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Looking for help with a Ball&Ball carb
Posted: Fri Jun 07, 2024 10:57 pm
by TFan
A friend is trying to rebuild a B&B carb the only numbers we can find are SU12A and 54824 the float has a hole through it and is leaking. It is 1-3/4'' high X 1.783 dia. with a 1/4'' inside dia. tube down the center which is where the leak is. We would like to find a replacement if possible. I suggested that we gently cut out the old tube and solder in a new one does this seem feasible. Sorry no pics. Almost forgot it is from a 06 Studebaker that why it's off topic. Thanks in advance Jim
Re: Looking for help with a Ball&Ball carb
Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2024 7:28 pm
by Kevin Pharis
Repairing your float is absolutely possible. Care must be taken to maintain very similar weight so watch your material wall thickness. Soldering with a torch works well if putting a new float together… but you will find a large soldering iron or copper will work best for touch up work.
May also look into Nitrophyl float material. It’s a closed cell foam that can be used to replace brass floats with near 1:1 displacement. Typically found in relatively thin sheets, but I did notice recently that Restoration Supply has it in a larger diameter cylinder shape. Could turn out to be a quick lathe project…
Re: Looking for help with a Ball&Ball carb
Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2024 10:32 pm
by TFan
Thanks Kevin, I suggested some of the Nitrophyl or even cork which I have both on hand but he wants to keep it original. So he said today he was able to find the leak and he thinks he can give it a light solder and be home free. He is very experienced at modern carbs and most if not all the local folks and racers go to him for their 50's & 60's stuff. Jim
Re: Looking for help with a Ball&Ball carb
Posted: Sat Jun 08, 2024 11:26 pm
by Kevin Pharis
The trickiest part about the soldering is the final close up. I use a fine point scribe to stab a tiny vent hole (.005”-.010”) in my new Winfield floats, your original should have a similar hole somewhere. Once all the heavy work is done, this vent hole is closed off with a dab of solder using an iron. I have found that filling this vent hole takes some practice. If the float is not just the right temp, globs of solder can fall into the float, vacuum can such the solder in, pressure can blow the solder out, etc…
Setting the float on a steel bench will draw the heat out too fast. I suggest using a piece of tubing as a support stand to minimize the amount of heat loss thru surface contact