmon through the years, was always...

I’m replacing the rods on the ‘25 I bought because someone ran it with nuts loose and not only wore off threads but wore away half the metal. The rods I purchased online have good threads but of course they are easy to observe the seam opening.

My #11077 fit nicely and the wood screws do a good job of holding it down. Time to pack some bearings and get the front wheels back on.

What I find interesting is 4 LHD carbide headlamp tourings with no carbide generator or acetylene tank. This is from left side views. Great pics Tom !! Thanks !

Three of the brass cars that would have originally had gas headlamps clearly show the headlamps have been electrified. The gas headlamps originally had the mirrors way in the back of...

Yes, it is

Free Neutral.jpg Free Neutral.jpg Do you get a free neutral with the pedal about half way down? If not, you have a problem with the clutch fingers inside the transmission or the length of the rod between the bottom of the pedal and the clutch lever at the side of the transmission. Possibly dragging bands.
If it is free with the pedal half way...

Chris B ..... We'll send our coffee bill to ya !

The last six month of 1927 may have been both exciting and chaotic for the Automobile Industry.

Ford was ending production of the Model T, dealers were low on stock, some automobile companies were purchasing older Automobiles for scrap. Used cars were out selling new cars.

And according to Automobile Industries (Philadelphia, Pa. - September to...

I'd like to second the suggestion of installing one of Scott Conger's full flow float valves (assuming it's a NH). It will improve fuel flow and should end your leaking woes. It certainly made a difference in my touring.

I found the same maker's stamp on my 1919 frame. Also found it on the hand lever pawl.

Don, that is really a neat thing to find. You must have hit the mother lode in that barn!

Industrial Sprockets & Gears,
13605 Rosecrans Ave.
Santa Fe Springs Calif 90670
They have made ring & pinions for 1910 Pope Hartford
1910 Buick, 1915 Olds , etc.

just for the heck of it...

I may have this wrong? Running retarded is what gets the heat going most and a quick cherry red manifold...running too advanced just makes it balk and sputter, not overheat?

New approach, How lean is lean? Are you trying the old 1/2 turn from closed wives tale on the fuel mixture knob? Not a good idea for many.

With...

Keith,
The 26-27 TT has most of the pre 1926 TT features, same cab, same fenders, same hood and radiator shell, etc. The few 26-27 features that are noticeable without having to look too hard are the oval ignition switch, longer boot scraper running boards, and the 26-27 improved T engine. The firewall has holes for a coil box because the 26-27 TT...

My opinion and calculations show that the torque should be 40 ft lb based on wood crush strength, nut friction, clamp area, and size of bolt. The threads and nut face must be clean and dry. No lubricant
Other wise, follow previous tightening procedures

Art Mirtes

Chrome plating is a similar process to painting.
Starting with the base metal ( brass steel or other suitable metals) it should be as smooth and shiny as possible. The better you finish it the easier and quicker it is to obtain a great finish.
The copper is the primer/filler, it is used to gain adhesion, its soft and easy work smoother especially...

Fuel Tank and Radiator Supplies in Queensland are the suppliers of the one piece copper g;and ring/manifold gaskets to the vendors.These are the heavy duty thick ones which can be used over and over. Buy to or three sets to save on postage.

Allan from down under.

Ok thanks. It’s a lamp for smaller companies that didn’t get their names stamped in the chimneys or aftermarket then I suppose. I went to that same swap meet this weekend and didn’t see that lamp. It’s been there several times so maybe he sold it or didn’t come. I saw 2 Model T parts this time, a 21” wooden wheel and a 1926 headlight. It’s a craps...

Buckeye Jack made jacks with numerous different marque names on them! And for many years. Many years ago, when I had a nice 1925 Studebaker, I had a Studebaker Buckeye jack!
I have seen at least a dozen Cadillac jacks (don't know why so many of those?), Nash, Hudson, and several others at swap meets over the years.

Darren ... Bragging on your results only comes from personal experience. BRAVO 👌 !!! .... I've been rebuilding coils for at least 15 years using a hand cranked coil tester. Early on I had good results using that tester only to be notified by some that their engines were not firing correctly. Turned out that whoever was manufacturing the coil...

Of course there were a lot of Model T's! Over 50% of the automobiles on the road back in the day were Fords.

Most are missing the horn button because they were made of Bakelite or something similar & over the years broken & removed. Best John